greendragon

Would you have to modify the engine mounts before putting in a different series or prima engine ? If you have to modify the chassis surely you would fall foul of the new DVLA regulations and mean having to go through SVA approval ? (and possible losing the series one identity). Assuming you want to drive it on the road.

Thanks Dave your advice will save me a lot of time and effort and is very much appreciated.

Dave how long is the bar, excluding wrap round section also does it have a captive nut on and if so what size is it? Many thanks for the picture and advice they were just what I needed.

I have a military style roll bar and I want to attach brackets for the top fixing point of a three point seat belt. I made up 2 plates based on the ALRC requirements (http://www.alrc.co.uk/new%20regulations/rbq10.htm) which consists of 6mm steel plates wrapped around the roll bar. However I notice that the Exmoor trim roll bar only has 2 small rectangular brackets (approx 2in x 4in) welded at right angles to the roll bar. This has made me think that the 6mm plate is too much for 'normal' use, i.e. not for competition / events. What are your thoughts on this? are the ALRC brackets overkill and are the brackets on the Exmoor trim roll bar adequate? Thanks

Did you see the Mark Evans series on Sky TV where he rebuilt a Land Rover? In one of the programs he shortened the rear tub and it involved him drilling out all the spot welds to remove the bulkhead before moving it backwards. He used a special flat faced drill bit which only cut one of the 2 panels. The trick was in finding all the spot welds. Hope this helps.

If it is a "rare" vehicle why would you make an "irreversible" mod?

Clint I don't know if this helps but on a trawl through the net I found www.kipmotor.com/Catalogs/ORPHAN5A.pdf. Listed on page 30 (near to the top of right hand column) is :- L833/54579811 - Amber lens - $46.50. A lot of money for a lens. It's a US / Canada based company dealing in parts for British vehicles and the first page of their catalogue it states:- AUSTIN TO VAUXHALL ONE CALL DOES IT ALL "Sales, Service, Restoration & Parts for Uncommon British Cars" It doesn't list Land Rover but judging by the cat. number the lens appears to be the one you want. Send them an email. Good luck.

Nick I am in Nottinghamshire so not that close to you but thanks anyway for the generous offer. Cheers.

Yep in the end you might turn out to be right but, ever an optimist I thought I would try to repair it. I'll either save £60 + or waste £12. Thanks for the reply.

I have broken the bolt on the front of the starter motor that secures the solenoid cable. I have ordered a service kit off ebay which includes 4 brushes and 2 bushes and aim to do carry out the repairs myself. Replacing the bushes doesn't look to be too difficult but am I right in saying that the brush assembly is held in place by 2 rivets? if so what rivets do you use to fix it back in place? Also is it easy to replace the bushes? Cheers .

Thanks Matt it does help in so far as it confirms my original thought about where the white/red wire went. Your reply also helps me understand how the solenoid works, thanks. Roger I did understand your reply to mean the spade on the main terminal. Thanks again.

Many thanks Roger 5 minutes and it will all be connected (well make it 10)

Roger should I run a separate wire to earth from the body of the solenoid or is it earthed enough when bolted to the battery tray? there are 2 spade connectors on one of the main connectors what would these be used for? also the hole in the body of the solenoid (bottom middle of photo) goes right inside so could there be a problem with dirt or moisture getting in? thanks Hopefully the photo of the new solenoid has come out so you see what I mean.

Hi could someone please help me sort out a couple of problems I have in fitting a new solenoid to my S3 2.25 petrol. I took the landy apart 5 years ago and didn't think it was necessary to label the solenoid wires up as I thought it would be a straight forward job to reconnect them. However none of the manuals tells you which terminal is which i/e battery side / starter motor side etc. This suggests that it doesn't matter which side is which but is this right? The second problem (?) is with the new (non genuine) solenoid as it has one less spade terminal than the old Lucas one. There are 4 male spade terminals on the Lucas solenoid 2 on one of the main bolt terminals and 2 in the centre - one facing up one facing down when fitted to the battery tray. On the new one the one facing down is missing and there is a hole that goes into the main body of the solenoid. On several S3's I have seen recently the white/red wire appeared to be connected to the terminal that is missing on my new solenoid. Will it matter if the wire is attached to the other terminal? Thanks.

Glad to be of help. They supplied a second hand clutch sleeve for my Fairey overdrive and it was in very good condition.

Try LEGS in Chirk near Wrexham - www.legs.co.uk

Brilliant. Thank you.

To the Administrator - Did my reply to Les get lost or is it still to be checked? Sorry if I am being impatient.

Les both the hazard warning unit and the flasher unit were in the Land Rover when I bought it 5 years ago. When I took the wiring apart I thought I labelled everything I needed to, but I obviously missed some. I did mark both units with the colour of the wires that were attached to them and they have now been reconnected as before. You may well be right about the green/brown wire being the power wire which switches between left and right. Unfortunately it wasn't a wire that I labelled and I have no idea where it should go. The flasher unit only has 2 terminals so the green/brown wire can't fit onto it. The hazard warning unit has 4 terminals but only 2 wires were originally connected to it. A spare loom I have also has both units on it and the wiring is the same except there is an additional green wire attached to the hazard warning unit. I assume that the hazard warning kit (optional extra) came with fitting instructions but up until now I have been unable to locate a copy. Cheers

Hi everyone. This is my first time on this forum so please be gentle with me. I am in the process of rebuilding a series 111 SWB 2.25 petrol and I have a problem with wiring up the hazard warning unit. After wiring up the gauges and switches I found I had 3 wires left over, green wire with male spade, green wire with female spade and a light green wire with brown stripe and female spade. The green/brown wire mentioned above is from the indicator switch and according to the wiring diagram should go on the flasher unit. I assume the wiring of the units alters when the hazard warning switch is added. The hazard warning unit has 2 wires attached - green/yellow and green/purple The flasher unit also has 2 wires attached - brown and a green/white (might be green/pink) Autosparks sent me a diagram and instructions detailing the fitting of a hazard warning switch but no mention is made of the green/brown wire from the indicator switch. The fitting instructions said the connect the 2 green wires together, which I have now done. But what/where should the green/brown wire go. I would be grateful if anyone can help me sort this out. Many thanks.