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rope runner

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Posts posted by rope runner

  1. Hi im guessing this is probably EFI as you havent said . I have had this a couple of times with v8s when they have only been run for a couple of minutes and not reached running temp the prob could be the plugs flooded up .Take them out and give them a good clean and dry out.

  2. I converted a set of old arms to take these bushes and after 2 years and probably 8-10 events, they are still in perfect condition. As far as I'm concerned, they're evirtually fit and forget, unlike the axle end bushes which need replacing every couple of events. Highly recommended!

    Toby

    Hopefully by fitting the complete arms the axle end bushes being bigger i might not have to change them so often

  3. Hi,

    Nice job.

    What is the bush on the chassis end? It lloks like a spherical bush but is it made of rubber and fixed or does it move?

    The reason I ask is that if it is a fixed rubber type bush how does it move up and down. Presumably the steel center tube is pinched between the chassis and the side plate otherwise the bolt would wear out. If it is solid rubber then surely the movement is restricted or the bush will start to tear?

    I was offered a set of chassis bits with the Disco 2 mountings on at Sodbury (Newbury)four bits at £80 the lot, I decided not to buy them!

    Cheers,

    Marc.

    Hi the bush is made of rubber and it is fixed but is very flexable ,i clamped the bush in a vice as tight as i could and marked its position in relation to the vice .I then measured its movement up and down and it flexed 24 inches up and 24 inches down from horizontal before it started to twist in the vice if i could have clamped it tighter im sure it would have flexed some more . I originally thought the same ,that it would be to rigid and was going to see if poly bushes were available to allow more flex , but for now i think i will stick with the original bushes and see how it goes . Aparrently some of the safari racers are now useing these arms on there racers .

    cheers

    Richard

  4. Morning,

    I was thinking of giving disco 2 front arms a try on my hybrid. But unfortunately i don't have access to one to go and measure up, so can anyone tell me the overall length.

    And what shape is the axle end ? Will the arms fit onto a 90 axle, or ???

    Anyone got a picture of how they mount onto a disco chassis ?

    Sorry for the vague post.... :D

    Cheers

    Gordon

    Hi im doing this conversion on my build at moment . length from centre of rear hole in centre of bush to centre of front bush is 39.5 inches. Have added some pictures of mine which is a rangie chasis .My mounts do cover where the normal gearbox mounting bolt holes are though .Hope this helps newtruck001.jpg

    newtruck002.jpg

    newtruck003.jpg

    newtruck004.jpg

    newtruck005.jpg

    newtruck006.jpg

    newtruck008.jpg

  5. Had this problem once before ,all that stops the pedal comming right up is a little piece off plastic which has snaped off when you get the new one you will see what i mean . There was nothing wrong with the hydraulics on the one i replaced , just good old landrover build quality . if it had been mine and and not a customers i would have just made a little bracket up to hold the pedal down in its normal position

  6. 2.25 Diesel is the only sensible option, if you run the numbers:

    Cost to buy: £0

    Reliability: Good

    MPG: Good (and you can run on veg oil, margarine, mud, sticks, etc.)

    Choice of gearbox: Anything LR 4-pot

    Likelihood of breaking drivetrain components: 0

    Likelihood of speeding ticket: 0

    Ease of maintenance: Good

    Cost of parts: Very low

    Insurance: Cheap

    On the BHP/£ calculations it achieves approximately infinite value, which is pretty hard to beat. It loses out on the BHP/Kg a tad but the rest of the numbers are strong.

    [/u special stages are done with a stopwatch though not a calender ! :lol::lol::lol:

  7. If this is only happening in "D" when stopped it could be a wire shorting to earth in "D" when stopped with the handbrake on the engine will tip slightly under the load and perhaps the oil light wire is shorting to earth . Try connecting a 12v light bulb between battery + and oil pressure switch then run the engine and see if the ight goes out if it does it sounds like the problem is in the wiring

  8. Try useing angle grinder or something like a dremil grinder and grind the housing away down the side of the bolts untill you get to the bolt . This will realease some of the housings grip on the bolts also the build up of heat helps as well . try not to get too close to the head though . You will then still have the full length of the bolts to grip on to get them out. Another option might be to use a centre punch on the housing down the sides of the bolts this sometimes spreads the housing enough to realease it .

  9. Good idea Fender, are they easy enough to change (i've never opend up a BW transfer box before)? Give me a shout when you've taken yours out and maybe we can arrange some way for me to get it from you....

    Also i'm not 100% sure I have a BW T-box (having always owned defenders i'm new to RR), can anyone identify this t-box?:

    Cheers

    Tom

    HI the transfer box you've got is a schuler ferguson . It has got a viscous coupling inside the housing between the handbrake drum and the main transfer box housing . I had the same problem with one a few years ago ,i think i welded some planet gears inside which gave it permanent difflock

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