Little mule

My shop is 2000 Square feet with 12 foot ceilings . When I was filling the generator with fuel I made sure the main lift door 10x12 was open as well as the man door . I will be headed back into see the doc this week and he will order tests to see how much of the membrane was effected and burned away from breathing in the fumes and to see if I’m going to have any future problems . the meds to lookout for are KETOROLAC : a anti inflammatory drug used to joint pain as well as helping to reduce any swelling I you also have to eat at the same time CYCLOBENZAPRINE : it’s the little small house shape . these stop muscle spasms in my legs . these two drugs are very dangerous when working in the shop ill also have to get rid of the brakes parts cleaner because of the ammonia smell. there are some new cleaning products you can buy that do the same job but no harmful fumes .

BEFORE I get all the back lash I KNOW I’m stupid and I fully expect them . Now that I’m back up and moving again you think a mechanic would know better but some times the stupid ones are right in front of you . I had a little miss-happen and ended up going to the hospital,from over dosing on exhaust fumes and gas fumes . I know I know the first thing I asked my self was did open up the garage door enough . You think a 12 wide 10 high door would be enough apparently that wasn’t enough . I almost passed out when I got back in the house and then my nose started to bleed a lot and it would not stop. Off we go to the hospital with the lights flashing in the back of the wagon . apparently the meds I’m on for my heart do not go well with gas fumes WHO KNEW ???.?. My pharmacist didn’t nor did the doctor at the hospital . I actually found it out online after I got back home and looked it up .A little oxygen and some cauterizing of a nose blood vessel cured the bleeding problem . I was on oxygen for about 10 hours then I was released and have been in bed the past few days . To say my wife was Mildly miffed is an understatement . but who knew really now I have I have looked online I found out all alone while taking my meds I should not be around gasoline fumes. WTF no one has ever told me or have I read where it states do not be around or work with these products . now getting back to the original question I asked .thank you for all the comments and suggestions by the way . my generator only has just under 200 hours in it and is a 12 hp . I’ll leave the spark plug as it is for now and just worry about not making myself sick . I did find out the generator will run almost 27 hours on 10 gallons of gas so it should run for a few days on 100 pounds of propane . we have another huge storm coming this weekend with about 100 mm of rain and wind gusts of over 100 kph . It will last from Sunday till Tuesday . Not looking forward to it . lets just say let this be a warning to everyone make sure your work place is safe to work on or in and make sure if your on meds that you can work with chemicals and dust and wear a damn mask even if it’s only for a few mins . don’t worry my wife is holding the big stick very close lol. I shouldn’t laugh but we all learn from our mistakes. Sometimes it takes some of us to be hit with the big stick a cpl of times to learn . YES I have. cheers Tony

Hi everyone I have some questions on Duel fuel trucks propane/gas well not rover content I need some help with a duel fuel generator . at the Moment we are on the generator again here in Canada because of another storm. we have been on our petrol generator for the past 5 days and it’s been working great 10,000 watt pretty much runs the whole house and parts of my shop. I will be converting the generator to duel fuel propane/ petrol . I want the ability to run propane because 1 it’s half the price of petrol 2 I can run it in the shop and still be able to move about without the bad fumes you get from running it on petrol. On propane you can at least walk around the shop and not die. with the duel fuel system do you need to run a hotter spark plug or will the spark plug you use when you run on petrol be hot enough to use when running on propane ? when I was in the military we had factory installed propane systems on truck and cars not duel fuel just propane and they had to run a hotter spark plug because the propane burns a lot colder than when running on petrol. I want to run on propane AND petrol can I just get away with the factory petrol spark plug ? any ideas on a good heat range spark plug would help out a lot for instance do I move the heat range up or down on the scale ? When I run the generator on petrol I can run it for about 25/27 hours before I have to refill the petrol tank it holds 8 US gallons of petrol. the propane tank I have is a 100 pound tank and according to the company that sold me the conversion kit I should be able to run the generator on a 20 pound tank for about 10 hours but only at half load . So I should be able to run the generator on full load longer on propane using my 100 pound tank at least that’s the theory lolol. when the power goes out at -20 I’ll have to start the generator on petrol , once it’s warmed up I can switch it to propane . i look forward to any and all answers tony

We all have our own opinions about how we go about our repairs on these engines and trucks . I know some don’t use gaskets and yes I admit I have at times I have just 515/510 . I personally like to use a gasket . I tried a V8 gasket for a 3.9 and it was very close the bolt pattern was just by a little . I have the gasket set ordered and it should be in this week . Tony

