ShortTimers
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Posts posted by ShortTimers
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Thanks to everyone for the help you gave.. I now know a lot more about the wiring in the truck but I'm sure I'll be asking for more help wine I mess it up :-)
but just in case anyone wants to know which wire is the main switched live under the drivers seat it's the bottom thick white/red wire.. I'll add a picture at the weekend when I've spurred into it.
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On 11/09/2017 at 10:55 AM, timc1967 said:
That's a weird site - doesn't explicity state that these are pretty much all direct replacement Defender parts. Is that the case?
Prices are high, but I can see its heavy duty, built to last; more so than OEM.
They are direct replacements, I've fitted the bonnet hinges and I watched a guy swap the door handles on his truck and it seemed to fit with no problems or fettling needed. But as Mo said not great if you catch a tree as your likely to loose half the door before the handles give way... they are well made....
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On 28/08/2017 at 9:51 AM, Mo Murphy said:
The thing is shorty, that the wire from the vehicle harness is not capable of supplying the power that you need now and in the future. You will only draw milliamps through it to close the relay. It's job is to tell the relay when to close and when to open thus only providing power to your new fuse box only when the ignition is on and in doing so only drawing a tiny amount through your vehicles original wiring.
Mo
Thanks Mo, that really helps, I was forgetting about the fact that the switch live is just used to activate the relay and not actually carrying the power form the battery to the AUX fuse box.
I'm still struggling to find the right pin in the main fuse box to use as the switched live feed so I'm going to use the one from the front wing.. chop all the feeds that its going to and run a single wire to the new Aux fuse box... then run all devices from that. a lot neater.
Do you have any thoughts about the bets place to mount the Aux fuse box on a 110? I've found a good place in the 90 as I can boult it just behind the passenger seat as I have a box in the back but the 110 doesn't give me that luxury.
Cheers
Shorty
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On 26/08/2017 at 7:13 PM, Mo Murphy said:
1. 40 amp relay should suffice.
2. If you wire straight from the battery to the fuse box shortimers, it won't be ignition switched. The relay is opening and closing according to whether the ignition is on or off.
I know it's hard to get you head round in the beginning 😊
HTH
Mo
Thanks Mo I'll get. 40amp relay so that's the easy part.
I think I see what your saying about creating the ignition switched through the relay, but I just want to check my thinking...
i take an ignition switched live feed from the main fuse box and that flows into the relay, I then take a permanent live from the battery and that feeds into the relay as well. The output from that relay will then give me an ignition switched live witch I can take to the new auxiliary fuse box... this should means I can then run all the devices that need ignition switch lives from the auxiliary fuse box... or am I still getting it wrong.
One last question... I think I know the answer but wanted to check my logic...
once I've found the ignition switch live in the main fuse box won't that already have been through a relay at some point creating an ignition switched live? I had thought originally I could take that ignition switch live straits into the auxiliary fuse box... but from what I think everyone is saying its best to insert a new relay between the main fuse box and the auxiliary fuse box and have that relay powered by the battery creating a new ignition switched live circuit and that won't put any strain on the original wiring.....
thanks as always
shorty
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On 24/08/2017 at 10:50 PM, western said:
2007 on door hinges start with BDB****** upto 2007 hinges start with MXC or STC or BDB,
have a wander round in here http://cat.lrparts.ru/
hinges come complete = both halves secured with the pin, you can't buy just the door part or bulkhead part seperate.
Thats a handy URL Western thanks for sharing it seems to have some of the codes that aren't on Land Rover Workshop... ok the Russian text is a little off putting but the diagrams are good.
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On 20/08/2017 at 9:35 PM, Mudmonkey said:
Link to connector info here
Thanks Mudmonkey I'll make contact with Paul to see if he still does the connectors.
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On 20/08/2017 at 10:33 AM, Mo Murphy said:
Shorty, basically your relay switches a connection from battery to your new auxiliary fuse box. The relay is in turn switched by one ignition switched live.
Apologies if I'm teaching my grandmother to stuck eggs.
You turn the ignition on, that closes the relay, power flows to the fuse box. Turn the ignition off, the relay opens, and power to the auxiliary fuse box stops, hence ignition switched.
The beauty of it is that you only use one ignition switched live wire to run EVERYTHING that you want and you'll only draw enough current from that ignition sourced supply to keep the relay closed (milliamps). The power for your accessories goes via another terminal on the relay straight from battery to auxiliary fuse box.
