mart010

Yes! Still busy and the build keeps going in the right direction. I’ve switched the turbo pipes to the correct inlets. Happy with that switch and was easy to do. Got some luck there 😅. I’ve reinstalled the dashboard. It’s not wrapped with new vinyl yet. I wait until I know for sure I don’t need some extra gages or other equipment. The electrics are sorted. Took some time to wrap my head around. But now I know how it works. The defender 200tdi is connected to the original ignition key. It has the 200tdi starter relais installed and the fuel is not shut off when you turn the key for starting. Works perfect! I got help with that setup. most of the lightning has been switched to LED. Headlights are H4. Put relais in between. So they run straight from the battery. Installed new wiring for the turnlights, parking lights, horn and headlights. All is switched from 24v to 12v. In hindsight. I think now it’s better to keep the 24v. as you can see I’ve installed the front. Now I’m building some plastic inner wheel arches. I’ve bought some big truck mudguards that have a nice curve and fitting width. Have to make them exactly fit for the series though. Try to do that this week. The bulkhead in the engine bay has been covered with chinese heating reflecting material. The turbo is wrapped. The bonnet has sound dampening material. Good quality. I had trouble getting the brakes working. At the end I’ve installed a new master cylinder. That did the trick. The brakes feels good now. Same with the clutch. Installed new parts and works. I hope to finish the engine bay this month. Other thing I’m doing is fixing the up the cabin. First install everything back, get through MOT. See how she runs. And after that I’ll see what needs to be done to get her comfy. oh yeah. Screen washer, wiper motor and wipers have been fixed. The heating of the cabin works. the diesel tanks got really messed up by the previous owner. I’ve cleaned hem inside out. Checked all pipes and got them runnig again. Changed the electrics. Works. the next big thing will be transforming her to a nice camper/overlander. I love to have a pop-up roof. One that uses the original roof. Also that you cannot see it’s altered. But this will be work for year 2025 😂. I’ve just made some drawings for the interior. Hope to finish this before july so we can go for a tour to the north. the light blue block on the side are drawers (both sides). The light blue on the inside is a frigde. The yellow is the bed. That had been transformed parts to a small couch on the drawing. Daytine setup. Purple are cubboards. Under the bed will also be big storage area. Yellow on the left is kitchen area. Also possible to slide outwards to the back. Water tank will be inside or outside installed. Have to check. Small boiler that’s connected to the engine will be installed. Solar panels and good electrics. Cooking probably on gas. Not induction. I’ve made a digital series ambulance in sketchup. If somebody wants the Sketchup model. Let me know. I can sent you the file. It’s a rough sketch but works. and last, happy newyear! Hope you all get a nice 2024.

Thanks for the repies! I’ve checked all the pipes and filters. They’re not blocked. I used a brake suction device to fill all the lines and filters with diesel. That helped a lot to get the lift pump up and running. Fingers crossed.

Can you point me in the right direction? What electric pump can I use?

The lever has zero to none suction. When I detach the lift pump and try the lever I can feel some suction. But it’s not strong.

Hello, I think the lift pump is not functioning properly on the Defender 200tdi engine. No diesel is sucked up from the tank by the lift pump. I ordered a new one, but that didn't work either. Chance that I ordered the wrong version? I ordered parts number STC1190. What I tested is the following. - engine running with old pump, no diesel was pumped up - new lift pump installed, no difference - with a new lift pump, checked whether there is suction on the line that runs to the lift pump. I feel nothing. - looked at whether a spacer should be put in between, but it doesn't seem like it. On the block you will see a metal one installed. What can it be?

New parts

Update. The parts inside the master brake cylinder got stuck again. The new master cylinder and brake servo arrived just in time. Installed all parts and bled the lines. Perfect for now.

Ok, did the honing. Smooth surface now. Also did the sides of the metal parts that go into the tube. Will see how it works after some time. will keep the new parts on the shelf for now

Hi, ordered a new master cylinder today. I’ve tried to get the old one running. Did renew the inside callipers and springs. But my job was not a good one. Everytime I tried to bleed my lines, after some time, the new calipers got stuck in the metal casing. My bad. So, ordered a new one today. Just out of curiosity, anybody know how to make an old, bit rusty, cylinder running again? What tools can be used to make the the wall on the inside smooth enough? thanks!

as promised a video of the first start. LR-ambulance-first-start.mp4

Yesterday I’ve got the 200tdi wired into the series 3 military. That was not easy. For me , got good help to sort the wiring out and make sure it’s wired properly. What I’m most proud of is that it uses the original ignition switch. No starter button is needed or other extra gizmos. Just the standard diesel series 3 switch with a bridged relais. Works like a charm. Super cool to start the engine with the key. the video I’ve made of the fist run is to big to post here. I’ll make it smaller and upload later on.

