Rattles
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Posts posted by Rattles
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I really like your sacrificial over-coat description and allowing it to develope into a water repelling goo. I have found this to be very effective since dropping a waxed approach. Obviously with oils it stays mobile on the steel surface through capillary action and a re-coat simply energises that process as you lower the viscosity again. Getting the Chassis Wand into all the internal voids has been very effective as you don't need to scramble completely under the vehicle, and I'm going to give ramps a go for the general under surfaces. The steamer sounds like a beast .....I'll have a word with my brother to get his hand in his pocket..lol?
I think there are quite a few people out there that mistakenly use thinned engine oil to protect under surfaces and voids....they ought to think of it as battery acid...not good. If I lay anything up for winter I'll always change the engine oil to reduce the acid attack.
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Does your steamer also lift under-seal, as I would possibly think of investing.
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Absolutely...although some oils are obviously hydrophilic..
Regarding 'hard work' I'm tempted to get some ramps as it's just fitting under the thing that I struggle with..maybe slimming tablets would also work..?
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Wow..that's dedication to hard work mate. I've long since preferred to drive moisture out of cavities and seams with a hydrophobic oil, also very effective this time of year but then I don't use wax anymore.
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Your call Steve, what's your plans for the internal surfaces mate?
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As long as you don't use a detergent it tends to stay put, but at 2,000 PSI a jet washer is perfect at getting water into and behind everything (I knackered my level sensors when I used to use one) and as it's only mud we're shifting so I now use a hosepipe with one of those garden angled lances from Wilcos and the like....works a treat and you don't blow it all over next doors washing..?
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Maverik's just bought both and says he was 'chuffed'.....I'm assuming that's good?
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Both of eBay mate..
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Just sprayed the middle and forward door pillars internally with Duck Oil. I thought about drilling a 5mm hole in the top of the pillars behind the trim (as I said earlier), easy enough and wouldn't disturb the structural integrity of the pillars but on second thoughts it's pointless as its only the bottom 20% that goes black and drop off, so I removed the wiring gators from the pillars and fed my Chassis Wand down to the cills, fired it up and slowly retrieved it out the pillars. You will see a witnessing of oil seeping along the lower spot welded seam of the cill so you know it's getting into all the water traps. Interestingly I could hear the middle near side pillar bubbling when the wand was activated at cill depth, took the drain (rubber/plastic) grommet out, got a length of wire in there and after a lot of cursing/waggling was rewarded with half a pint of rusty water and bits of goo up my sleeve. Turns out it was a decomposing plug af wax from a previous life blocking the drain hole (I'd have a look in but my endoscope is still k...d)....easy job and I've added it to my list of orifices to regularly spray.
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I use Waxoil on by bikes over winter and then wash it off with Gunk in early spring and it does a great job of of keeping the ravages of salt away from painted steel and lacquered aluminium but these surfaces are pristine and Corosion free. Banging Waxoil over corroded steel is a different matter though and my previous LRs went from bad to rotten. My mates a lorry mechanic and TVR enthusiast and he commented one day that you never see a rusty lorry chassis and undercarriage as it's always coated in a film of oil and dust, so we both ditched wax and went over to light oils and eventually settled on Duck Oil...never a problem since and my welder sits in the back of the garage with a layer of dust on it....sorted☺️
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Recently bought a gallon of Duck Oil of eBay for 24 quid and it included a reasonable quality hand sprayer and that works fine, easily okay to spray the whole underside in about 20 minutes.
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..in fact I don't think that there's a fix and forget solution for chassis corrosion (other than a new galvanised chassis..£££), I treat it as a serviced item (much like an engine oil change) and include it into the service schedule.
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...totally agree, after a couple of applications mixed with general road dust there is a very robust hydrophobic film developed and each application of oil mobilises the previous so keeping the surfaces constantly wetted especially internal surfaces.
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...I managed to fit the Wand into the small gap between the fuel tank and the boot floor panel (a common rot area) and right through the cross beams. I'm planning to get into the five doors through the water drain holes, rear door pillars and central pillars over the weekend, I'll remove some of the interior trim and commit to drilling a 5mm hole (I have some rubber plugs) high up to access the pillars and feeding the wand down, you can usually feel when it hits a dead stop...I'll let you know how I get on.
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As a biker ...you are absolutely right, a thorough mop up is always a good idea after a job like this. I recall the chassis wands instructions emphasising this.
