Colibri Brown

Sorry 2 inch is 50.8 millimeters

With the A posts not being as fat as say a modern car say a Astra the the double pod may well over lap the front glass or the door. Standard gauges are about 13mm / 2" I plan to mount mine flush with the dash upper right from the heating controls, I will run new wire for the gauge but machine a T piece and keep the old sender in place and transfer print the word FUN on the middle of the white part, then when ever I go over a big bump the fun needle will show it.

That is the very thing I plan to do, I have ordered this from Ebay. Digtal Water Temp Gauge

It is funny, I can turn on the Ignition with the engine cold not even started for a week and the temperature gauge on the dash and it will go off the end! remember this is with the engine not running and cold. I changed the sender but still it happens, I know I have a ground some where but with out pulling out half the wires and the dash I can not find it. Also it only happens if I go over a bump and if I go over a second bump it goes, that makes it very hard to find. So I am thinking of replacing it. Had a look at the one in Halfords but the sender looked far to small. Any one has any ideas? Electronic or Digital would be better then Analogue

Thanks Paul, one day when I win the lotto and have the workshop and the tools I will build my own. Watch this space

If this was the same question on a Mini then I would be dishing out the advice. My back ground is in electronics, auto electronics, panel beating and general machanics. I am happy with brake bleeding and as I say have replaced and upgraded any part of a Mini brake system you can name. buy that was in a garage and you can just close the door if the job gets in trouble. But as I have said in my other post working in a parking space in the cold and wet is not easy. Also if any one wants the kit for what I paid for it before I return it give me a shout, it is standard hight and was £80

Also I should have said that at this time I am low on both time and money, So the garage option flies out the window at £65 +VAT per hour and the "Bu99er it Moments" scare me stiff I know from the start that my Jack and axle stands could do with being replaced, before working under "HIM" with the cost of any extra things and the wet cold weather coming in I think I will get a refund on them. Or if there is any one with a warm big garage, with a lift and spare brakes parts near me then please put your hand up!

I know that Defenders are work horses and they are damn fine at the job and manual fits the bill well. But i would like a Defender with a Auto box? I know and understand that with the Land Rover models that you could fit an Auto box to a Defender but did they ever make one? and if so where can you find them?

I got a stainless steel brake hose kit for my RR last week, But when doing the brake bleeding and looking at the standard hoses they are well "ON 19 years in the same place" and and speaking with some one else to day about fitting them and how things could go bad, like damage to the fixed lines and so on. I am now getting cold feet, I have a good range of tools but only have a parking space to work in, and with the rear line I have no idea how I could get at it. I don't want to pay out for my garage to fit them. Oh how I dream of a full work shop with the wheels off the ground lift, I am sure I could do it then, If any one has fitted this kind of kit, any help about it would be great.

Exposed door hinges were hidden in the first half of the model year (after VIN KA374641) The hinges were still exposed on 1989's built 1/89 (VIN KA370371) but hidden on 1989's built 2/89 All models with hidden hinges have deeper black plastic under body sills. Models with hidden hinges have different fenders/wings (part #MXC1408&9) cowl panel (part #MXC8057)

I already have two Haynes Manuals for the Range Rover, I am thinking of getting the, Range Rover Workshop Manual: 1986-89 (Brooklands Books Ltd) £59.49 Or have seen a manual on DVD on Ebay, but this does look a little bit of a scan poor copy? Is there any thing else? I would like a paper copy more then having to fire up the PC.

At last, I spent 4 hours in the rain bleeding the brakes to day in the right order, The wife and I got both soaked through to the skin. The pedal is now firm, have not been for a test drive will do that midweek.

Once had the same kind of problem on my Classic, sitting in traffic the engine started torun rough, all the was needed was the idle speed adjusted. What RPM does it read as it is happening?

Thanks steve, that is how I was going to do it. The Ezee bleed is now in the bin, because the top started leaking air then I sealed that with PTFE tape, then the connector to the tyre the hose flew off cabe tie that back on. and last thing was the top poped off and sparyed brake fluid over the engine. I was using 16 PSI from a old Mini tyre.

Your brake pads could be down to the metal and turning on the light, or you could be low on brake fluid. As you say the brakes are pulling to one side what could have happen is the level has droped to much in the master reservoir and air has got in to the system. or you could have a leak some where else. check all Lines, hoses. levels and if there is any meat on the pads still.