jiginc
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Posts posted by jiginc
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before we venture around Australia will be to ditch the ZF auto and replace it with a R380
My understanding is the auto is a much stronger box than the R380 !!!!
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V8 with Multi point LPG. Year 2000.
I had a similar problem with mine, miss firing between 1500 and 2500 rpm.
I tried lambdas, MAF, plugs, HT leads, even HT coils but no change. In the end I disconnected the Lambdas and it ran like a dream.Has been OK for the past two and a half years. No change in MPG or power.
Earlier this year I changed the recommended, very expensive, plugs for standard V8 ones and the power increase was very noticeable.
I understand that the only reason for the recommended ones are in order to extend the service mileage requirements but it's very difficult to adjust the gap for LPG, in fact they say the gap is fixed and should not be changed. Try a set of standard ones as for the D1.
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The wires may be under that black bracket, it may also have a neutral switch hidden under there. Have a look in this random Land Rover doc I found on the web http://file.seekpart.com/keywordpdf/2011/3/22/20113228267973.pdf
I do wonder how a NAS or Japanese spec box ended up here though.
They all came from here in the first place.
If the production line was running short of boxes for UK units and US spec ones were available they may well have transfered US units to UK units. Omitting to wire in the eletrics.
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See part 29 US Only!!!!
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Hi,
Please find attached RAVE information not sure the details are clear enough for your problem.
This one may be more help.
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Hi,
Please find attached RAVE information not sure the details are clear enough for your problem.
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The attached PDF files show the system. looks like a big job but if the refrigerant lines can be isolated you may be able to remove the rear Assembly otherwise the whole system will need to be drained.
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Please find attached PDF files showing 00 and 03 wiring hope these help
I was looking to do the same but an article in this month LROI was saying the update headlights are a magnet for the tea leafs. (wonder where yours came from?)
Might hold off for now.
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Rear door is the same but all others are not.
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Point of interest;
The window drive motors are the same for both the D1 and D2 BUT reversed. Left on a D1 fits the right door on a D2 Right on a D1 fits left on a D2.
Strange is it not.
jiginc
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Front windows operate through the BCU(Body Control Unit) Check F29 and F34 passenger compartment fuse box.
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I have a 3 door V8 disco, that I want to change to a 200tdi. I have a LT77s gearbox on the Disco can I just bolt a 200tdi straight onto the gearbox or do I need to faff around changing the gearbox too. the gearbox is solid and being the LT77s has a useful things like a series clutch fork, which is much better than the pressed types.
I know I need to put a return fuel line into the fuel tank for the diesel, put a different air box in and a fuel filter, and I was just going to put a switch on the dash for the heater plugs.
will a 200tdi fit on my gearbox?
Cheers
The engine mounting brackets will require moving.
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My 94 Disco has the wonderful dimdip system fitted (golden resistor on the bulkhead above the turbo) and i have noticed that at times the headlights take a few seconds to get going.
I've had a quick search and not really found a definitive answer to the question "how do you remove the dim dip system?" - is it just a case of remove the unit, and bridge the wires together? or is there more required, such as altering the wiring to the wonderful MFU behind the dash??
I would have thought that if you just want to remove the dim dip disconnect either end of the golden resistor and tape the end of the wire. If you want the dim dip with full power (Not sure why though) short the ends of the resistor or disconnect the wires from the resistor and solder them together,
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Having got the air suspension pump working again I still have the collapsing passenger side. It had not noticably done this before the pump failure but perhaps started doing it and provoked the pump to pack up if it was close to being clapped out.
I would be interested to hear what experience of air springs people have and how long they last? I will be miffed if mine is duff.....its just over two years and 20K miles old.
Mine is a 2000 on an x plate and is still on the origional air springs.
jiginc
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cheers m&s i have just done them and decided to do them front 30 psi and rear 40 psi.
graham
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03 d2 td5 auto e.s.
The land Rover manual states 28 front and 38 rear. So thats what they should be.
jiginc
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Quick answer is NO.
The front shocks on a D2 lower end are a flat bar through the rubber bush with two holes at each end.
The rubber fails and allows the shock to move as you described. It's an MOT fail.
Replacement is not difficult, I replaced the turrets as they were corroded. Turrets are expensive (compared to D1) as only OEM items available.
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great, fortunately they are not too shot yet so will wait until warmer weather, out of interest what fails on the turret? Rust??
Before and after.
jiginc
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Just had mine fail it's MOT due to nackered bushes and turrets.
As said plenty of easing fluid and careful spanner work, all mine came off OK. If one does shear then you need a replacement ring.
As replacement shocks are only £18 each I changed both units. Much easier than replaceng the bushes. actually I could not see how the bushes could be replaced.
Turrets can only be replaced by OEM parts so a little expensive at £51 each plus VAT.
Total replacement time 2 hours.
jiginc
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i recently bought an LPG kit from tinley tech, with twin underslung tanks, it came to just over 800 quid for the kit. it then took me, a friend and his dad 2 days to fit the kit. i also had to pay for an inspection by a certified engineer, which cost another 100 quid.
it's saved me about 15p a mile in fuel costs, and i've done 6000 miles since fitting it in september, so its just about paid for itself now.
HTH
Ian
It is recomended on D2's not to fit under sill tanks (If that's what you mean) Too many pipes etc and a compressor in the way. I had the petrol tank replaced with two tanks in the same space. and a small petrol tank installed in the rear wing space.
As above you must use sequential gas injection system as a backfire will damage the inlet manifold.
Average cost is £2,500
jiginc
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The fuse is common to a bunch of other systems on the vehicle (cigarette lighter, door lock motors, int mirror, IDM etc) so I guess it's in place.
Have you got the MODULE-SEAT HEATER-LH (D177) fitted?
Description: Module-seat heater
Location: Underside of front passenger's seat
Seat Heating Description
The heated seat elements for each seat are supplied power from a seat heat
module located on the underside of the seat frame. The seat heat module
provides consistent temperature control of the seat heater elements. A
negative temperature coefficient variable resistor is located in the seat cushion
heater element. The resistor changes its resistance as the seat cushion
temperature increases or decreases. The resistance is monitored by
electronics within the seat heat module, which raises or lowers the power
supplied to the elements and controls the element temperature between 26 and
36F).
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As advised by the LR guy I have unplugged the Lambdas and it now runs fine no pops or judders. Not sure what it's done to the MPG but we shall see.
It now runs open loop all the time as expected.
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Many thanks for the help guys.
I am away for the next 7 days but will resume the diagnostics when I return home.
Will report back then.
jiginc
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Swap the sensors over / clear code(s) and see if the fault moves.
Maybe a faulty sensor.
Martin
Hi Martin,
Will try this however.
I have been advised by a LR tech that lambdas do not respond well to LPG and the best way to run it would be to remove the sensors and run on open loop.
Any one got and comments on this!!!!
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Rover meaning is:
P0134 = "Front sensor LH bank open circuit" "O2 sensor circuit no activity detected sensor 1"
Is the sensor faulty??
Martin
Hi,
Both sensors are new and OEM parts.
Not that that means they are 100%.
thanks
Hello and Discovery 2 V8 misfire when idling and pulling away
in Discovery Forum
Posted
So the problem starts when the system goes to closed loop (when the engine gets warm) Try disconnecting the MAF and see if that makes any difference also you could try unplugging the lambdas.
I had a similar problem and now run with the lambdas permanently disconnected. I find it makes no difference to performance or MPG.
I have also replaced the expensive plugs with standard ones and that gave a much better performance on LPG