Landowner
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Posts posted by Landowner
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17 minutes ago, timc1967 said:
Is that rubber in there like an engine mount or all metal?
All metal
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Any one know where these go please
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14 hours ago, ottomatic said:
I have a Disco 300tdi engine and am dropping it into a Ninety. It did not come with a viscous fan. I have been offered a used one supposedly off a 300tdi.
The thing is that the threaded stud on the engine idler is around 28mm OD while the nut on the fan coupling is around 32mm internally. Leaves it more than acceptably loose....,
Are there different sizes of couplings?
My 200tdi has not had a fan on for four years and I tow with it, it's never overheated and always stays in normal range on the gauge, warms up quicker in winter as well.
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If it helps I put disco 1 springs under my 90 and the ride height is slightly higher at the back but front the same as 90 springs.
I would say that defender springs would be too soft..
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Tdci chassis is all you can get new from LR, actually made by GKN for them & Marsland. Richards Chassis would make you a custom order but only if the engine/gearbox mounts didn't interfere with each other when it came to fitting whichever engine you decide to use.
Richards wouldn't do me a custom chassis because of the fear that I might be ringing a vehicle, I only wanted a series type rear crossmember with the hole in it.
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Leak off pipes return unused fuel to the tank so yes they should have fuel in them. Starting probs may be not following cold start proceedure. I used to just lean in cab and preheat then she fired first turn, if I sat in seat I was tempted to touch throttle and then she took longer to start.
Sound like you could have a leak or split in fuel return pipe
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Still looking for bits. I haven't been able to find a ducting connector in galvanize locally. Same with good looking power cable. Was able to get trailer core to use for the control panel.
The wiring is pretty well detailed in the manual. This one here, p34
I use the 801 controller, mainly because it has diagnostics if it would ever be needed.
I'll take some piccies when I wire it up anyway but let me know if you have any questions. I think the only thing the docs really stress is to make sure the unit is fused as otherwise you fry the electrics if you accidentally reverse the polarity. 20A for the Eberspacher 5A for the controller.
Thanks for that
Wiring seems straight forward enough, I read that fuel line and pump has to be just so as well, having mine on a raised piece of ally with old metal fuel can supplying the diesel, exhaust underneath facing one way and burner inlet facing the other, have to extend the exhaust depending on where I use it. Limited to 2 metres exhaust length I think.
Probably end up fitting it in cubby box later on after I've finished using it in the caravan, need two really, if only I had the money
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Hows the project going ?
Same heater as mine, I need some wiring advice when you connect it up if you don't mind
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I'm still busy trying to find a suitable metal box for this build. Not just a box to fit the heater but something I can get a matching fuel tank for.
My initial plan was to have the exhaust silencer inside the box for that nice and compact 'feel' but I don't think that's possible (or a good idea) I'm afraid I will overheat the eberspacher if I keep those bits in the box as well.
This is definately happening, just a bit slowly
Was going to mount mine on a board and have the thermostat/timer thing on a long lead so it could be put in the cab or the caravan
Is the thermostat sensor thingy in the timer control or is it separate?
Not taken mine out of the box yet
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I didn't have that fitting on my manifold so I put a take off in the core plug -
I'm interested in this as I want to do the same, I've got a heater and control unit etc and need it for the 90 and the caravan and the office as well when it gets really cold. thought it might take the chill off the workshop as well so need to move it around
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Painted all mine
Bulkhead and inner wings will be black
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have a look at this list too http://www.red90.ca/rovers/springinfo.html
rear end of a 90 is lighter so they may not be a good choice, 110 rear springs won't fit as they are a much larger diameter.
As Above, Disco is half a ton heavier than a 90 so it would be like driving with a heavy load in it all the time
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Sometimes, depending on locality, replacement brake shoes are not so easy to source where and when you need them. I have recovered oil soaked brake linings with an initial wash down with Brake Clean, followed by a bit of heat from a gas torch to sweat out the remaining oil, followed by a second wash in brake clean.
Like I said, just boil them and the fluid comes out
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Very interesting input, keep it coming
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People do do it, hence why your photo shows how someone has put a pipe fitting in the back of the manifold there.
I put that in mine as a take off for the boost gauge, its a windscreen washer nozzel
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the pump will sense actual inlet manifold pressure rather than turbo pressure. this should in theory give it a bit more oomph and responsiveness but also a little more black smoke (which is obviously awesome anyway)
if you plumb the wastegate into there too the turbo will become slightly more responsive and will boost slightly harder too.this is all due to the pressure drop between the turbo and the inlet manifold
Sounds good to me, why dont people do it then, haven't seen it before. makes sense to monitor pressure at manifold rather than at turbo?
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What will happen if I put the little pipe off the turbo (goes to pump) here instead of from turbo?
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Best way to remove oil and or brake fluid from brakes/clutches is to boil them in water, this removes the contamination from the friction material.
Just be sure and do it when she's out and clean the pan afterwards
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MTF94 is quite pricey. Originally Land Rover said ATF for R380s then changed to MTF94 as it apparently helped with smoother gear changes
Thats out then, pension wont run to expansive
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Hi all,
After more than six months of digging, I have finally reached entry's level at the back corner in the old hen/duck area at in law's farm.
I will like to build a pit, but need help on deciding what to do.
The building is at a sideslope. Height is now 2.7m, ok for the landy and acceptable for the caravan, but not enough for a big motorhome I will like to buy in the future.
The 5 metre wide path in front of entry door is inclined. I could lower all the area, along with the path, about 70cm for creating a flat area in front of the garage entry and then the height will be 3.4 meters, good for a motorhome.
The problem is that below the soil there is a black water tank, and I cannot dig for more than 1.6 metres from the level it has now. This will leave just 90 cm for the pit. Is this enough or it will be better having less height in the garage and more in the pit? I'm nearly 6' tall if that helps.
The pit I dug in my garage at home is just short of 3 feet deep and I sit on a beer crate to work on cars.
It could do with being a little deeper for cars but I would be working stooped if I could get the landy in, its a bit in between really
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Side note, MTF94 is a better oil for the R380, the LT77 takes ATF
Haynes says ATF that's why I put it in, is MTF94 expensive as in more than 16 quid a gallon (5 litres) ?
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Inter cooler is an add on to increase power, not installed to cool engine parts
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Just put all the long ones in first. They will only fit in certain holes and you can't fit them into a place where a short one should be (or at least you couldn't on mine). Then you can use a screwdriver to gauge where the middle and short bolts should go.
Did just that,..... thanks
Mixed a couple of the short ones up but got there in the end.
All done and fresh oil in now, filter on tomorrow.
Fresh ATF in the R380 and gear oil 80/90 in the transfer box, almost ready for start up
Unknown brackets
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
If something like a bike rack slotted in then what would the two bolts be for ?