SacredDog
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Posts posted by SacredDog
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Last night i booked a night off from work as the weather was nice and went to drive stanage edge greenlane.
on the way home we went back via the main road which i think is snake pass. anyway my buddy was up front in a 90, i was behind in my ibex doing 50mph. Then out of nowhere came two head lights from the other side of the road! bang!
The ibex span 150 degree and then rolled backwards into the armco lining the road! eye witnesses/people who had been over taken by the little twazzoc said he was doing well over 80mph so a combined impact speed of 130mph, NICE!
so, im rushed to hospital on a spine board after about 40mins assessing the damage to the motor and going to see the other car etc, adrenalin took over i think as im in a world of pain now!
what should i do as reguards to an insurance claim?
is it common practice that i insist the car be repaired as it wasnt my fault? or can it only be written off and paid out?
The damage that we could see at the scene was, two bent axles, a trashed gearbox (transfer box ripped off), the radius arm mounting pushed through, the front wing/headlight/grill structure bent alot!, bent trailing arm, punctured sump (i killed the engine imedatley).
it would be a major repair and would have to be done at foers or maddisons imo.
how should i go about claiming for the damage?
The other car was very bad, the drivers side was pretty much ripped off, A piller, door, door pillar and rear quarter , rear wheel were totally removed. the driver was alive at the scene but wasnt good the passenger did a runner onto the moors (not a good sign).
Im just glad i was in the ibex, i dont think id have been in a very good shape otherwise, cheers Mr Foers.
If at all possible get it away from your insurance company and any garages they are in league with and don't part with any documents relating to the car. We lost a car that way, it went to a garage to be 'assessed' and before we knew it it had been shipped of to a scrapyard because it was 'beyond repair' in their eyes. We then had to argue as to it's value. Somewhere in their small print it said that once the vehicle was in their possession or one of their agents (one of their recommended garages) then it was entirely up to them what happened to it subject to an independent valuation (or words to that effect).
Assuming you have or can find somewhere to keep it, hang on to it (saying you want to buy it back subject to valuation, even if you don't want to). You then have something to bargain with and should get the maximum value for it and pay the minimum for what is left of the wreckage, they can't have it both ways.
The final icing on the cake, was when (a few years later) we received a Speeding Ticket for the vehicle that had been supposedly written off. The wonderful Insurance Company didn't inform DVLA about the write off and it looks like the breakers yard re-built it. It was a good job we kept all the relevant paperwork to copy to the Police (who were very interested in what had happened).
Best of Luck (I fear you will need it dealing with insurance companies),
Colin.
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Rather than worry about what it is called I would ring http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/ (Ashtrans on here) and tell him what has happened and he will be able to supply all you need to fix it and advice along the way.
Steve
Yep, good idea Steve and/or send Dave a PM.
You could use the picture from MicroCat http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?act=atta...st&id=20791 to describe exactly what's broken.
Colin
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Well thanks for the help all and your right the oil pump be buggered! I had a spare box that was given to me so i raped it for the pump and turns out that too had been broken in exactly the same way! Looks like shopping time! Its the gear on the oil pump, looks like the small lugs on the side have been broken off by the TC from miss alignment. I dont suppose any one know the real name for this doo hicky so I know what to ask about for? Thanks.
Is the attached any use?
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So how could it knacker the box if its too loose?
I read it somewhere. Off the top of my head I think the Kickdown mechanism directly controls the oil pressure, if the cable is far too loose I think it blows up some clutches.
I'll see if I can find the 'definitive answer', probably on the Ashcroft site somewhere.
Colin.
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colin,
Where about u find that picture mate?
As PaintMan said look here: http://www.green-oval.com it's in the RAVE for RRC, I just cut & pasted the 2 relevant pages together.
Colin.
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got a little problem with it, its a 3.5t beavertail
last year when i bought it the damper in the tow hitch was totaly shot so i replaced it and all has been fine since.
recently though,
when lightly braking you get the sensionation that the brakes are pulsing (ie on,off,on,off) and you can feel it through the car,
also when braking with no weight on the brakes seem to lock very easily,
anyone ever had anything like this?
Ian
That sounds a bit like the problem I had after replacing a Joiner in the cable on my trailer (not an Ifor though). On mine I solved the pulsing by reducing the slack before the brakes start to operate. I think the cause was the Landy slowing substantially more that the trailer (when loaded) and in effect running into the back then the trailers brake suddenly coming on hard. It was most noticeable when just easing off the throttle when going downhill, the harder I braked the less it was noticable. I think I now have about 1cm of movement before the brake start to apply compared with about 2.5 before.
