howard14

I had to remove the side sill, and the inner channel to get mine out, very tight fit. Had to shear/cut every bolt on my project 97 Def 90. It looked to me as if 'they' put the body on after the tank. It gave me the chance to make a realy nice job of it, with all new stainless nuts, bolts, and washers, everything in lashings of Waxoil, and 'galvy' rocksliders. I wasn't pleased at first though. Howard.

Those are the same NOs that I now have, under a Bearmach no. of RTC3429. This no. is now NLA from LR!! STC4382 now being the one to use. O well. Thanks again. Howard.

Many thanks for that. The two bearing kits arrived by yesterdays 'post', Royal mail 'next day delivery', £9.50. So I must take back what I said about carriage charges/delivery. I think I have had excellent service from Paddock. Not had time to check the NOs yet. Best regards. Howard.

Yerrrr. And they are Timkin as well. 'Carriage',well, I live with it all the time, Royal mail is best, I would get it next day as like as not, and that little lot would have cost about £7. were-as, it may take a week by courier, and it's no use trying to change a 'company's policy'by asking nicely', I have found... At least the Landy gets fixed. All the best. Howard.

Hi all. Just ordered everything for both sides from Paddock for £63.70. Bearings were £7.00 each x4. But my Highland carriage Was £18.40. O well, Thanks again to all. Howard.

So it looks as if the No. is LM603049, dyerthink??? Howard.

Thanks again Ralph. Well beyond your 'call of duty'. Just ploughing through it all now. Howard.

Thanks for that Ralph. How about both sides going at the same time eh. statisticaly they should, if they have the same usage, but we dont expect it, do we? Many thanks. Howard.

Well, it is of help, very much so, and it's what I suspected, thats why I wanted the bearing NOs so I could find out just the sort of thing that you have already found out for me. As long as they are branded bearings (as you say) from Paddocks, then I dont mind getting them from them. I always like to do my 'home-work' before though. Many thanks. Howard.

Ok, thanks a lot Gromit, nice try anyway... Howard.

Hi again Gromit. Just looked in my parts book and found that RTC3429 is now STC4382... But only one pt.no. for all the bearings so that means they are both the same size/type (front and rear). Can you remember why you have two bearing nos.? Oil seal is FTC4785. Thanks again. Howard.

Many thanks Gromit. So thats for two sizes of bearing, and Can I take it that the third number, is for the oil seal? Thanks again. Howard.

The application of 'grease' or 'Glue' to the pully bore are attempts to avoid 'fretting corrosion' at that place. This type of corrosion takes place when two parts vibrate together at a microscopic level, it may even cause the formation of chemicals. I have found the use of lubricants in these static joints to be less effective than sealing/bonding, in the longer term. As you used 'nothing' last time, that could well be why you now find it rusted on so badly. It's a common engineering problem, but not widely understood. Also, it's a wee bit of a wet windy, rusty, place up front there on a Landy, and that can't help us. Good luck with the new puller, I know full well it's a 'barstewerd' when we get trapped like this. Howard.

Hello all. Can some kind person give me the Timkin, or Skf bearing NOs (not the LR pt NOs, sorry Ralph) for the rear wheel bearings on my 1997 300Tdi Def. Also the oil seal no. I can then get all of the parts in before I start the job. The 'noises' started/came and went over the last few weeks, and were harder than I expected to properly identify (I thought I had damaged the center diff on a recent difficult boat recovery epic). When I got it in the air on a 'wheels free ramp', and up to 50 mph in top gear, with me underneath it, all became clear; BOTH sets of rear wheel bearings noisy! Thats a personal first, nice and symmetrical. Many thanks. Howard.

Just as an experiment, try lubricating (with a squirt oil can) the ends of the coil springs where they seat. On some cars the coils can twist under heavy deflection and cause a 'funny noise'. It's simple and cheap to try. Howard.

Here-Here. Howard.

A 'decent' puller will work even if is it has been Loctited (Nut lock grade). If a very heavy, or 'shaft recovery' grade has been used, then it could be a problem. Do a search for DIFFLOCK timing belt renewal. They do a very good guide, also they do a very good kit of tools that some people say you dont need, but I think it's best to have good gear on these jobs. They do a very good puller in the kit. In their guide, they recommend the use of Loctite on the pully bore. On the planet that I come from, when a front pulley comes loose it chews up the front of the crank shaft and it's never the same again. When you have experienced that, you will do everything to stop it next time. Good luck. Howard.

Ordinary grease is a good lubricant, but not the best corrosion inhibitor (but better than nothing). traditionly it was made by mixing soap with oil! and this is why traditionly, Vaseline (petrolium jelly) is recomended for battery terminals (I now use Waxoil). If you take the lid off a tin of lithium grease, put a steel bolt into it, leave it out in the rain for a few weeks, you will find that the rust from the bolt will diffuse through the grease. I now use silicone grease for all sorts of things like the corrosion on the engine sump, and the diff pans, withstands the heat, and works well, I use 'waterproof' boat trailer wheel bearing grease for less demanding jobs, good stuff... Recently a guy on one of these forums used 'damp proof course' (DPC) as an anti corrosion gasket, sounds good to me. Howard. O, and I would do what Ralph does.

As Ralph says; 'use jointing compound'. not ordinary grease, because it absorbes water. The lack of a proper waterproof 'jointing juice' is what has caused the electrolitic corrosion to be so bad. Howard,

I too have that lot under the center seats of my two 97 300Tdi s. I 'guessed' that the plug was for some form of egr diagnostic check. Not wanting to open any 'cans of worms' I simply blocked the pipe going to the diaphraghm unit, and left everything else in place. That was about two years ago, as a result, the egr system, has 'perfectley' not worked ever since.. This is not enough help for you to understand that lot under there, but if you ever do, please let us know. Best regards. Howard.

I have seen the night-time car-headlight/smoke effect with normal diesel exaust. I belive it is because of the narrow wavlength of the light emitted from the following car's headlamps (Maybe H.I.D.s). I also belive that it's not just a matter of the smoke, but of the normally invisable exhaust gases (maybe carbon dioxide) refracting, or absorbing, the visible light. So it maybe the distorted light we are seeing, rather than extra smoke. I dont realy know for sure, but I think this maybe how 'gas-cromatography' works. I'm prepared to be knocked down on this, but I would like to know a bit more about it. Howard.

I suspect that left foot braking may work better with drum brakes, because of the 'self servo' effect of the leading shoe in the spinning brake drum. I also think that ABS may not work below 10 mph, or so, otherwise we could never stop by means of the brakes alone . Just a few thoughts... Howard.

Great. I hope you look it up. Howard.

I live in a land of steep hills, and for me with my properly adjusted parking brake ( a bit more messing about than it seems), I am limited purely by the adhesion of the tyres. For me, it's good. Best regards. Howard.

Or: 'Which in your case, you have not got' ( Henry Reed, The naming of parts ). I dont suppose it helps, but I had to. It always gets to me that line.... Cheers. Howard.