MacStu

No self tappers on the Aircraft I work on so no self tappers for earths on the LR, rivnut worked out well. Discarded the coppers washers, just not supposed to be there....

Yeah your right.....the parts book showed the rings so we ordered them but obviously for a different setup, ours are lined up and ready to tighten up, threads on the studs pretty dodgy so hopefully they will tightened

Thanks for all the replies.....all sorted now that you guys have shed some light on rivnuts....pretty inexpensive but handy kit now to have around, thanks

Thanks for the reply...dont have a rivnut tool and was hoping for the 'its just a self tapper' reply...unfortunately being an aircraft engineer I overthink everything!

A couple of questions..... 1/ Just refitting loom to firewall and there is an earth terminal on the the engine side, cleaned paint off the freshly painted firewall, found a small bolt that I thought was going into a rivnut but it just stripped what was there, does this earth terminal location have an anchor nut within the firewall cavity or is it simply a screw threaded into the firewall steel, I was not involved with removing the loom but I have found pictures where it just looks like it is a slotted self tapping screw? small detail I know but if it originally had a anchor nut that would make for a much better earth point, if it was just a self tapper then I'll just up the size of the screw, there is no access to the rear side. I cant find any detail in the parts catalog which leads me to think its just threaded into the sheet steel of the firewall with nothing trick behind it 2/ Purchased a new exhaust system locally but bought a few other exhaust mounting spares from Paddock, one of the things we purchased was a copper seal which from the parts manual showed as required between the manifold and LH and RH V8 downpipes, the downpipes have the flared ends and I think the round copper seals are designed for a different set up, can someone confirm the round copper seals are not required with these manifolds and downpipes and the rounded end of the downpipe just snugs up into the manifold and clamps in place. Downpipes shown below with the copper washers which I think are not needed. The new downpipes are the same profile as the original ones removed from the manifolds. Thanks.....hopefully a couple of easy questions Stu

Thanks for the Pics, helps confirm what I thought was the shims. Will just temporarily place some in position and adjust later as required, appreciate the photos

Probably would be good but due my boy not having a lot of spare money we thought at this stage just get it up and running, re certified and then think whats next.

Thanks for that Paul, from your pic I have found the shims that would have been installed, may make a couple up out of some non metallic material as temporary fillers until we get to align everything. My son has been buying a few bits from the UK including the rear crossmember which got lost but luckily the supplier sent another. I'm still learning where the best places to get bits and pieces from here in NZ are. Just started looking at engine today (V8) and trying to decide how far to go with that, not really knowing the history makes it a bit tricky to know how far to go before fitting it but it doesnt look in too bad condition.....20k in shipping!!! guess you buy a few 'bits and pieces!' thanks for the reply

Yeah as per the photo attached......I guess setting everything up is a few steps away yet! this level of vehicle maintenance is new to me...just helping my son with this project and are starting to enjoy it, enjoying learning about the history of these trucks and the fact they kind of just bolt together is pretty cool...shame about the rust! this one came over from the UK around 1997 and was recently written off here due fresh water flood damage a year ago, if anything the flood just cleaned some of the rust off! anyway it needed a bunch of work to get re certified. I work as a avionic engineer for a airline here so are kind of frustrated by not just being able to order new spares for everything at no cost to me! thanks again

Thx....might have to revisit the bolts we purchased as they were just local hardware shop galv bolts may not be up to 8.8 will look tomorrow at the heads

Thx Steve...so no panic about installing now then I guess, might re visit in a few weeks!......also any thoughts on the bolts? just standard hardware and not high tensile ?

Thx will look at them

yeah though aluminium maybe not the best bet, just need a thickness before bolting it together, also some parts books show a nut plate and some just nuts and bolts, will just go nuts and bolts on this, thx

That would be great thanks....there looks to be some adjustment from the chassis bracket but need a standard starting point, cheers

Thank...kind of figured that was going to be the case....was wondering if alliy was going to be an issue with dissimilar metals

thanks...at this stage probably going to keep the bulk of the body original paint...combination of stone chip and blue! but needed to get the bulkhead re-protected

Any help on any questions appreciated!! First question.....we have just got out bulkhead back from being blasted and painted (new footwells welded in) and were in the process of fitting it when we realized the parts book shows a packing piece between the chassis mount and the firewall item 8, cant remember this during the destruction of the rusty mess that existed before. Is this packing necessary or is just a shim to help align the bulkhead vertical? if so what is it made of and how thick? should we worry about it or just bolt the bulkhead hard to the mount? Also...should the 2 main firewall mounting bolts be a higher grade of steel eg; high tensile or would just standard mild steel galv bolts be OK? thanks

Yeah unfortunately they aren't marked in anyway so would have to pump some gas to find out.

My workshop manual for 1983 and on seems to show the pump mounted in the tank only, is there some advantage of just doing this over the chassis facet pump and did they incorporate this in tank method as standard post 1985 and on? I guess the chassis pump is easier to get to later on if required but there must be some other reason why they went to the tank mounted pump On looking a bit further the low pressure and high pressure pumps do look the same so I'll have to be careful there, starting to think may be best to stick standard with the facet pump and just make the blank for the top of the tank where the pump goes.....any thoughts?

I'll try and confirm the pump then see if the wiring is there, will have to unravel the wiring but have a feeling there is only sender wiring

Thanks ....I'll power the pump up and see what it outputs, I'm guessing what was written on the tank from the parts place we bought it from was Range Rover Injected 'RRI' I was wondering if the standard chassis harness included the options for tank and chassis pump or if the tank wiring was only on the later year harnesses, may have to try and piece together the harness

My son and I are just starting to reassemble a 1983 110 after having the chassis/bulkhead repaired and painted. We purchased the truck partially restored but it didnt have a fuel tank. We bought a EFI 4RRI single vent tank second hand which fits fine but I have a couple of questions. 1/ The tank we purchased came with what looks like a new low pressure pump fitted in the top of the tank and a side sender that apparently doesnt work and also has had the fuel feed tube cut down so no good as a feed line. We will need a new sender, will the new sender work in this tank? same volume and shape to give an accurate reading? 2/ At this stage the wiring harnesses are just a big birds nest in a cardboard box, did the original harness for a 1983 110 provision for a pump on the tank or will the pump wiring stop and only be wired to the chassis mounted facet pump which it has? 3/ We are thinking we could use the pump supplied on the tank instead of the chassis facet pump even if we had to run the wiring for the pump, or are we better to sell off the tank pump, fit a blank to the top of the tank and just use the original facet chassis rail pump, buy a new sender and take the feed from that and return the fuel to the pipe on the top front RH corner of the new tank