The brakes locking when unladen still happens now but bu no means as bad. It's worst when the road is slightly bumpy, I get the impression that the suspension is just way over-damped when unladen.
Colin.
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I split the cooler hoses and sure enough no flow out of them, not even a drop and the oil level in the dipstick hasnt budged. This does spell out broken oil pump i know but is there any other possabilites? I did bolt the TC onto the box first and the engine did bolt up the box without too much hassle. Im kinda needing it this weekend so willing to try lots of stuff without having to take the box out. Is the oil pump a box rebuild and lota of hard work?
:( :( From what I've read (see attached) it's not that difficult to replace the pump.
Colin.
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I have just got the 3.9 engine and auto box in my S3 hybrid and run the engine up today but im not gettting any drive from the box. During the install some oil was lost from the box and all most all from the torque converter. Before running it up I topped up the oil using the dip-stick and it didnt seem to take that much so i started the engine and tried all the gears but no drive to the output flanges (props not on yet). I know very little about auto boxes and need it all working for the weekend and im worried i may have broken something from starting the engine! Once the engine had run the oil level hadn't gone down at all. How does the torque converter get the oil, do i need to fill it up manually and have i broken it?
Thanks for any help in advance!
I'm no expert but having converted a Defender to Auto (not entirely successfully i might add) it sounds like you have damaged the Oil Pump when you fitted the Torque Converter.
Hopefully Dave (AshTrans) will see this & give you some expert advice. Failing that it might be worth PMing him.
I'll see what Ielse I can find out & post something tomorrow, unless some others more knowledgeable get there first.
Colin.
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Thanks Roverdrive,
Its very much a case of learning as i go with this one so thanks for the clear information. From what i can now understand the choke has been removed and fitted with a manual cable operated one. This is also disconnected. (previous owner)
My understanding (which is probably wrong) is that the only water inlet to the carb is via the choke. If i fit this it cools the carb?? Im unsure if i attached this can i just set it to cool the carb constantly and remove auto choke?? Do i need to do this at all? The more you guys input i think the carb is icing so how do i then heat the carb? Is that take a pipe from the exhaust manifolds? I dont have a clue where to start if im honest. The air filter is a bit shabby and could do with a good clean or maybe even replace also dont know if that makes a difference.
The fuel line would be 5ft roughly to the tank at front of boat. Fuel line is front of engine so not close too exhaust.
As I think I said before, I reduced the icing problem on my Fiesta by fitting a 'baffle' to direct some of the hot air from the exhaust towards the Air Filter. Being a Transverse Engine this was quite easy just a flat piece of metal over the top of the exhaust.
I think the ideal temperature at the inlet is something like 34 degrees C, you may be able to rig up something like some cars have that regulate the inlet temperature, most just use a bimetal temperature sensor near the carb inlet that uses the vacuum from the engine to control a flap that varies the flow of Cold fresh air and Hot air from the exhaust. I'm sure you could raid a scrappy for an old carb inlet system.
Colin.
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how many lanyards for lynch pins do you need, we have wire ones covered with heatshrink at work, should be able to grab some tomorrow
on my tow pin lynch pins I use brass chain like you'd use in the bathroom for the plugs, B+Q stock it on reels.
Now I feel stupid, I never realise what was in the picture
There was someone selling some on eBay dirt cheap a while back complete with the pin (saves all the pain as well
).Colin.
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Had my 90 for about 2 1/2 years now. It's got a 3.5 Efi and 4 sp auto. I've just been having a mooch in the engine bay-as you do,
and have noticed there is only one pipe connected to the radiator expansion tank. It goes from the rad, near the filler cap, to the
bottom connector of the expansion tank. The top pipe at the neck of the expansion tank is just vented to the open air.
There is a second pipe (cut-off and capped) from the radiator. The needle on the temp gauge goes up to about the 2/3 to 3/4 mark.
It doesn't appear to overheat or blow any steam from the filler cap. I've attached a couple of photos to help.
Should I do anything with these pipes or just leave alone ?
Thanks, Jon
Looks just like what we have on our '88 3.5EFI, it's just a normal expansion tank. It will up when the Water expands and the water siphons back out when it contracts. Looks just right from what I can see in the pics.
Colin.
