[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

You can is the cam picture how much the vacuum pump beats on the cam shaft when it’s running . I did hear of early 300,s having cam shaft breakage under warranty.

i also wonder how much quieter the engine would be if the vacuum pump was replaced with a electric unit and have a blanking plate made to cover the hole where the mechanical pump was installed . 
 

I checked with my local junk yard and my buddy can get me a BMW one for $100.00 with all the switches and hoses but I have to remove it . I would rather do it myself that way I know I will get everything and have no hacking and slashing of wires and hoses . 
 

 

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

Again sorry everyone for all the extra pictures of brake pistons I was still on my first cup and trying to figure out this IPad.

my truck is a 1990 from france and did not come with power brakes only vacuum type. My truck also came with a VM 2.5 so it had its own separate vacuum pump . The power brake option came to Canada ONLY on the five door with a V8 auto . The only two door RRC came with the vacuum system and they stopped importing them I think in the early 80,s because of emissions . I have a P38 here I can swap over the power braking system but I think the hassles is too great and I would have to do the whole ABS thing which is also a pain . Simple is best . 

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

Sorry for all the extra piston pictures lol I’m still on my first cup of gogo juice lol

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

Here is a pic of the vacuum pump on the 300 I’m working on . The vacuum pump lobe looks like it’s ready to break is also chipped .

 

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

Thanks for all the advise everyone .

i have to go to the junk yard today for some EEP parts lol.

here are a cpl of pictures of the vacuum booster I have .

aparently my booster is from the 70/80,s. 2 door only which I have .

they must have used all the early series 1 RRC parts till they ran out .

my.  Truck was also imported from France so that could some bearing on it as well.

the rebuild kit is a really good price . The hard part will be to find one but I’ll do a vacuum test before I go buying lol.

I think this mean I might be able to install the electric vacuum motor instead of hearing the 300 beating the vacuum pump to death . It should be a little quieter as well .i can make a blanking plate for,the factor vacuum pump and just install the electric. 
 

kevin my old army buddy can help me find one no problem and I’ll get a good price seeings how there are found old D1,s I sent out his way lol

 

here are some pics. The cam shaft is a real mess and glad it’s being replaced with a new gen one .

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

My mistake must have been me thinking the disco1 master would would be able to push the same amount as the old 110 master 

I changed it back to the three port disco1 and put a T junction on the back brakes and calling it good . 
the new system will be a proper 110 master and a RRC booster because the 110 will bolt directly to the booster 🤞. The booster on the RRC two door is huge .

ADVISE. Would it be worth it to put the electric vacuum pump on a 300 Tdi ? 
 

the engine I’m building now a 300 had a cracked cam shaft when I took it out . It was cracked on the vacuum pump lobe. I ordered a new one and all the followers .

Do you think the engine would run a little quieter with out the vacuum pump banging off the cam? 
would the electric vacuum pump last as long as a factory 300 pump? 

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

Hi all and Todd

thats nice work there my friend . Let me ask you a question about your set up.

i tried this set up on my D1 with defender 110 front calipers and disco 1 master cylinder with D1 rear calipers.

The brakes worked very well except I felt like I was driving a series where you had to pump the brake peddle twice to get a good peddle .

what I found out was the D1 master cylinder did not have enough fluid column being pushed to the calipers.

the brake peddle would bottom out and it took a second pump to get a good hard peddle that would stop the truck .

what I found out was the D1 master cylinder could not push enough fluid to get the brakes to work properly.

I replaced the master cylinder with a TRW defender master cylinder they worked very well even when in low range off roading .

i used to have to put the trucks tranny into neutral in order to get the truck to stop . The truck would just push through any amount of brake peddle I could push.and have the engine power push the truck forward if it was I drive . 
the proper defender master cylinder was able to push enough fluid to all the calipers to stop the truck off-roading .

the bigger master has a much bigger reservoir and pushes the proper amount of fluid thus helping with stoping the truck.

on my last series I used Toyota FJ 40 axles with front disc and rear drum brakes. 
the master was a GM K series 1ton version. 
I only did two things to get it to work perfect

1. I had to oval the mounting holes on the master cylinder 

2. I had to lengthen the push rod out further so it had the 1/16 inch clearance between the push rod and the back of the master cylinder piston.

other than that they worked very well.

on another note you would not know where I can find the spacers and rubbers that go between the two halves of the front caliper . I have a few calipers for my classic I need to rebuild and need there spacers.The spacer and a rubber to allow the fluid to flow from one half to the other half of each caliper ? 
 