No strain then on the existing harness and fuses.
Normally you would source the ignition switched live from a spare slot on your vehicles fuse box or from an unused slot in a connector.
I'm not familiar with new Defenders fuse board layouts but I'm sure someone with more knowledge can point you in the right direction.
All much safer than piggybacking off existing circuits.
Fuse boxes come in all shapes and sizes.
I used this one as it has one supply for each bank of fuses. I use one side for an ignition switched supply to power an extra fan, the cb (I kept leaving it on and flattening the battery 😉) etc. And the other side as a permanent live for things like power sockets and usb sockets.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192217279549
I also run all my supplies with twin core wire of the appropriate size and take the earth back to the earth busbar on the fuse box. As this is connected directly to the negative terminal of the battery I get the best earth.
HTH
Mo
Thanks Mo thats great all advice welcomed... and don't worry i'm really glad you are going through it at that level... the last thing I want to do is cock it up.... already had to fix the Switched live soldering that was put on the truck when someone else fitted the LED head lights...
Once I can find the Switched live in the main fuse box I'm going to do as you suggested and run everything back to a separate fuse box like the ones you posted. I had intended to use multi core 16mm2 cable ratted for 100 amps to supply the earth and permanent live from the battery with a 100amp fuse in the battery compartment. In reality I'm only going to be running DLR's/Halo head lamps and extra USB socket in the cab so nothing to heavy duty but want to get it right.
I like the idea of running both switched live/permanent live and earth out of one box... so much neater and easier to fix if something goes wrong. As you said it stops the piggy backing.
The only other thing that I'm struggling with concept wise is the Relay bit. I get the principles of the relay, thats fine with power it closes and without it opens and breaks the circuit. So the questions I have is:
1) what relay should I use?
2) I understand that the switched live goes 'from the main fuse box(when I can find the right out put pins) into the relay and then onto the auxiliary fuse box. But you mentioned 'The power for your accessories goes via another terminal on the relay straight from battery to auxiliary fuse box. so are we saying that I have to put the power from the battery directly into the relay and then onto the Auxiliary fuse box. I thought I would wire the permanent live straight into the auxiliary fuse box... Or am I miss reading it.
Really appreciate the help.
Cheers
Shorty
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14 hours ago, Mudmonkey said:
I'm 99% sure that I got a switched live from a "spare" hole in the passenger side connector when I had my 2.4 puma. Just get a multimeter, pull out the rubber bungs and check which are live with the ignition. The pins for the connector are available online.
That's what I originally thought but can't find the code for the connector or the pins. I'd really like to rewire the drivers side switch live as when they installed the Halo lights they cut it really short but I couldn't work out how to get the pin out of the housing. It was a flat spade like pin and I didn't want to push it to hard in case it bent.
do you know the part code for the connector or the pins as that's another option. Did the blank plug just pop out?
thanks Shorty
sorry just noticed the subject should say switched live not switched Earth......
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14 hours ago, Mo Murphy said:
TBH shorty, I wouldn't be looking at running anything from the standard wiring except a relay, which will only take milliamps.
If you want additional power supplies for accessories then do it properly and put a small fuse box and an ignition switched relay in your battery box and run the stuff you want from that.
It's really simple and easy to do and a whole lot safer than piggy backing off other circuits.
HTH
Mo
Thanks Mo, I was going to run a permanent live from the fuse box and as you said I want to do this for a couple of other aux feeds so was going to use a separate fuse box in the battery compartment. but my electronic knowledge is limited although getting better, any recommendations on a good fuse unit to get?
How would the ignition switch relay work? Wouldn't I need to feed that from an existing ignition switch live?
Just for completeness I'll explain what I'm trying to do. I want to run 2x set of LED DLR lights and the LED HALO head lights. I need 2x ignition lives for both Halo these are currently run from the existing wiring on the right hand side as per the picture, they basically daisy Chain from the drivers side and over to the passenger side.
The DLR's also have 2x ignition switch live as well as the need for 2 permant live which I've already run back to the battery box.
