Jessie the dog

Peter, thanks for the info. I spent some time last week with a very helpful guy at Paddocks (Robert) and we managed to establish that the studs that were used by the previous owner to replace the screw in ones, were undersized by 4mm. I have no idea where they came from, but I have bought a set of correct length studs and I am hopeful that they will resolve this issue. If not I will go to Zeus or use a single ended nut.

Hi there, were they 9/16”? I have seen 16mm (M16?) studs

Hi there, I have posed a similar question in another thread. I am in the same situation where I am replacing the original double ended stud on my 1959 S2. Its fine opening up the hole to accept a knock in or pull up stud, however there is a fundamental problem with that from what I can see. The original studs were 46mm long. The knock in type are 42mm long and then you have 4mm of shoulder, so net 38mm long. That doesn’t leave enough thread for a full nut. The answer is perhaps to counterbore the back of the hub, but that isn’t straightforward and would require hub removal and decent equipment. Given how easy everyone seems to be finding this swap, I think i must be missing something. Or is there a longer knock in stud available?

Hi there, i have just returned to this issue. As I get closer to getting on the road, i am more concerned about the security of the wheels! Anderzander was co Hi there, i have returned to this issue as I am getting close to getting on the road and frankly the wheels aren’t roadworthy at the moment. You are bang on the money with your assessment that i have the first type of hole and the second type of stud (mainly). The net effect is that the splined stud which isn’t countersunk, is 8mm too short. Solutions... I am unsure how I could counterbore the back of the hub. I’d rather not remove them all. Does anybody know if there a longer splined stud available, about 50mm. This must have cropped up before.

Hi all, I am moving into the electrics stage of getting my 1959 S2 onto the road. The car came with a box full of odds and sods and I am trying to make sense of what I have and what I need. Headlamps. They are a sealed unit so I have ordered some Lucas 553738 adapters so hopefully they will connect to the three pins. Sidelights & indicators - This is where it starts to get a bit more complicated. I have a selection of glass lenses. I assume the bulb holder is an earthed unit, so single wire. I am looking at new L488 bulb holders and rubber boots. Would these be correct for the car. As a couple of asides, the holes on the wing are vertical which suggests the wings have come off a military vehicle at some point? Also having tried a trial assembly, I push the glass dome into the rubber boot and then place the chrome over the lens. It falls off immediately. This wasn't done on the car. Is it as simple as that? Seems very loose for a LR... Rear lights. I have red glass lenses and red plastic lenses which are larger and have a couple of holes through them which allow them to be screwed to the bulb holder. The stop red lens must be dual brake and side light. Which is the correct assembly for my year? I cannot think why I'd have both... The bulb holder for the glass lens appears to be a L594 dual pole to accommodate the dual function of stop and side. Am I on the right tracks? Many thanks for your input.

Hi there, I took Steve B’s advice and searched for a S3 pipe. The only one I found looked like pipe 57 which is smooth tube on one end. From what I can see, I need a nut fitting either end. I have found swivel nut to hose tail push fittings for sale, so I think that I will have to make my own up with a 6mm I’d pipe. Are the ends 1/4” BSP, tank and pump? Thanks for the input

Hi there, can anyone help? My S2 has a very curious series of hoses which connect the fuel tank to the fuel pump. Looking at it, there seems to be a hose over the threaded part on the tank with a jubilee clip holding it. That cannot be right and probably the source of the fuel smell (petrol). I have seen images that show a pipe (no 56 on the attached picture) that looks more like it, but I cannot find it for sale anywhere. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

I am very happy to report some progress with the clutch. I tried WD40, time and driving but that didn't work but I took another look at the servo link and wound it out even further. Success. I have now changed from 1st, to 2nd and 3rd for the first time, all without starting in gear! Thanks for your help. Next job is to sort the brakes which are completely useless. All new linings, cylinders and lines. All bled, but nothing at the pedal. I suspect the adjusters need setting. I am also going to post a line on fuel pipes. The pipe from fuel tank to pump seems to be a series of hoses all connected using jubilee clips There is a leak with a smell (no sign) of fuel. I believe that there should be a specific pipe with nut and ferule type ends, however I cannot find one for sale anywhere. Any ideas?

