Jeff in Stroud

Thanks Stephen. Will try. Jeff.

landroversforever, how do I message you? I'm a tech ludite!

Thanks again, folks. I'm working hard to assimilate all of the info being provided. Apologies, I missed the "Expand" arrow on Dann's post of two days' ago. Having found it. I'm more up to speed. Thanks, Daan, for your comprehensive set of responses. My reason for building up replacement axles rather than rebuild the existing ones is to minimise downtime. The current axles on my "90" are working perfectly. Both swivels could do with replacing, particularly the right side one which is leaking slightly, but they're serviceable and I can use the vehicle. If I rebuild the existing axles, I'll be without my "90" for some time. Yes, I could do some intensive work one axle at a time with the axles on the vehicle, but that won't give the result that I want. My overall plan is to do a good job in a number of areas on the "do it right, do it well, do it once" principal. Thus I can create a custom "90" which will meet my needs till I'm too old and decrepit to use it! Other items on the list in addition to axles are a hydraulic winch, a hydraulic system to run it and my log splitter, a compressed air system to run the Ashlockers and other things such as timber treatment sprayers, tyre inflation, etc., a roll cage, and some peripherals such as work lights. For the air system, I intend to adapt an air-con compressor to be an air pump. As far as the axles go, I have the "scrapper" axles, so I can work on them "on the bench" (clean, de-rust, build) and when they're ready, swap them with those currently on the vehicle. So, summarising to date, I have my shiny new diffs with Ashlockers, courtesy of Xcess4x4 and I have the axles tubes. I plan to buy Ashcroft half-shafts and drive flanges. Suggestions on this thread suggest Ashcroft CV joints are the best way to go, therefore I'll bite the bullet. Otherwise I'd need different hubs to use early 23 spline LR CVs and anyway they're on back order. Again, suggestions on this thread strongly suggest Land Rover swivels, so again, I'll bite the bullet and order some. I'll probably go for Britpart stub axles partly because there isn't significant negative feedback on here, and partly because I'm inclined to the view that compared to swivels, there's less likelihood of the manufacturing going wrong. I'm also inclined to leave out the rear axle seals per Ashcroft advise and comments on here. I'm intrigued by Daan's suggestion of leaving out the front seals as well. It makes sense to me. I've also thought about oil (EP90, I assume) in the hubs before now. I've never been convinced by the "one shot grease" business, especially as (I think) series LRs used oil. I had assumed that the change to grease with the introduction of the coil-sprung LRs was because of the change to the ball bearing type of CVs from the prop shaft type which were (I think) used on series LRs . Clearly the ball CVs will run on oil, so why not? Any other thoughts on this? I also plan to drill and tap my swivel pin housing/stub axle carriers to take a drain plug like the earlier ones. If using oil, draining and re-filling will be easier. Once again, I'm really grateful for all the suggestions and advise. Please keep it coming! Jeff.

Many thanks for all the information, folks. Much appreciated. I don't intend to be giving my "90" a hard time. No competitions or similar. I'm also very mechanically sympathetic. The motivation for the axle upgrades up-grades arises from wanting to fit locking diffs instead of open diffs in order to give better traction on the wet sloping ground where my "90" does most of its off road work. Having had new diffs built with Ashlockers, it seems sensible to go for Ashcroft shafts, drive flanges, and probably Ashcroft CV joints, because they'll be compatible and strong. However Land Rover 23 spline CVs might be a cheaper alternative and perfectly good form my needs. Any thoughts on these LR CVs? My tyres are 265/70 R16 Insa Turbo Special Tracks. These will be going onto the new axles. They measure 31" from the ground to the top of the tread. Thus bigger than standard, but not massive. The rear drive shafts currently fitted have integral drive flanges. I will need separate drive flanges to work with Ashcroft shafts. I understand that the Ashcroft flanges are a light interference fit on the shafts and so will minimise fretting wear. Hence my thinking to follow Ashcroft's advice, supported by Snagger a few posts up, to omit the oil seals and allow diff oil right out to the flanges for lubrication. I've read about the Britpart swivels breaking as warned by Daan a few posts up. However I'd also read the more recently reports that quality had improved and people have been using them without problems. Has anyone had recent and positive experience of these Britpart swivels? Jeff.

1998 Defender 90 Station Wagon, 300Tdi Hello All, I hope I'm not in breach of forum protocol with this new post. I've checked this part of the forum and can find nothing overlapping. I've read "Hybrid from hell's" axle rebuild post of 4 June 2007 in the archive. I am building a pair of uprated replacement axles for my Defender 90 from some very used Defender or Disco axles. My "90" has rear disks ("VA" chassis number) as does the replacement rear axle. These replacement axles have been stripped and are about to be de-rusted, cleaned, and painted. The plan is to build the replacement axles with the following: · new diffs from Xcess 4x4 incorporating Ashlockers and other upgrades. I already have these stored warm and snug with plenty of de-watering oil applied. This is like WD-40, but not in a fizz-can. · new Ashcroft half shafts, drive flanges and possibly CV joints (see below). · new quality bearings (Timken or equivalent). · new front swivels. · new stub axles. The originals are well passed their best. Three out of the four hubs are re-usable, but one rear hub had about an inch of radial play with no sign of any bearing rollers or cage. Both races were badly chewed and the hub was also damaged. It must have sounded lovely at the end of its use! Therefore I'll need to buy a new one. I've converted the scrapper into an adapter that enables me to fit brake disks into my lathe chuck. Using the scrap hub, I've "faced" the disks and blown them over with primer ready for re-use. They had plenty of "meat" on them. New pads, of course. I’ll re-use the callipers which are currently on the vehicle because they're in better condition. Subject to a detailed inspection after being de-rusted and cleaned, I expect to be able to re-use the front swivel pin housing/stub axle carrier. All ball joints on the "90" are good. The rear "A" frame ball joint is only a few thousand miles old. Now for a few questions if I may? · Are Britpart swivels worth fitting? I've seen opposing opinions on this. Paddock Spares has an offer on these at the moment and I'm tempted! · As with swivels, any thoughts on Britpart stub axles? · Do I need different front stub axles (different bearings size) to accept the Ashcroft CV joints? · Will early Defender 23 splice CV joints work with Ashcroft 24/23 spline front haft shafts? This would be an economy measure, but I'd buy genuine land Rover CVs, not aftermarket. · Ashcroft suggests omitting the rear axle oil seals to allow the diff oil to get right out to the drive flanges and so lubricate them. It seems like a good idea to me. Any thoughts? Many thanks! Jeff.