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Sprayed the inside of my D2 cills yesterday afternoon, I did two passes at full pressure on each.....I'm not paranoid ..honest?
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On 15 January 2017 at 1:04 PM, simonr said:
I'm not sure it's spam as such. For some reason people get very enthusiastic about their favorite miracle (Snake?) Oil. You're probably all too young to remember
the way people raved about WD40 when it came out (or at least arrived in the UK) where now most people view it as being less special. I guess it is as it always was with Snake Oil.
Having said that, at a show I was given a free can of 'Mechanic-All' spray. No better than the rest, except for tapping holes in Stainless. It's the best thing I've found! Unfortunately, I've never managed to buy another can (but I still have the original and keep it just for that!). So, I guess that would be my favorite Snake Oil.
Si
Hmm....Just read my post and your right it does sound a bit nerdy...I'll go and stand in the garage for an hour?
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On 15 January 2017 at 11:31 AM, jason110 said:
Thank you for that. Will have a look for it. Is it the sort of stuff I can get from a half decent motor factors?
yeh ..but I get it off eBay, careful though as the price varies quite a bit from around £24 up to £35+ for a five litre can.
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Hi, My D2 is testament to regularly using a simple but very effective oil spray, in my estimation (and a growing opinion) Duck Oil (marketed by Swarfega) is superb. You hear time and time again that encapsulating corrosion behind supposedly sophisticated coatings, converters and especially wax products just excellerates the rot as moisture penetrates behind these layers. Duck Oil will stay wetted and continues to actively displace moisture, penetrate and passivate corroded surfaces for up to 12 months (although I do mine every 6 months) It's easy to apply with a garden sprayer externaly. Internal chassis and cill surfaces are even more critical as these components rot from the inside out, again Duck Oil will neutralised existing corrosion, arrest further deterioration and drive out moisture 'Chassis Wand' on eBay will atomise Duck Oil and will reach deep into the chassis (or any complex internal structure) as full coverage has to be guarenteed. This process is Simple, easy, cheap and vey very effective....unfortunately there's a lot of companies out there pushing some quite damaging products when applied over rust....in fact I recently spoken to one guy who described Waxoil as 'the silent assassin'......!!!
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On 18 December 2016 at 11:02 AM, ejparrott said:
If you are on Facebook you can look up the Buzzweld group and Craig Jones and all is there to see, there is also a website but I've not looked at it.
Testing is as basic as it gets....a range of kwality coatings have been applied as directed by the manufacturers/old wives tales and left out to weather. Dates are noted, and signs of rust formation are noted alongside. Grease and oil failed within the first week, a bunch of other coatings failed to do what the manufacturers stated, but interestingly Screwfix own trade red oxide primer was one of the best performers.
Thanks, my endoscope bulb popped the other week but once I found a replacement (probably from the national science museum, stamped up Eddison) I'll post a couple of pictures of my ageing Disco chassis internal (I sound a bit nerdy now) that I spray with Duck oil every year, not only has it totally arrested all further corrosion but it stays wet with oil in its shrouded invironment.
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5 hours ago, ejparrott said:
Check out Buzzweld. He's been running samples of age old tricks for rust prevention. Grease lasted about 24 hours, oil failed within a week.
Thanks that's interesting, do you khow how the trial was conducted and the samples assessed and what constituted a failure. Time after time I see the end results of rampant oxide formations under the encapsulation of wax...much like simply painting over corrosion. Not so bad when you can thoroughly process the surface when it's external and the Buzzweld product and processes for external surfaces is exelent...but not convinced that they have a solution for internal surfaces as they have simply reverted back to wax. And assessing internal deterioration is very difficult if not impossible without an endoscope ...not the usual toolbox kit and by the time you realise there's a problem it's often and sadly too late.
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Hi guys, can I just say I've tried all sorts of tricks and coatings on internal chassis beams over the years and nothing comes near to the Corosion neutralising, pasivating, seeking and preserving effect of oil...simple cheap very effective. Basically where there's oil you won't be troubled with rust. Spraying a chassis or sill internally couldn't be simpler...check out Chassis Wand on eBay...
the way people raved about WD40 when it came out (or at least arrived in the UK) where now most people view it as being less special. I guess it is as it always was with Snake Oil.
Which anti corrosion spray
in International Forum
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'cnock the old coating off'.... Sounds like a job for a monster diesel powered steamer..?