Froggie

March 21, 2010

Could it be the waste gate?

i have a NANOCOM connected and when the revs get to about 2500k (under load) the turbo pressure drops to zero.

The engine was a straight swap, we didnt touch the injectors. Would the ECU need updating when a new engine is put in.

March 17, 2010

Hi all

I've just put a new (well recon) engine in my Disco TD5 (2001) and it is as if it has a limiter fitted. I can accelerate fine up to 3000rpm or 60mph then there just is no guts left in it. Its baffleing me, all i can think of doing now is taking it to LR and getting the ECU checked out...

Any ideas?

Thanks

Steve

February 13, 2010

My TD5 disco decided to "sump" and is now in a pretty poor state, so we are going to try a rebuild, question is, dos anyone know a good source of parts, pistions, rings, injectors etc.

Can the injectors be reconditioned.

thanks

January 14, 2010

Everyone seems to be out of stock of AT2's, i hink I will have to settle for some £75 cheapy road tyres!!!!

January 13, 2010

Hi All.

Does anyone know where i can get any 255/55/18 All Terrain tyres...

Thanks

Steve

May 15, 2009

I have a similar problem, I only need to touch the accelarator and i get a sort of "farting" sound. Thats the best I can describe it. By tapping the accelarator you could play a tune.

May 15, 2009

I had exactly the same problem, and it was tottaly random. I got a spring replacement kit and took the air bags off.

April 20, 2009

sounds to me like the exhaust manifold is warped, and possilbly a sheared manifold bolt or 2. had same problem on mine. hth.
jon

I will check that, possibly done some damage while I have been off road, are manifolds expensive?

Steve

April 18, 2009

I was following an excellent tech sheet kindly sent from CIPX2, but as it was dark and raining i decided to omit one of the steps, which was "Check the earth tag".
Steve, any chance of a copy of the tech check sheet please?

Mine have come on and I have it booked in to be read next Thursday. unless I can fix them before.

Anyone bought one of the fault code readers from that guy in the states? I am tempted but it will only read the SLABS ecu not like a Rovacom.

cheers Spencer

Spencer

i will PM it now to you.

I got a NANOCOM and I think its and excellent peice of kit.

Steve

April 18, 2009

I have a 51 plate Discovery TD5 which is making a whistling & wining sound.

When I accelerate (even just touching the accelerator) there is a whistling sound coming from engine it also appears to be more noticable from inside the truck rather than outside.

Along with the whistling there is a sound that i can best describe as an off road motorcylce running on 1 cylinder (if they have more than one).

as the truck goes faster the noises are gradually drowned out by the "normal" sound of the engine, if I remember correctly the noises have gone by about 2500-3000 RPM.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Steve

April 8, 2009

The word "tag" doesn't show in the tech sheet. Can you be more specific, which of the earth connections you don't find?

You are correct it is called a ground stud C0561-1, I think I got confused with another job which appears to be an Earth problem

Would you know where C0362 is located, it just says it mentions LH side of Facia (Glove box i am presuming??)

Thanks

April 7, 2009

The matchstick was missing off the tools required. As I live 50 miles from the nearest shop, it would have been a nightmare!!!!

Othere than that excellent post!!

April 7, 2009

After losing the 3 Amigoes for about 6 months, they have finally returned and dont seem to want to leave anytime soon.

Without going in to everything I did to get rid of them previously, it might be easier to say what i didnt do......

I was following an excellent tech sheet kindly sent from CIPX2, but as it was dark and raining i decided to omit one of the steps, which was "Check the earth tag".

My question is does anyone know which is the earth tag for the ABS as there seems to be many of them!!!

Thanks

Steve

April 1, 2009

There was a lady (I suppose) that put a question on here but I don't think she ever came back to read the answers and never signed in since. She is what I call a "hit and run" user, these users ask a question and probably they even forget where they asked
So it's time to give the pics in that thread a useful meaning: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=30877

This is where i admit to not searching the forum before posting, I must get into the habit.

April 1, 2009

What does removing the EGR plate acomplish?

Does it improve performance?

April 1, 2009

Were the wires attached to controls for the stereo?
If the answer is no, i think you do not have rear ICE controls

No they were tie wrapped inside the rear panels, i could always attach cigar lighters to them!!!

Any other thoughts for their use??

April 1, 2009

I would guess the rear set ICE controls where fitted

Well I have loads of speakers and i had the CD changer etc, so would that mean i had ICE?

looking at the rave manual page 1554 (ICE System Component layout), it looks like I have that lot, must admit i havent noticed the radio headphone amplifier

April 1, 2009

i have 2 plugs, one each side, in the rear boot space of my disco TD5 (2001)

Any idea what they are for

and this is the location of one of them

April 1, 2009

Then I suggest to forget about it until the next occurrence of the problem. And if it will happen again try to see if you can replicate the event and tell us what you did and what happened.
As for how to tell which system you have it's pretty simple (depending on your neighbors though )

- honk the horn from the steering wheel and hear how it sounds like (I'm sure you know by now)

- lock the car and arm the alarm system the usual way using the fob

- unlock either front doors using the key (and open it if nothing happens when unlocking) > this will trigger the alarm

- note the sound that you'll hear:

* is it the same as the horn?

* is it different?

* is it different but you can still hear the horn mixed with a new sound?

Whichever the above questions will answer with a "Yes" will tell you which alarm system you have, in direct correspondence with my previous post.

Once I fix the drivers door lock I will try that!!!

April 1, 2009

First thing we need to say is that we're talking about a Discovery 2.
Second, is the horn still misbehaving or was it a one time event?

Third, you need to tell which configuration you have on the alarm system. Usually, we call "horn" the thing that makes noise and it's normally activated by the switches on the steering wheel and it's normally called a "siren"/"sounder"/"alarm sounder" the thing that makes noise when the alarm is triggered.

On Discovery 2 you may have the alarm system activating"

- the horn (there's no separate alarm sounder)

- a separate siren/sounder

- combination of both horn and sounder.

Which of the above systems is there on the vehicle?

With regards to which one Horn/Sounder I am unsure, however after taking the discovery 2 out, i put the fuse back in and the problem has gone away for now.

Problem solved (apparently)

April 1, 2009

I have been working on the disco recently (changing the fuel pump) and tottaly out of the blue the horn activated and stayed on constantly.

I say it came on out of the blue, I think it might have come on just as i opened a door.

I am not sure weather it is an alarm resseting problem or possibly the horn relay, as I have looked at the horn wiring diagram and there doesnt seem a lot to it other than the relay.

April 1, 2009

Then drive the heck out of it for a while and check for leaks and smoke after that.

All sorted, no leaks no smoke (well I couldnt see any)

Thanks again, and i have posted a quick post on how to test the fuel pump.

April 1, 2009

Glad you got it sorted. Wasn't that hard after all, was it?
1. I guess you're thinking to overcome the fact that you didn't change the seal? I would tight the ring about the same as it was before, 10-20% more at most. Don't put everything back yet, fill up the tank (until the petrol station pump clicks, not more) and drive it around for half hour or so. Then check for fuel leaks in the area. If no leaks the put everything back in place.

2. Drive it for a while, high speed or significant inclines, "pedal to the metal" where road conditions/traffic permit that and see if it still smokes. Or, in fewer words, do an "Italian tune-up" first.

I put a new seal on.

Not sure if i have tightend it up enough, it seems tight, but I still rock the pump a little, it is obviously flexing on the gasket.

I'd only just filled up when the bloody thing bust.