Tony

[Duel fuel spark plug heat range]

My shop is 2000 Square feet with 12 foot ceilings . When I was filling the generator with fuel I made sure the main lift door 10x12 was open as well as the man door . I will be headed back into see the doc this week and he will order tests to see how much of the membrane was effected and burned away from breathing in the fumes and to see if I’m going to have any future problems .

the meds to lookout for are
KETOROLAC   : a anti inflammatory drug used to joint pain as well as helping to reduce any swelling I you also have to eat at the same time 

CYCLOBENZAPRINE : it’s the little small house shape . these stop muscle spasms in my legs .

these two drugs are very dangerous when working in the shop

ill also have to get rid of the brakes parts cleaner because of the ammonia smell.

there are some new cleaning products you can buy that do the same job but no harmful fumes .

[Duel fuel spark plug heat range]

BEFORE  I get all the back lash I KNOW I’m stupid and I fully expect them . Now that I’m back up and moving again you think a mechanic would know better but some times the stupid ones are right in front of you . I had a little miss-happen and ended up going to the hospital,from over dosing on exhaust fumes and gas fumes . 
I know I know the first thing I asked my self was did open up the garage door enough . You think a 12 wide 10 high door would be enough apparently that wasn’t enough . I almost passed out when I got back in the house and then my nose started to bleed a lot and it would not stop. Off we go to the hospital with the lights flashing in the back of the wagon .
apparently the meds I’m on for my heart do not go well with gas fumes WHO KNEW ???.?. My pharmacist didn’t nor did the doctor at the hospital . 
I actually found it out online after I got back home and looked it up .A little oxygen and some cauterizing of a nose blood vessel cured the bleeding problem . I was on oxygen for about 10 hours then I was released and have been in bed the past few days . To say my wife was Mildly miffed is an understatement .
but who knew really

now I have I have looked online I found out all alone while taking my meds I should not be around gasoline fumes. WTF

no one has ever told me or have I read where it states do not be around or work with these products . 

now getting back to the original question I asked .thank you for all the comments and suggestions by the way . 

my generator only has just under 200 hours in it and is a 12 hp . I’ll leave the spark plug as it is for now and just worry about not making myself sick . 
I did find out the generator will run almost 27 hours on 10 gallons of gas so it should run for a few days on 100 pounds of propane .

we have another huge storm coming this weekend with about 100 mm of rain and wind gusts of over 100 kph . It will last from Sunday till Tuesday . Not looking forward to it .

lets just say let this be a warning to everyone make sure your work place is safe to work on or in and make sure if your on meds that you can work with chemicals and dust and wear a damn mask even if it’s only for a few mins . 
don’t worry my wife is holding the big stick very close lol.

I shouldn’t laugh but we all learn from our mistakes. Sometimes it takes some of us to be hit with the big stick a cpl of times to learn . YES I have.

cheers

Tony 
 

 

[Duel fuel spark plug heat range]

Hi everyone 

I have some questions on Duel fuel trucks propane/gas well not rover content I need some help with a duel fuel generator .

at the Moment we are on the generator again here in Canada because of another storm.

we have been on our petrol generator for the past 5 days and it’s been working great 10,000 watt pretty much runs the whole house and parts of my shop.

I will be converting the generator to duel fuel propane/ petrol . I want the ability to run propane because 1 it’s half the price of petrol 2 I can run it in the shop and still be able to move about without the bad fumes you get from running it on petrol. On propane you can at least walk around the shop and not die.

with the duel fuel system do you need to run a hotter spark plug or will the spark plug you use when you run on petrol be hot enough to use when running on propane ?
when I was in the military we had factory installed propane systems on truck and cars not duel fuel just propane and they had to run a hotter spark plug because the propane burns a lot colder than when running on petrol.

I want to run on propane AND petrol can I just get away with the factory petrol spark plug ?  

any ideas on a good heat range spark plug would help out a lot for instance do I move the heat range up or down on the scale ?

