Jump to content

Chrissyg

Settled In
  • Posts

    50
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Chrissyg

  1. Fair enough, I'm not forcing you to believe it. Those are my findings over an extended period of time, a question was asked on what mpg for a 200tdi and I replied with what I've achieved - I've got no reason to lie to myself about these figures, either that or the pumps are lying about how much fuel they're giving me, which seems a tad unlikely that they'll be giving me more than I pay for I keep a weekly record if anyone is has any interest. As for how I drive my Landy on the motorway, I hadn't realised there was an antisocial speed limit on anything below 55 or 60mph. I'll make sure to drive faster in future, just for you
  2. I'm not actually calculating it using the speedo at all. I do a set 220 miles a week (google maps confirmed the distance) and all I'm working it out by how much fuel I use during the week, to a brimmed tank at the start of the next week - more accurate than using the speedo! I've 40.7mpg is the highest I've seen! As I only do short journeys, I'm quite happy to sit at 50-55mph in the slow lane and just cruise There are some occasions where I wish I didn't have the 1.2, but for the most part it's a damn good mod. I don't do any towing however!
  3. At 50 on the motorway with a disco transfer box and 7.50's, I've been getting 38+mpg consistently for the last 10 weeks! It can be done!
  4. Haha, thanks James, but I think an road trip like that might be a little far to travel as you say I was planning on using one of the Bearmach kits, specifically the one with the Dayco belt! Thanks for the tip, I'll give them a ring when I get round to ordering it later this week, the ones I saw didn't seem too expensive (£30 ish). I still need a breaker bar, torque wrench and a crank puller kit.. Once I've bought everything (I'd really rather not) I don't know that I'll be that far off a garage doing it for me.. Thanks for the tips though! Chris
  5. Ahh that's useful information, thank you very much gents. I'll have a look at Paddocks and see what price I can come up with for one of those kits. Would this replacement timing kit be good enough (note the Dayco belt in the kit I'm sure is OK)? I'm concerned the other bits would likely be Britpart, but does it matter if the tensioner is a BP part? I'd still be very keen to have someone help me out if possible, as it's such a critical part and I need the car the following week to get back from work. To confirm, any day from the 24th, up to the 1st of September would be ideal. Many thanks for all the advice thus far. Chris
  6. Hi all, I've got a Disco 200tdi fitted into my 1988 90, and haven't (bravely/stupidly!) changed the timing belt since I bought it three and a half years ago. I've slowly been working through my list of critical things to do, and now the timing belt is at the top of the list. I've got nine days off coming up not this week coming, but the one after that, so I was planning on changing it then. I was going to use all genuine LR parts as the full kit isn't that expensive, unless anyone recommends differently? My big issue is that I've not got a puller to remove the crank damper, and I'm also a little nervous about doing something so integral to the smooth running of the engine all alone. Are there any kind forum'ers who might be able to give me a hand/lend me a tool for a day or two? If anyone is willing to help and show me the ropes, I'm willing to travel and will happily donate a few beer tokens in exchange. I've spent a small fortune on the car recently, and I just can't afford to get it done by a specialist. I'm based in South East London (Bromley) if anyone would be so kind as to lend a hand. Many thanks, Chris
  7. Range Rover P38 seats! I got a pair for £27 on ebay, wired the heating up too. Best upgrade I've done on mine, and the best value.
  8. I'm about 10 miles down the road from Biggin Hill, let me know if that's of any use to you mate
  9. That must be a 22D, meaning it's a 1.4 ratio box?
  10. Seems I did it in the lazy way then Sprog - No problem, hope it works!
  11. I used a jack, placed under the handle end of the ratchet on the sump bolt. Pumping the jack up cracked the bolt off the sump easily and quickly.
  12. Where/how did you fit a snap off steering wheel? Would be great to hear about it!
  13. Here you go: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=31
  14. Well the Uni workshops were absolutely useless. Only had a hacksaw so it looks like I've got three options as far as I can see; 1. Nip to a tool shop and get a cutting disc for my angle grinder, cut the shaft down a bit and see how it fits - risk of ruining the shaft and £20 down the drain and yet more money on the disc. 2. Dismantle what I've got and replace them with Disco/Range Rover one piece shafts (yet more money on what SHOULD have been a simple cheap job, silly me - it's a Landy!). 3. Run the risk of my current half shaft splines going at the hub end, and replace with a new axle over the summer sometime. What would you do? Cheers