I have run into way too many problems with regular RTV from plugged oil pickups to drain plugs not allowing oil to drain out of the oil pan . I have also drilled out a lot of drive flange bolt holes because someone just used RTV with no gasket and plugged the bottom of the hole and the bolts won’t tighten up . It you use the $0.50 cent gasket and a little bit of RTV then you can get away with it . With most older RTV sealants they were not O2 sensor safe , I believe now they are all O2 sensor safe . Arjan they changed to shape of the oil pan on the 200 because they used the ladder bridge which is taller than a regular oil pan . I suppose I could use a 2.5 NA oil pan if the bolt pattern is the same but that would defeat the purpose of the ladder bridge. the oil pump is the same and you have to remove part of the pump just to get the ladder bridge out or install it I like using gaskets for my customers because some of them live 500 miles away and I don’t want any tow calls because of leaks and do the job twice. I'm in the process of building a run up stand over the winter to break in engines before they go out the door or installed into the truck . I also always put about 250 miles on them to make sure they are working properly and things settle in to where they need to . I then give them their first oil change and valves adjusted before they leave . Once I have the engine broke in I’ll then let it go home . My customers appreciate it because some of them don’t turn wrenches , I try to teach them but they usually leave it to me to fix and adjust . Most just want to get in and drive not maintain or fix any problems . I stopped going to most or our rally’s totally because I could never get on the trails and have some fun because everyone wanted work done on their trucks it never stops sometimes . by the time you have their truck fixed there is another one broken . we had a guy at a rally break his truck 500 meters on the first trail . He hit a rock so had with the bellhousing cross member he tore it open and shoved the transmission up so hard up wards he drove the fan through the radiator . The truck was a EX military 109 so it had the 8 blade steel fan and it tor the radiator out . It took us about 6 hours to tow him out and get him to a road so we could come back and get it later in the day with my trailer . the damage was astronomical. He even bent a front chassis spring horn . It took me about two months to get it stripped down to a bare chassis and take it to the welding shop to have all the welding done and the chassis straightened . I have a gasket set comming in this week for a 2.5 NA to see if the oil pan gasket for the 2.5 NA will fit the ladder bridge where it meets the block. the 200 is also in a LHD 1963 109 with the series drive train and a high ratio Ashcroft T case . the 200 does have the power to pull it and the truck will keep up to pretty much any rover out there lol. Snagger this is why I use lock-tite 515 it doesn’t leak at all . I agree with you there is the right RTV for a particular purpose . if I’m in a pinch and need to let’s say do a diff cover gasket I’ll use regular RTV if I don’t have any 515 or a gasket . It’s easy to change later if needed but on this job the engine is very tight in the bay and the oil pan gasket would require taking out the engine to change it or fix a leak if one appears . Fridge I agree totally if you buy cheap stuff you get cheap results . Tony

This lock-tite has to be the best stuff I ever came across. we used it in the military to seal up the hub covers . The part gad a machined faces with 515 applied no leaks at all . GM told us to use only 510/515 on all drive parts that had a machines face as there were no gaskets for the planetary gears just a cover Damn engineers lol I have been using it ever since I opened my shop is 07. And while I was I’m the military for,25 years. the oil pan on a 200 looks to be shorter in Hightower than a NA and so on. A good thing about the ladder frame is it makes the bottom half of the block to be much stronger just like a 4.6 rover with side main bearing bolts. I know the crank shaft is interchangeable between and 2.5 P 2.5 na, a 2.5 turbo and a 200. even if I can only find a gasket for the ladder frame to block gasket I’ll have to settle for some good old 515 . Tony

Hi everyone I’m looking to find out if a 2.25 oil pan gasket will fit a 200 Tdi engine between the ladder frame and will the oil pan gasket fit the 2,25 oil pan . im in the process of putting a 200 Tdi back together and the process has had its ups and down lol anyways the parts manual does list a 5mb Petrol and diesel along with the 2.5 N/A but NOT and TD . I thought the 2.5 N/A and TD both had the same bolt pattern so you would think the gasket for the 2.5 N/A would fit a TD If anyone has some info I would love to read about this sort of problem lol . I hate using silly goo especially on the oil pan and the ladder frame. over the years I have found oil based products like gear oil and engine oil will eat the silly goo faster. I do use a product called lock-tite 515 so far my engine I have dont leak at all it’s expensive but it never leaks . It doesn’t get hard and stay soft forever. You know if you take the cap off a RTV tubs it will dry out and turn hard inside the tube.the lock-tite never gets had it stays very playable . when you use it you can take off things like oil pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets if you use them . I have used it on a rear diff a cpl times on the trail and it fantastic we didn’t even wait fo it to get tacky we just installed the diff and we’re on our way . anyways if anyone has any info this gasket please give me a shout cheers Tony

