ShortTimers

Try this link it's for the original LR manual and it's the one for the 110 with front facing 3rd row. http://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10290/Cargo Barrier Installation - LR006447.pdf

Thanks to everyone for the help you gave.. I now know a lot more about the wiring in the truck but I'm sure I'll be asking for more help wine I mess it up :-) but just in case anyone wants to know which wire is the main switched live under the drivers seat it's the bottom thick white/red wire.. I'll add a picture at the weekend when I've spurred into it.

They are direct replacements, I've fitted the bonnet hinges and I watched a guy swap the door handles on his truck and it seemed to fit with no problems or fettling needed. But as Mo said not great if you catch a tree as your likely to loose half the door before the handles give way... they are well made....

Thanks Mo, that really helps, I was forgetting about the fact that the switch live is just used to activate the relay and not actually carrying the power form the battery to the AUX fuse box. I'm still struggling to find the right pin in the main fuse box to use as the switched live feed so I'm going to use the one from the front wing.. chop all the feeds that its going to and run a single wire to the new Aux fuse box... then run all devices from that. a lot neater. Do you have any thoughts about the bets place to mount the Aux fuse box on a 110? I've found a good place in the 90 as I can boult it just behind the passenger seat as I have a box in the back but the 110 doesn't give me that luxury. Cheers Shorty

Thanks Mo I'll get. 40amp relay so that's the easy part. I think I see what your saying about creating the ignition switched through the relay, but I just want to check my thinking... i take an ignition switched live feed from the main fuse box and that flows into the relay, I then take a permanent live from the battery and that feeds into the relay as well. The output from that relay will then give me an ignition switched live witch I can take to the new auxiliary fuse box... this should means I can then run all the devices that need ignition switch lives from the auxiliary fuse box... or am I still getting it wrong. One last question... I think I know the answer but wanted to check my logic... once I've found the ignition switch live in the main fuse box won't that already have been through a relay at some point creating an ignition switched live? I had thought originally I could take that ignition switch live straits into the auxiliary fuse box... but from what I think everyone is saying its best to insert a new relay between the main fuse box and the auxiliary fuse box and have that relay powered by the battery creating a new ignition switched live circuit and that won't put any strain on the original wiring..... thanks as always shorty

Thats a handy URL Western thanks for sharing it seems to have some of the codes that aren't on Land Rover Workshop... ok the Russian text is a little off putting but the diagrams are good.

Thanks Mudmonkey I'll make contact with Paul to see if he still does the connectors.

Thanks Mo thats great all advice welcomed... and don't worry i'm really glad you are going through it at that level... the last thing I want to do is cock it up.... already had to fix the Switched live soldering that was put on the truck when someone else fitted the LED head lights... Once I can find the Switched live in the main fuse box I'm going to do as you suggested and run everything back to a separate fuse box like the ones you posted. I had intended to use multi core 16mm2 cable ratted for 100 amps to supply the earth and permanent live from the battery with a 100amp fuse in the battery compartment. In reality I'm only going to be running DLR's/Halo head lamps and extra USB socket in the cab so nothing to heavy duty but want to get it right. I like the idea of running both switched live/permanent live and earth out of one box... so much neater and easier to fix if something goes wrong. As you said it stops the piggy backing. The only other thing that I'm struggling with concept wise is the Relay bit. I get the principles of the relay, thats fine with power it closes and without it opens and breaks the circuit. So the questions I have is: 1) what relay should I use? 2) I understand that the switched live goes 'from the main fuse box(when I can find the right out put pins) into the relay and then onto the auxiliary fuse box. But you mentioned 'The power for your accessories goes via another terminal on the relay straight from battery to auxiliary fuse box. so are we saying that I have to put the power from the battery directly into the relay and then onto the Auxiliary fuse box. I thought I would wire the permanent live straight into the auxiliary fuse box... Or am I miss reading it. Really appreciate the help. Cheers Shorty

That's what I originally thought but can't find the code for the connector or the pins. I'd really like to rewire the drivers side switch live as when they installed the Halo lights they cut it really short but I couldn't work out how to get the pin out of the housing. It was a flat spade like pin and I didn't want to push it to hard in case it bent. do you know the part code for the connector or the pins as that's another option. Did the blank plug just pop out? thanks Shorty sorry just noticed the subject should say switched live not switched Earth......

Thanks Mo, I was going to run a permanent live from the fuse box and as you said I want to do this for a couple of other aux feeds so was going to use a separate fuse box in the battery compartment. but my electronic knowledge is limited although getting better, any recommendations on a good fuse unit to get? How would the ignition switch relay work? Wouldn't I need to feed that from an existing ignition switch live? Just for completeness I'll explain what I'm trying to do. I want to run 2x set of LED DLR lights and the LED HALO head lights. I need 2x ignition lives for both Halo these are currently run from the existing wiring on the right hand side as per the picture, they basically daisy Chain from the drivers side and over to the passenger side. The DLR's also have 2x ignition switch live as well as the need for 2 permant live which I've already run back to the battery box. But as you said it's going to be easier to use an extra fuse box in the battery compartment as it's going to get messy in their I suspect as I continue to want to add stuff. thanks Shorty PS - I've found this simple guide about fitting an auxiliary fuse box so got that covered now so just need to understand how I make the switched live circuit work as I imagine I can run the relay from this new auxiliary box. http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/10/auxillary-fusebox-install/

