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  1. Well, to add my 10 penneth.

    I bent both axles on my expedition RRC driving down the Shayba road in the empty quarter and got the guys at Tomcat to build me a pair of their reinforced axle casings.

    They were tubed internally and had a thicker pan welded on along with external bracing, all I can say is they were superb bits of kit.

    If you were to use them along with a QT type skid to protect the front of the rear diff, and use Devon 4x4 type pipe guards I think it would be pretty much HFH proof

    Regards,

    Roger

  2. There seems to be many people who have problems with the original LR axles.

    So, how about compiling a list of alternate axles, sizes, power handling capabilities etc that can be used on coil sprung LR's.

    It needs to be split into two main groups, Portal and Straight, not everyone needs or wants Portals but a lot of people run high power V8's.

    Not everyone can splash out on Spider 9's and not everyone is capable of welding on new brackets to get the pinion angles/castor setup correctly.

    For instance would the simplest route be to use a set of Tomcat reinforced cases fitted with a full set of Ashcroft internals and ARB diffs?

    Regards,

    Roger.

  3. Wel now then.

    A friend of mine here in Riyadh has a 6X6 P38 4.6 hunting truck and is having problems with the clutch hydraulics.

    Yes I know we have already been told by the dealer that all P38 4.6's are auto. However he sold it back in 1997 and it is definitely a 4.6 with a 5 speed box.

    The problem is that the clutch hydraulic cylinders are both leaking and we need to replace them both.

    Anyone got any ideas for part numbers??

    It seems to be similar to the Jankel design but has a plate on the back stating "RIM Huntsman 6X6".

    Regards,

    Roger.

  4. Hello,

    I found this information some time ago when I needed to replace my solenoids.

    ļƒ˜ MAC Valve 35 Series

    ļƒ˜ Part No. = 35A-ACA-DDBA-1BA

    ļƒ˜ Unit Price = US $ 36.00

    You just need to find the UK importer!!!!!!!!!!!!

  5. Dear HFH sir,

    I purchased a pair of these from Rugged Ridge for my JK Wrangler (yes a sin I know) but I was only able to get them in 'Stainless' (now powder coated black) unless I bought a complete bumper.

    Yes they are very strong and as long as you mount them with HT bolts in line with the chassis rails i dont think even you would rip them off.

  6. Hi Steve,

    You need to change to a defender LT230 1.4 ratio transfer box.

    I am running my 3.5 efi auto Traka on 33/12.50x15 tyres and use 3.5 diffs with a 1.4 transfer box.

    So, our vehicle weight will be about the same and i find the on road and off road performance to be pretty good.

    I did my swap with a defender box from Ashcrofts and the only problem was I needed two holes tapped for the handbrake brackets and the speedo drive gear is way off but I havent bothered to change it from the original RR one.

    Regards,

    Roger

  7. Thanks Steve,

    But check out where I am (Riyadh in Saudi Arabia).

    We are changing an alarming number of air struts and the local main stealer charges more than treble the uk price per strut with a minimum of 3-4 weeks delivery.

    Apart from that the locals are cheapskates.

    Also we have been asked to change out the suspension on approximately 20 vehicles by one customer :blink:

  8. My take on this is "Keep it Simple".

    I have tried several types of automatic deflators and none of them seem consistant and none of them are easily adjustable if you want a different pressure. Some you even need different sets for different pressure ranges.

    I prefer Sun Performance Quick Air Deflators, quick and easy to use and you can do all four tyres at once, just dont stop for a chat or all four will be flat.

    post-134-1228213101_thumb.jpg

    post-134-1228213130_thumb.jpg

  9. Hi

    You can also get RRC snorkels from Devon 4X4 and Mantec.

    In either case you will have to modify the air filter casing to connect the piping.

    On my Mantec I changed the intake pipework from the end to a new fitting i made on the side.

    Roger

  10. Help guys,

    I have a friend in the trade here in Riyadh who is suffering badly with the local main stealer. His customers seem to be going through front air suspension struts at an alarming rate and the main stealer is asking for almost 800 quid each :huh: (and this is after the trade discount). He managed to get a few (Original Delphi & I think the number is 3497693) from Dubai at about half that price but want to order in quantity (maybe 50 to 100 units).

    The Delphi website is "under construction" for the page that lists distributors, can anyone on here help out, or suggest who i can contact.