I’ll try to get a picture today . It’s was in storage with a tarp over it and tires to hold down the tarp THEN we had 17 feet of snow over the winter . I went out in the spring and it was pretty crushed . The cross ribs are all bent down. I managed to get most of the the roof pulled back up and have to work at the cross bows . The right front courier is the worst . what I did was put the engine in the shop and used my over head gantry Crain some ropes and pulling he some suction cups to stock to the roof and slowly pull it back up and into some sort of shape.

Hi Tobias thanks for the advise is there any chance you might have the part numbers for the pistons , injectors, ? if you had a parts book that would be even better. I know the 2.8 was in the ford rangers in Spain but no one seems to have a parts book for the truck . And in English lol Tony

Thanks eightpot. is it really worth to the change to the 2.8 injector tips and use the 300 body, tube,and spring . any improvements would be a plus Tony

I forgot to mention one detail about the booster rebuild kits . ONLY the RRC booster have a complete kit including the diaphragm inside. The disco and series and defender style kits come with the one way calve and the insert seals NOT a diaphragm. this is the most over looked problem . like taco said his peddle goes down which indicates a internal leak inside the master cylinder. If there are no leaks externally there is only other explanation the master . I have had zero issues with the genuine TRW all steel master cylinders they are listed as genuine . I have heard on one this that might be causing your peddle issue and is the “peddle high from the floor correct . If the peddle is not correctly measured from the floor and the push rod not adjusted correctly it could be causing the punch rod not coming back all the way and not closing the little valve in the brake master which will let fluid move internally . there need to be a min of I believe 1/16 to 1/8 of peddle play before the push rod touches the brake master cylinder piston internally. the push rod could be stuck or way out of adjustment . Just my thoughts . And. Experiences with brake issues . tony

Rattling sounds inside the vacuum booster doesn’t sound good . Todd I would look for an old RRC booster . You can rebuild the entire booster including the inside rubber diaphragm unlike the later ones and the series . They only sell the O rings and a cpl of rubber inlet valves . I can get the proper numbers if you need them . have you thought of going to hydro boost brakes ? A good thing with the rovers is you can add a extra pump to run the brakes or just tap into the steering pump like normal they will get your truck stopped in a hurry l9l. I agree if the peddle is going to the floor and there is no visible leaks you master has quit working properly . time for a up grade lol. Tony

Good to know thanks LRF . Tony

Hi all the shims are for adjusting the pop off pressure . The 200 Tdi has two,stage injectors. The 300 Tdi has single stage injectors as far as I know and have ready I could be wrong , I have never seen or heard of two stage injectors on a 300 . If you look at a 200 injector you can see the physical size difference between the two and the number 4 injector is different than the other three do to having a sensor telling the ECU the engine is warmed up. the pop off pressure is 200 Bar which is 200x14.7(one atmosphere) = 2940PSI . If you can get them all to pop off at 2900 and have a really good spray pattern then you’re good to go . When I do a full engine rebuild I order new injectors from Bosch if I can’t find new complete Injectors I’ll order new tips and build a set of matching injectors . I’ll then know they are going to list a long time trouble free. I’ll even order new internal springs . My engine builder has a tester and shims to adjust the injector to the right pop off pressure. . Not matter how long the injectors have been on your shelf you should test them to check on the spray pattern and pop off pressure . the last set I had done my engine machine shop tested and adjusted them and installed a new set of injector tips that’s I provided . I know these are used injectors and I replace them with new ones but just on a complete rebuild . This way I know they are getting NEW injectors. My question to everyone is does anyone know the injector tip number for the Bosch injectors used in the international 2.8 and where can I buy either the tips or the complete injectors for the 2.8. I’ll buy new injectors if that’s all I can find but I have brand new injectors and I want to switch them to the 2.8 for more power . if they are the same part number as the 300 then I’ll be golden lol. I’m also looking for a part number and a place other than fourby to buy the boost pin and the boost ring kit to fit my 300 injection pump. I can’t find the part numbers anywhere . Fourby4x4 says they will sell me the injector tips for a 2.8 if I send mine over to the UK from Canada and they will install and test them . They won’t even give me the Bosch part number . I get it they have a shop to run . My problem is I live in Canada and the cost of shipping them back and forth across the other side of the pond is astronomical. They will also be returned to me if they are not super super clean . The diesel smell will set off the airport sensors lololol if I send over my brand new injectors to have the tips installed how do I know I’ll get the brand new ones back and not used ones rebuilt . Any help would be great thanks Tony

