Chrissyg
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Posts posted by Chrissyg
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Bloody hell, that's some good going Chris! Is that with the speedo correction applied for 7.50s? Mine over-reads by 5% so the MPG figures are adjusted accordingly. Don't think I could drive 400 miles on the motorway at 50mph though!
If it wasn't for the fact that I want to be able to tow with the car I'd probably be looking at puting a 1.2 Disco box in too.
I'm not actually calculating it using the speedo at all. I do a set 220 miles a week (google maps confirmed the distance) and all I'm working it out by how much fuel I use during the week, to a brimmed tank at the start of the next week - more accurate than using the speedo! I've 40.7mpg is the highest I've seen!
As I only do short journeys, I'm quite happy to sit at 50-55mph in the slow lane and just cruise
There are some occasions where I wish I didn't have the 1.2, but for the most part it's a damn good mod. I don't do any towing however! -
At 50 on the motorway with a disco transfer box and 7.50's, I've been getting 38+mpg consistently for the last 10 weeks! It can be done!
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Haha, thanks James, but I think an road trip like that might be a little far to travel as you say
I was planning on using one of the Bearmach kits, specifically the one with the Dayco belt! Thanks for the tip, I'll give them a ring when I get round to ordering it later this week, the ones I saw didn't seem too expensive (£30 ish).I still need a breaker bar, torque wrench and a crank puller kit.. Once I've bought everything (I'd really rather not) I don't know that I'll be that far off a garage doing it for me..
Thanks for the tips though!Chris
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Ahh that's useful information, thank you very much gents. I'll have a look at Paddocks and see what price I can come up with for one of those kits.
Would this replacement timing kit be good enough (note the Dayco belt in the kit I'm sure is OK)? I'm concerned the other bits would likely be Britpart, but does it matter if the tensioner is a BP part?
I'd still be very keen to have someone help me out if possible, as it's such a critical part and I need the car the following week to get back from work. To confirm, any day from the 24th, up to the 1st of September would be ideal.
Many thanks for all the advice thus far.
Chris
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Hi all,
I've got a Disco 200tdi fitted into my 1988 90, and haven't (bravely/stupidly!) changed the timing belt since I bought it three and a half years ago. I've slowly been working through my list of critical things to do, and now the timing belt is at the top of the list. I've got nine days off coming up not this week coming, but the one after that, so I was planning on changing it then. I was going to use all genuine LR parts as the full kit isn't that expensive, unless anyone recommends differently?
My big issue is that I've not got a puller to remove the crank damper, and I'm also a little nervous about doing something so integral to the smooth running of the engine all alone. Are there any kind forum'ers who might be able to give me a hand/lend me a tool for a day or two? If anyone is willing to help and show me the ropes, I'm willing to travel and will happily donate a few beer tokens in exchange. I've spent a small fortune on the car recently, and I just can't afford to get it done by a specialist. I'm based in South East London (Bromley) if anyone would be so kind as to lend a hand.
Many thanks,
Chris -
Range Rover P38 seats! I got a pair for £27 on ebay, wired the heating up too. Best upgrade I've done on mine, and the best value.
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I'm about 10 miles down the road from Biggin Hill, let me know if that's of any use to you mate
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That must be a 22D, meaning it's a 1.4 ratio box?
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6-sided socket (so as to not round it off) plus big breaker bar plus some elbow grease
Seems I did it in the lazy way then
Sprog - No problem, hope it works!
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I used a jack, placed under the handle end of the ratchet on the sump bolt. Pumping the jack up cracked the bolt off the sump easily and quickly.
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i've fitted a snap off steering wheel.it makes it a little bit difficult to nick it with no wheel.unless they always walk round with a load of tools and a choice of steering wheels just in case.also a load of secretive immobilisers, and 2 German Shepherds which like to play with strangers in the dark.
Where/how did you fit a snap off steering wheel? Would be great to hear about it!
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Well the Uni workshops were absolutely useless. Only had a hacksaw so it looks like I've got three options as far as I can see;
1. Nip to a tool shop and get a cutting disc for my angle grinder, cut the shaft down a bit and see how it fits - risk of ruining the shaft and £20 down the drain and yet more money on the disc.
2. Dismantle what I've got and replace them with Disco/Range Rover one piece shafts (yet more money on what SHOULD have been a simple cheap job, silly me - it's a Landy!).
3. Run the risk of my current half shaft splines going at the hub end, and replace with a new axle over the summer sometime.
What would you do?
Cheers
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I was very much under the impression that wide flanges will NOT fit, not just because of the PCD, but the fitment into the hub, they are also as hard a heat treated unobtanium...
Simplest solution, keep what you have, and chop the shaft down a bit. Given the gap you have, take 10 mm off and see how you get on, ideally you want it so that the flange sits home fully, and there's not too much of a gap between circlip and flange that needs shimming -my axles have no shims on the rear at all.
If you want to know how much spare spline you have to chop off at the diff end, then put some paint on a spline and push it home, should give a good indication
Thanks to both of you for your excellent advice. Can always count on a Landy owner to help you out when stuck eh?!
I think what I'll do for now is stick with the genuine hubs that I recently purchased, and take the new shaft to the University workshop tomorrow and see how I get on. There are some clear marks on the diff end to give an indication of how far I need to shorten it by, and it seems to be around 10mm. I'll take 5mm off, and see how I go. I'll report back. Thanks once again chaps!
