Davidpaul
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Posts posted by Davidpaul
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Hi, i've had a detroit truetrac diff in the rear axle of my early 90 for some time and thought i would put one in the front too, and omg the steering is awfull, i've just managed to get home 30mph max, shes torque steering like mad, even under normall driving, has anyone else fitted one of these diffs in the front ? its so bad it's going to be taken out unless someone knows whats going on.
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14 minutes ago, Sharp said:
Not sure if this helps or not but I recently replaced my steering box and lower steering column and still have about the same amount of play as you're describing with the engine on or off. Nothing I'm concerned about but all my running gear and ball joints are in good order and I assume it's either just the way it is or the upper steering column. I had someone rock the steering wheel with the wheels off the ground and me looking over all the joints and it was quite obvious there was play in the lower steering column before I changed it.
Ok thanks, I didn't know if it was just mine, she drives much better where the adjuster is at the moment, maybe I'm expecting too much from a 30year old land rover, just don't want to fit a new box if the small amount of play is normal. Although the play is harder to detect when the engine is running.
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Hello, my steering box is giving me some issues - If I adjust the screw to give little to no movement on the steering shaft, the screw is in quite deep and the steering very heavy and feels awful, if I back the screw out until the steering feels normal there's far to much play in the box to drive easily, so I started with too much play and have been turning the screw about a quarter of a turn in and test drive, I now have the steering where it feels normal to turn but when I turn the engine off and rock the steering wheel i have about 1/8 turn play, is this normal or is there wear elsewhere in the box ? all joints etc are good
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Thank you
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On 9/2/2020 at 9:21 AM, Davidpaul said:
Hello, next item - Automatic, I want/need to convert my 90 to auto, I have read the 200tdi isn't very good when fitted with a auto box, I also understand the 300tdi auto box is the same length as the manual but I'm not sure if that's the case with the 200tdi box.
Any help or info gladly received 😉
Thank you
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Does any one know if the 300tdi kick down brackets will fit a 200tdi pump
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2 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
I thought 200TDI auto pumps were the same, 300TDI auto pumps are definitely different, they have EDC, and more power.
I think you need the kickdown cable bracket for the pump as well?
Thank you
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I have found a 200tdi auto box with the rare mounting plate that bolts onto the back of the engine.
Does the 200tdi auto have a different injector pump, some one has suggested it's different ?
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6 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
Problem is the 200tdi auto is rare as hen's teeth.
I understand the actual gear box is the same as the 300tdi, it's a ZF4HP22, the rare piece is the mounting plate that attaches to the rear of the engine.
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On 8/7/2020 at 12:25 PM, Maverik said:
As title suggests,
I've recently noticed since installing the VGT turbo to my aged 200tdi, that there's a little more oil pull through into the air filter housing as per the standard factory set-up - I used to get some oil in the filter can top section with the original turbo, but since the normal operating inlet pressure is a fair bit higher now +1bar, I think it must be dragging more through from the crank case, I replaced the breather pot with the Ali sports one which hasn't helped either.
Short term I've just put the breather air outlet into a bottle with a perforated top section, and I had a mind of just installing a catch tank -
So having a bit of time to mull the problem over, I was thinking that the increased air flow from the higher inlet pressure was actually pulling the oil ladened blow by gas through the cyclone before it got chance to separate out.... so why not slow it down? - so then though why not just put an orifice into the breather gas/air pipe at the filter end... anyone any thoughts?
Mav
Can I ask what turbo you used please, i have a vgt here but i haven't fitted it yet, was there much improvement low down ?
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37 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
That's really good news
Tempted to try anything else, spring rate, for example?
May be another day, I'm happy with her at the moment, moving on to the next phase - automatic gearbox
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Hello, next item - Automatic, I want/need to convert my 90 to auto, I have read the 200tdi isn't very good when fitted with a auto box, I also understand the 300tdi auto box is the same length as the manual but I'm not sure if that's the case with the 200tdi box.
Any help or info gladly received 😉
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I have fitted the spax shocks and much less unwanted body movement, Currently they are set at 7 clicks on the rear and 3 on the front, which feels very good.
Thank you for all of your advice
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6 hours ago, Anderzander said:
In addition - I have vestibular balance issues too.... and also found the later model progressive (or dual rate) springs made the ride much more pleasant.
🙂My HD rears are dual rate, i have the std ones here if i need to put them back on
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Set of 4 spax adjustable shocks ordered, feeling optimistic
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20 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
What do you use the 90 for? IMO for a nicer ride I think as Bowie says some decent shocks. Adjustable ones from the likes of Fox or King mean they’re infinitely adjustable to get it riding just how you want it. Both the bump and rebound valving can be adjusted along with different oils etc. And at the money for the Koni Raid ones, I wouldn’t have thought the Fox/king are far off and IMO infinitely better as they’re totally customisable. I also think you’d be better off with standard non HD rear springs as well as they’ll make the back very harsh unless you’re carrying lots of weight. Even if you’re towing lots you shouldn’t need HD rear springs if the trailer is loaded right. I’d also say you’ll get a better ride on standard bushes.
