bimotaman

thanks for the reply i have taken the door panel and mechanism to bits, the clicking is definatly coming from the control module, when power is put directly to the motor the window moves up and down correctly. when the switch is pressed it sends power to the motor but only the solinoid clicks. the only thing i can think of is some sort of inhibitor sensor preventing the window operating? phill

hi guys im looking for a little help regarding a electric window problem. i had a visit today from a friend whos window would not go up and down, the problem started after charging the battery when it had gone flat. he asked me to change the motor for him which i did, but turned out not to be the problem. when the window switch is pressed the solinoid can be heard working in the control module in the door and using a voltmeter i could test that power was being sent to the motor (which it was). i also ran power to the motor to test it was working ~(it was). the dash screen bongs and says window not set. is there some sequence to reset the window or relay system. any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks phill.

thanks for the help il give it a whirl

thanks for the reply, i have just found a electronic solid state dieselv pump made by facet. do you think this would be more suitable for the application and would my idea work effectively?

hi guys, im looking for some help again! my question is will a fuel pump from a 3.5 efi range rover classic be suitable for pumping diesel? i have a range rover with a large stainless steel fuel tank in the back which is fitted with a efi fuel pump. the tank has no baffling inside. i have removed the petrol v8 and have fitted a diesel gm v8, i was planning on using the original tank setup to pump diesel into a swirl pot where it can be taken on demand by the lift pump. would this idea work? thanks in advance for any feedback phill

hi all. just a quick update. after alot of head scratching and a reluctant visit to a crypton tuner the problem was diagnosed as a weak fuel pump. changed the pump now she runs like a dream. thanks for all the help and advice phill

hi Steve i had the distributor changed because the was play up and down in the shaft which was eating away at the dizzy cap. really a weird one this! going to try a new ignition amp and coil tomorrow to see if this helps

i changed the dizzy cap and rotor arm with genuine parts. started the car and it ran great again until warm. i changed the ignition amp approx a year ago. really stumped now. do you think it could be timing related? or maybe a fuel problem?

thanks for all the replies, i will change all parts to genuine this evening. id did change the coil for a new Lucas item last year. by ignition amp do you mean the black box on the side of the distributor?

hi thanks for the reply, no the cap is not a genuine rover item, will try a new one. i would not describe it as a misfire more as the engine not willing to advance.

hi,ive been having a few problems with my 3.5 efi rangie. after 7 months stood idle i started the v8 and it run sweet as a nut,however it soon developed a missfire which was making the car undriveable. after many hours of searching the problem was diagnosed as a dodgy distributor. this was changed along with new quality leads, plugs, dizzycap and rotor arm. a service was also done just for good measure. on its maiden voyage the car was a dream to drive until the car developed a miss which gradually got worse and worse untill the car would barely tick over. on inspection at the roadside it was assumed the flapper air flow meter was at fault. so i removed it and manually operated the flap and the engine reved up nicely. i taped the meter half open and limped home. i then ordered a second hand meter which i fitted and when started the car ran better than ever, but as soon as the engine became warm the engine started to miss with the same symptoms as before. does any one have ideas as what to try next? im realy stumped!! any ideas would be greatly recieved

hi all just an update. finally managed to sort the wobble. i fitted another damper defender style. while i was down there i checked all the bolts and found that the steering box brace bolt wasnt as tight as it should have been, and the drop arm needed a nip up. i got my wheels balanced at my local shop and they ranged from 520 to 960 grams out of balance. the rangie now handles well considering the size of wheels and lift. tahnks for all advice recieved phill

just an update. i adjusted the swivelballs and there has been no change. all bushs and balljoints are new. can now only assume its a tracking problem. does anyone have any advice for setting up the steering?

hi thanks for the replys, i would hope the damper was up to the job, it is was a new heavy duty pro comp. i shall read up on how to set the preload on the swivels. is it a job that can be done at home? im not bad on the spanners!lol

yep definatly remembered the panhard rod.it is adjustable though. could this be the problem? i was advised that i needed a 6 degree castor correction for this amount of lift, was is correct?

hi all, need a little help again!! ive just finished a rangie build and have a dangerous steering wobble. the wobble only starts when you hit a bump in the road, but once started it gets worse, you are unable to steer and can only be stoped by stopping the car. i did alot of work to the car including:- 4 inch suspension lift 6 degree castor correction heavy duty steering bars and ball joints pro comp steering damper refurbed steering box the wheels are 15inch beadlocked modulars fitted with 37 inch mudzillas which i had balanced yesterday. i tryed with a set of 30 inch recip trails, they also had a wobble but not so bad. i set the steering link bar to the same mesurements as my old one, 1230mm any advice or help would be gratfully recieved thanks

thanks for everyones input. changed the kickdown cable and oil filter, now she runs like a dream!

thanks guys i did the cycle through the gears when testing fluids and was actually surprised how much it took, had to go out and get more!! got the new cable today but weather was against me so ill try again tomorrow

thanks for the replys i only drove it half a mile so hopefully i have not damaged it. i will be replacing the cable later and report back

hi there im new to this forum and looking for some help on a gearbox problem on my 3.5efi 86 rangie. i recently changed the box in my rangie due to the last one failing. i changed it with a unit from a 89 3.9efi complete with torque converter. i drove the doner vehicle home so i knew there were no problems with it. i carefully removed the box and changed the transfer box with one of a defender to lower the ratio for bigger wheels. however on removal i snaped the kickdown cable. on fitting the box into the new car i took care to make sure the torque converter was correctly fitted and added a larger oilcooler due to fitting a winch in place of the original. anyway, back to the problem. i started the car checked fluid levels and went for a test drive, the car selects first,reverse and drive correctly however when in drive the car will not change gear and stays in first. could this be because the kickdown cable is not connected? any help or advise would be appreciated, thanks phill