Jiminy Cricket
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Posts posted by Jiminy Cricket
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More fuel leaking - this time from the other end! Before posting for help I looked in the tech archive at the v detailed how to on fuel injector pump spindle replacement. If my pump is leaking only when running from the rear of the pump somewhere in the region of a small nut / allenkey bolt just below the fuel line outlets - is this the issue.........ie is this my fuel throttle spindle leaking and therefore is this how to the one I need to follow?
Many thanks in advance
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Dave,
Thanks for the response. Will not be using any RTV then,..,..
Western - thanks for sorting my title
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Just to add,
I had a high pitch metallic noise that I failed to track for weeks, until the front prop UJ failed.....thankfully it was the transfer box end. Definitely worth checking the propshaft IMO.
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Fule or Fuel.....whoops - what a dingbat!
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Before I knew better when replacing my rear cross member on my 110 i also renewed the tank. Sadly I bought a Britpart one, complete with new sender.......it leaks!
I have changed the sender, changed the olives and changed the rubber seal and metal seal ring twice. Switching the seal over does seem to stop the leak, temporarily.
So I have concluded that the tank hole for the sender is imperfect (true Britpart quality) and thus leaking - can I use an RTV sealant on this - will that work, or am I doomed to have a leaky tank till i stump up for a new one, not made by Britpart?
Any thoughts or suggestions on how best to fix would, as ever, be greatly appreciated!
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Guys, thanks for all the advice......finally got round to looking at her.......and diagnosis is alternator. When I disconnect the main charging lead my test lamp all but goes out. I assume that means a new alternator....or a recon.....any tips on where to go if so.....and what to avoid! Thanks again.
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Not yet, will do though....thanks for the advice!
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Before I start I have tried to read all posts on here and in the tech archive.....but I'm still stumped. Help please! Ok so battery went dead (on wife when I was at work......truck is running out of lives!). Have fully charged and tested battery, its good. Vehicle now starts well everytime, but we have to disconnect the neg terminal. Tried testing in line with neg lead using a lamp (spare reversing one) with all turned off. Lamp glowe very bright, so I thought brilliant this won't take long.......silly man! I have pulled every fuse (i think) to try and get the light to dim, but nothing.....are there any others hidden in a 300tdi defender other than main fuse box and engine bay next to the heather matrix? Also is the lamp test I am doing going to work.....I think it should, obviously an ameter would be better but the fuses in my multimeter seem to hve blown, great!
Any pointers / advice appreciated......the wifes getting board of connecting / disconnecting the battery 10 times a day! Oh, and it drained the battery in under 12 hours to nearly usless, so must be something big ish???
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Bingo bango!
You guys rock - thanks very much....now to work out what sizes I need etc. After that on with the door repairs as per the early post today....hope mine aren't to far gone, but susoect otherwise
Cheers,
Brooksy
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I like bodges - however i have already used that one up about a year ago and its returned with avengance - also need windows as use for dog ventalation when parked on occasion. Where can I get the felt from - paddocks etc?
Proper solution: Replace felt runners, problem will go away for some years before returning.
Bodge solution: Wedge card or something in the runners to stop them rattling.
Mega-bodge solution: Silicone them shut.
My solution: Replace entire window with 4mm glass cut to shape of hole and single rubber seal like the rear side windows.
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Does anyone have any advice on how best to remidie a realy annoyingly rattly rear slide window on a 110 defender. I am up for easy fix and also complete refit of window - not sure what is required though to solve. I assume the soft "felt" window guides have gone hard and wide - hence the rattle. Can these be bought and easily replaced? Any experiance or advice with this would be appreciated.
Cheers
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Hi all,
Any thoughts or previous experience with the following would be great:
My Defender (110, 300Tdi 1996) very occasionally fails to start - and by that I mean its DEAD as a dodo.....not even the sound of a solenoid clicking (less for the glow plug one that is). Its been going on for around 2 years, sometimes its worse than other times. I have done the following:
Replaced Battery - things got a lot worse when that was on way out!
Checked (-) wiring point to chassis - all seems good.
Replaced all yellow relays in dash - no change
checked wiring to battery, starter, alt etc etc
stripped, cleaned and bench tested starter about 8 months ago - was filthy but working and is still now.
I saw a post in the archive re Disco spiders - could something similar apply to me, it does have an alarm / immobiliser but I don’t turn it on much as a year or so ago it went bonkers and goes of (the alarm that is) randomly - usually 3 am, hungover and without keys.....
Anyway any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
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Thankfully it came in a green one - like a beer mat!
Any hints on how to remoe a REALLY stubborn bolt on the PAS pump pully- cant sort this leak till that blighter is off! Having to add water every day at mo.....dependant on use, its only leeking under pressure. Cheers for the help guys.