Thanx for the input so far. I found somebody to help me. When it’s done I’ll let you know. Fingers crossed 🤞🏻. Hopefully I get the Lando running early this summer.

Well, turns out that cutting corners is not the way forward. I’ve got the tanks clean but started rusting again pritty quick. I put some diesel in to stop the rust process. No good solution for the long run I guess. Ok, your anodising steps are noted Ped. Need to do that to get a better result. Above picture is after using caustic soda and rust converter. Looks nice and clean. this is 12 hours later. After this I put some diesel in hoping to stop the rust process. State the tank is in right now. I bought an extra diesel filter to install after the tanks. Just to be sure. Or maybe I will buy new tanks to get going and try ALL the steps again, including anodizing.

Yes I need to find someone who can help me draw that part of the scheme. Maybe pay’d if somebody is willing to help me out.

I’ve got the timer relay. Can I use that one instead of the normal big relay? The original diesel switch I still have.

Nope don’t understand it yet. so I’m having a 200tdi Timer Glow Plug and a petrol ignition switch. How correctly do the setup in the series 3?

ok, found it. thanks!

Or is this series 3 starter solenoid also possible to use?

Hello, Connecting the 200tdi into the Series 3 is difficult. I've found the setup on Expedition Land Rover (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/200tdiwiring.htm) I've bought the 200tdi Timer Glow Plug and a petrol ignition switch. First question: What Starter Relay do I need (Number 4 in the drawing)? Can somebody give me a link to the correct article?

Hi, I've orderend Rustbuster to get the last rust out. After that I'm leaving the inside as is. The outside has been coated with RX5 and RX10. Looks neat. Almost ready to reinstall, rewire and try out with diesel. Thanks for the help so far.

Hello Ped, thanks for your answer. Lot of steps to undertake. Not sure if I want to do that. The caustic worked very nice. Some rust at the top of the tank I need to redo. Rest is almost clean.

Hi Gazzar, to anodise. Is that simultaneously with cleaning or after? And how exactly?

Hi Steve, thanks for your respond. What is the best treat to get rid of SVO? I also got advise to use caustic soda. Would that be possible? Or will I harm the inside of the tanks using caustic soda.

Hi everybody! Got a new issue with my series 3 military 109 lwb. The diesel tanks are pretty dirty. I removed both diesel tanks from the car. Checked the pipes and repaired the switch piece to switch between both tanks. The tanks are pretty dirty inside. I still want to see if I can clean them. Both tanks still contained about 20 liters of old diesel or something similar. I don't know exactly what was in it. What I took out was liquid, but also with a thick black slurry. That black slurry is almost hardened on the rim and a thick viscous layer on the floor of the tank up to the height where the liquid has been. Is not fully cured and smells very strongly of linseed oil or something. Not so much diesel. I have tried to dissolve the liquid with fresh diesel and small pebbles. It does not work. I have tried parts to soak with gasoline left for 3 weeks. That seems to help a bit. But the vast majority is partly so hard that it will not work in this way. This is what the inside looks like. The 'yellow' liquid is the new pebbled diesel. It is therefore about the black edge, which is also below the diesel on the bottom. You can see rust at the top of the tank. See the picture of the inside of the cap. I expect to clean it with steel wool. Does anybody know how I can clean the inside of the fuel tanks. Thanks in advance!!

Small update. I've stripped both top and bottom dash. Stripped the vinyl off with a heating gun. After that gently stripped the foam so I can re-use it. I repaired the metal parts and made some new ones. Glued the foam back. For the missing faam parts I used polyurethane foam. And finished it off with some Putty bumper repair. This to make it smooth and stronger. The Putty bumper repair stays flexible. I did not yet finish both parts with the new vinyl. I want to make sure that I can put new switches or other stuff into the dash, before final finish. So far, looking good. I'll post some more pictures of the parts with foam back on. The pictures shown below are only the metal fabrication.