Another wiring related question..... I've managed to get hold of a wiring diagram for a 2012 truck so should be the same as mine I would have thought but I'm struggling to take the flat wiring diagram and relate it to the actual wiring on the truck. I was told that a switched live can be found at both the top right and top left of the engine bay in the two harnesses with grey connectors but I can't work out how I link these connectors to the wireing diagram. I was lucky enough to work out that a set of Halo lights had been wired up to the switch live on the right hand side but this is just a black wire... lucky I went looking as the fixing started to come apart so I've soldered that back together but don't really want to take another switch live off of that wire. So I wanted to identify which wire on the left hand side is the switched live... I had thought it might be a mirrored connector so I could just use the same wire layout from the right hand side.... but nothing is ever that easy... the left hand side has about half the amount of wires. am I missing something another manual that explains what these connectors do or which wires do what. ill upload the pictures of the connectors to give people a fighting chance of understanding what I'm on about :-) thanks in advance Shorty

I've used the MXS and it's working great... tried a couple of others over the years but this one seems up to the job so would recommend.

I've seen these guys on face book offering off cuts to help people out... might be worth a try Doncaster Trimmers 01302860631..... never used them my self but they get a lot of good reviews.

thanks all that makes a lot of sense now.

thanks Arjan, that really helps I think I'll do something similar as I've got a similar set of hight issues as you describe above. looks like you ahem your work cut out with all the building work. Good looking 110. Thanks for your help.

now your talking.. my father in law is dutch so he can translate also an architect so any drawing you have or pictures I'm sure he can work them out for me. thanks for your help.

Thanks Arjan that would really help. and your english is better than my French :-D

Thanks western, in that case its back to the work shop manual for torque settings.. thought it might be a quick way round.. but as you say looks like every set of bolts on the truck have different settings. Cheers shorty

I've looked on the web an on a number of LR sites but can't find any topic relating to the colours on top of the bolt heads in my Puma. I imagine they have something to do with Torque rating but wanted to see if anyone actually knows the reason for the colour. if the colours do relate to to torque ratings any idea which colour equates to which Torque rating? Thanks Shorty Yellow Bolts Green Bolts

Hi Arjan, not sure if this question is relevant for the general posts so excuse dragging up something from last year but your comments about building a work shop might save me some grey matter.... "Eventually, the workshop will be 14 x 9 x 4 mtrs - including a 4 poster ramp we'll partly sink in the floor for easier access to the engine bay etc...." I'm in the planning stage of a workshop and I want to put in a lift. But its the hight thats giving me a few issues I've got 4m at the ridge but you talked about sinking the lift for easier access... how did that work in reality? or did you just lover the floor between the lift so you could gain extra hight access under the truck... if so how far did you go down. Any suggestions you can give would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for all the advice, really helps a newbie to wiring like me..... I've piggbacked off the lighter, dumped the Scotch lock option and soldered them properly with an in line fuse.... for the short term but will put in a dedicated separate wire when I next run the cables from the battery box to the front dash... I'll need to run some wires when I put a sub in behind the central storage box anyway. Couple of questions what gauge wire would you all suggest running into the extra fuse box, and any recommendations for any fuse boxes that I can mount in the battery box? Ok this might sound like another stupid question... I understand that you have to earth circuit and I keep reading that this should be done on the body of the truck.. but does this need to be on a bare bit of metal with no paint on it? or is it worth me tracing the cable back from the battery neutral as that must be attached the truck at some point? Just to answer the question Peaklander asked... I've got a fan for the dog box in the back and thats runs from a lighter socket. and I use the USB in the radio front panel to charge the SAT NAV... so just wanted something extra for the iPhone :-)

thanks western. I'll go looking in mine.

Will the earth point on the later models be in the same area in the engine bay?

thanks I'll use 1.0mm and I'll give the soldering a go as you said its a more permeant fix and I need the practice as LED lights to do next. Yep I've found loads of wiring diagrams for the older models but none for the 63 plate trucks. The closest I can find is 2012 and I got the link form this site so might try and use that as it will at least give me a good starting point. going off topic for a moment what's the best place to get torque setting from? I've got the 1400 page manual that on here but was wondering will a Haynes manual have these kind of measurements in it as the other document is a real chore to try and go through to find the torque measurements. Thanks in advance.

Thanks Nick... really appreciate the help... its a later model and the power cuts off to the lighter socket the moment you turn the key off so it looks likes a live ignition feed on the later models as you say. So.... a question, can I use Scotch snap connections as its behind the dashboard rather than soldering or am I just asking for trouble and I should solder as a more permanent solution... you said you were looking at diagrams do you have a wiring diagram, for the later models? Also when you say 1mm Sq wire... could I get away with 16/0.20mm, 0.5mm2 which is rated at 11amps continues carrying capacity? Thanks Shorty