Orgasmic Farmer
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Posts posted by Orgasmic Farmer
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Can you not just machine 1.5 mm off the locking nut face?
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When we were racing (in a 90) we used the side handle off a Snap-On toolbox mounted horizontally to the upper screen frame in front of the passenger seat. Was useful to grab to get in but was most useful to brace to when going quick over the rough stuff.
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Tried one (brothers) on my old BMW. Took ages, go and have a cup of tea while it does it's stuff. Then tried again. Moved it around. Pushed and pulled to make sure I couldn't get another drop out.
Then just for fun I pulled the sump plug and got another litre out. I won't be using one regularly for any vehicle I service.
Was useful for cleaning out the cartridge filter holder mind :-)
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My early 110 only had the 2 hinge door. I added the 3rd hinge as it makes much more sense. The cheap ones usually are missing some of the additional bracing that are on the OEM type doors. Easy enough to add if you have a welder. If you have a spare wheel on the back door this will be essential. If not then not such a big deal.
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That VW 1.8 T certainly sounds like it would be a nice engine to stick in a Series 2a (along with some disc brakes). Make a useable classic
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Get a feeling this is more of a hypothetical question :-)
Can't think of a single modern petrol engine with the capacity to move a 7 tonne train at motorway speeds and still be capable of returning near 30 MPG the rest of the time in something shaped like a box. Maybe the BMW 6 pots as you suggest. A VW/Audi 5 pot might work. The Lexus V8 is popular in the fast Ultra4 trucks.
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MTC6224 is the PN from the catalogue. Whether it is available now is another thing. You can just use the generic seals available for a few quid though if not
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Cheers Mike & Mav, useful to know. I also know the old bent track rod problem but these HD bars haven't had any real abuse and are still straight. But good shout for anyone else searching for this problem and finding this thread.
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The WD40 treatment began this afternoon already. Hoping it is nothing worse than that. My only previous experience with failing UJs they went really notchy in 2 positions rather than uniformly tight, hence wanting to hear if anyone else had differing experience
cheers guys
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I cannot be sure but I am convinced my steering has been getting progressively tighter/stiffer over the past year or so. Today I thought I would begin investigations. So I have dropped the drag link and track rod to eliminate anything in the swivels and all is sweet and free in that department. I also removed one end of the steering damper and that made no difference to feel either. Without the drag link and damper connected the steering felt exactly the same regardless of whether the engine was running or not. So I am left with a couple of potentials.
1. Maybe a weak pump? No idea if this is a thing. Fluid is fine and clean.
2. Box is seizing up? Maybe, lets hope not.
3. UJs on the column are failing? Maybe, but in the past I have had them go lumpy but not consistently tight in all positions
4. Steering column bearings? I assume there is one or more bearings in the column itself which may be failing
5. Something I haven't thought of??So which one does the collective think it is most likely to be based on experience. Guess my next test is to knock off the UJs which is a hateful job.
300 tdi 110 with 4 bolt box and 1983 steering column
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Well I have just fitted some Bilstien B6s to the back of the 110. "Made in Germany" clearly stamped on them. Of the 2 TerraFirma sport dampers removed (4.5 years and approx 30K miles) one fully extended under its' own power. The other is still fully compressed and showing no sign of life!
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Checking out the Bilstien B6s on Paddocks and there seems to be a different spec for Pre and post TD5 model numbers. And a £10 price difference. Assuming fitment is identical (AFAIK), what changed in the damping characteristics between the 2 to justify 2 different models and such a price difference?
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On 26/01/2017 at 0:12 PM, slihp said:
with great difficulty as its very tight and always parked cars in front and behind the truck so they would have to lift it. can you get flatbeds with a crane to lift a defender? in fact im getting a tracker too. any recommendations?
Yes, as some friends found to their cost one christmas in Surbiton. Parked in high street and popped in to grab something from shops not realising there was a temporary parking ban for the week before christmas. Came out and Land Rover was gone (Stage 1 LWB). Council had picked it straight up with hiab onto back of truck and away to pound. £130 to release it (this was 25 years ago too)
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When I did mine I bought MG ones off Ebay for a couple of quid. Think I still have a spare just in case.
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No idea if it legally ups the limit. But I had one on a Stage 1 V8 that came to the bulkhead and also extended over the bonnet and down to the front bumper. Before I had it it had done a couple of trips from UK to south of the Sahara, fully laden. The only sign of stress was that the windscreen frame had snapped in the corners.
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Good guess and correct on all counts. I guess if geared for road speeds and on road tyres it probably would be OK. Stick it in crawler gears on tractor tyres on grass and stick 10 tonnes on the back and try a few hill starts :-)
Maybe it would be OK. But I suspect something would give pretty quickly
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Surely hp is irrelevant. It is the torques that matter here. My Massey Ferguson engine is only 80 HP but I don't reckon an R380 would last 2 minutes on the back of it :-)
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Holy thread revival :-)
Interesting that I had starting issues from the outset after fitting a new glav chassis. Not bad enough to make me do anything about it until after 4 years i got so fed up I did some tests and found it was losing 3 volts btween the battery and starter (1.5 volts on both + & - leads). I bought all new cable and ran them from both = & - direct from battery to Starter. Result? Perfect. In 6 month I have not had a single slow crank moment or any other strange electrical issues either.
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Yep, last one I did had no water loss, it is just gas to air. And to be fair it was losing very little power too. The bloke had been driving it for several thousand miles with it chuffing to the extent it needed a fair bit of a skim as the gases had gouged a groove in the head.
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What is the betting it is the head gasket blown at the back. The noise is the compression gasses chuffing out at the rear of the engine. If you are lucky it may just be the manifold gasket but the head Gasket path at the back is very common and sounds like you describe
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Not sure where to ask this but hoping the real brains frequent this part of the forum.
Not really an issue but my FIP (300 tdi) has been tweaked several times over the years and, while it goes well enough, I sometimes get to thinking I would like to get it back to some sort of base or reference setting from which I can start again. Is there any way that a (fairly :-) ) competent home mechanic can do this without recourse to specialist equipment? Or does such a setting not really exist anyway and it is all trial and error?
Happy for any links, pointers or experiences.
Cheers
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Did you measure the voltage at the headlamps before and after the mod? If you haven't taken a supply wire from the battery/alternator/starter to feed the relays, where are you picking up your main feed from?
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You say the earths are OK. Mine were also perfect. Have you done a drop test yet? I bet there is some internal breakdown in some of the cables resulting in increased resistance and a drop in current/voltage to the starter. It doesn't need to be much to result in all the symptoms you describe. A quick test is to stick a known good battery in the engine bay and use a pair of jump leads to (carefully) connect direct to the starter. If it sounds better/starts quicker then you have found your problem.
Thoughts and musings on the new defender
in New Defender Forum (2020 onwards)
Posted