FLR100
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Posts posted by FLR100
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oi Mr cater!! remember I add up the scores, you might suddenly be doing a lot worse
Anyway lets see if you can figure out where you parked your truck this time!!! 
As a member of mud monster's i was sticking up for us!! as "pussy's" does not reflect the hardcore lot that mud-monsters members are
p.s i was hopping the loosing of the truck incident was our secret 
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There was supposed to be a interclub challenge but they chickend out at the last minute because they new they did'nt stand a chance against us
but you don't need me to tell you that just look how well our leader is doing in the last couple of rounds of your series -
Yep she done a fantastic job but i sometimes wonder if it was wrong of me to of sniffed the seat after she had been sitting in it?
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Can someone assure me that competitor parking is separate from spectator parking? I don't really fancy leaving a trailer loaded with spares lying around.
Looking forward to it. The truck is nearly fixed from March Madness, just a bit of tinkering to do but I've just spotted the front diff pan is a bit mashed! Will check it's not rubbing the crownwheel tomorrow.
Can I have no 13 if it's not taken, it will match the rest of my event stickers!
If your lucky you might get a blow up doll and sheep to guard your gear
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Cheers, got quite a bit to do so could do without the expense of helmets if i can avoid it
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Just been looking to see what i would have to do to the truck to meet reulation compliance for this event and was wondering if i was to buy msa approved fire retardent balaclavas to use with my old blue label helmets would that be acceptable on the helmet rule??
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Send Saley a PM he's been having 300Tdi's reconned AND modified, a beer you owe me pal.
P.S. a certain other supplier use to state 12.5 litres/min which always was b***s**t, and apparantly drilling out the outlet doesn't do much at all, according to the flow rigs, but I'll not argue that one.
Good luck
Worked a treat for me and i am running a zf74 and was getting all the exact same issues, a couple of friends have done it running standard systems with 35" tyres and again good results, costs nothing to do and 5 minutes in time so allways worth a try??
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Partly true but not allways the case, there is not alot a winchman can do about bunching on the drum nor can he stop the rope from burrying it's self in the drum,
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the few comps I have seen recentally it is free spool that has won the day.
a well set up single motor 8274 will do better with a freespool than a double top housing with no free spool
Half the time i use freespool i have found the rope to be jammed on the drum too tight to pull off by hand so for me makes it a very expensive upgrade that only seems to work to it's full potential probally 4 times out of 10
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If you Drill out the hole in the pressure pipe outlet on the pump (after removing the pipe the connector will un-screw from the pump) by about 1mm then this makes the world of difference, Your flow will increase without a great loss of pressure and it should cure your problem without buying a new pump, Changing your resevoir for a larger one will also help in keeping your fluid a bit cooler, i Have found the plastic type landrover radiator expansion tanks work well as the pipe outlet's are just about the right size
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How do people cut tyres if I was to do this... hot wire i guess, but what tool do ppl find work (if anyone has done it)
Pete
You cut them with a tool called a tyre regroover it works on the same priciple as a piece of heated up wire but with propper blades that heat up when pressure is applied, it is a very borring job to do trust me!
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A while ago I read somewhere that Boggers were cheaper in one of our neighbouring countries i.e France or Belgium or somewhere similar......
Can anybody else recall or point me in the right direction please...times are hard
Chris:)
I would guess it has something to do with the euro/pound so probally worth checking the exchange rate?
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I thought that but it takes a little longer for it to get up to temprature but once it does it seems to take longer to cool it
all you can do is suck it and see -
or run it without an oil cooler?
I run without an oil cooler with no probs but if you are concearned simply plumb a small one in the engine bay(saves a load of pipework), also if running a rad in the rear you are better off not useing a tdi rad and going for something larger like a v8 one which is a full lenght jobby which is going to give you far more cooling efficiency as you will need as much as you can get due to restricted airflow, i'm currently running a ali freelander one as it saves a fair bit of weight if that's an issue for you, good luck with it
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I would of thought a guy with your talents jeff would of flown it there
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I'll get a grip alright, but it may be of something that stings a little fella.......
Im not arguing. I wont be buying any no matter how thick they are - even if there as thick as you...
No one was asking you to buy them, the post was a simple one that a guy was chuffed to bits with his purchase and all of a sudden some so called experts have nothing better to do than rip peoples work to bits for the hell of it when i doubt very much they could do any better!
p.s i have nothing to do with adrenalin4x4 but they look just as good as anything else out there on the market if not better
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Thinnest looking 6mm ive seen in my life.
Get a grip why don't you, have some of you guys realy got nothing better to do than argue if something is 5 or 6mm thick from a photo?
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I have changed dozens of head gaskets all with no problems whatsoever until i used the mls, the head and block face were checked thoroughly and in perfect condition, the mls i used was a bearmach and was pure steel, it leaked imediatley by presurising the water system in a big way, changed it for a normal type and the job was sorted and there has been no other issues,
when you are bieng paid to do a job the customer is not likley to pay you twice because of a faulty gasket so i stick to what i know works everytime
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I Thought it was just me that had a problem with grinders
on my last vehicle build i sacraficed 5 grinders, bosch, black&decker, ryobi, i think the only answer is an air opperated one if you have a decent compressor -
A remote opperated winch for the rear works for me, he simply lets out what he needs and any experienced winchman will know when they are near the end by how far they are from the vehicle
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Probably because it's the only way to get modern levels of performance from one. Not saying I disagree with you about diesels, but if people want to play then who cares if it makes complete sense?
Adding electronics to diesel engines is not what gives them thier increased performance, it is things like larger turbos and vgt turbo's, re-developed internal combustion chambers, pistons and larger intercoolers ect ect, the electronics part comes into it to counteract the increased fuel consumption and emmisions these can cause if running at thier full potential, ie you get your ecu re-mapped to get the most out of the larger and re-developed internals,
it still boils down to the mechanical side of an engine that will produce the power the electronics will only control them and by playing with the ecu will only release the power what was allready there to start with
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Elring do, as I have just done one with a fibre gasket. However, cheaper ones tend not to come with tightening details.
The multilayer s**tpart one didn't, and when they finally told me that the angles were greater I decided to go back to an Elring fibre one.
I don't think the angles make any differnce, in a vein attempt to save me doing the job twice i pulled the head down further to as much as i dare and it still would not seal, they are just cr*p!
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MLS gaskets are becoming more popular to replace the composite type. I would say that composite gaskets have a life, whereas an MLS doesn't. You do have to make sure you get a good quality MLS gasket (I fitted a cheapy to a Freelander and it leaked before I even started the engine). BGA are good quality gaskets and Camberley Auto Factors supply them. Payen and Eling both also supply this type of gasket.
Les.
I fitted one of these metal layerd gaskets to a tdi as supplied from bearmach and it leaked straight away so had to do the whole job again with a propper one, a friend also tried one and had problems with it so i can only say from my experience don't bother and get a normal one
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pete is bang on the money with what he has said, i just don't get why anyone would want to take a perfectly good reliable tdi engine and ruin it with electronics?
there is only one group of people that gain when adding electronic cr*p to an engine and that's the manufacture's of said electronics as the electronics that run engines and vehicles allways fail well before anything mechanical does
Anyway lets see if you can figure out where you parked your truck this time!!! 
p.s i was hopping the loosing of the truck incident was our secret 
AWDC Challenger 4x4 Round 4 - Mud Monsters, East Grinstead
in Competing in Land Rovers
Posted
It was going to be twin axle club vs mud monsters