All, i am non the wiser about refitting my studs. The term knock in suggests you hammer or better still press them into place. I just cannot see that with mine as the thread in the hub matches the thread on the stud so it will never knock through. Even screwing them in to the end of the thread leave almost a full thread engaged before the splines. Am in being a little thick here? Is it possible the ones fitted are fully threaded? I am not sure why I would have some many with the thread and splines.

Hi both, thanks for your input. On the basis of a photo being worth a thousand, i have take a few. I just cannot see how they were inserted originally. The thread in the hub is the same as the stud, so one cannot pass through the other without being screwed in. The shoulder is about 0.9mm interference fit to the thread.

David & one and two, thanks for your thoughts and suggestions, very much appreciated and to those who have posted earlier. I am coming to the conclusion that my troubles are greater than setup and air in the system.... It seem my options fall down the shock the seized parts free route or open car surgery (which I would dearly like to avoid). I am blessed with a very large garden (a run of 200’) so I can do start/stops etc. I know lubricants and the clutch should be avoided, but is there some targeted WD40 application that might help with the first option?

Hi there, I tried bleeding the system again, but no success. Back bleeding was very messy and not a good result. Regular bleeding using a pressurised system worked with good incompressible feel to the pedal afterwards. In truth no different than before. Any other ideas?

I have recently bought a S2 and all of the wheel hubs are missing one or more studs. I have them, not sure why they were removed. I am totally puzzled as to how I should fit them. They are threaded and have a rough spline at the shoulder.. I have screwed them in the extent of the thread, but it seems impossible to then ‘knock’ them onto the splined shoulder which is roughly the same diameter as the thread. Hope that was clear, any advice?

Thanks for confirming the cylinders/pipe work - the manuals seemed quite vague. I will have another go at bleeding the system. I will also try back bleeding and I am using a pressurised bleeding system which seems very effective.

The fluid level doesn’t appear to change on either down or up stroke, perhaps a twitch at the beginning and end of the stroke I took the cover off the pedal box and tried adjusting the two nuts which didn’t seem to make any difference. One issue I had when fitting the pipes was that the brake and master cylinder seemed to be in the wrong places and also didn’t match up to the fittings that I bought. I swapped them around to what is shown in this picture.

Hi there, yes I can start in any gear with the clutch down and the vehicle stays where it is. There is a small jolt as it fires up but otherwise stationary until I let the clutch out and off we go. I should add that it is almost impossible to push the LR out of gear/engine off. An unrelated issue I think, to do with the brakes being new and not setup yet.

Steve, it does appear largely original. The engine and gearbox both seem, from the serial numbers, to be original too. I have uploaded a video of the clutch slave. The linkage and pins seem fine and hopefully you can see the pedal moving at the same time. Not sure if it provides any more clues IMG_1516.MOV

So normally I’d be double declutching to select 1 & 2? I’ve read about it, but never had a vehicle without synchromesh before. I have tried pressing the club=tech in a few times, but still grinds on 1, 2 & R. 3 & 4 seem to work as does starting it in gear. I haven’t tried to change gear whilst moving.

Hi there, thanks for your comments. Yes, I mean at the end of the push rod, roughly 7mm of movement. I have bled and bled the system. I used a pressurised system connected to the reservoir. It seemed to be effective. I did read about back flushing, but that seems to be for later models? The semi flexible hose is new as is the slave and master. Yes, reverse crunches too. Ref photo’s - I will be happy to. Let me find some.

Hi there, thanks for your response. It hasn’t been driven for circa 8 years until last week. I did wonder about the stuck clutch plate and tried shocking it with a start in 3rd gear which I had read about. I have a new dent in the wing now following a high speed exit from the garage! If it were stuck, how can I now start in gear and then pull away under control? I cannot work that out. The hydraulic function feels right. There is the loose play and then pretty solid along with movement of the slave.

Hi there, I have recently bought a Series 2 that is part way restored, my first and I have been getting it ready to run. I have a problem with the clutch - I cannot seem to engage gears 1 or 2 with the engine running - lots of grinding! I can start the engine with any gear selected and pull away in a reasonable manner. I have bled the hydraulics, adjusted pedal height and also slave with no resolution. I can see the clutch lever moving about 7mm. Any suggestions would be gratefully received.