aerocorey
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Posts posted by aerocorey
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Ah, thanks. I missed the rear bracket. Now that I've had a chance to give it a proper adjustment, it would seem that it has already been advanced as far as it will go. I just replaced the timing belt as well. I suppose if my injector pump is already advanced to the limit and still wants to be advanced further it's trying to tell me that it's worn and I need a new one.
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I read in the tech archives that I can adjust my injetcion timing by clocking the injector pump. My TD2.5 blows tons of white smoke when the engine is cold, and it puffs white when I get on the throttle once warmed up. I think my timing is retarded. I loosened the pump and tried to turn it but it won't budge. How hard should I have to try to rotate it? I'm also unclear which way I'm supposed to rotate it to advance the timing. The tech archives give good instructions, however I want to be sure that I'm looking at the pump from the correct end before I try to rotate it to advance the timing.
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The fibre thrust washer is 28mm in dia, 3mm thick, and has a 5mm dia hole through the centre of it. It's quite common for the swivel pin to have to be tapped in, but it shouldn't be as tight as you describe. Sometimes the ip of the railko bush gets damaged in the fitting process (people bash them in with a hammer). Careful use of some wet/dry paper usually sorts the problem out.
Les.
Thanks. In the absence of a thrust washer do you think a piece of teflon cut to fit would be suitable for a short period of time?
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ttt
I'm about to dig back into the swivel. I'm really hoping someone can give me a description of this thrust washer.
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I'm rebuilding my steering swivels. On the left side I have no thrust washer, which explains the wobble I had before I removed the top pin shims on that side a few month ago. Can anyone give me specs on the thrust washer? Tomorow is Sunday so nothing around here will be open for me to buy parts. I've got plenty of stuff I could use to substitute for a thrust washer. I suspect that any steel washer of suitable diameter and of a thickness matching the top pin shim would be suitable. Also, on the right side the top pin was SUPER tight going into the railko bush. I instaled the bush as the manual says, with the machined face inboard. I also greased the bush with a bit of the one-shot before attempting to install the pin. It's gonna take a hammer to get the pin in, but I don't want to do that if it's not normal.
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Not quite what I was hoping for. 300Tdi snorkel is on the wrong side and putting a snorkel on requires all of the stock air intake is still in place. I don't have anything except a gaping hole in the front of my turbo with a cone filter jammed on it. Anyone home fab an intake setup? Pics? I'll come up with something I'm sure, but some ideas would be great.
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When I bought my 90 all it had for an air intake is a cone filter strapped to the turbo inlet with a hose clamp. I'd like something a little less vulnerable. I don't NEED a snorkel, but since I'm looking to replace what I've got with something better I'm open to the idea. What've you got? Where did you get it? Did you make something? I'm looking for ideas, but remember, I don't have any of the stock air intake left.
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What's the difference between a heater core with horizontal pipes and one with vertical pipes other than the orientation of the pipes?
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doesn't do anything, just means the first day of that 25th week is a monday, you may find a day date elsewhere on the vehicle,
Ah, got it. Had me thinking for a minute that there was something I wasn't taking into account. Thanks, all.
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2588 = 25th week of 1988, so it should be fairly easy to work out, given a working week in UK is Monday to Friday.
Sooooo.....I guess that means it was built around the middle of June 1988. I'm confused about what a working week being from Monday through Friday does to change the formula.
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do you have any of the vehicles original UK paperwork or it's UK registration document or number, that would give a better idea of it's age/date of registration.
No original paperwork. I found a "2588" near the outrigger. I guess that means it was built around the middle of June 1988.
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A Outrigger is part of the chassis that sits 90 degrees to the main rails welded to the outside face of the main rails, a good example is under the bulkhead [or firewall] under the front floor where it's attachent bolts are located.
Got it. It's pouring out so I'll have to check it another time. Hopefully I'll find something useful there. That VIN checker was neat, but I'm looking for more of a specific build date.
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Clean the top face of the rearmost outrigger on the left hand side. You should see four numbers. The latter two denote the year of manufacture and I'm led to believe that first two denote the week. The numbers on mine are 0889. When I was rebuilding my 90 back in 2003 I had dismantled the dashboard and found a couple of labels with inspection dates on them and both of them read 23rd February 1989 (if I remember correctly I found the dates stamped on the fabric covering the panel holding the rear wash/wipe switch and accessory socket and another one on the wiper motor). 23rd February is more or less week 8, hence 0889 (week 8, 1989). Apparently Land Rover stopped stamping these numbers on the chassis some time in the mid 90s.
Thanks. I'll look there. First, though, would you mind telling me what an outrigger is?
I'm sure I'll know what you're talking about, but where I come from outriggers are only on boats. I need to learn some LR nomenclature. -
I'd like to know the exact build date of my truck. Can I find it on the truck somewhere or am I going to have to go to Ford with the VIN and ask them?
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There are pictures of the terminals in this thread:
Yep, part of mine is missing. Thanks.
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if you mean the slotted area to the sides of the normal radio, they are the air vents to let air in from the underscreen vent panels, not raio speakers, that grey panel is part of the dash assembly.
pic is lower dash parts & the full dash in a standard 1988 on vehicle, shows the cig lighter/clock/rear was,wipe in small centre panel too.
No, I meant the speaker grille that sits to the right and below your radio. It must be a speaker for one of the other radios you have mounted. Thanks for the pics. I do have a parts book, so I can look at the illustrations anytime. I'm mostly looking for actual pictures. I figure if I can't have a decent dash I might as well at least know what I'm missing.
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the lower centre panel below the radio, is the standard location for the clock/cig lighter & rear wash/wipe switch.
from the left on a right hand drive vehicle
cig lighter/clock/rear wash/wipe switch, obviously on a LHD the cig lighter & rear wash/wipe switch just swap places.
this photo is my 110 you can see the 3 items mentioned above
just click on the photo to make it bigger.
Looks like you've got some kind of cover panel behind there. Are those speaker holes I see? Are those LR parts? I know I can get LR parts to mount the radio, but I wonder about how I'm going to cover up all the wires.
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My rear window washer doesn't work. The wiper works fine, but not the washer. There are 3 spades on the back of my stock rear wiper switch. I can't find any combination of 2 spades which have continuity when the wiper button is pushed in. If I apply 12V to the plug for the washer I get a good spray, so I know the wiring is good. I assume my switch is simply bad. Am I missing anything?
Also, I recently requested pics of a stock dash for my model. I would be interested if anyone has good detail pics of the area around the rear wiper switch and cigar lighter.
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if the attached end is under a bolt head on the difflock mechanism, yes the spade connector end should be connected to the difflock switch, very difficult to get at but not impossible, easier to remove the gearbox tunnel panel from inside the cab or to hard way from under the vehicle with a mirror to help locating the switch [looking from above the switch is on top face of front input housing to the rear inboard corner]
hope that helps
That's exactly what I wanted to hear...been looking for an excuse to pull that access panel.
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There's a black wire with a female spade connector hanging down on the right side of the transfer case. I assume it's for the difflock indicator light since my difflock indicator light doesn't come on although my difflock works fine.
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I made a few trips today. It seems to be holding up. I expect it should start shaking again soon. If my speedometer worked I'd give you a distance.
Man this truck is a basketcase...
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It seemed that most if not all of the play was in the top swivel. I pulled the brake heat shield and removed the 2 bolts holding the top pin in. It came right out with a pull from a gloved hand. It's dry, but looks good other than that. I'm sure this will draw some criticism from those who know what they're doing, but it looked to me like it was simply over-shimmed. I cleaned it up, smeared a little grease on it, and reinstalled it with less shim. It seems to have done the trick. I'll get kits for both sides and do them up right on payday.
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I decided to rotate the tires and check pressure and see if it had any effect on my wobble. It's a long shot, but it's also free. I figured while it's on stands I'd grab and shake everything I can get my hands on. The right side feels good, but the left front outer axle has half an inch of vertical play. Looks like you guys were right on the money with the steering swivels. I'm sure the swivels are shot and need to be replaced, but is there an interim fix until I can order a kit? It turns out I only have the first half of a service manual. Can someone post up some pages for me? Thanks.
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Try to find some diesel specialist, Lucas-Cav pumps are common on tractors, forklifts and different agricultural equipment. Maybe not the diaphragm for a TD, but you'll never know, there might be something else using the same pump.
I'll try that. Thanks for answering my ignorant questions!
I'm sure I'll know what you're talking about, but where I come from outriggers are only on boats. I need to learn some LR nomenclature.
Adjusting TD2.5 Injector Pump
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
No, it's dead on, but you do raise an interesting point. I'm absolutely certain that the old belt was on correctly, and I'm just as certain that the belt I just installed is correct. What if I was to intentionally advance the injector pump 1 or 2 teeth and then re-adjust it starting from a much more retarded position? I think it could work, but I also think it would be simply covering for the symptoms of a pump that needs to be replaced. Maybe I'll try it just to be the lab rat and report back with results.