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So I run an open front and a Truetrac in the back and would argue that if anything that improves steering in the mud, not least of all because you can use the throttle to help induce some oversteer.
Yep, I can see that would work well at a reasonable speed. But most of my problems are steering out of muddy ruts from a standstill, does your rear TrueTrac help with that situation?
That said, if I was going back locker first I would probably go for a Detroit.
I'm just interested in your views as I doubt I would ever be able to afford to get lockers both back & front in one go.
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If I was going to put just one tricky diff in, I'd opt for putting it in the back.
I'm probably in the minority but if I had a free Truetrac I would put it in the front (so I had some steering in the mud).
And then start saving for a Detroit to go in the Back
.Colin.
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After cursing rounded nipples (oo-er) while bleeding my brakes at the weekend, I guess I need to replace them. Question is, what size thread are they? It's a 300Tdi 90 (discs all round, non-vented)
Thanks
AD90
I don't know about Diesel 90's but all the V8 110 Land Rovers, 130 Defenders and RRC's have been M10 Metric requiring an 11mm spanner.
If that's any help.
Colin.
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Great to see a new area of the forum just for Ralph the human part number machine!
I have a request which isn't for part numbers but is for a supplier of parts and I hope this would be the correct place to ask?
My best description would be a cable/string loop sleeve and a thing with a hole in it, confused? I thought so, let a picture speak a thousand words...
thanks,
Hedley
Trailer Breakaway Cable perhaps?
Colin.
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The pressure drop in the venturi of the carburettor will also cause a temperature drop (can't remember the name of the law!)
Under humid conditions, carb icing is possible regardless of temperature - within reason. Certainly you won't get it in 30 degrees of Med sunshine, but 6-7 degrees in the UK, in moist sea air...perfectly possible.
However, my gut also points to ignition...
I can confirm the icing with my Fiesta was at it's worst when the temperature was above 0 degrees. Below 0 and I think the air tends to be dry enough for it not to be a problem.
I had a quick release Air Filter (Pipercross I think). If I whipped the Filter off just after it had totally died the main venturi would be almost totally blocked with ice, until the first time I saw that ice I didn't have a clue what the problem was.
One quick & easy way I used to get it defrosted (for when I didn't want to wait 5-10 mins) was to squirt some alcohol (the type you degrease with, not drink) into the venturi, that dissolved the ice and allowed the water to mix with the petrol a bit easier. It would then fire up almost instantly.
Colin.
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That's pretty much what we made. I used to get problems with icing until the engine had warmed up but it was never a problem 20 mins into running. I would have thought any problems with icing would manifest fairly quickly and not once the engine had reached a higher temp?
I used to get Carb icing problems on my old highly tuned crosssflow Fiesta, on a cold damp day travelling at continuous Motorway speeds it would start coughing after 20-30 mins and die altogether after about 40 mins unless I slowed down considerably or pulled over for 5-10 mins.
After 5-10 mins (ideally with the Filter off) it would fire up & run fine for another 30 mins or so.
Of course this was many years ago when you could run at high speeds for over half an hour without hitting a traffic jam
.I did improve matter by fitting a heat deflector above the exhaust that pushed some hot air towards the Carb.
Colin.
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I was called to rescue another member of the family today. My mother had got her 110 stuck in a rather wet fields with a stock trailer full of sheep attached.
The 110 is a 2006 Td5 model with traction control and ABS. It only has the factory fitted 235/85x16 General Grabber APs, so not great in this situation anyway.
I did manage to drive it out eventually with plenty of right foot, having unhitched the trailer, but I was not convinced that there was much help coming from the TC. I was under the impression that there would be some audible signs of the TC doing its thing, but none were heard.
What evidence should I expect to prove that it's working? The TC light on the dash was lit up. Diff lock was engaged too, tried high and low box.
As the 110 will soon be 3 years old I would like to have any malfunctions fixed before the warranty expires.
TIA
I'm no expert but looking at the handbook:
If the TC light was always on even when you weren't spinning wheels I think it indicates a fault, see attached page from the manual.
The other possibility is that if all 4 wheels were spinning then the TC may not be detecting enough of a differential in wheel speeds to operate correctly.
Colin.
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I can't remember the exact details when I asked Dave Ashcroft about the compusihift and locking up, but I do remember that it wont help low range enging braking. I don't think it will lock up in 1st?
As I said, I can't remember so we'd better wait for Dave to come along and put me straight!
