[Fuel tank fitting problem]

Having spent hours and hours removing my fuek tank I now have a new one from Tim Fry landrovers. It won't go in though. Keep gettin git to within about an inch, but no luck.

It's a 1990 Defender 90 Diesel. Any ideas?

I had to remove the side sill, and the inner channel to get mine out, very tight fit. Had to shear/cut every bolt on my project 97 Def 90.

It looked to me as if 'they' put the body on after the tank.

It gave me the chance to make a realy nice job of it, with all new stainless nuts, bolts, and washers, everything in lashings of Waxoil, and 'galvy' rocksliders.

I wasn't pleased at first though.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

As per Ralphs response.

The ones I recently bought were labelled:

Timken LM603049 (cone) LM603011 (cup) wheel bearings STC4382G / RTC3429G

LM603049 M2 TT X0297 (cone)

LM603011 M2 TT X0297 (cup)

Jon

Those are the same NOs that I now have, under a Bearmach no. of RTC3429. This no. is now NLA from LR!! STC4382 now being the one to use. O well.

Thanks again.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

As per Ralphs response.

The ones I recently bought were labelled:

Timken LM603049 (cone) LM603011 (cup) wheel bearings STC4382G / RTC3429G

LM603049 M2 TT X0297 (cone)

LM603011 M2 TT X0297 (cup)

Jon

Many thanks for that.

The two bearing kits arrived by yesterdays 'post', Royal mail 'next day delivery', £9.50. So I must take back what I said about carriage charges/delivery.

I think I have had excellent service from Paddock.

Not had time to check the NOs yet.

Best regards.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

thats expensive carriage, good price gor the bearings though.

Yerrrr. And they are Timkin as well. 'Carriage',well, I live with it all the time, Royal mail is best, I would get it next day as like as not, and that little lot would have cost about £7. were-as, it may take a week by courier, and it's no use trying to change a 'company's policy'by asking nicely', I have found...

At least the Landy gets fixed.

All the best.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

Hi all.

Just ordered everything for both sides from Paddock for £63.70. Bearings were £7.00 each x4. But my Highland carriage Was £18.40.

O well,

Thanks again to all.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

unlucky I would say

just remembered I've got a pair of LR part number RTC3429 Timken hub bearings in the garage, got the box it says

LM603049 20024

LM603011 11

inner bearing track has LM603049 engraved into it

outer bearing track has LM603011 engraved on it

these are for my 1989 110CSW

HTH

So it looks as if the No. is LM603049, dyerthink???

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

Various Timken bearing cats here, upper right download should get you the right numbers.

http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/Pages/Catalogs.aspx

Thanks again Ralph.

Well beyond your 'call of duty'.

Just ploughing through it all now.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

2 each of the same bearing in front & rear hubs.

Thanks for that Ralph.

How about both sides going at the same time eh. statisticaly they should, if they have the same usage, but we dont expect it, do we?

Many thanks.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

Just thought I'd mention that when I recently replaced my rear wheel bearings I thought I'd pop down my local bearing suppliers and buy them cheaper by quoting a Timken number rather than LR part number; and I was disappointed.

In the end Paddocks could supply Timken boxed items for less that I could buy from Simply Bearings, Bearing Boys or any of my local places, even taking delivery into account.

May be of help, I dunno...

Well, it is of help, very much so, and it's what I suspected, thats why I wanted the bearing NOs so I could find out just the sort of thing that you have already found out for me.

As long as they are branded bearings (as you say) from Paddocks, then I dont mind getting them from them. I always like to do my 'home-work' before though.

Many thanks.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

Hi Howard,

On my '91 200 tdi, the bearing are the same, front and back.

The numbers I quoted are what is written on one Timkin bearing box, I don't know what they mean, but thought they would make sense to a Timkin person. I assume the last number is the date of manufacture.

Sorry I've no number for the oil seal.

Ok, thanks a lot Gromit, nice try anyway...

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

Many thanks Gromit.

