Froggie
-
Posts
86 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Froggie
-
-
Ah, those are the "clips" ... Yes, they come with the pump.
I thought you were talking about the ones on the hoses used for color coding - to know what hose goes where to the pump ...
Thank god for that, finally any idea about the horn problem do you think its related, maybe something to do with the alarm????!!! I'm clutching at straws.
If only I could jet reset it or turn it off!!!
-
I have attached a picture of the "Clip", it secures the pipe into the top of the fuel pump.
the two in the picture Blue and Black are OK, its the green one which i havent taken a picture of that is mangled. i notice on your picture these were not shown so maybe they come with the pump.
However my problems get worst after taking the pump out my horn is constantly one, and makes different tones if you open the doors. i have really upset the neighbours as it took me 20 mins to find a 13mm spanner to disconnect the battery. Surely this problem has nothing to do with removing the fuel pump
-
Unfortunately those kind of hose clips are not available separately. Or, better said, they don't show up in the parts catalog.
To buy one of those you have to buy the whole lot of 4 hoses, part# WJP108110
I see these options:
- get the corresponding hose (with clips) from a breakers yard
- buy the whole WJP108110 assembly from LR
- buy WJP108110 from a shop: here looks too cheap and here is another option
- just use an appropriate size regular adjustable quality clip hose (if there's enough room - you need to check that)
No pics this time
By the way, if you can take and post pictures on the whole operation, please do so. Might help others not familiar with these things.
Edit: managed to find a pic of the WJP108110 on a german site:
Can you post a close up picture of what's broken and how do the other clips look like?
-
Now my problems start, one of the pipes was solid in the pump. The pipes are secured into the pump by way of clips. There are
2 x black clips
1 x green clip
1 x blue clip
Its the green one thats the problem (but you probably did not need to know that)
The problem is that was damaged before i took it out, now it is virtually trashed, any ideas what they are called, do they have a part number and any ideas who will supply them, I am guessing a main stealer!!!!
-
The only problem is no one has one in stock so may have to reuse the old one !!!!
My next problem is removing the old pump, I dont have an LRT-19-009 tool and dont want to pay £200 for one. Someone mentioned taping the top of the pump with a hammer and chisel, I am presuming they mean the black cap that has some raised bits on the top of it.... why do I make things so complicated.
thats the one... hey you like your pictures !!! and i like the prices on that site very reasonable.
Thanks again for all your help
-
That's right. It's the seal between the pump and the tank, part # WGQ500020, pictured HERE < God, I love those guys for having such great pics. Never bought anything from them but I feel I need to contribute to their tea fund
The only problem is no one has one in stock so may have to reuse the old one !!!!
My next problem is removing the old pump, I dont have an LRT-19-009 tool and dont want to pay £200 for one. Someone mentioned taping the top of the pump with a hammer and chisel, I am presuming they mean the black cap that has some raised bits on the top of it.... why do I make things so complicated.
-
Here's what it says in the WS manual (I extracted only the relevant part). Note the recommendation to use a new seal.
I am a little confused,
point 19 says Remove and discard sealing ring. Is this the same sealing ring that in the refit section point 2 "Fit new Seal" refers to.
-
I am presuming you got it from the place with the photographs on..... god i hate having my picture taken.
Anyway i have opted for buying the genuine LR part £194 inc vat & delivery from a land rover dealer in exeter, no the fun part will be taking the old pump off.
I looked last night but it was dark, the clips, are they easy to get off, do they just pull or do you have to lever them off.
-
You can make 100% sure if you connect the pump directly to +12V and ground as above.
I strongly advise against a second hand pump. Better buy a non genuine (AllMakes) pump for £100 or so if you can't spend double for a genuine.
The antenna rotator is for turning a directional antenna. Widely used by radio amateurs (hamradio).
Edit: BogMonster, you're right, but make it past tense. I'm kind of retired from this hobby.
tottaly off topic and i expect a beating but, When the wife will allow, that is the sort of thing I would like currently I spend most of my time mobile I have a slim jim and G5RV on the house
-
I am 99.99999999999% certain it is the pump, but as i am not 100% and i cannot wait an extra day to buy a new one i am going to go to a breakers today and get a used one for £100, just incase it isnt the pump!!!
and before anyone says anything, my logic is screwed !!!!
by the way what do you use the antenna rotar system for?
-
I realized the mistake an hour ago when I tested an antenna rotator system which has a similar arrangement with an electric motor and a potentiometer. While measuring the motor the phrase I wrote last night sprang to my mind and I realized I wrote something wrong.
I am 99.99999999999% certain it is the pump, but as i am not 100% and i cannot wait an extra day to buy a new one i am going to go to a breakers today and get a used one for £100, just incase it isnt the pump!!!
and before anyone says anything, my logic is screwed !!!!
-
^^^ That is the phrase ^^^
It should have been:
- test for continuity between this later pin and the pin corresponding to the black wire (that goes to ground) - there should be a very small resistance if the motor is still ok > by the way it looks from previous posts, the pump will fail this test.
In other words:
- there's the WP wire that brings +12V to one side of the electric motor in the pump
- there's a black wire connecting the other side of the electric motor to ground
- you need to identify the pins on the pump corresponding to the WP and Black wire and, with the pump disconnected from the rest of electric circuit, test for continuity (very small resistance).