    We are not looking for anything 'under the counter' but the main stealer is really taking the tiddle here, and we just want to chck if its viable to import at a reasonable cost.

  11. Hi All

    The best place is under the seat (lh side), putting them in the engine compartment is just too hot

    especially here in the middle east. An alternative is to use one of the spaces occupied by

    one of the very rear seats (in a 7 seater). There was a guy here who had twin arb compressoers

    in a neat little housing to replace one of those seats. He used one for the difflocks and both together

    for reinflating.

  12. HFH & FF,

    Thanks for the feedback.

    The pumps are below the tank so the lift pump criteria doesn't come into the picture.

    To have a sump in the centre of the tank I guess would mean having a new tank made, but is not really feasible as there is a crossmember right under the middle of the tank. Also I have very limited space to fit a decent sized swirl pot as it would be under the rear floor.

    The idea of the one way valves is to keep the fuel rail under pressure if one pump starts to suck air.

  13. Hello people,

    I am running a single tank with twin external pumps to feed my 3.5 efi V8. The reason is to avoid fuel starvation on side slopes in the dunes.

    The tank is approximately 100cm wide x 30cm height x 22cm front to back, and it is fitted across the vehicle and has an outlet from the bottom at each end.

    The current connectivity is:- tank to pump, to tee piece, to large single filter, to fuel rail and return to tank. I am using a pair of Bosch external EFI pumps, part #05804764070 as used in BMW's Vauxhall and Opel etc cars.

    I am currently waiting for a pair of one way valves to arrive which will be fitted between the pumps and the tee piece to stop feed problems if one pump is trying to pump air, due to the tank outlet being exposed.

    In the opinion of the committee does this make sense or am I barking again.

  14. Thanks Guys,

    Ian, live in Riyadh Saudi Arabia and the nearest water is 450km from here so wading is somewhat unlikely unless I go to the Riyadh 'river' which is the recycled you know what. So I guess that any good wheel bearing type grease would be OK?

    I was just very suprised at how long it took to bleed through to the rear winch, now I just need to sort the front solenoid problem.

    Roger____________________Roger

  15. Thanks for the quick response.

    The system is two MM's connected serially (as approved by Murrays) driven by a single ZF74.

    I think that its the solenoid valve on the front as the rear winch started working after a modest tap with Landrover tool #1. I'll try and strip the front solenoid valve assy and check it out.

    What sort of grease should I use for the gearboxes?

    Roger____________________Roger

  16. Hello People,

    I have just got round to fitting my old milemarkers to my Traka, its not for challenge use so I have used a dedicated ZF74 purchased some time ago from Murrays.

    As it says on the title does anything need bleeding as nothing works other than the switching and solenoids. Or are there any simple tests I can do before I start ripping the pump to pieces?

    Roger_________________Roger

  17. Hi All,

    I first saw the Maxtraction stuff on the Tomcat stand at Billing a couple of years ago. Surely someone on this forum must have purchased what appears to be a very good system.

    I like the idea of long travel suspension with retained springs and standard bump stops rather than any sort of disocation system.

    At least tell us if its total CĀ£@P so we dont end up wasting our money.

  18. Well,

    Thank you all for confirming what I already thought, the idea of maintaining a Wildcat 6.0 with sequential

    shifter box out here in Saudi makes the mind boggle. The customer had seen one in a magazine and says "I want one" also he seems to have the necessary pot of money required. I think I have managed to make him see some sense, but he is still very interested in putting together something other than a Toyota. He made the P38 pickup but is not happy with it and may junk it but he also has an ex military 110 with salisbury axles front & back!

    Question for JWRiyadh do you still have your 110 out here?

    LS1 motors and 4L80-E boxes are quite common out here as they are used in the Chevrolet (Holden) Caprice and Lumina's and the GMC 4x4's seem to be fitted with the auto boxes.

    Now I have some questions for you all regarding the LS1 route:-

    1) is a 4L80-E a straight bolt up job or does it need a specific variant or adapters?

    2) does anyone have the wiring diagrams?

    3) which is the best software to set up the engine control module?

    4) if I use the Marks adapter for the LT230 will it stand up to the extra power or will I need to use a US spec transfer box as well?

    4) has anybody actually done it and got one running, or is all part of the many vapour builds we keep hearing about?

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