I have a truck that just came into the shop and it had a lot of white smoke and blue . they broke the end of the crankshaft where the key ways sit . they took a chunk out of the crank where the balancer goes on and they also broke the timing gear on the crank and took a chunk out of that gear as well . the timing belt was out by one tooth and a half no that’s not true lol the cam belt sprocket was moving that tooth and a half . the pistons did hit the valves . so it turned out to be a complete rebuild because the head gasket was leaking as well . When I took the crank out they crank had 120 thought of play in side to side movement on the damper and the timing gear . luckly I had a crank already done to install into another 200. the pulley bolt came loose and the damper had the triple cast pulls on the engine and it just destroyed the crank. I personally rebuilt this engine 14 years ago and when I took out the mains and rods the bearings were just like I had installed them . they previous owner used to off road the truck HARD and did not put in the vent plug on the bottom of the timing belt. there was mud half way up the inside of the outer timing cover . luckly we are waiting for a set of rings because there was no wear in the cylinders or pistons . We took the glass off the liners and they are ready for new rings . you mentioned you over ran the engine going down hill . That’s a huge mistake because the little valve caps will bounce off the end valve and now you have an instant miss and the push rods will pounce past the rocker shaft and will bend . good thing you caught it time and did the work to correct the problem . If your engine has these valve caps on the end lol the valves you MUST creep a close eye on when you last adjusted the valves and adjust them properly . if you over run the engine down a hill there is a very good chance one or more will pop off the valve and could cause damage .I have found a set of these valve caps at summit racing and are far better quality than the ones from the UK. many a time I have seem this problem and most people take them off and you can get away with it for a while but the end of the rocker arm will ware out because the little valve caps provide a wider surface for the rocker arm to press on when opening the valves. the engine Im fixing now is just owner abuse and neglect. The truck was driven as fast as it would go for almost 1200 Kim’s . the crank bolt can loose and made the end of the crank shaft look like a egg from the pulley and damper bouncing up and down .. here is a link to a video of when I did the engine swap one a series three 109 LHD . Tony

When I was in the Canadian military as REME we used to change the BW transfer cases in the IVECO trucks . thr truck had the 2.5 VM diesel with a HP22 and a BW transfer case . The truck did not have the viscous coupler in it but rest was the same . The T case would have the chain break and just tear up everything attached with it . Most times we would have to order a tranny as well as the T case . if the front drive shaft broke it would did the very same as the Land Rover it would tear apart the tranny,t case , and we even had to order a engine as well because you could not turn over the engine to gat a t the torque con ether bolts . the chains ain the Bw T case stretch over time and the viscus coupler will seize and cause all kinds of problems like what you have there . The chain probably broke and piled up on the output bearing and boom now your into changing it out ..Let didn’t do anything to the tranny our the granny out put shaft. it is easier to just change out to another BW style if you just want to drive your truck around but the LT230 is a little stronger and all gear drive . You just have to get the right speedo drive or T case gearing . it will take some time but it can be done . I had a P38 here that had a chain problem and we caught it in time before it broke . The chain was so worn out it would jump the gears inside when you put any sort of power to get moving or off road . I just switched it out for a like for like Tcase. You can pick one up from a breakers in N\A for about $1100.00 bucks . That’s why I like to have spares around lol. I wish I could get a drive train out of one of the Canadian LSVW(light service vehicle wheeled) it came with a iveco 2.5 TDI , a HP22 same as a D1 or RRC . Te BW transfer case actually had the two wheel drive option . the engine was a VM with a single cylinder head and one piece head gasket . It had a timing chain not like the old VM 2.4/2.5 with gear drive .the turbo and injection pump were identical to a 300 Tdi same injectors as well .. they thought a 2.5 Tdi would move a loaded 10,000 pound truck with a trailer on the back . It was only a 125 hp engine lol. I tuned one up one day and it woke the truck up and the truck would now hold 110 Kph lol pretty slow but it worked . like I said the Tcase is done and you should be able to find one pretty easy at a breakers .

