wayne5666

Please can you help with Dads Discovery 2 td5 please . It has been stood for last 6 months .Would only unlock on drivers door , with key .Fortunately, key turns off immobiliser , so car can be started !! Had to unlock other doors by using power probe on each door harness individually . Doors will not lock , or unlock . Rear windows don't work , hazard lights don't work (dashboard lights do) , indicators don't work(dashboard lights do) , rear wiper doesn't work , dashboard mounted central locking switch doesn't work . replaced BCU for used item , and has made no difference , and with neither could I get the central locking to work , using Hawkeye circuit tester .. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Hi Fenton 10 , and all , Did you get an nowhere to your problem , as I have the same problem !! Dads Disco 2 , been left for 6 months , only opens by key on drivers side .All doors were "superlocked" , so had to get the Power probe out , and unlock the doors individually .The central locking does not work on the fob , although the hazards flash on the dashboard , the interior light comes on , and the LED stops flashing , and engine de immobilises . The central locking won't operate at all , the rear electric windows don't work , the rear wiper doesn't work ,the indicators don't work ( just the ones on the dashboard, main beam warning light doesn't work .central locking button on dashboard does not work either . Have changed the BCU , for a used item , and that had no effect , other than set off the alarm that my remote was not programmed to !! I have a Hawkeye , and have done the manual circuit check , and done of the locking works on there either .Incidentally , I briefly supplied 12v power to the rear window buttons , and they both worked . And help greatfully appreciated .

Don't know where Nathan came into it ???? Then was more what I was after ..!!

Thank you folks , that's given me some pointers to look at .The problem is so intermittent , it can take weeks ,Nathan suddenly overnight , it will be flat . Thanks again .

Good evening all . I am chasing a frustrating ,and very intermittent fault on a friends 1995 Classic Soft dash 300 TDI Auto Vogue SE . It can be left for a week , and on unlocking , it may be perfect , or the battery could have absolutely no life at all .There are so sequence of events that lead to the problem , it may happen , it may not .In the past year , it has had 3 new batteries , as they have been suspected . The car has Heated seats , electric memory seats , cruise control , and air suspension The central locking is on drivers door with key , and I mobiles LED in dashboard (as Discovery 300) ..mine operates on single button remote , with LED under radio aperture . All electrics work fine , Is it conceivable , that the air suspension can cut in , and "adjust" itself , when left for a period ,consequently flattening battery .Radio has also been unplugged , just to eliminate it . Thanks in advance for your collective help .

Thanks folks. .that was my thought too .I guess you guys know ,but for those that don't ..The pressure switch is the same as P38 to '02, Saab 900 and 9000 ..and so I was told yesterday ..Ford Granada. I know have 2 spare modulators ,an accumulator and a P38 pump and pressure switch ..They cost a packet ,but not bad stock to have .. Thanks again to all ..with new incentive ,I ve fitted a new steering damper,adjusted free play in the box ,and am going out for a drive !!

BRAKES ARE FIXED !!! Thanks to Mike you are the man !!! ..Took out retaining clip and clevis pin ..brakes freed off .Found second hole in pedal ..fitted it ..re adjusted stop lamp switch .and away we go !! Several morals to this story .. 1 .If you have a manual ..READ IT Even if you know what you are doing (or think so) .It clearly states in capital letters ..fit pin in UPPER hole 2 Do not regard changing brake fluid as a task never to do ..the black sludge that was in the original modulator and callipers killed them .Bearing in mind a new modulator shows in excess of £2800 plus vat ..some DOT 4 and a couple of hours is a good investment 3 Always throw the question out there ..someone else would have had the same problem . Thank you to all who have helped ..It is very much appreciated .Now I can sort SRS light out ..Finish welding ..Repaint ...

Hi Mike , I had no idea there were 2 holes ,as I did it all by feel under there !!! I shall check that as soon as it is light ..brilliant suggestion ..Will let you know Thanks

The pump is ,to my mind ,doing as it should ..running when ignition on from cold ..building pressure ,cutting off ,cutting in after several pumps of the pedal ..running for no longer than 45s ever ..

Thank you duncmc...your train of thought is the same as mine on this ..I have replaced the switch ,with a known proven one from a P38 ..and no surprise, it is the same ..!!! My thought is this ...the pump is controlled via the pressure switch to give the accumulator the specified pressure ..when that is reached ,the pump cuts off .. (which all seems to happen as it should) ..It is then up to the booster unit (modulator ) to draw from that pressure as necessary ..if that pressure is "allowed" through an outlet ,it will apply the brakes ..I feel that the pressure is bleeding past a valve/seal inside the modulator and is getting to the outlet ..I have 2 more modulators ,and will swap one over ..

There is a replacemnet ecu on ebay ..I ll get that too .I ve invested over £700 on brakes so far ...Grrrr

Thank you for your input ...I will buy another pump today and get it in there ..stripped down my pump last night ..cleaned it through .A lot of pressure was needed to get pressure swith to go in ..I coukd just get the plunger in by pushing it against the bench ..when I did the microswitch clicked ..I then squeezed it gently in the vice and left it there for a while ..then reassembled it all and bled it ...exactly the same !!! I shall get replacement pump and switch today and will keep you up to date .. Thanks guys ..

Good evening all .. Please help with my frustrating brake problem I have a 1994 300 soft dash thar is causing so much trouble it's untrue !! My brakes stick on once ABS pump has pressurised the system .The saga started when I bought the vehicle with a rok hard pedal ,the brakes worked only when stood on ,and pulled furiously to the left .After rebuilding callipers ,replacing all flexible hoses ,copper pipes and re bleed it still pulled to the left ,although the pedal felt slightly better ..took off the modulator and cleaned it through ..damaging the "ribbon"wiring in the process !!! Bought a replacement working modulator from the US after waiting 3 weeks ,and paying customs over £100 for the privilege! ! Fitted and bled ..All was good until activating the ignition and the pump ..It did all bleed out as per factory manual ..but as soon as pressure builds the brakes all stick on .Unplug the pump..the wheels run free ,but I can't drive it as brakes are quite useless ..Just been outside and bled it again ,and wheels are free until pressure (power) system is activated ..im.at my wits end (and my wallets) and feel like burning it ...please help