[IVA - vehicles over 10 years exempt]

Been this way for a while i believe, Still believe you need a report done for major mods but least no hassle.

[Just had a dream about a Defender on air]

Cheers lads, have to admit bit fond of that build given that it is mine.

Id like to also point out the choices for the VE pump. its actually alot more drivable than a p-pump especially upto 300hp. Less agricultural quieter and saves around 40hp required to drive the P7100 in sacrificial losses. Perfect for the 130 imho. if you want 400hp plus p-pumps the way to go but at that hp ull be seeing over 1000lb-ft of torque so you can kiss goodby to any landy stuff.  Has no problem lighting the hx35w upto 2 bar. i actually like the VE good reliable pump providing you dont feed it crappy derv or let the lift pump die as its diesel lubricated.
 

 

Sorry for hijacking the thread :S 
 

[Just had a dream about a Defender on air]

Or you could just build it....

 

[Arduino projects HOWTO]

Very intrested in this topic ive seen them used in computers and other devices but im curious on using one for controlling my air suspension and also possibly using an RFid tag as an extra immobliser. 

[Options for re-engineering track rod ends / heims]

Vulcan - So is EN24T like "5 better" than EN19T? as I said I know just enough to know I don't know enough, my concerns over metallurgy are that it's easy to make something balls hard, but you don't necessarily want that in a TRE. The failure mode really wants to be bending rather than breaking. I'd consider sending a dead TRE off to a testing house to actually determine the correct metallurgy & treatment rather than guess at something that's "probably" good enough. There's also the fact that most parts like that (half shafts included) are not "base" material but are heat-treated after production, so just machining a part from the same base does not guarantee it'll actually be strong enough. We know the Volvos have some serious metallurgy in them, they didn't muck about when they made them.

The other issue with manufacturing TRE's is that there's plastic/teflon inserts and whatnot in there, not just a ball & socket.

If it were possible to work out all the specs I'd be well up for a short production run of TRE's, but as I said I'd really want to know the specs were pukka and worked out by an adult who'd be happy with the part being fitted to a vehicle used on the road.

Daan - I don't have the kit to accurately measure the taper, it's around 6.5deg angle from the centre line, top of the pin (by Lemforder's spec) is 17.55mm, same as the P38 and LR pins but obviously differing on length & taper. Sometimes they measure the tapers in inches-per-foot and other weird measurements so it's hard to be certain, what can seem like a very strange number in degrees can turn out to be a more obvious "round" number in another unit.

I have no doubt there's hundreds of other TRE's out there that fit, but short of rummaging through every box in a (very understanding) parts depot with a vernier calliper you simply can't find out which ones out of the thousands might actually work.

At this point I'm ignoring the relatively simple task of making a steering rod if it should be required, until I've worked out the plan for the TRE's there's no point thinking about arms.

Just a Note on en24t and 19t the t actually stands for treated, harder to machine but less rework, however it means usually a maximum blank thickness of 140mm you can also buy it non treated and heat treat it after. Tbh i would go to a scrap yard and find a newer vehicle with TRE that are cranked and correct. and work from there.