David Wright
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Posts posted by David Wright
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I think that to get any meaningful advice you will need to add some more information
How many miles has the box done?
Does it exhibit any other problems?
Does it slip at all when driven normally?
What colour is the oil in the box?
Does it have any smell?
When was the last oil and filter change?
In my bitter expirience gearbox problems are usually only cured by removing it and replacing it.
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Replying to my own post, sorry. Looking at a map of Bury it looks like 'A14 Performance Exhaust' is near Tesco's - is this the guy?
Sorry I cannot remember his name but it was at the back of the railway station
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There is a man in Bury St Edmunds not far from Tesco who will make up a system to your spec or fix what you bring him.
He did a great job on my Defender 90 and well priced (Cheap)
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Mine was bought from Rimmers and was incorrectly manufactured and ended up back with them. The vehicle was off the road for a month while they sorted it out - and it was expensive. But on the plus side it has lasted ten years and is still going strong.
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I am assuming that you have a 90 with the rover axle if so the hub is quoted as either FRC 6141 or FRC 8555 and the stud is a M10x50 part no FC110107L
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According to my workshop manual and the update dated 1988 the head lamp relay is the fifth relay from the right of the vehicle (standing in front of the open bonnet) which is in the bank of relays on the closure panel on the bulkhead. There is a cover over all these relays.
As regards wire colours the wiring diagram shows a Blue/Green wire as the feed and a blue/white and blue/red outputs.
I hope that helps
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I am assuming you mean the part number for the dash assembly - this is the whole bulkhead!!
The part no depends upon both the vin and vehicle type
Dash Assembly 2 door station wagon to VIN HA606949 Part no MXC7928
Dash Assembly 2 door station wagon from VIN FA606950 Part no MXC8902
Dash Assembly 4 door station wagon to VIN FA399972 Part no MXC5927
Dash Assembly 4 door station wagon from VIN GA427921 to VIN HA606949 Part no MXC8234
Dash Assembly 4 door station wagon from VIN HA606950 Part no MXC 8901
I hope that is some use to you but I would be surprised if you were able to find any of these parts today
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According to my Microcat that panel is part of the dash assembly and does not seem to be available separately
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Does anyone have a diagram of the vacuum system for a 3.9 RRC - having changed the engine I seem to be in a muddle with the vacuum system and the cruise control.
Thanks in advance
Does nobody have any idea how the cruise control is connected??
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Does anyone have a diagram of the vacuum system for a 3.9 RRC - having changed the engine I seem to be in a muddle with the vacuum system and the cruise control.
Thanks in advance
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Yes I think the axle will fit OK might be a bit of messing with brake lines but its basically the same thing.
I carried out this exact same operation on my 86 90 some years ago and yes it fits easily - but it is very heavy. The only issue is one of brake pipe threads and pipes. The RRC axle is double piped and metric threaded - I made a crossover pipe with one end metric threaded and the other imperial - you also need the tee piece from your original axle.
But after doing all this work the brakes were no better than with the original drums - so I am not sure whether this work is worth the effort
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Deeply regret but a chain replacement is a complete transfer box rebuild as while it is in bits you may as well replace all the bearings and probably the main shaft
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Crank driven, belt driven, chain driven, PTO driven, electric, power steering, dedicated, variable rate, mech clutch, electric clutch, you will find all the options if you...
I am sorry you have lost me - what is it you are trying to say?
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"Why is it strange? It's probably the most common configuration that the Milemarker winch is found in. It provides independence from the vehicle system (i.e. you can bust any part of the system and still have a fully functional vehicle - which you can't say about many other winches nor the power steering driven setup)."
The reason I feel it is a strange way to power the winch is that given the winch is only running approximately 1% of the time (at least on my winch) the engine is running what is the point of having a pump constantly running, absorbing power and heating the fluid - this is not good engineering design. It may be the commonest and cheapest configuration but it is a poor solution to this problem.
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My 90 had a hydraulic winch fitted which was very good - it was driven from the power steering pump via a series of solenoid operated valves.
The main problem was one of speed - it was desparately slow using this configuration. The winch supplier suggested using a ZF power steering pump which was permenently connected into its own hydraulic circuit but to my mind this was a vey strange way of solving this problem - given the amount of time that the winch was in use compared to the amount of time that the engine was running.
I started to look at ways of putting some sort of clutch into the drive of the pump so that it was not continually driven - I started with an magnetic clutch from an air con compressor but decided that this was not capable of taking the torque required and decided upon a dog clutch which could be engaged with the engine stationary. However events overtook me and the vehicle had to be sold so development stopped.
Apparently the next problem will be the solenoid valves which in their standard form are too small to allow a sufficient volume of fluid to pass to significantly increase the winch speed
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I am in process of rebuilding my LT77, all is going to plan except I need to replace the bearing race which is inside the end of the spigot and mates up with the small bearing at the end of the mainshaft. I have moved the race a little by using the end of one of my gear pullers, acting like a small pry bar, but after pinching my finger 3 times I decided there must be an easier way...so anyone got one?
I removed the race on my LT77 with a die grinder - I decided that was the only way to remove it
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My K reg 200tdi disco had exactly this problem and it was diagnosed as the swash plate in the injector pump producing swarf which in turn prevented the fuel solenoid from closing. Apparently this was a very common problem with 200tdi s and mine was even fixed for free by Bosch but that was some 10 years ago.
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Has anybody got this electronically and does anyone have experience of doing it - in particular can it be done without all the L/R jigs and tools.
Yes I have done this - not very difficult juast a bit fiddly - The only special tool I made was one for tightening the nut on the rear end of the shaft - if I recall the gear needed to be held whilst tightening the nut to a fairly high torque and I made a tool which fitted into the holes in the gear and allowed the nut to be tightened. But it was not very sophisticated!!
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Shock absorbers will work in either direction ( either the correct way up or upside down) but of course upside down the outer sleeve will fill with water unless there is a hole in the casing to allow drainage
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I know it is not working because it was working telling me the water level was low and then it stopped
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My low water level warning light on my 3.9 RRC has stopped working - I have changed the bulb for a known working one and have disconnected the plug all to no avail - does anybody know where to find the flasher unit for it? - I am assuming that there is a flasher relay in the curcuit as in operation the light flashes
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If you are going to put a sleeve over the existing shaft the original seal will not fit and you will have to source a different seal.
Some two years ago at the Peterborough Show there was a gentleman from Adwest selling reconditioned steering boxes and if my memory serves me correctly he explained that the problem with the existing steering boxes was that shaft was moving downwards and damaging the seal.
Therefore just to replace the seal was counter productive. Of course the first question was why had it taken some 20 years to work out what the problem was and come up with a solution but according to this gentleman if you buy an Adwest replacement box the seal will never give another problem - The world holds it's breath!!!
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Only a thought but if the calipers are on the wrong side of the axle - they are handed - the bleed nipples are in an incorrect postion to allow the air to bleed properly - Do not ask me how I know this!!
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I got £55 for mine when I sold it - I think £200 is somewhat optimistic
Misfiring RRC 3.9
in Range Rover Forum
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Possibly leaking head gasket allowing coolant into the cylinder - mine was on No1 cylinder