So thats for two sizes of bearing, and Can I take it that the third number, is for the oil seal?

Thanks again.

Howard.

Hi again Gromit.

Just looked in my parts book and found that RTC3429 is now STC4382...

But only one pt.no. for all the bearings so that means they are both the same size/type (front and rear).

Can you remember why you have two bearing nos.?

Oil seal is FTC4785.

Thanks again.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

If the bearings haven't changed since a '91 200tdi which uses RTC3429, then this Timkin box in front me says the following:

LM603049 ------------------------------------ 9X049

LM603011

200704

Many thanks Gromit.

So thats for two sizes of bearing, and Can I take it that the third number, is for the oil seal?

Thanks again.

Howard.

[200 tdi bottom pulley removal]

i know its not been glued on or anything, because i put the pulley on when i did the cambelt a few years ago.

its funny how some people say to glue it, some say grease it. i did neither and now it wont come off

i'm off out today to buy/rent a puller, probably a hydraulic one. its something i've needed a few times on boats, its about time i got one

The application of 'grease' or 'Glue' to the pully bore are attempts to avoid 'fretting corrosion' at that place.

This type of corrosion takes place when two parts vibrate together at a microscopic level, it may even cause the formation of chemicals.

I have found the use of lubricants in these static joints to be less effective than sealing/bonding, in the longer term.

As you used 'nothing' last time, that could well be why you now find it rusted on so badly.

It's a common engineering problem, but not widely understood.

Also, it's a wee bit of a wet windy, rusty, place up front there on a Landy, and that can't help us.

Good luck with the new puller, I know full well it's a 'barstewerd' when we get trapped like this.

Howard.

[Def. Rear wheel bearings.]

Hello all.

Can some kind person give me the Timkin, or Skf bearing NOs (not the LR pt NOs, sorry Ralph) for the rear wheel bearings on my 1997 300Tdi Def. Also the oil seal no.

I can then get all of the parts in before I start the job.

The 'noises' started/came and went over the last few weeks, and were harder than I expected to properly identify (I thought I had damaged the center diff on a recent difficult boat recovery epic).

When I got it in the air on a 'wheels free ramp', and up to 50 mph in top gear, with me underneath it, all became clear; BOTH sets of rear wheel bearings noisy! Thats a personal first, nice and symmetrical.

Many thanks.

Howard.

[How is this for a riddle]

Just as an experiment, try lubricating (with a squirt oil can) the ends of the coil springs where they seat.

On some cars the coils can twist under heavy deflection and cause a 'funny noise'.

It's simple and cheap to try.

Howard.

[200 tdi bottom pulley removal]

I can't vouch for the difflock tools, but they certainly look like what you need.

"Cheap" cambelt jobs invariably involve the crank bolt being "gunned" up, this gets it nowhere near the 250 lb ft it needs to be. The pulley then works loose. Depends how long it's been run as to the damage. I've seen plenty with minor damage and the pulley has just been put back on with bearing fit (high grade). A few have been really bad and the crank has been smeared with quick metal and the pulley, often a new one, bolted back.

Heat will break the bond, you just need enough of it and a constant pull while you're doing it.

A light smear of loctite in the pulley bore on reassembly is often recommended, only needs to be a light/medium grade though.

Here-Here.

Howard.

[200 tdi bottom pulley removal]

A 'decent' puller will work even if is it has been Loctited (Nut lock grade).

If a very heavy, or 'shaft recovery' grade has been used, then it could be a problem.

Do a search for DIFFLOCK timing belt renewal. They do a very good guide, also they do a very good kit of tools that some people say you dont need, but I think it's best to have good gear on these jobs. They do a very good puller in the kit.

In their guide, they recommend the use of Loctite on the pully bore.

On the planet that I come from, when a front pulley comes loose it chews up the front of the crank shaft and it's never the same again.

When you have experienced that, you will do everything to stop it next time.

Good luck.

Howard.