But as you said it's going to be easier to use an extra fuse box in the battery compartment as it's going to get messy in their I suspect as I continue to want to add stuff.
thanks Shorty
PS - I've found this simple guide about fitting an auxiliary fuse box so got that covered now so just need to understand how I make the switched live circuit work as I imagine I can run the relay from this new auxiliary box.
http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/auxillary-fusebox-install/
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Another wiring related question..... I've managed to get hold of a wiring diagram for a 2012 truck so should be the same as mine I would have thought but I'm struggling to take the flat wiring diagram and relate it to the actual wiring on the truck.
I was told that a switched live can be found at both the top right and top left of the engine bay in the two harnesses with grey connectors but I can't work out how I link these connectors to the wireing diagram.
I was lucky enough to work out that a set of Halo lights had been wired up to the switch live on the right hand side but this is just a black wire... lucky I went looking as the fixing started to come apart so I've soldered that back together but don't really want to take another switch live off of that wire.
So I wanted to identify which wire on the left hand side is the switched live... I had thought it might be a mirrored connector so I could just use the same wire layout from the right hand side.... but nothing is ever that easy... the left hand side has about half the amount of wires.
am I missing something another manual that explains what these connectors do or which wires do what.
ill upload the pictures of the connectors to give people a fighting chance of understanding what I'm on about :-)
thanks in advance
Shorty
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On 12/08/2017 at 6:49 AM, Peaklander said:
Ctek make a range of intelligent chargers which sense the battery condition and adjust the charger output (voltage and or current) accordingly.
You can connect the charger and leave it for weeks, knowing that the battery will be correctly maintained (a tiny top-up charge) once it has been brought up to full charge. The charger is supplied with a ring connector pair with a short cable and socket. Mine is wired to leave the socket poking out from under the passenger seat for easy access when the charger needs to be connected / disconnected.
The MXS 5.0 is a suitable charger in their range and you can buy it for around £55. I'm sure there are alternatives too but I have had good experience with this brand.
If you are parking for a few weeks, I wouldn't have thought that there's anything else to do except to be sure that the interior is left dry, so check under any mats, especially in the footwells.
I've used the MXS and it's working great... tried a couple of others over the years but this one seems up to the job so would recommend.
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15 hours ago, Andrew N said:
I'm planning to make a custom cubby box, and want to trim the lid with fabric to match the seats. I'm fitting Puma seats in a combination of Black Span and Mondus fabrics so I want to locate a small piece of one of those. Any ideas where from?
I've seen these guys on face book offering off cuts to help people out... might be worth a try Doncaster Trimmers 01302860631..... never used them my self but they get a lot of good reviews.
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thanks all that makes a lot of sense now.
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thanks Arjan, that really helps I think I'll do something similar as I've got a similar set of hight issues as you describe above. looks like you ahem your work cut out with all the building work. Good looking 110.
Thanks for your help.
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2 hours ago, Arjan said:
Me being Dutch, that's easy....
.... don't ask me about German though....
now your talking.. my father in law is dutch so he can translate
also an architect so any drawing you have or pictures I'm sure he can work them out for me. thanks for your help.
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Just now, Arjan said:
No problem.
Let me try to make a drawing for you as that might be easier - English is not my native tongue.....
Thanks Arjan that would really help. and your english is better than my French :-D
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28 minutes ago, western said:
IIRC its just to signify which bolts have been fitted and torque loaded = that particular task is complete.
don't know if the different colours have any meaning.
there are so many different torque settings for all the various bolts, doubt the standard one colour range would be large enough to cover all settings.
Thanks western, in that case its back to the work shop manual for torque settings.. thought it might be a quick way round.. but as you say looks like every set of bolts on the truck have different settings.
Cheers shorty
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I've looked on the web an on a number of LR sites but can't find any topic relating to the colours on top of the bolt heads in my Puma. I imagine they have something to do with Torque rating but wanted to see if anyone actually knows the reason for the colour. if the colours do relate to to torque ratings any idea which colour equates to which Torque rating?
Thanks Shorty
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On 19/09/2016 at 3:59 PM, Arjan said:
Get some mesh in or you'll regret it later.. Even chicken wire stuff helps a lot. It is relatively cheap, makes the concrete so much stronger and if you make some pictures while building you can show you're a serious man when it comes to construction.
Over the years, we used a lot of concrete for various projects, both in Holland and France, and this is what we're building at the moment here :
Yes : a 13 x 6 x 3.5 mtrs. ABRI
We have poured a 7-10 cm. thick floor. Overkill for horses but in the futere, when selling the place, machinery etc. will be no problem.