When I run the generator on petrol I can run it for about 25/27 hours before I have to refill the petrol tank it holds 8 US gallons of petrol.
the propane tank I have is a 100 pound tank and according to the company that sold me the conversion kit I should be able to run the generator on a 20 pound tank for about 10 hours but only at half load . So I should be able to run the generator on full load longer on propane using my 100 pound tank at least that’s the theory lolol. 
when the power goes out at -20 I’ll have to start the generator on petrol , once it’s warmed up I can switch it to propane .

i look forward to any and all answers 

tony 

[Series oil pan gasket on a 200 Tdi]

We all have our own opinions about how we go about our repairs on these engines and trucks . I know some don’t use gaskets and yes I admit I have at times I have just 515/510 . I personally like to use a gasket . 
 

I tried a V8 gasket for a 3.9 and it was very close the bolt pattern was just by a little . I have the gasket set ordered and it should be in this week .

Tony 

[Series oil pan gasket on a 200 Tdi]

I have run into way too many problems with regular RTV from plugged oil pickups to drain plugs not allowing oil to drain out of the oil pan . I have also drilled out a lot of drive flange bolt holes because someone just used RTV with no gasket and plugged the bottom of the hole and the bolts won’t tighten up . It you use the $0.50 cent gasket and a little bit of RTV then you can get away with it . 

 With most older RTV sealants they were not O2 sensor safe , I believe now they are all O2 sensor safe .

Arjan 

they changed to shape of the oil pan on the 200 because they used the ladder bridge which is taller than a regular oil pan .

I suppose I could use a 2.5 NA oil pan if the bolt pattern is the same but that would defeat the purpose of the ladder bridge.

the oil pump is the same and you have to remove part of the pump just to get the ladder bridge out or install it 
I like using gaskets for my customers because some of them live 500 miles away and I don’t want any tow calls because of leaks and do the job twice.
 

I'm in the process of building a run up stand over the winter to break in engines before they go out the door or installed into the truck . I also always put about 250 miles on them to make sure they are working properly and things settle in to where they need to . I then give them their first oil change and valves adjusted before they leave . Once I have the engine broke in I’ll then let it go home . My customers appreciate it because some of them don’t turn wrenches , I try to teach them but they usually leave it to me to fix and adjust . Most just want to get in and drive not maintain or fix any problems . 
I stopped going to most or our rally’s totally because I could never get on the trails and have some fun because everyone wanted work done on their trucks it never stops sometimes . by the time you have their truck fixed there is another one broken . 
 

we had a guy at a rally break his truck 500 meters on the first trail . He hit a rock so had with the bellhousing cross member he tore it open and shoved the transmission up so hard up wards he drove the fan through the radiator . The truck was a EX military 109 so it had the 8 blade steel fan and it tor the radiator out . It took us about 6 hours to tow him out and get him to a road so we could come back and get it later in the day with my trailer .

the damage was astronomical. He even bent a front chassis spring horn . It took me about two months to get it stripped down to a bare chassis and take it to the welding shop to have all the welding done and the chassis straightened . 

I have a gasket set comming in this week for a 2.5 NA to see if the oil pan gasket for the 2.5 NA will fit the ladder bridge where it meets the block.

the 200 is also in a LHD 1963 109 with the series drive train and a high ratio Ashcroft T case . 
the 200 does have the power to pull it and the truck will keep up to pretty much any rover out there lol.

Snagger

this is why I use lock-tite 515 it doesn’t leak at all . I agree with you there is the right RTV for a particular purpose .

if I’m in a pinch and need to let’s say do a diff cover gasket I’ll use regular RTV if I don’t have any 515 or a gasket . It’s easy to change later if needed but on this job the engine is very tight in the bay and the oil pan gasket would require taking out the engine to change it or fix a leak if one appears . 
 

Fridge 

I agree totally if you buy cheap stuff you get cheap results .
 

Tony 

 

 

[Series oil pan gasket on a 200 Tdi]

This lock-tite has to be the best stuff I ever came across.

we used it in the military to seal up the hub covers . The part gad a machined faces with 515 applied no leaks at all .

