Disco-Ron
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Posts posted by Disco-Ron
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If 90..remove the drivers seat baseand check the fuel pipes at the top of the tank. Not unheard of for them to corrode and end up with pin holes. Which leads to sucking air not fuel.....
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Probably due to them not being the original shock mount..... I'd remove the inner washer and pack out as needed with flat washers.
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Not on the cv it isn't.... but on the inner point of the flange it is...
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A yr or so ago I bought a pair of their drive flanges..... the spline engineering was shocking.... the spline were not pointed... meaning the contact area between them and the cv was tiny..... I didn't even bother fitting them.....
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I recently had a vehicle tested that had been sorned and out of mot over the winter...... I taxed it online before I even left the testing station...... so instant!!
I also bought a brand new vehicle last week and transferre ownership online and taxed it before I left the dealership...
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Perfectly normal for the front prop to rotate slightly ..... there are lots of splined joints that have slop... the rear is tight due to handbrake clamping it....
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i ended up using a defender gear.. in t case. D1 short cable to speed transducer..... and nas spec top part which was ludicrously expensive for a cable... but itfitted and worked. The oy other isdue i found wasthat the discovery and defender appeared to use different size square drives on the short cable.... so i got speedy cables (not very speedy!) To make an inner with the bigger square on it....
You may find that with the 98 being i guess a serpentine front... it might have the electronic speed transducer on the transfer box... quite how people get round that im not sure.... probably just replace it with a full cable and ignore telling the ecu you'r moving.....
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Excuse my ignorance.... but don't flapper ecus have 2 rows of connectors... and hotwire 3.....?.
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Boltlocker......
It could actually be applied to almost any bolt application....
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Try ringing exmoor trim....
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My first check given this scenario would be to check that the vacuum advance is working.... a small pipe going from the dizzy to inlet plenum... remove it from the inlet plenum and suck on it.... it should feel restricted... if you can suck n suck on it the rubber diaphragm is split hence not advancing the ignition.....
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Dave.... according to the Ashcroft sote the 'late rears' are different to thier Salisbury option....
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My 2p worth....
You won't get that shaft into the diff end if you shorten it..... the twist won't go in the planet/sun gear.....
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The outer skin is spot welded to the inner arch flange.... so unless you can spotweld you'll end up riveting it....
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In my mind the max angle of the uj is more dependant on the yoke its fitted to....
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The wolf just uses standard defender seats.....
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It will certainly work... its been done numerous times...
The key to futureproofing the vehicle is to fit the engine in factory position... that way bits are easier.....
You can but 300mounts with a jig to llne it up....
If you use the disco gearbox as it is the main lever willcome up through the front of the seatbox....
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That would be the ideal.... assuming the engine mounts go on the right place for a factory 300.... the seatbox will be cut anyway unless he plans on fitting a defender gearlever or adaptor....
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Um..... thats not a d2 chassis... its a d1 300tdi.....
Anyway. Yes. Axles and suspension arms will swap straight over.... the original dront arms may not fit the disco axle so just use the disco ones.....
The discovery will have a 3 bolt flange on the diff end... you'll need to change the flange and get a suitable prop...
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Whats inside the dizzy..... that may help
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Brilliant!
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99% of the time its panhard rod bushes.... get someone to wobble the steering wheel while you look at each end...
Diff slap
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
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Pinion to crownwheel.....
Planet gears to each other....
driveshaft to spine in output gear....
Outer end of shaft to cv...
Cv itself...
Cv outer to flange....
There can be slack in all these places.....