I don’t think it’s too rusty in the coolant passages but they will know when they knock out the freeze plugs and the head removed . Tony

If you’re using an adaptor plate you should be able to oval the holes a bit and help line the master cylinder up a little better . When I installed the GM truck master cylinder to my series peddle tower I had to oval the mounting towards each other because the bolt pattern was a little wider than the rover . The mounting tabs were wide enough to allow me to oval them and not interfere with washers and nuts to secure it to the peddle tower . I also had to adjust the push rod attached the the brake peddle . I had to lengthen it so it had the proper amount of play with the master cylinder piston. I think it was a 1/16 of a inch not sure on that though long time ago lol. I won’t be running full boost all the time . I have a boost gauge and a in cab adjuster so I can back off the boost if needed . I’m not out racing this thing lol just having a little fun and on a fresh full engine rebuild I’ll need to make sure the engine is well broken in before I start really start pushing the go peddle lol. depending on how much rust is in the coolant cavities from the previous owner and it sitting so long I have brand new cylinder liners . they can take out the old liners and clean out the cavities and make sure the block is clean and rust free . if they look at the block and see there’s no need to clean out any or non of the rust I’ll use the factory liners. the engine shop has a 200 litre barrel they put engine blocks in and use a low voltage charge and it cleans out the rust from the block and they look fantastic when they come of the barrel . If they need to I’ll have them clean it that way and install new liners . Tony

