Icedmunkie
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Posts posted by Icedmunkie
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Dear all
A pair of rebuilt front calipers did the trick. Fresh MoT obtained. Thanks for all the replies.
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Thank you for all replies.
There is no vibration through the pedal and I have not checked for fault codes - I will get this done though.
The dash lights operate correctly.
It does pull very slightly to the right when braking hard. I will whip the wheels off and investigate further.
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Thanks for the reply, I have driven plenty of ABS and earlier Classics and others and there is definately something amiss. By 'delay' I should have explained more clearly - you stamp on the brake and the pedal moves a fraction before the brakes apply. It's only a couple of seconds, but very disarming and obviously a fault somewhere. Or maybe it is just me!
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Hi all
Problem with a 1995 Classic 300Tdi manual, 179k on the clock
Brake pedal is almost rock solid with very little movement and a delay in operation! The pump appears to chime in and out as it should. Am I right in thinking the accumulator is at fault? A local specialist suggested the module but some Googling of this has just added to my confusion. Over to you, people of LR4x4! Many thanks in advance
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I've done some serious mile munching this year into Europe,
Belgium?!
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I tend to agree with Jon. I would fit paras with standard shackles first and see how it goes. If the ltwt is fitted with a canvas top you may find that you have some propshaft angle issues. Make sure to fit the springs, tighten to low torque tight, bounce the rig around a field, then tigghten u-bolts to spec. You will still have the problem of the paras allowing articulation beyond the ability of the standard prop sliding joint. I strongly suggest a full length slip joint, wide yolk and narrow diameter front shaft. The Propshaft Clinic are great and will make custom shafts with the provision of flange to flange lengths on the phone Propshaft Clinic. I also agree that degree wedges just don't work over time. They do jiggle and come loose. At best, you have to remove them and re-tighten u-bolts. At worst, they damage/break the center pin on your paras and you end up with unintentional rear steer!
900's will make steering rather unpleasant and will present a serious challenge to half-shaft integrity substantially increasing the likelihood of spontaneous disassembly. Having said that, if you can get some well back-spaced steel wheels (please do not use spacers), an X-eng broken bit removal tool, and aren't afraid to change out a half shaft now and again, you may well really enjoy them....... except that 4th gear will grow cobwebs.
Cheers for the advice, I will look into this prop for the para's. I will mention to my friends what has been said on here regarding the wedges, whether they will listen or not i don't know.
Would you advise doing the re-tourque even if there second hand springs. I got a field I can use, nearby, I am sure if the contractors are doing some farming they won't mind me bouncing around for but!
I will look into backspaced wheels, what goes into the process of doing this?
I am not afraid of taking halfshafts out, done enough already and the odd diff in the rear. Will I still be able to use 4th with a 2.5td? thinking when it goes bang going the 200tdi route anyway.
Will also look into broken bit removal tool
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or you could use the door bottom repair pieces that are avaliable
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Very True Cheese,
You need any bits for you lwt mate? Have broken a series 2a and got some odds and sods still.. I know what you like for the little bits!!
As some of you not seen a series 2a in a while, you can look at mine!!
To this
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Hey munks dont worry bout vibrations off the front prop, if you have freewheeling hubs your prop wont be turning on the road. I've this set up on mine and once i changed the UJ's in the rear prop i had no trouble with steering or vibrations
Nice on Alex, talk to you about it on Friday. I don't think I will put extened shackles on tbh, Rich and Jon have had to do alot for there ones... Rich is making up some bits at ricardo's so if his works and he makes spares then I might think about it..
I won't be using 900's all the time and still yet to pick them up..
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Yes Rich, its not hard being this short lol!!
Cheers for the advice, I will look into it further..
What do you mean by Sill offset rims? Such as?
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Thanks for the reply, I wasn't aiming to get more ground clearance but just wanted to make it taller that all. I don't think I will bother to be honest, I have a friend who is making wedges and stuff up for his 88 so will see how his goes.
Also may fit 900x16's on 8 spokes, anybody had issues or anything I need to know about?
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Just got myself a set of parabolics, and wondering what problems I would get by putting military extended shackles all round it on a lightweight?
I have heard of steering issues and prop problems.. anybody know for sure??
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I suggest you get the difflock light working pronto, otherwise it could cost you a lot onf money like it did a friend of mine. In his case a new front axle......
Also take the front prop off. Yes right off, then check both of the u/j's are not seized.
mike
Cheers Mike, As per usual your a fountain of advice!
