[Military ID plate]

I don't suppose there exists anywhere a cross reference of the VIN to Military contract number, is there? The original military plate was removed previous to me and I'd like to restore it if possible. The subject vehicle is a 1986 Defender 110, 3 door, soft top, 2.5L diesel. I've got the VIN from the front right chassis stamp.

[What alternator is this?]

Sorry for multiple responses, I think slowly in the morning.  The parts manual for the '91 version of the ex-MoD 110 shows the alternator to be "A127/65".  My guess is that it's a 65 amp alternator. The engine in the truck is the standard normally aspirated 2.5L diesel.

Hope that helps.

[What alternator is this?]

This is a picture of mine...

[What alternator is this?]

^{Lucas A127.  It's the same as the one on my '86 ex=MoD 110.}

[headlight replacement]

Yes, of course, no lights. That's the light switch position clockwise. Silly me.

I've not seen the push-twist head light before.  It's a good system, do you recall what cars used it? I've had Minis, MGs, Jaguars, Land Rovers all with 7" lights.

I stand corrected and apologize.  British Army.  But then what do we know here? I don't even know how to shift this thing with my left hand.

Thanks for the help.

[headlight replacement]

Brilliant! Push in and rotate it is. CCW rotation.  Of course.  In the Royal Army the chaps can't be bothered with messing with little screws that fix the reflector in place.  They spare the entire assembly so when an errant rock or sniper shot renders the headlight unservicable it can be replaced on the fly with a push and twist.  Very nice.

[headlight replacement]

Okay, I give up.  I have a ex MoD 110, around 1986 I think, with RH steering and I've not yet changed the headlights over to LH steering for the US. I can't see how to get the things out of the car.  There is a black ring, the parts manual calls it a "ring, mask" that in is the way of the screws that hold the headlight in place.  there are a number of screws that are attached to this ring, none of which seem to hold it in place.  The three on the face must be to hold perhaps the "mask" in place, then 3 others that don't seem to do anything at all. they screw into separate bosses that don't seem to be  attached to anything.

How does this thing come apart?

 

[Fuel light always on]

And so now 5 years later continued.....

Obviously not a pressing issue, but the last post is correct.  The small circuit is embedded in the harness so not intended to be a serviceable item.  In any case there does not seem to be a replacement source.  I'd call that a limited sense of humor.  The device in my '93 110 seems to have failed, but it suffers from visible corrosion on some of the traces so I may be able to clean it up and perhaps recover operation.  However, I removed it from the harness and inserted a 4-pin connector.  If I get it to work I'll be able to plug it in and motor on. 

If I can't get it to work, I did some measuring, extrapolated the data and determined that the the resistance from the tank sender goes from 10 ohm at full to 85 ohm at the top of the reserve line, and to 103 ohm at empty.  So I'm thinking that an appropriate low fuel light would be about 90 ohm.  I found a photo cell operated switch (the photo cell provides a changing resistance from dark to light) that can be set to trip at 90 ohm.  I should be able to replace the factory circuit board with this device, using the fuel level resistance to replace the photocell resistance and regain low fuel light function.  I've been playing around with this for a couple of years now (yes, not a priority in life) but if I get it to work I'll post more information on the modification.