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baldy

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Posts posted by baldy

  1. Many thanks for all the information guys, we are going to Billing this Sat to have a good look at various options, we may also visit Newark on Sunday

    Decision can then be made.

    For those who offered s/hand , Thank you but we really need to have a look at kit first before we decide

    Baldy

  2. Mine rooftent is up for sale now as I'm making an overland camper - good solid piece of kit (Autocamp), bought from Frogs Island

    drop me a pm if you're interested, it'll be a good price.

    Which model ? how easy to erect etc please

    Baldy

  3. We are now starting to seriously look in to getting a roof tent for our Mk 1 Discovery,

    Questions are as follows

    Recomended makes ? I am 6' 3" and like to stretch out at night and t'missus likes a comfy kip

    Are they stable ??

    How easy to errect/dismantle at night/morning

    And finally best place to go look Billing / Newark or others

    Many Thanks

    Baldy

  4. Yep , that was the one I was thinking of, my Defender 130 (manual box) has a similar arrangement to the one shown in the attached. I recreated (as it didn't have a Transmission Oil Cooler as standard) something similar in my 110 that I converted to Auto.

    Colin

    Cheers guys, going to have a good look at it tomorrow and make some brackets etc

    Baldy

  5. Recently fitted the winch bumper and winch but now I notice after a days playing and getting muddy the Transmission Oil cooler is getting plugged up with mud !

    Is there a simple solution to this i.e resite the cooler or a guard ?

    Ideas , suggestions etc most welcome

    Thanks

    Baldy

  6. There's 10 adjustments with these seat and not all of them get used so the flexy drives seize up, this may be your problem but how you get to the gubbins without taking the seat out I dont know. Remove the seat suround and see what can be sprayed with WD40.

    Thanks , will have a fiddle at the weekend

    Baldy

  7. This one is driving me crazy..

    Passengers side 97 Disco 300 tdi ES spec.. the fuse was blown in the fore/aft movement when we got the vehicle

    Finally got round to checking fuses last weekend and found 1 was blown

    Replaced with 30 amp fuse and traLa the seat moves forward and backwards

    HOWEVER

    the seat squab will now tilt forwards and not back !! the motor makes a click when activated to tilt back mode and I can feet a clunk in the drive cable

    but no motion..the problem is that the seat is now tipped all the way forward and T'missus keeps sliding off the seat !

    All fuses /relays/wires check and cannot see a problem

    Any suggestion/Ideas etc PLEASE

    Baldy

  8. As someone who is very new to the whole Land Rover scene, reading threads like this is a MAJOR eye opener, apart from the glossy adverts it's hard to determine what is right and what is wrong ..not only in quality/reliability but also the ethics of who designed/slaved away/made it against the far flung corps who do a tiddle poor copy

    Our disco is due for a slight lift new shocks etc this year and I now know who I will be talking to

    Many thanks

    Baldy

  9. It's worth the £9.99 at the local Kosovan mafia run car wash after a really heavy days pay n mud or a laneing

    Just to see their faces when the disco rolls in covered in mud which sticks like industrial adhesive about 10 mins before they pack up !!

    They aint barred me yet but it's gonna be soon

    Oh and I never leave a tip , even ask for my penny change and get them to go over all the bits they have missed !!

    The record so far is 3 re washes !!!!

    Baldy

  10. I just recently bought a 94 Disco 200 TDi - Does anyone know of a good Land Rover diesel mechanic (honest) who can do a once over and a good service. Preferably within 60 miles of London.

    I can recommend Harris Mayes Country Cars at Rickmansworth 01923 711800 (Peter)

    Knowledgable and enthusiasts to boot...

    Baldy

  11. I'm about to rewire my winches and was wondering what the consensus was on the above.

    CRIMP everytime ...

    And before any body asks ..40 yrs as qualified marine/auto electrician..

    Solder can and will crack under certain stress situations, if you have not got a crimper...hire beg borrow or even make a jig and do it with a hammer

    Chris

  12. Ok got all the bits and pieces together to start putting the roof mounted light bar on this weekend

    But am having a slight quandary as to run the cables from the roof into under the bonnet

    I know if I had a snorkle tie wrap the loom to that BUT I haven't got one ( yet)

    So how can I fix the cable to the outside of the A post ????

    Cheers

    Baldy

  13. Its held on by screws into the bumper end caps and then a row of bolts along the bottom edge of the metal bumper itself (4 of which double as the mounting bolts for the fog-lamp frames). If you do take it off you'll need to cut the end caps down to suit and the wiring from the fogs just tucks up behind the headlamps or take it off altogether by disconnecting it from the connectors behind the headlamps.........

    Thanks mate

    appreciated

    Now if it's dry this weekend

    Baldy

  14. Today's silly question .....

    After clouting the silly lower valence with the fog lights in on our Disco1 time has come to remove it !

    So looked through the manuel last night and cannot see anything about how to remove it

    does it just unclip ? somehow and what do I do with the wires going to the fog lights.

    Cheers

    Baldy

  15. Just like this.

    Thanks Teabag, will have a look at weekend if its not too grottty

    If it is bad weather then stuff the cruise I want to go out and play !!!!

    I would like to get it sorted as we have a couple of really long runs this year and it will make life easier

    Baldy

  16. Once again with a Disco 1 we have a non working cruise control

    I have looked at the hoses and all seem ok , apart from the connection to the vac pump

    I presume that this is below the jack tray which is riveted in ?

    Or am I missing the obvious or do I have to drill out the rivets and remove the tray

    Many thanks

    Baldy

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