How are you btw? Its been a while since I spoke to you or Margaret!!
Chris
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Whilst driving along in landlords 110 there is a knocking noise. Checked the props and the cv joints, its def the front axle.
Been told that the difflock might be stuck in??
The difflock light does not work due to the previous owner fiddling around with the electrics.
Anybody got any other suggestions??
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Thanks for the advice, i will stick to derv and veg mix!
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I have been offered once my landy is running right by the garage I work at free waste engine oil to run in a 2.5td, i know that I need a heater to heat it veg oil up but would anybody use waste engine oil as a fuel?
I am thinking of running one tank with a mixture of waste oil,derv and poss some parafin would this work and still lube everything up?
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Since sorting the head gasket and getting glowplugs working its starting fine, gave it a run this eveing but tis gutless and has lots of white/clear smoke at idle. I have worked it out to be (unless I am wrong) to be the timing is slighty out on the cambelt or on the pump.
Which way should I turn the pump or is it something else?
Also still running range rover diffs from my v8 conversion!
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Have you tried tow starting it?
If it will start with a tow, but not on the starter - you may have poor engine compression.
Les.
Yes I did and it start but that was before I put the new rocker in. I am thinking too it could be poor compression but seemed alright when my friend checked it.
I did the tappets this eve and its better but still won't start, it tries too but won't, its really begining to get tiresome
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I have fitted a 2.5td to my lightweight and have been having starting problems.
So far its had:
Working lift pump
Working injector pump and new pipes throughout.
the timing has been checked as per les hensons article and is correct but still won't start. I am having to do my tappets as there way out and i don't think the valves are working correctly, once this is sorted should it work right or is there something else I could look at.
I have bled the system through and there is no air in the system now and gettting fuel to the injectors unless an injector is fualty?
it seems i am banging my head against a wall, I had this engine fitted to my 90 and some one ****ed the timing and it bent all the exhaust push rods which now replace but i rember that it sometimes would run properly and sometimes not but that was down to the injector pump as far as I can remember.
Any ideas would be very welcome!!
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I have fitted my running engine (heard running in previous landrover) and have changed the following items:
Rocker Covers
Water Pump (snapped a bolt so had to take front cover off to replace it)
Bottom Pulley
Valley Gasket
I got somebody else to cut the crank leaveing only a 1/4" and somebody else did the flywheel too, so i don't think there was any problems there, my only concern is that the adapter and flywheel were close but not touching, when I fitted the engine it turned over and was ok but now today tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over then I did it by hand and it wouldn't move, I have piped up the rad and checked everything but not sure what could have gone wrong, it was not left to elements and the plugs were left in it!
Has anybody got any suggestions before i pull the box back and have a look at that end?
I have taken the front end off the landy and turned it over it moves a little bit then jams but but when I turn it i am hearing a rubbing noise from somewhere, I am using a Philips conversion plate (anybody had any problems with these). My thinking is that possibly the flywheel and the adapter plate are rubbing, what should the gap be between the pair? Mine is very very minimal or could something else at the end be causing me problems? About to take the seat box out to pull the box back to have a look today but would like some ideas to look at too!
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Been tempted to look into this so hope there are some more replys!!
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I Use 10/40 from rock oil but cost its from work and free but then stick in 20/50 some days....
I use loads of oil beacuse of sump compression (possibly) and leaks but the engine is a good one bar that...
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He's a bit of a walking encyclopedia on Landrovers (esp Series trucks) who lives and breathes them. I've known him for a few years now and he is always ripping them apart, driving them, breaking them and then starting the cycle again.
At least he is writing articles with some knowledge behind him.
Still too many adverts though.
I agree with John there... Kev has been working and driving landrovers from a young age, He has some good ideas, and the same with John I have known Kev for years and he has ripped apart my landy more times than I can imagine.. even working on them when we were meant to be at work...
I have met some of the other LRO writers and they seem very enthusatic about there land rovers, but like it has been said before... the magazines are a business and have to cater for the masses to make money at the end of the day..
I personaly would like to see more articles about series trucks as thats what I love and enjoy.. I offroad my series and use it everyday, but feel there could be more content on how to make them more practicle and subtle mods to make them better offroad without going over the top.
I don't buy bolt on but then again I don't have the space/knowledge/time to make major mods but it be nice to know what you could do..
I think kev will do an excellent job and will be a very good asset to LRO
Anyone used cartakeback.com??
in International Forum
Posted
Used them with no problem apart from the truck driver not being able to find our house. Paid in cash, hardly looked at the vehicle.