Bob Radford

I was removing the side steps and ended up having to remove the sills to get a one bolt. The sills and side steps were rounding off. I was then fitting a new step rail and had to undo the bulthead retaining bolt. 19 mm socket head slipped, 3/4" fitted like a glove and after a lot of grunt, I got the nut off. Fortunately I had two 3/4" sockets and room to get in. Is it just a case of working to best fit? I have imperial sockets but not spanners. Think a trip to Halfords is on again! Bob R

Hi, they're Halford brand, seem OK on my other toys but very loose on the Landie and yesterday bruised knuckles from rounded heads. I look like I've been bare knuckle fighting! Bob R

Perhaps a silly question to all you experianced Land Rover chappies, but are the nuts and bolts on my 1998 110 metric or imperial? I only have metric spanners and they seem very loose, happy to buy an imperial set but not unless I need them. Thanks for your replies, Bob R

I was wondering whether to counterbore top and bottom to accemp a stainless pin and nut, has anyone done it before? Bob R

Ordered 4 sets today from RJ Land Rovers, good price and knows what he's talking about. I'm goig to attempt getting the pin out and then stove enammelling. Any ideas how the pin comes out and where I can get new ones?

The O/E hinges are a special iron called SG or ductile iron. It has similar properties to a mild steel so will take a load whereas cast or grey iron is very brittle. I think the problem is the wear point between the inner and outer hinge, any coating wears off and you end up with metal to metal and therefore rust. I also think that if the screws / bolts catch the coating as they're fitted and take it to bare metal, this is also a rust point. I will prove / disprove my theory when I replace mine. I work in a foundry and keep toying with the idea of casting these in stainless, sure I could do it a lot cheaper than other ones available in the markey place. The problem in the cost of tooling to start with. Bob R

Thanks Western, you're a star. Any thoughts on stove enamelling? Bob R

Hi guys, will the TD5 door hinges with the washer be a straight replacement for the rusty bleeding ones on my 1998 Defender? Am thinking about getting them stove enammelled, has anyone done it or see any problems? This has probably been asked before so sorry if I'm repeating old stuff. Thanks Bob R

Thanks Cheeky, thanks Bigbeast, what wonderful names, I shall have to get one. It does seem strange that central locking and alarm are fitted but not linked. My dad has a Rover 400, the fob is exactly the same and disarms the alarm and opens the door and vica versa. I will have a dig round, see what I can find Thanks again Bob R

Thanks for your help, sorry for the delay replying, started back to work and been in Holland all week, deep joy. i'll have a good read of all this and then get all the gear and have a go Thanks again Bob R

Hi Nige, thanks for your help Cheers Bob R

Hi guys, just bought ny first Defender 110, 1998 Special vehicles, ex-Navy and set up for artcic condition, ideal for the current weather. I've been running a Series III but this is so much more user friendly for the family. I have a few questions, hope you can help:- 1) the central locking is by key, the alarm on a fob. Can they be linked so I can unlock & disarm at the same time? 2) the previous owner has had a heated FWS fitted but not wired in. He's supplied the timer relay and other relay and I have read the notes on this forum. Question, will the wiring loom already be set up for the windscreen or will I have to wire from scratch? 3) the doors are bad at the bottom, not exactly a surprise. I see the guys at Froome offer an excellent service but it's a long way away (I'm near Derby) and the car is parked on the drive so too risky to take them off and TNT them. Question, is there anyone more local to me offering a similar service? More question to follow and I'm probably asking the same old questions but ant help would be appreciated. Thanks & regards Bob Radford