I’d say try the decent shocks first, as they’ll be good no matter what and then play with the rest.
She's used for exploring Cornwall with my lads, towing my tractor and trailer, and towing a vintage trailer plough at vintage vehicle working days
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30 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
I'm sure they would be a huge improvement over stock, obviously not adjustable of course, but for that you pay double that, and maybe some more.
Koni heavy track shocks are adjustable but i think you have to take the shock off to adjust them, price £415 for a set of 4
Spax ajustable shocks are easy to adjust but cost nearly £600 for 4
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3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
That might be the wohle NVH thing of a Defender....
The Freelander is a lower slung vehicle, with and has suspension at least designed somewhere near the end of the century, rather than late 1960s. It will also brake better, stop better and be waaaaay more comfy. Progress....
That said, better shocks will certainly help the towing out on the 90. To be honest though, the 90s do always seems a bit pitchy to me, I prefer a longer wheelbase, which I assume your Freelander has as well, which again will help....
Shocks won't cure it, but will certainly control the body much better, and a more controlled body will certainly feel nicer to drive, and give the tyres a lot less work to do. You used to be able to buy shocks for passenger cars made just for people that tow a lot, so there must be something in it.
Avoid cheap stuff, they just won't last. Koni seem to get a good rep on here and other places, as do OME which are slightly cheaper. Avoid britpart, terrafirma, procomp, supergaz. It won't be cheap, but I suspect, given you have come here asking, you are keen to fix things, and in all likelihood it will be cheaper than a set of ARBs and the work required to fit.
What about these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-H-DUTY-OLD-MAN-EMU-NITROCHARGER-SHOCK-ABSORBER-SET/262163426599?hash=item3d0a286d27:g:YMUAAOSwDhxd3KxN
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34 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
Personally, I'm not sure that ARBs are going to fix that, that much for you, e.g. if you go into a hole on the left side, the truck will still lurch left. They only stop roll relative to the axle, so if the axle is on an off-slope, so will the truck be.
I suggest, you may want to look at some better dampers. When the axle drops away, the following movement of the body will then be properly damped, meaning you you get thrown around less violently. You could even get some adjustable ones, in which case you can tune for bump and rebound to your unique set of requirements, something that no standard shock is likely to get near.
The side effect here is that you will get better body control when you hit an obstacle right across the track as well, so it is a win, win situation.
My 2 penneth anyways.
Ok you've got my attention, so would this be why I can drive my Freelander 2 hundreds of miles with little problem, the Freelander also tows better, same trailer on my 90 and its pulling the 90 all over the place.
So I'm now thinking better shocks will help with the towing as well ?
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3 hours ago, Chicken Drumstick said:
What sort of balance issues are you referring too?
Most 90’s over the years didn’t have anti-roll bars. And with the right shocks/springs should handle well and not lean excessively.
Do you know what suspension is on the vehicle now and what condition it is? If it’s an old mismash or worn out parts. It’s probably worth refreshing them before looking at ARB’s. Can always post some photos up here to help ID parts for you
If you do go the ARB route, then factory fitted ones would be to the rear. You’ll need to check for the mounts on the axles though. As they normally aren’t present if it didn’t have an ARB from the factory. If you don’t have them you’ll need them welding on or sourcing an axle with them. Maybe from a Disco 1.
My balance, both of my balance organs were destroyed by a virus 20 years ago which has also left me with chronic fatigue both make driving my old truck challenging, we spend a lot of time exploring back roads which can be uneven to say the least, it's the rocking from side to side that get's me the worst, it isn't much but its enough to make things hard for me.
All the suspension is new polybush comfort bushes, std front springs with land rover heavy duty rear springs front and rear are std height and new std shocks
She doesn't have mounts front or rear so i will have to get some weld on brackets
There are a few companies making weld on brackets now for axle and chassis
YRM metal solutions is one
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Hi, my early 90 doesn't have anti roll bars, I'm finding the 90 a hard thing to drive due to my balance issues and the side to side roll on my 90, i want to try a anti roll bar but which end would be best to improve roll and steering sharpness ?
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HVO fuel, has anyone been using it in their older land rover ?
Detriot truetrac limited slip diff
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I've checked the part numbers on the box which are correct for a front one, the box also has "rover front" printed on the lable.
The steering box has given me problems for a while, when i first had her the steering was very heavy, two hands on the wheel to drive her, i couldn't keep the power steering pump belt tight enough to stop the belt slipping, anyway after a while i tried undoing the adjuster bolt and after a few tries i managed to get the steering to what felt normal but there's too much play in that position, but it was much better to drive.
After reading your replys i'm thinking it may be down to the worn steering box, i have a recon steering box on the way, and i'm also upgrading from a 6 bolt to a 4 bolt box.