Good morning snagger first please excuse the damn typing with this spell check it sucks and sometimes wont let you spell what you want lol. Second please for give of the slight hijack of the thread I’ll try my best to stay on topic. A little back ground of my self , I have been working on rover for well over 40 years and still learn something new everyday. in NA most of the old series truck were well past their best before dates lol. there are guys like me and the rover clubs slowly reviving them with help from us old guys who know about them . I had a shop I opened when I retired from the military with 25 years of service and a body that’s worn out busted up squeaks and is very hard to start at times and have some body repairs from time to time lol. Sounds like a rover lol. I actually had to shut the shop down because of flooding (12 times in 10 years)and the work load of people wanting work done and my body just couldn’t keep up. They wanted their truck fixed like yesterday . They were told there was at least a week or two wait for me to even see the truck let alone fix it . I also know the brake systems you speak of as we had every kind in Canada until the 70,s when import banning came into effect (damn emissions)… I have to admit I did have one series truck that the brakes were fantastic on was a 88 with 109 brakes on it had a Chevy brake master . In the early days we were only buying our parts from a rover guy here in Canada and he was a rip off And they were junk parts . But when the internet came we were able to get a much needed better parts supplier . today I just putter in the shop and pretty much only work on disco,RRC, LR3, and so on because the stealers don’t want to work on them just sell them .they use the excuse that their scanners won’t go back as far as a 2004 so there for we can’t scan the truck to find a problem but we can sell you a new truck lol. I have a 1994 300 90 in the shop now and the brakes are ok the set up was the small booster , the big 110 Callipers and the regular disc in the back . It’s a gray market Rest of world truck Some parts don’t line up or are not correct with the parts manual and it’s a guessing game where the parts came from and off of what truck .The truck should have drums on the back but has a disco axle under the back according to the axle serial number . the front calliper were not changed when they did the brakes in Germany and the 110 big Callipers are no good because the retaining rings for the piston seals are all rusted off and the calliper is too rusted for the retaining ring to stay in place . When I say rusted they are like an old series truck with a rotted out frame and it’s just slag rust. I’ll put new disco ones on instead and the truck should stop fine but a really good road test will let me know . Oh did I mention they spent 25K getting the body work all redone painted inside and out and then they wanted a new radiator and intercooler and the timing belt . I told him not expect any scratches lol it’s well covered in card board. the front sale looks like it came out of a later truck because the diff splines were 24 and had the CV joints out of a early 110 with upper bushed swivel balls instead of bearings and no ABS . The diff was ready to break as the center pin was moving 1/8 or an inch side ways in the housing . Time for another one lol. 14 years ago I built a 109 ex military truck with a 200 Tdi conversion and it was left hand drive .it still had all of its drum brakes on it right now .I replaced all the lines and wheel cylinders and linings with a new TRW master and trey work the very best with no pumping of the peddle to get a firm peddle . the 200 vacuum pump worked very well and with the factory brakes renewed and set up properly. Because the truck was a exmilitery 109 and a 2.25 5MB diesel the brake system came with an extra vacuum reservoir . I reused it with the 200 and the brakes were comparable to discs . The truck was sold again to some A hole drove it fast and as hard as he could for 550 miles and broke the crank shaft When the crank pulley and harmonic balancer bolt came loose and the pulleys wobbled and vibrated it broke both key ways on the crankshaft and took chunks or steel out of the pulleys them selves (timing gear and harmonic balancer) i had a crank ready to go on the shelf and had the machine shop put the crank into the milling machine and they made the key way longer so that both the timing gear and harmonic balancer now have a full length key way each. it was a absolute mess when it got here . The belt ended being 1.5 tooth out of timing just enough the let the valves hit the head . I’m so glad it didn’t destroy the valve train . I should have it back together soon . As for the hybrid engine I’m looking at building a 200/300 the head is a brand new MWM head off an 2.8 international . I ported and polished it and I’ll be clamping it down with a ARP head stud kit using MLS head gaskets . MLS here in N/A are a very very good head gasket company which is mostly used in the racing industry because of the clamping ability and ease of install plus’s you can add or subtract the thickness very easily if it’s needed . I will also be using a ARP head stud kit from ARP . The kit will help clamp it down to the block much more evenly and with more force. The gaskets are much better than the stamped steel ones or the composite gaskets we normally use on our rovers . I have the rotating assembly balanced and the fly wheel lightened up so the will pick up a little speed when I rev the engine up . I want to use the 200 bottom end because I believe it’s much stronger than a 300 having a support ladder rack mounted to the bottom of the block . the brake vacuum pump will either be a factory 200 pump or a electric BMW type . The electric one make 25 inches of mercury all the time and it’s quiet so to speak lol it is a rover as the rover boosters get older they are getting hard to find and the inner bladder will most likely if it’s from a series truck . I will be using vented discs on the front with plain discs on the back . The front Callipers will be the huge ones from the 110 with stainless pistons . The rear will have the same treatment with stainless pistons and ceramic coated to help reduce heat and possible brake fade . my master will be a TRW 110 type and a RRC factory brake booster which is huge compared to the big flat disco used on the factory D1 and the 90/110 later models with ABS. the two door RRC had the biggest booster of all rover types and gave you lots of volume when it was needed and it would almost throw you out the windshield if you hit the brakes hard enough lol. the booster is fully rebuildable including the inner bladder where as the defender and disco1, can not be rebuilt (the inner bladder). The bolt pattern on the booster is the same as the series and early 90/110 its drum brakes . When they changed the boosters used primarily on the later 90/110 and disco1 when they went to disc brakes they changed the diameter and depth of the booster . the booster has a bolt pattern that’s also on a 45 degree angle . Unless you want to do some cutting and drilling you might get it to fit so you can use a master cylinder off a earlier truck where the bolt pattern is straight across on the 9 and 3 o’clock position . This will allow you to also use the much bigger master cylinder which allows more fluid volume to disc brake Callipers for better clamping force between the pads and rotors . I would have to look but I think the RRC booster will fit a disco peddle tower with no really big issues . I believe it was between 1993/4 to 1998 the disco 1 had the same brake peddle towers as the RRC before they switched the RRC to ABS/HDC and traction control with power brakes .I believe only used on the last long wheel base RRC before the P38 came into play in 1995 at least here in NA. Tony

Thanks for the reply snagger . the brakes on my two door RRC are really good for just factory brakes . the issue with my disco was the master cylinder volume out put was too small for the big 110 brake Callipers and bottomed out on the first push of the peddle but then worked if the peddle was pumped once or twice. Kind of like driving a old series truck lol. if I can’t get the hydro boost system to work for me I’ll install a second vacuum tank and use a electric vacuum pump from a BMW . the 200/300 Tdi I’m in the process of building will have a vacuum pump off the 200 and the cylinder head off a 300 with a skyline/ rover turbo setup . I’ll need all the braking power I can get once the boost is turned up . I should be able to maintainer about 25 lbs of boost under normal driving .