Please tell me it didn't come in a blue box
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A quick Hijack on this post - I have read the above thread(s) with interest and was wondering about how to fit a bigger intercooler if not going for the expensive bespoke defender models.....There are 2 struts that support the bonnet latch mechanism in front of the rad....can these be safly removed....easily relocated in order to accomodate a biiger intercooler? Also as I have a 300tdi with no A/C i assume the best size (thickness) intercooler would be 76/80mm with 3' inlets / outlets? Any sugestions or advice appreciated!
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Too late........ :-( let's hope it lasts!
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Great! Thanks for the advice.......new pump it is then. Cheers.
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After finally replacing my rad, its been gone for a year or so! Water now seems to be emitting from around the water pump pully.......time to change the pump aswell or can the seal, gasket be replaced?
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Thanks all for your replys, looking like a MudStuff concole then as seems to be voted for the strongest and price / fitting seems reasonable - like the LR detail as an option!
Thanks again.
Nick.
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Hello everyone,
Had a look through the archive and old posts but cant find quiet what I am after. I am starting to add a few electrical items to my truck and rather then messy switches fitted here and there and the head unit spacer required for the new up-rated stereo I was wondering if the TD5 style central console will fit in the 300tdi dash, providing a solution to the stereo and additional switches I need now and will need in the future?
If this has been extensively covered in the past I do apologise for not being able to find it.
As yet I have not sourced a Td5 dash so if there are other aftermarket solutions then I would love to here these as well. As ever finance is the key - low budget will be the only route, hence the thought of a td5 dash from a scrappy etc.
All thoughts / help appreciated.
Nick.
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Your all forgeting a healthy supply of a sense of humour, you need that in every Land Rover toolkit!
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Evening all,
Just thought i would let you know that it is now fixed.
After much messing about turned out to be the earth on the heater blower control switch. Other items (such as lights wipers and stereo) appered to use this as part of there earth because when disconected they did not work fully. The earth is now conected to the stearing column support bracket....... problem solved!
No more random wipers or dipping lights
bloody wiring
Now onto rear wiper motors..............
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Hello all,
Just changed my forum name to Jiminy Cricket as I could not stop the "300 tdi Squeak"....
Typically I think I just have!
Having tried new / different fan belt tensioners new tensioner bearings, changed water pump, fitted new alternator it still would not go away.
Thought I would oil the tensioner bearing when changing the alternator on Sunday. It made the squeak worse, much worse! I then noticed a bit of the oil had made it on to the belt and some of the pulleys. So i bunged a load of talcum powder on the belt....and hey presto squeak is dead!!
I do have a very small oil leak coming from somewher near the top of engine...,.no idea were. This oil i think after a while makes it onto the belt and the squeak is back. I could have sworne it was a metal on metal squeak, but obviously not.
One for you to try if you are suffering like I was.
Nick
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They all go to a bolt on the bulkhead*, engine side, near where the wiring comes through. If you've got 4v neg - neg then it has to be an earth fault!
* If it's a sterro fitted by Mong of Mong inc., this might not be true, as the earth (if it exists) may be anywhere
Still no further on with this.
Is there an earth point under the front wings of a defender for the head lights? I have had a small bit of damage (wife was driving!) to the front left, the side repeater no longer works and the wing is dented.....the problem (lights / wipers / stereo) got a lot worse after the bump.
My thoughts were that if the lights are earthed here and that earth is damaged could this be affecting everything else, as according to the wiring diagrams above they all share a common earth which is a bolt on the bulkhead?
If not then looking at the diagrams it refers to a junction / header box that all the suspect items are eathed through before being attached to the bulk head.......where is this box located??? I think this could be susupect.
The items at fault are Lights / Wipers / Fan / Stereo.
All advise appreciated, its cold work out there tracing a dodgy earth!
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Rob,
Well today was not very productive....despite your help. Checked the dim dip with a new one -no change. Checked the stereo wiring, no scotchlocks and all seems ok. Removed stereo anyway. Symptoms no change.
Checked the earth from battery to chassie, all OK but cleaned and put back. No change
Checked earth from battery to gear box, all OK but cleaned and put back. No change.
Went to engine bay, checked earth on bulkhead drivers side, cleaned and put back, no change.
Remoed dash and checked switches, no change to headlight main beam light glowing when switch to lights and or wipers disconected....
After that had to put all back together and call it a night.
One check I did do, but do not know how to follow up was put my volt meter accross the negative wire to wiper motor and the negative terminal on the battery.......showed 4 volts (ignition on and wipers set to off - but still wiping!). Then checked volts across the motor +/- and showed 7.8 ish.
Any ideas?
Where do the wipers/lights/fan/stereo earth to as I thinlk this is the possible cause but am unsure as to were it is
Thanks again.
Nick
:o 
Fuel (injector) Pump Leak
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks for the response - not sure why I should delete....? The leak appears to be from base of the plate that the fuel lines come out from, will have another look tomorrow after a good clean. Dose anyone have link for a Bosch pump - as fitted to a 96 300tdi exploded diagram - the worshop maual does not have much detail as far as I can see.
Many thanks