Somadoc

Thanks for your help David. I bought a new compressor today and things are running perfectly again. Time will tell. The next thing to do is rebuild the valve block. Regards, Robin.

Morning David. Having taken the compressor to pieces I now see that the wear is not symmetrical as previously stated. About 1/3 of the liner is shiny/ smooth whist the other 2/3 is slightly lined vertically and dull. I appreciate about the need for some movement with there being no little end but the piston actually has space all around it. As I am not going to salvage this seal I have splayed it a little by running a tiny screwdriver around the inner lip and it fits much more tightly now. My real concern is if I replace the pump is there something underlying which was cured temporarily by the new seal and liner and has caused the same problem as before. Many thanks, Robin.

Thanks David. The liner and seal were new, clean and went together easily. The wear on the new liner is symmetrical around its entire circumference for about 2/3 rds of its height and seems very highly polished. The seal seems intact but there is a gap all the way round between the piston and liner. The original liner had wear towards its top part and was gouged for about 1/4 of its circumference and about 3mm in height. The Dutch guy says it must be the valve module or diaphragm and not his kit which wont wear and be loose after only 800 miles! This is where I am confused. If it was one of these problems why would the initial seal/ liner replacement have completely fixed the problem? I have no warnings just the obvious gap in the piston vs liner. I put the pump back together but will take apart again tomorrow and have another look. Regards, Robin.

Can anyone enlighten me as to why the replacement liner and seal of my EAS pump has seemingly failed and be a loose fit wthin 6 weeks of spordic use? History: My suspension was failing gradually and so I replaced all of the air bags... no difference, slow to pump up and stay up. I checked the EAS compressor and found the piston liner was rutted and worn in one area so I replaced the liner and seal, this immediately cured the problem and I was very happy, until this weeekend and after about 800 miles since repair when the suspension was sluggish to rise. 3 days later it wont rise fully and stabilise at all. So I took the pump apart and found the piston to be very loose within the liner. There is obviously room around the piston seal for air to pass by. My question is this. Are there other factors which would make the liner and piston so loose so quickly without any other demonstrable fault? Would a new seal and liner have temporarily fixed a valve block or diaphragm problem and then re-manifest as a worn liner/ seal? The replacement was a `generation 2` set from the Dutch guy on Ebay selling these kits. Before I go and buy a new pump, any ideas what might be going on? Many thanks,Robin.

Its all coming back to me now! I posted a similat `heart felt` plea for help at the end of December when my 2000 4.0se started spewing water everywhere and putting the temperature in the red zone. Since then I have replaced the thermostat, radiator and viscous fan, hoping to `sort it`. I thougt I had until yesterday when I replaced the exhaust system, drove 15 miles and checked the cooling level only to discover a big fat and swollen top radiator hose. No water loss, no overheating but it loooked as if it should have burst! Reading this post makes me wonder if the block has cracked and I am just sticking on plasters whilst avoiding the inevitable. I will replace the top hose (ever hopeful) may consider `Irontite` although I have been told by a number of people its rubbish. Too good to scrap? Whats the alternative? Cheers, Robin.

Thank you, thank you. The starter motor is knackered!!!! I have just been out, bought a new one, fitted it and a new radiator and it has started first turn...............hooray! Now to see if the overheating problem is sorted! Does anyone know using the engine numbers when the newer engine which didn't slip its liners quite so often was introduced or the relevant story around the problem? Mine is a May 2000 4.0 se, is it vulnerable to a porous block? Happy New Year and thanks again, Robin.

I have put a spanner on the bottom pulley and the engine seems to turn over. Having taken the starter motor off, it looks knackered. Hopefully this is a clue!!! I will change tomorrow and report back. Odd it should suddenly go without warning??? Also I have a new radiator to fit............ fingers crossed. Thanks for your help, Robin.

Thanks FridgeFreezer. The relay seems to click gently with the key to position 3 for cranking, but nothing else attempts to turn. The electrics dip, its as if the starter motor is stuck or the gearbox still engaged in a gear, although the selector selects appropriately. I have tried alternative batteries hopefully with good cranking power but to no avail, also jumping it. Same thing, all lights dip, dash, gear selector and then immediately recover. Is the horn constantly firing coincidental or could this be associated with immobilization even though the alarm seems to work? Anyway, thanks again. I live on the West Sussex/ Surrey borders near Dunsfold where `Top Gear` is filmed............noisy buggers! I have tried a local Land Rover specialist who says he doesn't have the diagnostic gear, and you are right, the flatbed and plug in at `Harwoods Pulborough` may seem insignificant in the scheme of things. Regards, Robin.

Thanks for the response. I was hoping to avoid a `flatbed` visit to the main dealer for a diagnostic plug in as they have quoted a minimum of £125 just for the advice. If the liner might have gone I could do without all the cost of transport and diagnosis. If this is the only solution then I guess that's that? My question is, could a slipped liner have caused the engine to seize so rapidly? Is there any known fault to keep it from cranking? And I sprayed the wet engine bay with WD to try and disperse some of the mess, wish I hadnt, (or tried the Kseal). Regards, Robin.

Evening guys. I wonder if anyone can shed some light on the series of events which have led to me wondering/ worrying if my 2000 4.0se P38 with 74k miles has slipped a liner? The story begins with my car sporadically overheating and pressurizing the system over the last month, then running fine, then doing it again. No water loss, no cream in the oil and it ran and started perfectly. I replaced the thermostat and viscous fan and it was okish until the temperature started fluctuating after varying lengths of drive (15-45 minutes) and eventually over heated a couple of times more. In desperation I put some Kseal in the system and it very quickly overheated (within 5 minutes) of running. Stupidly I took off the expansion tank cap too early and the engine bay got soaked. I decided to flush the stuff out and put some radiator flush in the system and let it run. After about 5 minutes, the temp gauge reached centre, I sprayed the engine bay, especially around the expansion tank with WD40 and the engine cut out!!! A warning message of "gearbox failure" momentarily popped up and I have not been able to crank the car over since. Coincidence? I have checked all fuses and relays, checked the multi-plug underneath the expansion tank, checked the battery and decided to charge it in situ at which time the horn began to croak and then went off full blast. I have now disconnected them. I have tried re-mobilizing using the key code, generic code, disconnecting the battery. I get no warning messages, except window set. The check engine symbol is illuminated and when I try to crank, everything dips electrically, then comes back to life. But no turning over. The car locks, the alarm works. So, please, any ideas as to cause? Could the liner have slipped and the engine literally seized, I desperately hope not! Many thanks, Robin.