Rattles

'cnock the old coating off'.... Sounds like a job for a monster diesel powered steamer..?

I really like your sacrificial over-coat description and allowing it to develope into a water repelling goo. I have found this to be very effective since dropping a waxed approach. Obviously with oils it stays mobile on the steel surface through capillary action and a re-coat simply energises that process as you lower the viscosity again. Getting the Chassis Wand into all the internal voids has been very effective as you don't need to scramble completely under the vehicle, and I'm going to give ramps a go for the general under surfaces. The steamer sounds like a beast .....I'll have a word with my brother to get his hand in his pocket..lol? I think there are quite a few people out there that mistakenly use thinned engine oil to protect under surfaces and voids....they ought to think of it as battery acid...not good. If I lay anything up for winter I'll always change the engine oil to reduce the acid attack.

Does your steamer also lift under-seal, as I would possibly think of investing.

Absolutely...although some oils are obviously hydrophilic.. Regarding 'hard work' I'm tempted to get some ramps as it's just fitting under the thing that I struggle with..maybe slimming tablets would also work..?

Wow..that's dedication to hard work mate. I've long since preferred to drive moisture out of cavities and seams with a hydrophobic oil, also very effective this time of year but then I don't use wax anymore.

Your call Steve, what's your plans for the internal surfaces mate?

As long as you don't use a detergent it tends to stay put, but at 2,000 PSI a jet washer is perfect at getting water into and behind everything (I knackered my level sensors when I used to use one) and as it's only mud we're shifting so I now use a hosepipe with one of those garden angled lances from Wilcos and the like....works a treat and you don't blow it all over next doors washing..?

Maverik's just bought both and says he was 'chuffed'.....I'm assuming that's good?

Both of eBay mate..

Just sprayed the middle and forward door pillars internally with Duck Oil. I thought about drilling a 5mm hole in the top of the pillars behind the trim (as I said earlier), easy enough and wouldn't disturb the structural integrity of the pillars but on second thoughts it's pointless as its only the bottom 20% that goes black and drop off, so I removed the wiring gators from the pillars and fed my Chassis Wand down to the cills, fired it up and slowly retrieved it out the pillars. You will see a witnessing of oil seeping along the lower spot welded seam of the cill so you know it's getting into all the water traps. Interestingly I could hear the middle near side pillar bubbling when the wand was activated at cill depth, took the drain (rubber/plastic) grommet out, got a length of wire in there and after a lot of cursing/waggling was rewarded with half a pint of rusty water and bits of goo up my sleeve. Turns out it was a decomposing plug af wax from a previous life blocking the drain hole (I'd have a look in but my endoscope is still k...d)....easy job and I've added it to my list of orifices to regularly spray.

I use Waxoil on by bikes over winter and then wash it off with Gunk in early spring and it does a great job of of keeping the ravages of salt away from painted steel and lacquered aluminium but these surfaces are pristine and Corosion free. Banging Waxoil over corroded steel is a different matter though and my previous LRs went from bad to rotten. My mates a lorry mechanic and TVR enthusiast and he commented one day that you never see a rusty lorry chassis and undercarriage as it's always coated in a film of oil and dust, so we both ditched wax and went over to light oils and eventually settled on Duck Oil...never a problem since and my welder sits in the back of the garage with a layer of dust on it....sorted☺️

Recently bought a gallon of Duck Oil of eBay for 24 quid and it included a reasonable quality hand sprayer and that works fine, easily okay to spray the whole underside in about 20 minutes.

..in fact I don't think that there's a fix and forget solution for chassis corrosion (other than a new galvanised chassis..£££), I treat it as a serviced item (much like an engine oil change) and include it into the service schedule.

...totally agree, after a couple of applications mixed with general road dust there is a very robust hydrophobic film developed and each application of oil mobilises the previous so keeping the surfaces constantly wetted especially internal surfaces.

...I managed to fit the Wand into the small gap between the fuel tank and the boot floor panel (a common rot area) and right through the cross beams. I'm planning to get into the five doors through the water drain holes, rear door pillars and central pillars over the weekend, I'll remove some of the interior trim and commit to drilling a 5mm hole (I have some rubber plugs) high up to access the pillars and feeding the wand down, you can usually feel when it hits a dead stop...I'll let you know how I get on.