[Out Rigger To Body Bracket Gone Wrong]

What is jointing compound and where to buy??

Now that I am using aluminium as the repair panel is it still important?

Does grease really absorb water?

Thanks again..........

Ordinary grease is a good lubricant, but not the best corrosion inhibitor (but better than nothing). traditionly it was made by mixing soap with oil!

and this is why traditionly, Vaseline (petrolium jelly) is recomended for battery terminals (I now use Waxoil).

If you take the lid off a tin of lithium grease, put a steel bolt into it, leave it out in the rain for a few weeks, you will find that the rust from the bolt will diffuse through the grease.

I now use silicone grease for all sorts of things like the corrosion on the engine sump, and the diff pans, withstands the heat, and works well, I use 'waterproof' boat trailer wheel bearing grease for less demanding jobs, good stuff...

Recently a guy on one of these forums used 'damp proof course' (DPC) as an anti corrosion gasket, sounds good to me.

Howard.

O, and I would do what Ralph does.

[Out Rigger To Body Bracket Gone Wrong]

Thanks Ralph

Over night I have found a suitable piece of aluminium sheet.

Would that eliminate the need for jointing compound?

Is this repair going to be strong enough.

I was thinking of putting in quite a large panel with 3 bolts at the top edge and a couple at the bottom taking in both joining areas.

It can't have been very strong only going to aluminium in the first place.

As Ralph says; 'use jointing compound'. not ordinary grease, because it absorbes water.

The lack of a proper waterproof 'jointing juice' is what has caused the electrolitic corrosion to be so bad.

Howard,

[What are these for?]

Ok, I have made a start on the cam belt change and am awaiting parts. During cleaning the intercooler out with thinners I noticed that the core is leaking and the rad is on its last legs so these need to be ordered too. I'm just debating fitting a Brunel uprated cooler in advance of injector pump, EGR, and possible bost tweaks but don't know if I can stretch the budget just yet as there is a whole heap of other parts I know I will need.....bushes, ball joints, dampers............Does anyone have a spare 300tdi IC going cherpy cheap cheap?

Anyhow back on topic, whilst waiting for parts I've started to clear some of the muck out of the cab (ex-small holding Landy) and found 3 sets of wires under the centre front seat base. Can some one shed some light on what they are for?

I will be removing the EGR system in due course but what are the 3 terminals? One is a black rectangular multi plug just in shot, one in the centre has a 7.5amp fuse fitted and lastly the round plug that contains 3 pins???

Many thanks,

Lee

I too have that lot under the center seats of my two 97 300Tdi s.

I 'guessed' that the plug was for some form of egr diagnostic check.

Not wanting to open any 'cans of worms' I simply blocked the pipe going to the diaphraghm unit, and left everything else in place.

That was about two years ago, as a result, the egr system, has 'perfectley' not worked ever since..

This is not enough help for you to understand that lot under there, but if you ever do, please let us know.

Best regards.

Howard.

[200tdi loss of power]

Hi ...

The answer to the smoke after sitting in traffic a while is .. 'They do'. I tried to work out why but gave up, so if you do ever work it out then i'll be very interested.

I do long journeys and very rarely stuck in traffic so it doesn't really bother me that much.

1) It seems worse when its dark and theres car headlights behind

2) The longer you sit at idle the worse the puff of white smoke

3) If you sit at idle for long enough then a bit of smoke will develop then big puff when acelerating away.

4) Starts to build with no turbo boost.

5) Starts to clear slowly (small amount of smoke for an extended period) with a small amount of turbo boost.

6) Clears in one large plume with 1 bar boost.

My thoughts on the matter ..

1) Oil attracts water so if leaving veg oil stored for a while, it will absorb water like a sponge especially if you use an ibex container. This can be seen when you change the oil in your chip pan and first heat it up. There are always some bubbles etc which is the water releasing from the oil. This also happens in your engine and could be part of the smoke problem.

