[Defender 110 TD5 2006]

It is the radius arm.... got a bit more play on the left than the right side

Would take it out and check if the total is still straight but as mentioned, you will need a lot of forces to get that bugger bent int total

Nice 110 and nice location, I'll be in Trinidad in mid June, POS & Point Lisas

[DRL lights - loom connection]

Ballock, thanks for the welcome, which I appreciate.

I fully agree with you, but fro time to time I see all the fancy Defenders driving with those lights all the time switch on, so curious if such are different in this case.

But assuming that they then always drive with partly light switch on and have the fancy LED truck lights where is already enough light to be visual in the end

I will wire them as indicated and see how it looks, thanks to you guys

[DRL lights - loom connection]

strange rule  

 

[DRL lights - loom connection]

Ah okay that fully understandable, means the normal position like the radio has when ignition in position 2 and as normal when all other units getting power = not 24 hrs power, only ignition power 

but would still mean that lights would go off when I switch on the normal head lights as per sentence on the module 

[DRL lights - loom connection]

Good evening

good a set of 2 pcs DRL lights for the front bumper from a friend.

have a question if someone has similar installed? Have a DRL Module included but here comes the question about the connection. What is the ACC? Why are the lights not working as written on the controller when they are connected there? Would like to have them working when normal lights are switch on. Any advise from your ends?

the “headlight” wire means that I would borrow the wire thief from the original headlights or from the smaller standby lights from the front? 

Sorry for such question, would be good to get your input how to solve these issues. 

 

 

[britpart heated seat kit]

perhaps then for the case of loss?!

you cannot make anything wrong if you put as well in the middle the double sided tape too for your exact location

[britpart heated seat kit]

Tim

those strips are for keeping the heating elements in position when you place everything in the seats

If you drop yourself in the seat, sometimes it will most likely try to move itself and not stay in the original position

[Rear chassis cross member replacement - from where?]

quick update here as I failed German MOT..... was then travelling for 2 weeks and gave it now for repairs during these 2 weeks

What they have done and I saw it this morning, they have cut the full length of the crossmember until shockabsorbers and rebuild it on their own. Got new MOT now

Looks really good and didn't costs as expected! 1000€ in TTL

Pictures will follow

[Rear chassis cross member replacement - from where?]

okay super, have asked and requested information i.e. price and possible delivery too

let's see if i am lucky now

[Rear chassis cross member replacement - from where?]

Thanks Paddy....

Tried again a few times this morning and they confiirmed that no overseas supply 😞

how much was it approx for the DDS stuff? They look great

 

[Rear chassis cross member replacement - from where?]

Western, right, page still working but that’s all it seems like. Will try to get a hold of him tomorrow again... 

[Rear chassis cross member replacement - from where?]

hey, a quick question here, is Dixon Fabrication still fabricating/online?

Tried to call = no answer, email = no answer, the facebook page is offline and the ebay store is empty

Wanted to know if they would ship to Germany too but no any response....

Any other good suggestion including the long extensions? Anyone an idea if someone is selling the single Dixon extension singly? 

 

[repair section doors]

Hey folks

have a short question as I cannot get any valuable feedback until now from suppliers, but looking for the top part repair section of the doors where the window starts and going upwards, second row door

It's a 110, 99, TD5

Can I take for example the bottom repair section and cut it in half in the middle to fit this? Anyone had this issue too?

Great to hear and have a weekend full of maintenance

[Defender 110 - C-pillar]

hey guys, I checked ont he weekend the pillar and tried everything to get the spot welds behind the side frame off, but no chance without taking it away.

So, did the same and cut only partly and inserted.... no any other chance in that case but that was the dangerous part for MOT in the coming month

Thanks to your support in this case, this weekend will do the other side too

 

[Defender 110 - C-pillar]

dumb iron is an issue with mine and I will rebuild them as they look really carp 😞

luckily I have a good guy at the German MOT station.... but for that I will most likely do a new topic when that is finished.... not buying the dumb irons from internet

[Defender 110 - C-pillar]

@sharp

right, I can imagine, that to get the spotwelds without removing the side panels is a hazzel....

otherwise I'll do the part cut/weld job like reb78 which is plausible too and as soon as we have the galvanized and steel structure together, no more rust   good joke...

Let me check and decide which way I have to take, anyway my way, is mostly the wrong way   

Have the dumb irons in the front to be done this weekend as well :-/ or partly renew

 

[Defender 110 - C-pillar]

hey western

yes right, the 2 bolts are known, only thing is, that YRM in the workshop side is explaining that this kind of C-pillar is spot welded to the vertical post which need to be drilled out, the thing is only that you most likely cannot reach the outer ones when the sideframe is still in place.... means actually, the sideframe is blocking the spot welds to be reached for removing, but that's now just a guestimate....

Let me see on the weekends when I find time to remove it and will post pictures how it went in the end

[Defender 110 - C-pillar]

yes right, that's yours

I am still not sure after the weekend to find the correct spot welds, but YRM messaged me that the space would be enough to reach the spots, most likely in an angle in this case....

anyhow, will try it and if not, door is closed for a longer period  

I will keep you posted and thanks a lot

[Defender 110 - C-pillar]

Morning gents

quick introduction from my end here, having a 110 from 99 and did already a lot of work to get the lady back on track after the ex owner did some rubbish with her over the past years.

Now starting to fix more and more on the chassis side like crossmembers, dumb irons etc and now like to do the the C-pillars. Parts from YRM I already received and just got a little question. Seen a few topics here where people exchanged part of them but not completly

Now the main question, do I need to take the side frame off for removing the spot welds or can I reach them without any issue?  Especially the top part of it. Picture is a sample, not mine directly, but looks similar  

hope someone from your could help me here out, highly appreciated

Mike