Hi all i thought I might throw my hat in the ring and give you a personal experience with the bigger Callipers and disco brakes . i changed out my front Callipers to the BIG 110 ones and solid discs . I used all EBC pads ,rotors, I used the factory disco ABS system and the factory disco master cylinder three port system . when I took the truck for a drive I almost killed myself trying to stop lol. the master I used was the three pipe disco system . I pushed on the brake peddle and it went right to the floor and bottomed out the master cylinder . I had no brakes unless you pumped the peddle once then it came up hard from the very top and had little travel . it also would hardly stop the truck . I changed out the brake peddle assembly and installed a RRC brake booster with the very large 110 brake master cylinder . I had to T off the rear brakes because the master only had two ports . I disconnected the ABS because this was my off road truck . let me tell you once I installed the correct master and the big booster from the RRC WOW did the truck stop well . I had a lot more control modulating the brake peddle and you could actually feel the brakes working and when they got hot I had to ease off the brake peddle so I did not lock them up . the RRC peddle assembly brake booster also has the proper bolt pattern straight across like a 110 brake master cylinder also the master cylinder has the proper volume for the bigger front Callipers . The 110 master bolts onto the booster with a little modding to the mounting bolt holes I think . The rod from the peddle to the brake master had to be adjusted as well . I don’t remember if it was shortened or lengthened it’s been a while lol . Worst case you can use a GM half ton brake master and will have all the peddle column you need. the brakes just worked very well . Off reading I could now stop and hold on the hills instead of having to put my truck into neutral so the brakes would hold in low range . the disco brakes in low range off reading would not hold at all, the truck at idle would just drive right through any amount of pressure I applied . Apparently this is a disco thing . my next set up on my RRC build will be hydro boost with the big 110 front Callipers and proper 110 rear Callipers (slightly bigger pistons than a disco) this set up stops the truck is a hurry if needed and holds back the truck on hills with out putting the tranny in neutral . speaking of big Callipers does anyone know where I can get the spacer and rubber used between the Calliper half’s and spacer plate when used on vented discs . I know you can get the proper rubber seals with the regular solid Callipers but I have not been able to find any of the longer spacers and rubber seals that go between the calliper and the spacer so the calliper is wider and fits vented rotors . Just my thoughts Tony

Thanks for all the help I actually found the measurement in one of my old series 2 manuals and it’s 2.5 inches if you have the old rope type seals . again thanks for everyone’s help and time . Tony

Hi Steve thanks for the reply the machine shop already had those measurements. the main reason I need the measurements for the rear oil seal surface is because the had to do some welding to save the crank for the gentleman . personally. Would have swapped the engine out for a 5 MB but he is trying to do a full on restoration and keep as much of the original truck as possible . thanks Tony

Hi all I got a call from my machine shop today and they had a question for me . im a defender RRC and disco guy so bear with me lol the machine shop needs the min and max diameter of the surface for the rear crank seal on a 3MB crank shaft . they are trying to save a crank and need to know what they need to turn It down to . any help would be greatly appreciated tony

I would love to have the 6x6 but there are too many projects going on and they aren’t mine lol. this job I have in my shop now is the last one I’m doing . I’m going to be working on my own trucks from now on . I have a d1 that’s been waiting forever to have the 4.6 stroked and balanced engine installed into it . then there is my RRC im still tossing around installing the Salisbury axles into my D1 because it’s my off road truck . one has a tru-trac in it for the rear and I might install another true - trac in the front . It will have the 4x2 conversion done as well as the RRC . I have a brand new HP24 I might pull the guts out of and install into my HP22 just to beef everything up for off reading . I’ll just be running stock ratios and a 1.4 Tcase so I can fit the 33,s on it but that’s it . I thought installing the Salisbury axles might help keep the center of gravity lower but it’s a Land Rover lol. I bought a safety devices 6 point inner roll cage and might install it into the RRC because we know how good they are in you roll them over even if it’s just on the road way and not off road . I might just copy the whole cage and install one into the D1 that should be easy enough with a pipe bender and some sand so the corners of the pipe bends don’t kink . with the Salisbury’s in the D1 I need to have custom drive shafts made with double cardinal joints on each end because of the 2 inch lift and the 33,s the angles are just too much with the Salisbury axle input centreline is lower than the rover type diff. And every rover diff I have is just plain worn out . The center pins have worn the case oval so they are now junk lol unless I install a locker of some type . im sure the RRC with rover type diffs should hold up to the very tuned 300 and the over drive . The 4x2 conversion should do well as 99 % of the driving will be on the paved roads and it being a show truck . It will be trailered every where we go unless it’s close .