2) You are running a smartveg system which is nearly as good as mine so any changes in the characteristics of your driving will have a large effect. Meaning if you were doing realitively short runs then the % of diesel in your veg tank will be increased due to the amount of time the system was on 'flush to tank'. If you suddenly change to longer runs then the % of diesel will be much less.

3) From above make sure you don't run at a greater concentration than 80% veg and 20% diesel and this will help.

4) There is an additive that you can put in your veg which will help with its cetane value http://www.vegetableoildiesel.co.uk/veggiboost.html This is also available on ebay.

5) If your injector pump setup isn't correct or you have tampered with it to give your truck more oomph (Like mine B) ) then this may also be part of the cause. When adjusting the pump, the first thing you will have probably done is turn the cone thing 45 to 90 degrees. This is reasonable only if you back off the idle mixture on the top lid. Failure to do this will cause a rich mixture, smokey on veg, and if really bad will cause bad dash board vibrations at tick over.

6) The other likely cause is the distance that the fuel has to go from the heat exchanger to getting burnt. Its all the way from the heat exchanger through the fuel pipe, through the fuel pump, then through them long metal pipes up the side of the engine. At tick over the fuel delivery rate is very slow so therefore cools alot more. Again thinning to 80/20 or 75/25 will help this. One test i was going to do with this is monitor the return fuel temperature. However i lost interest as i did the things mentioned above.

Other thing to do is get a 4 tank redex diesel treatment and run it through the veg tank for then next few fill ups.

I have seen the night-time car-headlight/smoke effect with normal diesel exaust.

I belive it is because of the narrow wavlength of the light emitted from the following car's headlamps (Maybe H.I.D.s).

I also belive that it's not just a matter of the smoke, but of the normally invisable exhaust gases (maybe carbon dioxide) refracting, or absorbing, the visible light.

So it maybe the distorted light we are seeing, rather than extra smoke.

I dont realy know for sure, but I think this maybe how 'gas-cromatography' works.

I'm prepared to be knocked down on this, but I would like to know a bit more about it.

Howard.

[Poor man's traction control]

I've never understood the logic in that - brakes apply equal force to both wheels thus the one with least resistance will still spin - borne out by the fact that while I have played with doing it once or twice out of curiosity while stuck and with time on my hands, I could never get it to make the slightest bit of difference in a practical situation.

The exception would of course be with ABS fitted in which case the wheel that was "locked" (the one with grip) would have the brakes released which should work. I managed to break the ABS in my old Discovery trying it though

I suspect that left foot braking may work better with drum brakes, because of the 'self servo' effect of the leading shoe in the spinning brake drum.

I also think that ABS may not work below 10 mph, or so, otherwise we could never stop by means of the brakes alone .

Just a few thoughts...

Howard.

[Payen headset]

thanks chaps

Ralph I have new ones for this time but I'll remember that for emergencies

Howard I knew I was quoting something but couldn't have told you what! thanks for the author

Great. I hope you look it up.

Howard.

[Poor man's traction control]

IIRC this is the reason that for example Suzukis are equipped with rear diff lockers in some countries (not Sweden though ), since you might find the car rolling away if one of the rear tires is parked on a slippery spot, much like Howard mentioned.

Ratio won't make any difference since the parking brake is on rear outgoing axle.

This is not the problem I was chasing though. When winching, or standing in very steep slopes, the parking brake is not powerful enough IMHO.

Now I have no knowledge whatsoever of what signals the ABS valve gets, but having an engage button for all four wheels would be handy in some situations.

I live in a land of steep hills, and for me with my properly adjusted parking brake ( a bit more messing about than it seems), I am limited purely by the adhesion of the tyres.

For me, it's good.

Best regards.

Howard.

[Payen headset]

thanks Ralph yes I have some of those that I will use - it was more a question of why the Payen set didn't include them

Or: 'Which in your case, you have not got' ( Henry Reed, The naming of parts ).

I dont suppose it helps, but I had to. It always gets to me that line....

Cheers.

Howard.