SacredDog
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Posts posted by SacredDog
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Most things these days do most things. I'v got an Intek one from X-Eng (the ~£100 one) and I have to say it's really good, and the speaker is loud & clear which goes a long awy in a LR.
Make that another vote for Intek.
I have the M-495 (but I use an Export spec one for 10m AM/FM Ham use rather than CB) and the H-520 Handheld which works perfectly well with the supplied mobile adapter for in-car use and even better with the addition of a fist Mic.
The H-520 is particularly useful to use handheld either in a convoy situation or away from the vehicle but I find the power soon drops to 1W when on re-chargable batteries although that seems plenty for a 1-2 mile range in the open.
Colin.
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Me and SWMBO both enjoy a spot of greenlaning and whilst I drive she navigates (very well I might add) with an OS map, now Im looking to get more hi-tech and would like a gps/notebook type set up that shows OS maps and what has already been travelled. Any reccomendations for kit appreciated? Links would be good too.
Mods, not sure if this is the right section or not so please move if appropriate.
My preferred combination is:
Garmin Trex (Summit in my case) and/or Bluetooth GPS
HP PDA (HX2750 in my case) and/or Laptop
Fugawi Mapping Software (UK Digital Maps and/or Global Navigator)
If I have a passenger then I prefer the Laptop with them doing the actual Navigating from that & I can just watch the Garmin (showing a pre-prepared route).
If I'm on my own I prefer the PDA just showing the OS Maps (either 1:25000 or 1:50000 when off-road, 1:50000 or 1:250000 when on-road), that shows just enough information for your immediate vicinity.
The Bluetooth GPS is useful if you don't want or need the added benefit of the Garmin.
The PDA and Garmin are particularly useful if you want to leave the Landy.
I find the above most flexible and can cope with most situations.
I also have a Smartphone that I can use with the Bluetooth GPS that I can use as a backup in case of any failures.
Colin.
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Like I said, drill the lock out. Then the cap remains good for the new lock, don´t just smash it with the screwdriver or something...
I had something broken off in mine (I presume from a failed attempt to unlock the cap to nick my petrol), the barrel was pretty mangled up. I found that with careful use of a Dremmel with the round ended bit in it,I could remove enough of the lock internals, such that any key/screwdriver would open it.
Colin.
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here is a link to led version of the NAS lamps
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/LED.html
I like the nas lamps and have just finished rebuilding a scrap 110 and these where a first choice, although I would have prefered the nato style ones with the screw off front!
I am another that thinks the NAS lights don't look right on older Landies, they look fine on shiny new ones (but if a Defender stays looking shiny & new for long,I don't think it is being used correctly;)).
I think the NATO screw-on ones look good and purposeful on both old & new though.
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In, unless you cant remember what tyres you have..........
Ahh, so that's why mine are on the outside, I'd forgotten.
Seriously, the first pair were fitted White Out without me asking (and I hadn't even given it any thought).
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It's ok to listen as long as you use receive only equipment.
It's ok to own a transmitter (with/without receive capability) as long as it's not installed (connected to a power source and to an antenna) or used.
See 'How licensing works' and 'Exemptions from licensing' at http://www.ofcom.org.uk/radiocomms/ifi/enforcement/law
My interpretation of the Ofcom rules is that you can use a Transceiver as 'Receive only equipment' if the Transmit is disabled.
On most mobile Amateur Radio's you can just remove the Mic and it will operate as 'Receive Only',unlike most CB's where removing the Mic disables receive as well. Just check you don't have any other buttons that can operate the Tx (like 1750Hz Tone or MOX).
My Callsign is M6XSD, hoping to upgrade to Intermediate in the New Year.
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I'm afraid I'm voting for half way.
I made a low cubby box that also acts as a terrier seat
Will
I did vote 'Cubby Box' as I think it would be useful but I must admit a centre seat was good when we only had one dog & I wanted to take the 'other half' along as well. Now we have two dogs the 'other half' has to stay at home.
Colin:)
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Catch up Ralph, it was old hat but now it's the future
On topic, I'd take up TJ's offer and have a drive in a couple of vehicles before buying one, Land Rovers are an acquired taste.
I must disagree with Fridge on this one, I think you either Love or Hate Land Rovers (I don't think there is anything acquired about it). Most people can tell within a few miles one way or the other. Although I have heard that some people can learn to live with them (if they have to) but never really Love them.
Colin.
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130's are quite rare, mainly because they're a bit on the long side for normal use (in other words, you've got to really need the length to buy one). Depending on your budget Ex-MOD Rapier V8 130's come ready made.
A Range Rover is a good base for most projects 'cos it's so cheap to buy one with good underpinnings and a rusty body, but I wouldn't say it's a good idea to build a 110 or 130 out of one due to the chassis mods and loadings. 110's & 130's have Salisbury back axles rated to take more weight, I'd say to do it properly you'll want to do the same thing - especially if you plan to SVA it.
Early 110's (especially V8's) don't fetch much cash, so between a derelict 110 (body panels & running gear) a rusty RR or Disco (for engine/box/front axle/PAS as required) and maybe a nice galvanised chassis you could have a fairly complete kit of parts for ~£3k and probably finish the truck to a good standard for £4-5k. Or buy a decent 110 or 130 for £5k, save a lot of time and just fix/rennovate things as required.
I agree totally with Fridge, if you want a 130 go for one that is based on a Ex-MOD Rapier V8 130. I have a MY94 (K Reg) that has had the back converted into a 'Box Van' and that has the 'One Piece' chassis (as opposed to the earlier extended 110). I think that genuine Defender 130's (as opposed to Land Rover 127's) were all 'One Piece', have the benefit of the HD Disc Braked Salisbury Rear Axle and therefore greater Load Carrying ability.
Colin.
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& I did say AS FAR AS I KNOW, there is NO UK requirement for any tones CTCSS or DCS on UK CB frquencies simply because CB does not use repeaters like amatuer radio uses.
I wondered what AFAIK meant
, I've learnt something today .I think my Rig has CTCSS because it is a 'Multi-Standard' International Rig.
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I know because I tried to do it
Defender tailcasting & shifter mechanism:
Range Rover / Disco tailcasting & shifter mechanism:
This will apply to all engines as, ratios aside, the gearboxes are the same thing. As far as I know, all the cogs and bits are interchangeable.
Thanks Fridge, I assumed you had tried
. That's good to know, so one would always be handy to keep for spares for the other then.
Those pictures might come in useful in future
.Cheers,
Colin.
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AM was used in the USA & over here, prior tp the UK Legal FM cb coming into use, AFAIK no CB rigs have CTCSS tones in them & I don't think there is any CTCSS requirement for CB transcievers either UK or Euro/CEPT types. you may have over heard a 10metre Ham users transmiting which is lose to CB 27 Mhz frquencies like this 10 metre rig for example
No Miserableolgit, I haven't put my 'TwoPenceWorth' in yet
Sorry to disagree with you Western (I do make a habit of doing that sometimes) but a few modern CB's have CTCSS, my Intek M-495 certainly has (it's not that easy to set up & use though).
Anyway, my money (if I were a betting man) would be on the two sets of users using different modes (one on AM the other on FM).
73's,
Colin
M6XSD.
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Gearsticks can't be moved as the tail casting is different between RR/Disco and Defender. Ask me how I know.
How do you know? (well you did ask).
Does that apply to V8's as well as TDi's?
Just out of interest as I have LT77S's in both my Defender 130 & Rangie and was wondering (as you do) what is compatible.
Cheers,
Colin.
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have you used it abroad did you get the car charger how far would you say the distance is on it sorry for all these questions
No I haven't used it abroad yet (& probably wont for quite a while). It doesn't come with a Car Charger, the lead that comes with it powers it from the Lighter Socket (you have to remove a battery to avoid damaging the adapter) and provides an SO239 socket for the aerial so you can have it permanently attached to the Car & just remove a battery and connect it & you are running Mobile.
I'm sure it could be modified to work as a Charger but I haven't looked into that yet.
I've got a good 2-3 miles out of it Handheld and 5+ miles easily Mobile.
The problem with Handheld on Rechargable batterys is that once the voltage drops below a certain level it will drop to 1W output. I don't think you have that problem with Non-rechargable because of the higher voltage (when it drops to 1W with them they have had it).
Hope that helps,
Colin.
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hi i really could do with some advice i am thinking of buying a intek h520 plus handheld cb has anyone got one or used one
Yep, I've got an Intek H-520, it's an excellent little Handheld.
Colin.
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My current 110 has anti roll bars fitted back and front, this is my 3rd 110 and also had a few 90's but the 1st land rover Ive had with anti roll bars fitted? Why do some have them fitted and some not? Whats are there advantages/disadvantages if any?
I think the others that have replied have covered the advantages and disadvantages pretty well.
What I have heard some people have done is make them removable (at the axle end) such that when they are not in use they are bolted up out of the way.
I certainly wouldn't like to run my 130 fully laden without at least the rear fitted but I would like the option of undoing them when it is unladen and I am likely to take it off road, so this is something I would like to try but have never got around to doing yet.