Yep, having looked at various websites (including Daves) it looks like it will not lock up in 1st (I guess you don't want it to stall if you have the TC locked up when you have to stop). I would have thought that 2nd Gear Low Box would give enough engine braking for most situations, even our old V8 RRC wouldn't completely run away with me in 2nd Low on fairly steep bits with the standard ZF4 (perhaps I wasn't trying hard enough
)Hopefully Dave can confirm this, or let us know that none of us mere mortals know what we are talking about
Colin.
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Colin,
It's been a couple of summers since I did mine so my memory is a bit rusty
However IIRC, the low level light is switched by the damping circuitry and as such would not need the gauge for it to work. How well it would work with your sender on your LPG tank would be a matter for experimentation 
The point I was trying (rather badly
) to make in the earlier post above is that you couldn't run the sender signals from 2 tanks through one damping circuit However, there are several unused lights on the TD5 cluster, why not use the damped gauge and warning lamp for one tank and one of the other unused lamps as a low level warning for the other ?
Perhaps that clarifys things
Mo
Thanks Mo & Western,
I think we've got there in the end.
I certainly think from what you've both said there is definitely potential there for it to do exactly what I want (perhaps with a few resistors to tweak my LPG sender output). I'm not too concerned what the actual Low Level indicates (litre wise) so long as I know roughly what it is and it's not something ridiulous like 60litres (but I could always invert it to something useful if need be).
That's something to think about anyway and gives me another excuse to get a Td5 speedo
Cheers,
Colin.
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Autobox = speedy decents regardless of diff ratios!!
Doesn't the Compushift allow you to manually lockup the TC irrespective of what gear it's in to give you some decent engine braking?
or is it a bit more complicated than that? or was I just dreaming?
Colin
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I don't know for the proposed use you want it for, my reply above is what I found on my 110 with the Td5 speedo/wiring.
OK, thanks.
Perhaps when I'm feeling brave (and can justify the expense) I will get a Speedo and have a little play around with it to see if I can get it to do what I want.
I think I will go back to just reading the Forums for the rest of the day
Cheers,
Colin.
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Colin,
The low fuel light works from the signal from the tank (but separately from the gauge) but using the level signal rather than the old light on bit of the sender. IIRC it is wired internally so I don't think you can do what you want to as the gauge and light use the same signal..
Sorry
Quick edit to say that having just checked the wiring diagram, it won't work.
Mo
OK, I think I'm getting more & more confused now (perhaps it's just getting too late in the day and my brain has started to shut down for the day).
I'll see if I can ask some simple questions for which even I can understand the answer
Do I need a Guage of some sort for the Low Fuel Light output generated by the Speedo to work?
If I need a Guage Do you think I could simulate a Guage by using a suitable Resistor instead?
Sorry if I'm being too thick.
Colin.
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AFAIK, the Td5 low fuel light takes it's signal from the in tank sender unit & then it is passed through the speedo head which has a internal damoing circuit [to stop the fuel gauge needle & light moving around like demented thing] this circuit also controls the low fuel light in the warning light cluster, on mine because I've kept the original warning light cluster, I've left the low fuel light as it was, I tried it through the speedo & it would work with the normal bulb type warning light, should be fine if/when I change to the Td5 warning light cluster.
Sorry (I'm probably being think) but are you saying 'Yes I don't need a Fuel Guage and can just use a Low Fuel Light' or 'No I need a Guage' or 'You don't know for sure'.
If I can run it without a guage then I would probably be best making use of the dampening circuit for the 'Low LPG' warning light as the LPG sloshes about a hell of a lot (and I've got used to the Petrol guage waving about). It will just be a bit hit & miss what the Low LPG level actually equates to, but I can probably adjust it with a few suitable resistors.
Colin
:( 
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kickdown.....
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
I too have read somewhere (I thought it was on Ashcrofts Site) that you should never drive with a disconnected cable because it directly controls the main pressure that works (among other things) the clutches and needs to have a certain amount of tension to avoid burning them out (I should imagine the other extreme would give very harsh changes as well). But I can't find where it was I read it to that sort of detail, the best I can find is the 'don't drive without cable connected warning'.
I discovered to my cost that the cable fitted to mine was damaged (was only hanging on by a couple of strands), I only managed to drive out of my drive & turn it around before I lost drive in reverse. After changing the cable I found it works OK on the flat but slips like mad up even the slightest incline (at the time my drive had quite a slope).
Colin.