Steel armouring is very important. to get a strong floor. This is what we do.
And no, this is not the new workshop - this is just for the horses....
The next project is another ABRI like this, just 2 x times al long : 26 mtrs long, 6 mtrs. wide and 2.8 mtrs. high. for firewood, Land Rovers, trailers and hay storage..
Eventually, the workshop will be 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs - including a 4 poster ramp we'll partly sink in the floor for easier access to the engine bay etc.....
Hi Arjan, not sure if this question is relevant for the general posts so excuse dragging up something from last year but your comments about building a work shop might save me some grey matter.... "Eventually, the workshop will be 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs - including a 4 poster ramp we'll partly sink in the floor for easier access to the engine bay etc...."
I'm in the planning stage of a workshop and I want to put in a lift. But its the hight thats giving me a few issues I've got 4m at the ridge but you talked about sinking the lift for easier access... how did that work in reality? or did you just lover the floor between the lift so you could gain extra hight access under the truck... if so how far did you go down.
Any suggestions you can give would be greatly appreciated.
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On 20/07/2017 at 0:16 PM, Snagger said:
I don't like the idea of piggybacking off the wiring to the lighter - while you shouldn't have any safety problem if you keep the original fuse rating for that circuit, human nature leads people to cut corners and sooner or later you could end up overloading the circuit running an accessory from the lighter socket (or using the lighter itself) while also using the USB sockets. It also seems folly to risk a single failure causing all power sockets to be unserviceable. I'd run a separate feed from the battery, with a fuse as close to the battery as possible. That'd also have the advantage of allowing a phone to be recharged without leaving the keys in the ignition, so a flat phone can be hidden and recharged without you remaining with the vehicle.
Thanks for all the advice, really helps a newbie to wiring like me..... I've piggbacked off the lighter, dumped the Scotch lock option and soldered them properly with an in line fuse.... for the short term but will put in a dedicated separate wire when I next run the cables from the battery box to the front dash... I'll need to run some wires when I put a sub in behind the central storage box anyway.
Couple of questions what gauge wire would you all suggest running into the extra fuse box, and any recommendations for any fuse boxes that I can mount in the battery box?
Ok this might sound like another stupid question... I understand that you have to earth circuit and I keep reading that this should be done on the body of the truck.. but does this need to be on a bare bit of metal with no paint on it? or is it worth me tracing the cable back from the battery neutral as that must be attached the truck at some point?
Just to answer the question Peaklander asked... I've got a fan for the dog box in the back and thats runs from a lighter socket. and I use the USB in the radio front panel to charge the SAT NAV... so just wanted something extra for the iPhone :-)
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thanks western. I'll go looking in mine.
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10 hours ago, western said:
majority of earth [plain black] wires are on a single screw/bolt on the bulkhead in engine bay usually near the clutch master cylinder/fuel filter area. there should be a multi bullet connector with plain black wires behind the instrument pack on a pre 1990 vehicle as well.
Will the earth point on the later models be in the same area in the engine bay?
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thanks I'll use 1.0mm and I'll give the soldering a go as you said its a more permeant fix and I need the practice as LED lights to do next.
Yep I've found loads of wiring diagrams for the older models but none for the 63 plate trucks. The closest I can find is 2012 and I got the link form this site so might try and use that as it will at least give me a good starting point.
going off topic for a moment what's the best place to get torque setting from? I've got the 1400 page manual that on here but was wondering will a Haynes manual have these kind of measurements in it as the other document is a real chore to try and go through to find the torque measurements.
Thanks in advance.
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Thanks Nick... really appreciate the help... its a later model and the power cuts off to the lighter socket the moment you turn the key off so it looks likes a live ignition feed on the later models as you say.
So.... a question, can I use Scotch snap connections as its behind the dashboard rather than soldering or am I just asking for trouble and I should solder as a more permanent solution... you said you were looking at diagrams do you have a wiring diagram, for the later models?
Also when you say 1mm Sq wire... could I get away with 16/0.20mm, 0.5mm2 which is rated at 11amps continues carrying capacity?
Thanks
Shorty
also an architect so any drawing you have or pictures I'm sure he can work them out for me. thanks for your help.
Dog guard fitting
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Try this link it's for the original LR manual and it's the one for the 110 with front facing 3rd row.
http://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10290/Cargo Barrier Installation - LR006447.pdf