  15. Thanks to both of you for your excellent advice. Can always count on a Landy owner to help you out when stuck eh?! I think what I'll do for now is stick with the genuine hubs that I recently purchased, and take the new shaft to the University workshop tomorrow and see how I get on. There are some clear marks on the diff end to give an indication of how far I need to shorten it by, and it seems to be around 10mm. I'll take 5mm off, and see how I go. I'll report back. Thanks once again chaps!
  16. Now that Nige, is a plan! I can't afford the Ashcroft ones, would these do the job instead: http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/DEFENDER/Axle/Heavy_duty_drive_flanges_-_pair_-_front_axle_from_LA930456.html Could you explain why I wouldn't need the circlip groove? Surely it's there to stop the shaft going too far into the diff and without it, the shaft could move into the diff too far? EDIT: The other issue is that I can't get the hub close enough to the axle as the splines end before the hub can make contact with the axle face. As a result, either the splines at the hub end need extending, or the diff end needs shortening. I don't see how shortening the hub end will cure this? Thank you very much for the tips!
  17. Got the shafts from a chap on LRA! These ones are the width all the way along the shaft, that the seal land was on the old one. They fit nice and snug with no movement. The main issue is that the hub won't slide any further back, if it moved toward the diff an extra three or four mm then it would fit. The length of the splines at each end is identical, it's merely a longer shaft by 5mm! A bit infuriating! The splines on these ones look near enough unused, that's why the thought of turning the shafts on a lathe (professionally done) might work. Alternatively I don't suppose I could get a thick square of rubber and cut it to gasket size and make that fit that as a wide gasket? Trying to think of outside the box solutions here! In the mean time I've popped the old shaft back into place with the new hub, and it's made quite a difference to the backlash when setting off! So some progress I guess, but the old splines really are worn and I'd hate for them to fail on me! Cheers Bowie, you've been a great help.
  18. It's never easy with a Land Rover is it? Found a replacement pair, however the new shafts are a different style and about 5mm too long for the hub to attach to the axle. Any ideas around this? Could I make a thick gasket? Or a rubber spacer? Seems like I'll need an elongated hub cap on this side. The other side I didn't replace the shaft as the original was in good condition, but I did test fit and yet again, it's 5mm too long on that side. Wondering if a machine shop could take 5-6mm off the diff end? Anyone had this done before? New hubs have made a fair amount of difference, I'm sure with a new shaft my backlash would be cured! Pics included below. Cheers guys, Chris
  19. Might go ahead and order one of these: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250627991420&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_3031wt_648 That's got the seal land, and looks to me to be 10 spline, with the low profile hub. If I go down that route, I'll send the two new hubs back and get two disco half shafts as you say they'll fit.
  20. Ahh all is clear now. Cheers Bowie Going to wait a few days to see if anyone has an actual part anywhere, if not I'll look down the Disco route, and lastly would be welding (I know a guy near me who is excellent at welding, I'll see if he's up for it).
  21. Excuse my ignorance, what's a seal land? And do you mean there are two types of one piece driver members, and I need the thinner one? Alternatively, I guess I could get the old shaft welded to the new hub couldn't I? That would solve the play issues and would mean it didn't need a replacement?
  22. Thank you both for the good advice. I'll have a ring/message the various people you've suggested and report back!
  23. Right, I've found out that I've got a very specific rear axle on my 90.. It's from a Range Rover around 1991 with ABS, and it has a 10 spline inner that joins with the diff, and a 24 spline outer that joins with the hub. Part number FTC870, which costs, wait for it. £170!!!!! JUST FOR A HALF SHAFT! I really can't afford this at the moment, does anyone have one of these lying around that I could buy? Or anyone know of anywhere that I could find one cheaper than that?
  24. You've been great guys, thanks! Parts arrived today and I set about changing them over. It appears in the last few days my half shafts have worn more than when I last looking (probably due to me having a closer inspection today) and the offside rear is actually really worn at the end near the hub, so I'll be replacing that one, nearside seems ok (due to greater flex in the longer half shaft?) so I won't replace that one. Issue is, I haven't a clue about the part number for that half shaft. Could anyone shed any light? Cheers!
  25. I've ordered some instant gasket anyway, some of the info I found on t'internet said apply a fine layer, but everyone on the forums says otherwise if the faces are fine. Oh well. I don't own a torque wrench, but I'll hopefully be able to borrow one from the Uni workshop to torque them up to 65nm as far as per the Haynes manual. Thanks for the replies guys!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy