[microcat]

hi i have this 2009 but it does not show parts prices, any info please

[auto box]

flexi plate i think when you order a new one now adays they are all one these sometimes crack,theres also the plate on the back of the engine

[auto box]

Mmm just read the post again you got a 200 box if this is the case the baxk plate should bolt straight on the box a got came out of a later discovery and am sure its a 300 one but you will beable to tell if you compaire back plate photos, by the way 300 and 200 back plates are different as the 300 has a separate plate to hold the crank oil sealand the 200 is all one.

[auto box]

I'm sure you have to remove the brass bush in the end of the crankshaft,mmm yes am sure i did. if you want to keep the transer box leavers in the same place you will have to mount then on some sheet metal i use 5mm aloy sheet approx 7 inch long 7 wide(got this off a chap on this site along with other info)

This method of fitting the auto box was better for me as every thing under the bonnet is still standard, no cutting of hose wires exhausts and the rest

[auto box]

Flexi plate seen here when fitting the box fit it with the torque convertor inside the box do not bolt it on to the engine first,i stud the box upwades and lowered the torgue convertor on to it ,the gently fitted it as one unit try to move the fly when into position first so you get at least one of the bolts alined thou the starter hole. You have to remove the starter exhaust front bit and cross menber,Iremoved the seats and seat box and fuel tank (the tank only has to come out because of the redrilling of the gear box mounts). I used 2 jacks to do the job and refitted the transfer box afterwards ,im basicully remembering bits and pieces as i go along so this might sound i bit jumbeled up i did do a whole write up on the http://www.landrovernet.com/ , under work in progress 2 years ago but you will need to sign in.

[auto box]

Ithink the auto box is approx 5 inchs longer than the manuel but the back plate is thinner ,so this is why you have to get the prop shafts adjusted. By the way before i done the job i turned the turbo boost up and adjusted the diesal pump, and i think the vehicle went very good indeed,but when you get the auto fitted it eats up the power not as quick off the mark nice when the box gets into top a lot quiter ,but yes it eats into the power and fuel i have just fitted a big inter cooler this week and it seams to help..alittle the last photo shows the corner of the box you have to cut a bit off to refit the exhaust,john

[auto box]

Now thats a great bit of info

John

I did this to my 1993 200 about 2 years ago,turned out to be a very easy job took me 4 days about 8 hours aday by my self(mate let me down and i had booked time off work)Any ways you will need a 200 back plate the one that bolts on to the engine i looked all over for a few months then ended up buying a new one off the dealer £175.00 ,You have to redrill the gear box mount approx 5 inchs backwards cutting the rear and front shafts lengthing and shorting easy job (£75 took 2 days to get them done by prop specialst)Make sure when you get the box you also get flexi plate torque converter gear shifter and cable.You will also need a small oil cooler and hose.also kick down cable and brackets for pump,john

[Hybrid brakes]

Hi hope you get the brake sorted,any photos of your 100inch and more info of biuld, alway intrested in 100inch.

[Double Cardan Prop]

got this one off ebay its off a army v8 landrover,but as already said also change the transferbox flange

[Which bits?]

Hi guys ,i think in my case it was much easier to do it this way,the prop shafts had to be removed to get the box out so they went straight in the wifes car and the garage adjusted them ,picked them up the next day and ready to fit once again.

Also the gearbox mount ,simple just redrill six holes.

The only bit of fabrication was mounting the high/low leaver on a bit of 5mm plate.

If i had moved the engine forward this would have ment new mounts and i have no welder,

Also all the wiring glow plugs ,pump,temp sender would have had to be extended not a big job but more work.

The fuel pipe to the pump would also need lengthing.

Also the exhaust front pipe would need extending to match up.and top and bottom radiator hoses would have to be shortened inter cooler pipes shortened,may be fan cowl removed.

I think also the engine would be close to the air filter and the steering box.

Lots of job, so i think 6 holes drilled and 2 props adjusted with a bunch of spanners and 2 jacks much easier in this case.

[Which bits?]

Back again,when i got my box it came with everything ,apart from adaptor plate.

You will need the autobox torque convertor flexi plate ,adaptor plate,gearlinkages,oil cooler and pipes.

The 300 tdi auto box is approx 5inches longer than the manuel 200 box so you have to redrill the gearbox mounts,you also have to reduce the length of the rear prop by about 5inches and increase the length of the front.

Fitting the box is so easy and once fitted you will have to fit a oil cooler i got a 16 fin one of ebay and some pipe from a hydrolic place much cheaper than landrovers oil cooler and pipes.

You will also have to reposition the hi/low diff lock leaver i fitted it on a peace of alloy plate so it fitted in the correct place on the tunnel as the box sits further back,i also used the same tunnel no change to that needed.

Almost forgot to say you have to grinde the corner off the adaptor plate so it does not hit the exhaust (picture).

More pictures one of the chassis showing holes off old and new gearbox mounts

[Which bits?]

Hi i have a 200tdi auto,that started life as a manuel ,did the whole job my self took 4 long days .get your self a 300 tdi auto and gearlinkage.

You will have to get an adapter plate from a disc 200 auto they made a feww 200 autos,i looked for one for awhile but could not find one so got one from the dealer,its now classed as a classic part at around £175.

You will also need kick down brackeds for pump but these are cheap.Am a bit stuck for time at min but can post some more info later

[defender 3 speed heater]

mmm. i think a 3 speed is a massive advantage over the landrover pushpull leaver as resistance in the leaver biulds up and fan performace will suffer,try a ohms reading and the fan end.

[defender 3 speed heater]

there is an increase in motor speed and with the push pull leaver the power only goes though 2 resistors,now its going though 3 and final speed, speed3, has less resistance so motor faster,much much better i think.

[wibbly wobbly speedo]

anyone know how to reset the speedo back to no mile as the one i have is showing 45,887miles,cheers

[charging battery made easy]

The plug was fitted to a 4amp battery charger,that came with a battery jump pack that i use at work,its a few years old now and the battery pack was u/s,so i use the socket now on my own charger .cannot find old charger to get name of it sorry...john

could try this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Single-Pole-12-Volt-...1742.m153.l1262

[Heater]

you could check the purple wire thats if its purple for a 12volt supply with ignition on,the other wire is a variable earth via the switch

ignore the writing on the picture

[charging battery made easy]

Hi this is another one of my little mods,

what i have done is remove the clips from the end of the battery charge and fitted a heavy duty male plug

and fitted the female one to the seat box,ran two wires to the battery via fuses.

Now instead of removing the seat i just plug the charger in.

Quick and easy charging

[defender 3 speed heater]

[this modis so easy,and if you have the 2002 dash without headlamp adjust even better,but not needed as switch can be placed anywhere yer want.

Any ways you will need a trip to scrap yard, you will need 2 things a COOLING FAN SWITCH from a rover 100 and the BALIST RESISTER which is fitted under the bonnet under a small piece of metal next to the cooling fan.(top right hand side)

The switch has a number of wires that correspond to the same wires on the resister ,the switch is fitted in the cab somewhere and the resister near the fan motor under the bonnet,a small loom consisting of 3 wires will be needed to joint the 2 together.

Basiculy on the switch is a thick black /red wire this needs a earth and thin black/red wire is connected to the side lamps.

The other 3 wires connect the the resister via the made up short loom.

The 4th wire on the resister has a spade terminal on it cut this off and fit a bullet terminal,which connectes to the green wire on the motor.

SWITCH thick red/black earth

thin red/black side lamps

black/white to same wire on resistor

black/yellow to same wire on resistor

black/pink to same wire on resistor this wire then goes to motor see diagram.

[wibbly wobbly speedo]

Hi have just fitted the electric speedo and tranducer and clocks from a td5 into my tdi 200 defender.

Here is a a little write up.

I labelled all the wires first with little tags to make the job easy saves going back to the wiring diagram.

Most wire are the same colour from both vehicle,which makes it alot easier.

There are extra wires like abs, traction control, immobilizer,engine warning lamps red and orange that i did not need .

The red lamp for the alarm i used as a warning for the door not closed correctly as this was a simple connection.

I also moved the vaccum gauge and kept the time clock but this may change later .

HELP FROM http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14892&st=0

A FEW NOTES I MADE BELOW.

TD5 TDI 200

indercator right ( green/white) same positive feed

indercator left ( green/red ) same positive feed

trailer ( green/purple) same positive feed

sidelamps ( red black ) same positive feed

diff lock ( black/blue ) same earth feed

main beam ( blue/orange ) blue positive feed

fog lamp ( red/yellow ) same positive feed

oil lamp (white/brown ) same

glow plugs (yellow/black) same

ignition lamp (brown/yellow) same

heated screen (white/black)

brake fluid (black/white) same

earth (black )

THESE ARE FOR THE SMALL INDERCATOR WARNING LAMPS .

OTHER WIRES NOT NEEDED

ABS/ TRACTION CONTROL CONNECT THESE TO BLACK/WHITE WIRE (BRAKE FLUID WIRE) OR THEY WILL REMAIN ILLUMINATED.

WIRES COMING FROM MAIN LOOM ON BACK OF SPEEDO

PURPLE/BROWN CONSTANT LIVE

WHITE GREEN IGNITION LIVE

BLACK WIRES BLACK/SLATE GREY EARTH

RED /ORANGE SIDE LAMPS

RED/BLACK PIN 3 OF SPEEDO TRANDUCER

PIN 1 BLUE/GREEN OF SPEEDO TRANDUCER LIVE

PIN 2 YELLOW/GREEN OF SPEEDO TRANDUCER EARTH

PIN 3 BLACK WIRE OF SPEEDO TRANDUCER CONNECTS TO RED/BLACK ON SPEEDO HEAD

THE WIRES ON THE FUEL GAUGE AND TEMP. GAUGE ARE YET AGAIN SAME COLOURS ON TD5 AS TDI.

TOTAL FIT SIME AROUND 4.5 HOURS

i think you had to be signed in to read my post so have tried this

[TD5 AUTO DEFENDER]

i have a 200 tdi auto and happy with it ,but i think a td5 would be much better you can get a electric seltup which will make it drive much better have a look on ashcrofts

[wibbly wobbly speedo]

hi,i have just finish fitting this dash and also a 3 speed heater fan switch,here is my write up hope it helps

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=134876

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.php?t=134977