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^^
Then those shafts are early RR ones non oil seal 978 and 703mm
Too long, dependant on your axle you can't fit the wide hubs that should be with the
shafts, the type of flange you have are poor, better to use a Ashcroft Hubs, then you don't need
the circlip groove, and you can machine down with lathe.
Make sure you have enough spline in the diff fully engaged, and you may need to pack the inside of the hubs (ashcroifts)
to stop the shafts "Floating" and thus moving out of diffs with lower amounts of engagement
HTH
Nige
Now that Nige, is a plan! I can't afford the Ashcroft ones, would these do the job instead:
Could you explain why I wouldn't need the circlip groove? Surely it's there to stop the shaft going too far into the diff and without it, the shaft could move into the diff too far?
EDIT: The other issue is that I can't get the hub close enough to the axle as the splines end before the hub can make contact with the axle face. As a result, either the splines at the hub end need extending, or the diff end needs shortening. I don't see how shortening the hub end will cure this?
Thank you very much for the tips!
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Where'd you get the shafts from in the end? They look like they could be Defender wide flange items...
They do look in good nick though
As for turning the shafts down, I'd never thought of it TBH, but I really can't see why not, assuming there is enough length in the diff end splines. I'd take a touch more than 5mm off though, the circlips are designed to stop the shaft contacting moving parts inside the diff IIRC, so ramming the shafts home and saying "I'll take 5mm off" is probably not the best idea. I'd suspect the amount you want off is the same as the difference in drive flange thickness, 17mm -though you will probably want to measure this first
Got the shafts from a chap on LRA! These ones are the width all the way along the shaft, that the seal land was on the old one. They fit nice and snug with no movement. The main issue is that the hub won't slide any further back, if it moved toward the diff an extra three or four mm then it would fit. The length of the splines at each end is identical, it's merely a longer shaft by 5mm! A bit infuriating! The splines on these ones look near enough unused, that's why the thought of turning the shafts on a lathe (professionally done) might work. Alternatively I don't suppose I could get a thick square of rubber and cut it to gasket size and make that fit that as a wide gasket? Trying to think of outside the box solutions here!
In the mean time I've popped the old shaft back into place with the new hub, and it's made quite a difference to the backlash when setting off! So some progress I guess, but the old splines really are worn and I'd hate for them to fail on me!
Cheers Bowie, you've been a great help.
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It's never easy with a Land Rover is it? Found a replacement pair, however the new shafts are a different style and about 5mm too long for the hub to attach to the axle. Any ideas around this? Could I make a thick gasket? Or a rubber spacer? Seems like I'll need an elongated hub cap on this side.
The other side I didn't replace the shaft as the original was in good condition, but I did test fit and yet again, it's 5mm too long on that side. Wondering if a machine shop could take 5-6mm off the diff end? Anyone had this done before? New hubs have made a fair amount of difference, I'm sure with a new shaft my backlash would be cured! Pics included below.
Cheers guys,
Chris
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Might go ahead and order one of these:
That's got the seal land, and looks to me to be 10 spline, with the low profile hub. If I go down that route, I'll send the two new hubs back and get two disco half shafts as you say they'll fit.
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Ahh all is clear now. Cheers Bowie
Going to wait a few days to see if anyone has an actual part anywhere, if not I'll look down the Disco route, and lastly would be welding (I know a guy near me who is excellent at welding, I'll see if he's up for it). -
Excuse my ignorance, what's a seal land? And do you mean there are two types of one piece driver members, and I need the thinner one?
Alternatively, I guess I could get the old shaft welded to the new hub couldn't I? That would solve the play issues and would mean it didn't need a replacement?
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Thank you both for the good advice. I'll have a ring/message the various people you've suggested and report back!
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Right, I've found out that I've got a very specific rear axle on my 90.. It's from a Range Rover around 1991 with ABS, and it has a 10 spline inner that joins with the diff, and a 24 spline outer that joins with the hub. Part number FTC870, which costs, wait for it. £170!!!!! JUST FOR A HALF SHAFT! I really can't afford this at the moment, does anyone have one of these lying around that I could buy? Or anyone know of anywhere that I could find one cheaper than that?
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You've been great guys, thanks! Parts arrived today and I set about changing them over. It appears in the last few days my half shafts have worn more than when I last looking (probably due to me having a closer inspection today) and the offside rear is actually really worn at the end near the hub, so I'll be replacing that one, nearside seems ok (due to greater flex in the longer half shaft?) so I won't replace that one. Issue is, I haven't a clue about the part number for that half shaft. Could anyone shed any light?
Cheers!
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I've ordered some instant gasket anyway, some of the info I found on t'internet said apply a fine layer, but everyone on the forums says otherwise if the faces are fine. Oh well. I don't own a torque wrench, but I'll hopefully be able to borrow one from the Uni workshop to torque them up to 65nm as far as per the Haynes manual.
Thanks for the replies guys!
There are some occasions where I wish I didn't have the 1.2, but for the most part it's a damn good mod. I don't do any towing however!
Mpg on 200 tdi quick reply needed
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Fair enough, I'm not forcing you to believe it. Those are my findings over an extended period of time, a question was asked on what mpg for a 200tdi and I replied with what I've achieved - I've got no reason to lie to myself about these figures, either that or the pumps are lying about how much fuel they're giving me, which seems a tad unlikely that they'll be giving me more than I pay for
I keep a weekly record if anyone is has any interest.
As for how I drive my Landy on the motorway, I hadn't realised there was an antisocial speed limit on anything below 55 or 60mph. I'll make sure to drive faster in future, just for you