Cheers,
Colin.
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I fitted new polyurethane bump stops a while back (the orange deflex extended ones). However I do not have a lift kit nor huge tyres and want to cut them down to the proper size which I forgot to measure before binning the remaining old ones I removed!! I think there 30mm higher than standard? Anyone know?
Cheers!
Attached is a picture of a Standard one against a tape measure if that is any help.
I wouldn't mind swapping my standard pair for your extended if your interested but you would have to wait until I get the other one off which I doubt I will be able to do for at least another week.
Cheers,
Colin.
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Now there's a bright idea - after-all, B) its not much more than that really. I guess looking at it, with a bit of artistic welding license, could be done.
I don't really want to find myself disagreeing with Ralph (he is normally right about most things) but I would have thought it would have been quite possible with a bit of cutting of access holes for any nuts/bolts.
Whether it is worth the hassle when the right part is available is another debate
.If anyone does attempt this, I and I'm sure many others would be interested in how you get on & ideally with lots of pictures of exactly how you did it.
Cheers,
Colin.
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just cutaway the rusted parts & the double skinned section, then weld or rivet in new material. welded would be best [more water tight than rivetted]
Surely you don't want a watertight footwell
, if you did you would have to open the doors to let the water out, most inconvenient Colin.
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OK, question asked. I presume I am wanting 50mm of Shank?
My finishing touch would be a small amount of Clear Silicon Rubber in the Hex to keep the crud out. There is nothing worse that spending ages trying to dig out that small stone thats wedged in the head.
Colin.
I didn't get an answer to my question But I order a couple anyway as I wanted some other bolts he was selling.
Unfortunately they didn't have a shank on them
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(and there are heavier wires one is black and one is brown which are also circular female couples)
I'm not certain but I think Blank is Battery -ve and Brown permanent +12v but I don't think they are used behind my Dash (94MY V8).
Colin.
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I've just bought a NATO hitch, but it turns out that what I've got is one of the bigger versions (7 tonne? 10 tonne?) which I believe are normally used on big trucks.
Will it bolt up to a Defender rear cross-member or is it just too big and, Defender-wise, useless?
Try to find someone to swap it for the Smaller one, I believe they will fit onto a lot of the Dixon Bate sliders which have the option of the square arrangement of holes (one of mine has but my other two have the rectangular arrangement). I would quite happily swap with you if you were more local.
Colin.
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A well set-up steering should not need a damper for most normal road work. If yours is knackered it must be taken as a sign that there is another underlying problem.
Yep I agree with that but as I found a faulty damper will only make any possibly minor problems worse.
I did briefly try mine without the faulty damper to see if it made it better or worse & it did improve matters slightly (I could at least manage to hold onto the Steering Wheel and keep some control).
Colin.
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My front end starts shaking at around 70 kph. In the Jeep world we call that the "Death Wobble". Whatever it's called in the LR world, I need to get a handle on it. Stock springs, stock size tires. Tires are balanced, lug nuts are tight. I plan to replace all 4 shocks and the steering dampener. You fellas think that will do the trick?
In my case it was a combination of Steering Damper (only working well in one direction), Panhard Rod bushes and Steering UJ's.
I changed them in that order, it became drivable above 40mph after changing the Steering Damper, then almost perfect after the bushes the the steering UJ's finally did the trick.
I think in my case each one on it's own wasn't too bad but put them all together and it was lethal.
The first time I tried to drive through it & the Steering Wheel was wrenched out of my hands
. and I had to come to a complete stop before it stopped.Colin.
, I've learnt something today 
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, if you did you would have to open the doors to let the water out, most inconvenient 
CB Radio
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Make that another vote for doing the Foundation Course & Exam. The 2m Band running 10W into a decent 5/8wave mobile antenna (about the same size as the average Mobile CB antenna) blows the socks off of CB for local use (up to 50miles simplex and double that through a repeater). But like you say you can only talk to other Amateurs.
You can get CBs that when in export spec can cover both CB & 10m band like the Intek H-520 but you have to turn it off and back on (with Menu pushed in the case of the H-520) to select the different bands.
The Intek M-495 is similar but also runs more power in Export spec so only legal to use on the 10m band. And not many Hams use 10m until the sunspots are very active, so even less people to talk to.
Also the 10m AM/FM band is not much better than CB even with 10W available (2.5 times the power is less than one S point) apart from the lack of 'bucket mouths'of course.
I would still recommend the H-520 Handheld though which works perfectly well with the supplied mobile adapter for in-car use and even better with the addition of a fist Mic for either CB or 10m use.
Colin
2E0XSD.