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Mark Adams

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  1. Hi, Have you done the basic checks of testing the cylinder compression, checking that you have spark ignition on all cylinders and that you have fuel pressure? This may narrow it down a little. Mark.
  2. I have been away so have not managed to do any work on the freelander, got back any started to get it back together, I have not replaced the head and cams but when reattaching the belts I had the marks perfectly in-line and then found that the belt will not go on unless the exhaust sprocket is about 1mm higher than the inlet mark. I cant adjust it as then the belt will not line up with the teeth. It is only a fraction out but I am not happy with it, does not any know what is causing this? Mark.
  3. Hi CJ1, Out of interest where are you based in East Sussex? I am originally from Brighton but have family/friends all over Sussex. I would have loved to have helped you out with the welding on the Disco but since moving to Wales I am a bit far away now. I would certainly say the Disco is one on the easier cars I have welded up and also the most enjoyable to see the end result. Good luck with it. Mark.
  4. Hi, Before I reassemble the head to complete the Gasket replacement, I was just wondering if anyone knows if it is possible to test the tappets as I do not want to put duff tappets back in. Also can these tappets be cleaned/serviced like some others I have worked on? Thank you
  5. Hi, Can anyone recommend a good make for an MLS head gasket kit, I would ideally like the price to be as cheap as possible (who doesn't) but do not want one that lasts 10 minutes. Mark.
  6. As far as I am told the car has never overheated, it certainly was not overheating at point of failure. Mark.
  7. Well after waiting a while for my friend to find the money I decided I need it out of the way so I have paid for the work myself, I have just had it pressure tested (hot and cold) and had it skimmed. The pressure testing showed no leaks so the head was not the problem. They are also going to re-seat the valves as they were leaking and even after lapping some of them still leaked. Mark
  8. I just found the link to show you what the current gasket looks like, I don't know where this particular one was purchased from. Mark.
  9. The existing gasket is not the standard factory fitted one, it is a solid metal gasket with orange silicon around all the holes, see picture in this link: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-MGF-FREELANDER-16V-K-HEAD-GASKET-SET-BOLTS-/110126814073?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19a411d379 I have not seen the MLS gasket so not sure if it is any thicker. Yes, I was going to use the MLS gasket. Mark.
  10. The trouble with these measurements is that I have no idea what was removed on any previous re-facing operations, I also have nothing that is capable of measuring the thickness of the whole head to that accuracy. Mark.
  11. Hi Davey, I have not managed to get the head tested yet, the company is a little drive away so I am hoping to tie it in with something else. The HG has been changed before and from a little investigation I found that the current HG is the type recommended for the Lotus Elise and not the Freelander. I know that they use the same K series engine but I have no experience with these gaskets (are they any good)? I was going to change it for the new style Multi-layer gasket but are these Lotus type better or worse? On your description of why it is jumping a cylinder when it leaks, you mention that it is due to compression in the next cylinder, my only comment about this is that all the spark plugs were removed so there would not be any compression on any other cylinders. As this was found on a leak down test, the pistons were not moving so no compression is being formed. Have I misunderstood your comment? Unfortunately I am not able to get another head without buying one and even then I would need to get it tested and skimmed so it would not be of much benefit? I do not like doing jobs on the cheap as it never works out. I think I am going to get it skimmed and tested and sort out the cost later. My next concern is regarding the valve stand down, if it is skimmed then I may also need to get the valve seats reground (quite a large expense). Does anyone know what the stand down is on these heads? I am only concerned about this as I guess it was skimmed the last time the HG was replaced. Mark.
  12. Both head and block are straight as a die. Bores are smooth as a baby bum. All pistons look good with no holes. No signs of burning between cylinders on either block or head, gasket looks in good condition with no signs of leakage. Tested the valves with some petrol and most are leaking slightly (so will need lapping), this does not go with the leakage between cylinders though, Not removed valves yet, so not sure about guides. The chap that owns the car is not keen of spending much on the repair as he will sell it when back on the road, As he is a friend I am doing the labour for free so just need to keep external costs and part costs low, but still giving a quality repair (if possible). Thank you for the suggestions. Mark.
  13. Jonners, You must have read my mind, I have just finished removing the head, the old gasket is a single metal plate with what looks like orange silicon in critical places (this may not be a good description). It does not have the MLS gasket fitted but does have locating metal dowels. I can't see any problems with the gasket, I am going to check with the owner if he wants to pay for the head to be skimmed and pressure tested. Even though the head has not be over heated (in his knowledge) I still think that getting it skimmed would be a good idea?? Difficult to know where to go next as I do not just want to put it back together without knowing what the problem was if it pressure tests OK. Mark.
  14. Sorry clicked the wrong button and can't delete post.
  15. Slight change to my previous post, the cylinders leaks are as follows. 1 leaks to 2 2 leaks to 4 3 leaks to 1 4 leaks to 3 All leak to inlet manifold if cylinder blocked off.
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