87efi

I think I'll ask @ the local hydraulics will be the best and then give the thing a go. Thanks and a nice evening

Hey fridgefreezer Believe it or not- I had the same idea using my tyre pressure gauge as it's hanging around since I bought it and never was used. Only to be sure--i simply would have to put it in line to the fuel rail hose..? What I found out meanwhile: the plug at the CTS had one partially broken wire. I soldered a new plug to the loom..and it starts at it should. Not knowing if that's the whole problem as outside temperature is actually about 25degrees C. Thank you again for the support

So the wiring itself shown in the picture is correct the way it is?! I didn't recognize the relay on any wiring diagram. So my fault.sorry. then I think I'll have to check that vac.switch...and the fuel pressure-thing.-? Thanks for your answers so far

Hey smallfry I did the 'move the flap by hand while ignition switched on'- test with both fuel hoses disconnected ending in a plastic bottle yesterday. Pump works as it should.(pump is working even while cranking by starter) But I have no gauge to measure the pressure actually

Bowie69 There is no black/white wire at my coil. Only a white one which is ignition switch+(12v) The only black/white wire is at the socket of the grey Relay on the right of the coil (see the picture). That is the thing thats confusing me🤔

Hello fridgefreezer Because of that known heat problem with the amplifier I mounted the new HELLA one on a separate aluminium plate including a heatsink near the AFM. Can you tell me from which wire the ecu (4cu & it's a non Cat vehicle) gets its signal from to pulse the injectors? As it can't be the ignition switched 12v on the coil+ ...it has to be the wire that has got the 6.8kohm resistor with two spade connectors which goes from coil - to the relay right beneath the AFM..is that correct? And can you even tell why there's a capacitor on coil+ ? I always thought such a thing is only needed when you run a breaker contact/dizzy..? But mine has got contactless ignition. I took a picture of the situation. Greets Alex

hello out there. My '87 RRC 3.5efi developed a cold start problem for about a month now and I can't figure out what the problem is. Hope someone her can help me out on this as I don't understand some things on the wiring. The engine got an overhaul about 1.5years ago-new Cam,pistons,bearings,injectors etc. The actual problem is that it nearly won't start from cold like the first start at the day. I've got to crank it about one minute or more till it "slowly begins to wake up". I don't know how to correctly explain it another way. Once running it revs and runs fine. Even when turned off and restarted. I checked all the sensors(tts cts) throttle potentiometer, pick up plate and so on-readings are fine (-i went through the Haynes book) ignition amplifier & coil are both new(amp: HELLA, coil NGK) the amp has been taken off the dizzy and is now living near the AFM. the wiring at the coil as follows: there's a white wire coming out the harness going to coil+ (coming from the ignition switch-that should be correct)?! Another one at coil+ goes to the condenser. Another one from coil+ to the ignition amplifier. From coil - I've got one wire to the ignition amplifier. From coil - another (blue/white) wire with a small black resistor (it's 'lucas' branded and has about 6.8kohms) to the grey Relay that's near the coil and below the AFM. Is that last mentioned wire correct? Respectively the mentioned whole wiring? Has someone experiences or a clue what could cause this cold start issues? Thanks in advance.