Don't worry for the other 2 wires/pins. They are for the fuel level potentiometer.
If you find that there's continuity between the pins on the pump corresponding to WP and Black wires then connect them to another, separate, wires to +12V (fused) and ground and see if the motor starts buzzing.
Sorry for the mistake
I think I actually did that, as that is how i found out about the 16ohm resistance on the other 2 pins
but i will check again
-
I'm afraid I made a little mistake in one of the test senteces above.
Still here and prepared for another measurement?
Fire away
-
Hi
Does anyone know if you can get head rests that have built in LCD screens for the rear passengers.
I would like to get a couple for my disco 2 TD5.
I really need to keep the kids entertained on those long journeys
Steve
-
OK here goes
11.50 Volts on the WP wire
No continuity between WP pin and ground
No resistance measurement tested between 200 ohms and 2M
The only resistance I got (why i did it I dont know) was 16ohms between the pins Green/Black & brown (on the pump)
Green/Black and brown 16ohms
I guess not, and I presume I should by the genuine LR part
-
OK here goes
11.50 Volts on the WP wire
No continuity between WP pin and ground
No resistance measurement tested between 200 ohms and 2M
The only resistance I got (why i did it I dont know) was 16ohms between the pins Green/Black & brown (on the pump)
Green/Black and brown 16ohms
-
Start from http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com and it will switch to another shop that doesn't list it no more. Better grab the phone and ask.
Then test the pump before buying a new one. It can be inspected, measured, set up to run from a bucket full of diesel etc.
Would you be able to explain how I can test it ? thanks
-
First of all try to see if you actually can find one. The suppliers I know they keep their websites up to date list only the genuine version.
If you find one I'd suggest to get it under the reserve of returning it back. See if it has a VDO marking on it. The Siemens VDO code (I don't thing it will be written on it) is 228-226-004-001Z and the EAN code is 4103590933768. If no markings on it, return it back. Although I never heard of another manufacturer making this pump.
These guys list both land rover and their own
http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/.../2001/8/107/891
But for the sake of £70 - £80 its probably best to go for a LR one.
My only concern is that i dont want to pay £200 if it turns out not to be the pump !!!!!
-
thats pretty decisive!!
-
As the title says, are the Discovery TD5 fuel pumps repairable.
thanks
-
No wonder it was £150 !!!
they forgot to give you the dash and steering wheel. LOL
Good luck
Steve
-
Does anyone have any experience of using the Allmakes fuel pump for a disco TD5 part no WFX000280
Its about half the price of the genuine land rover part, but not worth it if its going to give me twice as many problems.
Any thoughts anyone???
Steve
-
The filter may be full (though the fact no fuel came out the bottom doesn't look promising) but there is a difference between fuel presence and fuel pressure
Sometimes on a Td5 when the pump goes the engine will actually continue to run albeit with much reduced power/revs.
I guess the easiest thing to take off would be the fuel filter element and while I have never tried it, one would assume that fuel should p*** out at a prodigious rate when you put the ignition on if the pump is working and I suspect it won't. Usually if the pump is silent (or very noisy) we just change it because 99% of the time that is the problem.
I'm not sure about aftermarket pumps, it would be worth giving somebody like Bearmach a call to see if there are any OEM aftermarket pumps at a lower price, there probably are but we've only ever had the genuine ones at work, which make a nasty hole in a couple of hundred quid IIRC
Just taken the fuel filter off, and it is bone dry so no fuel is getting into it, looks like its the pump!!!
Thanks for all your help
Steve
-
At work what we use is a made up fitting, we remove the fuel temp sensor (near the back of the engine on RH side) and put it in there, its a screw in fitting but no idea what thread it is sorry. You should see 58psi while the pump is running, but if you can't hear anything at all I wouldn't bother messing around as the pump is almost certainly knackered.
You need to take the floor up in the boot (remove trim/carpet) and there is a hatch under the floor held in with self tapping screws, remove this for access to the pump. May be worth checking there is power to the pump but it is highly likely that it has just expired as they are prone to do after a few years. It isn't hard to change once you get to it, there is a special tool to get the big securing ring off but putting either a big flat blade screwdriver or a cold chisel onto the ridges around the edge of the ring and tapping it round gently with a small hammer works fine most of the time, once you get it loose it just unscrews. Probably the most difficult bit from then on is not tipping the contents of the swirl pot onto the carpet on the way out... and remember/note the order in which the four pipes go into the fittings as if you connect them up the wrong way round I don't think it will run very well
I think there is probably an article in the tech archive about doing it or try a search, pretty sure it has been covered before anyway. It shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours to change, taking the trim out is the worst bit.
Tel me about it, I have had to take half the interior out to get to the pump, i will check the power before removing it, however all the fuses are OK, I did find one that was blown, well at least my headlight washers are working again, and while the trim is off I can replace my reversing light bulb. LOL
Any ideas of the cost/best place to get a pump from.
One further question, as I have been turning it over a few times (oh and once grey smoke came out when it tried to fire), would it be worth taking the fuel filter off and seeing if it is full. I presume if it is full the pump is probably working. maybe there is something I can take off in the engine to see if fuel is pumping through.
Thanks
Steve
Allmakes TD5 Fuel pump
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I'll finish the post tomorrow with "ALL DONE ITS DRIVEABLE AGAIN" albiet with the horn blaring...... then I'll probably open another post if I still have the problem.