GM told us to use only 510/515 on all drive parts that had a machines face as there were no gaskets for the planetary gears just a cover

Damn engineers lol 

I have been using it ever since I opened my shop is 07. And while I was I’m the military for,25 years.

the oil pan on a 200 looks to be shorter in Hightower than a NA and so on. 

A good thing about the ladder frame is it makes the bottom half of the block to be much stronger just like a 4.6 rover with side main bearing bolts.

I know the crank shaft is interchangeable between and 2.5 P 2.5 na, a 2.5 turbo and a 200.

even if I can only find a gasket for the ladder frame to block gasket I’ll have to settle for some good old 515 .

Tony 

 

[Series oil pan gasket on a 200 Tdi]

Hi everyone 

I’m looking to find out if a 2.25 oil pan gasket will fit a 200 Tdi engine between the ladder frame  and will the oil pan gasket fit the 2,25 oil pan .

im in the process of putting a 200 Tdi back together and the process has had its ups and down lol 

anyways the parts manual does list a 5mb Petrol and diesel along with the 2.5 N/A but NOT and TD . I thought the 2.5 N/A and TD both had the same bolt pattern

so you would think the gasket for the 2.5 N/A would fit a TD 

If anyone has some info I would love to read about this sort of problem lol .

I hate using silly goo especially on the oil pan and the ladder frame. 
over  the years I have found oil based products like gear oil and engine oil will eat the silly goo faster.

I do use a product called lock-tite 515 so far my engine I have  dont leak at all 

it’s expensive but it never leaks . It doesn’t get hard and stay soft forever. You know if you take the cap off  a RTV tubs it will dry out and turn hard inside the tube.the lock-tite never gets had it stays very playable .

when you use it you can take off things like oil pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets if you use them .

I have used it on a rear diff a cpl times on the trail and it fantastic we didn’t even wait fo it to get tacky we just installed the diff and we’re on our way .

anyways if anyone has any info this gasket please give me a shout cheers 

 

Tony 

[RRC with P38 roof ?]

I’ll try to get a picture today . It’s was in storage with a tarp over it and tires to hold down the tarp THEN we had 17 feet of snow over the winter . I went out in the spring and it was pretty crushed . The cross ribs are all bent down.

I managed to get most of the the roof pulled back up and have to work at the cross bows . The right front courier is the worst .

what I did was put the engine in the shop and used my over head gantry Crain some ropes and pulling he some suction cups to stock to the roof and slowly pull it back up and into some sort of shape. 

[300tdi injector specs]

Hi Tobias 

thanks for the advise is there any chance you might have the part numbers for the pistons , injectors, ?

if you had a parts book that would be even better. I know the 2.8 was in the ford rangers in Spain but no one seems to have a parts book for the truck . And in English lol 

Tony

[300tdi injector specs]

Thanks eightpot.

is it really worth to the change to the 2.8 injector tips and use the 300 body, tube,and spring . 
 

any improvements would be a plus 

 

Tony

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

I forgot to mention one detail about the booster rebuild kits . 

ONLY the RRC booster have a complete kit including the diaphragm inside. The disco and series and defender style kits come with the one way calve and the insert seals NOT a diaphragm.

this is the most over looked problem . 
 

like taco said his peddle goes down which indicates a internal leak inside the master cylinder. If there are no leaks externally there is only other explanation the master .

I have had zero issues with the genuine TRW all steel master cylinders they are listed as genuine .

I have heard on one this that might be causing your peddle issue and  is the “peddle high from the floor correct . If the peddle is not correctly measured  from the floor and the push rod not adjusted correctly it could be causing the punch rod not coming back all the way and not closing the little valve in the brake master which will let fluid move internally . 
there need to be a min of I believe 1/16 to 1/8 of peddle play before the push rod touches the brake master cylinder piston internally. 
the push rod could be stuck or way out of adjustment . Just my thoughts . And. Experiences with brake issues .

tony 
 

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

Rattling sounds inside the vacuum booster doesn’t sound good . 
Todd I would look for an old RRC booster . You can rebuild the entire booster including the inside rubber diaphragm unlike the later ones and the series . They only sell the O rings and a cpl of rubber inlet valves . I can get the proper numbers if you need them .

have you thought of going to hydro boost brakes ? A good thing with the rovers is you can add a extra pump to run the brakes or just tap into the steering pump like normal

 they will get your truck stopped in a hurry l9l.

I agree if the peddle is going to the floor and there is no visible leaks you master has quit working properly .

time for a up grade lol.

Tony 

[300tdi injector specs]

Good to know thanks LRF .

Tony 

[300tdi injector specs]

Hi all 

the shims are for adjusting the pop off pressure . The 200 Tdi has two,stage injectors. The 300 Tdi has single stage injectors as far as I know and have ready I could be wrong , I have never seen or heard of two stage injectors on a 300 . If you look at a 200 injector you can see the physical size difference between the two and the number 4 injector is different than the other three do to having a sensor telling the ECU the engine is warmed up.

the pop off pressure is 200 Bar which is 200x14.7(one atmosphere) = 2940PSI . If you can get them all to pop off at 2900 and have a really good spray pattern then you’re good to go .

When I do a full engine rebuild I order new injectors from Bosch if I can’t find new complete Injectors I’ll order new tips and build a set of matching injectors . I’ll then know they are going to list a long time trouble free. I’ll even order new internal springs . My engine builder has a tester and shims to adjust the injector to the right pop off pressure. . Not matter how long the injectors have been on your shelf you should test them to check on the spray pattern and pop off pressure . 

the last set I had done my engine machine shop tested and adjusted them and installed a new set of injector tips that’s I provided . I know these are used injectors and I replace them with new ones but just on a complete rebuild . This way I know they are getting NEW injectors.

My question to everyone is does anyone know the injector tip number for the Bosch injectors used in the international 2.8 and where can I buy either the tips or the complete injectors for the 2.8.

I’ll buy new injectors if that’s all I can find but I have brand new injectors and I want to switch them to the 2.8 for more power .

if they are the same part number as the 300 then I’ll be golden lol.

I’m also looking for a part number and a place other than fourby to buy the boost pin and the boost ring kit to fit my 300 injection pump.

I can’t find the part numbers anywhere .

Fourby4x4 says they will sell me the injector tips for a 2.8 if I send mine over to the UK from Canada and they will install and test them . They won’t even give me the Bosch part number . I get it they have a shop to run . My problem is I live in Canada and the cost of shipping them back and forth across the other side of the pond is astronomical. They will also be returned to me if they are not super super clean . The diesel smell will set off the airport sensors lololol

if I send over my brand new injectors to have the tips installed how do I know I’ll get the brand new ones back and not used ones rebuilt .

 Any help would be great 

thanks 

Tony 

 

 

 

 

 

[300 TDI blue/grey smoke on start up and overrun]

I have a truck that just came into the shop and it had a lot of white smoke and blue . 
they broke the end of the crankshaft where the key ways sit .

they took a chunk out of the crank where the balancer goes on and they also broke the timing gear on the crank and took a chunk out of that gear as well .

the timing belt was out by one tooth and a half no that’s not true lol the cam belt sprocket was moving that tooth and a half . 
the pistons did hit the valves . 
so it turned out to be a complete rebuild because the head gasket was leaking as well . When I took the crank out they crank had 120 thought of play in side to side movement on the damper and the timing gear . 
luckly I had a crank already done to install into another 200. 
the pulley bolt came loose and the damper had the triple cast pulls on the engine and it just destroyed the crank.

I personally rebuilt this engine 14 years ago and when I took out the mains and rods the bearings were just like I had installed them .

they previous owner used to off road the truck HARD and did not put in the vent plug on the bottom of the timing belt.

there was mud half way up the inside of the outer timing cover .

luckly we are waiting for a set of rings because there was no wear in the cylinders or pistons . We took the glass off the liners and they are ready for new rings .

you mentioned you over ran the engine going down hill . That’s a huge mistake because the little valve caps will bounce off the end valve and now you have an instant miss and the push rods will pounce past the rocker shaft and will bend .

good thing you caught it time and did the work to correct the problem .

If your engine has these valve caps on the end lol the valves you MUST creep a close eye on when you last adjusted the valves and adjust them properly . if you over run the engine down a hill there is a very good chance one or more will pop off the valve and could cause damage .I have found a set of these valve caps at summit racing and are far better quality than the ones from the UK.
many a time I have seem this problem and most people take them off and you can get away with it for a while but the end of the rocker arm will ware out because the little valve caps provide a wider surface for the rocker arm to press on when opening the valves.

the engine Im fixing now is just owner abuse and neglect. The truck was driven as fast as it would go for almost 1200 Kim’s . 
the crank bolt can loose and made the end of the crank shaft look like a egg from the pulley and damper bouncing up and down ..
here is a link to a video of when I did the engine swap one a series three 109 LHD . 
 

 

 

Tony 

 

 

 

[RRC 91 Borg Warner TC broken - what could have caused this?]

When I was in the Canadian military as REME we used to change the BW transfer cases in the IVECO trucks .

thr truck had the 2.5 VM diesel with a HP22 and a BW transfer case .

The truck did not have the viscous coupler in it but rest was the same . The T case would have the chain break and just tear up everything attached with it . Most times we would have to order a tranny as well as the T case . 
if the front drive shaft broke it would did the very same as the Land Rover it would tear apart the tranny,t case , and we even had to order a engine as well because you could not turn over the engine to gat a t the torque con ether bolts . 
the chains ain the Bw T case stretch over time and the viscus coupler will seize and cause all kinds of problems like what you have there . The chain probably broke and piled up on the output bearing and boom now your into changing it out ..Let didn’t do anything to the tranny our the granny out put shaft.

it is easier to just change out to another BW style if you just want to drive your truck around but the LT230 is a little stronger and all gear drive . You just have to get the right speedo drive or T case gearing .

it will take some time but it can be done . 
I had a P38 here that had a chain problem and we caught it in time before it broke . The chain was so worn out it would jump the gears inside when you put any sort of power to get moving or off road . I just switched it out for a like for like Tcase. You can pick one up from a breakers in N\A for about $1100.00 bucks . That’s why I like to have spares around lol.

I wish I could get a drive train out of one of the Canadian LSVW(light service vehicle wheeled) 

it came with a iveco 2.5 TDI , a HP22 same as a D1 or RRC . Te BW transfer case actually had the two wheel drive option .

the engine was a VM with a single cylinder head and one piece head gasket . It had a timing chain not like the old VM 2.4/2.5 with gear drive .the turbo and injection pump were identical to a 300 Tdi same injectors as well ..

they thought a 2.5 Tdi would move a loaded 10,000 pound truck with a trailer on the back . It was only a 125 hp engine lol.

I tuned one up one day and it woke the truck up and the truck would now hold 110 Kph lol pretty slow but it worked . 

like I said the Tcase is done and you should be able to find one pretty easy at a breakers .

 

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

I don’t think it’s too rusty in the coolant passages but they will know when they knock out the freeze plugs and the head removed .

Tony 

[Improving 110 brakes on a budget]

If you’re using an adaptor plate you should be able to oval the holes a bit and help line the master cylinder up a little better . When I installed the GM truck master cylinder to my series peddle tower I had to oval the mounting towards each other because the bolt pattern was a little wider than the rover . The mounting tabs were wide enough to allow me to oval them and not interfere with washers and nuts to secure it to the peddle tower . I also had to adjust the push rod attached the the brake peddle . I had to lengthen it so it had the proper amount of play with the master cylinder piston. I think it was a 1/16 of a inch not sure on that though long time  ago lol.

I won’t be running full boost all the time . I have a boost gauge and a in cab adjuster so I can back off the boost if needed . I’m not out racing this thing lol just having a little fun and on a fresh full engine rebuild I’ll need to make sure the engine is well broken in before I start really start pushing the go peddle lol. 
depending on how much rust is in the coolant cavities from the previous owner and it sitting so long I have brand new cylinder liners .

they can take out the old liners and clean out the cavities and make sure the block is clean and rust free . 
if they look at the block and see there’s no need to clean out any or non of the rust I’ll use the factory liners. 
the engine shop has a 200 litre barrel they put engine blocks in and use a low voltage charge and it cleans out the rust from the block and they look fantastic when they come of the barrel . If they need to I’ll have them clean it that way and install new liners .

Tony