longlandy
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Posts posted by longlandy
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On 8/24/2018 at 12:07 AM, Ed Poore said:
I put a Hi-Lift through my rear cross member a few years ago and got in touch with Clive at Blacksheep. Regardless of his skills he was quite frankly downright rude in his response to my enquiry - stating that he didn't do them any more.
I ended up speaking to a friend who runs a trailer fabrication company (CLH Trailers) and one of their guys built a custom 'C' section one up to my specification. Main stuff was 6mm thick with then another 6mm plate behind the tow bar area, the welding was as always superb. Chris has commented he didn't think they could get their press brake into the corner to do the tapered bit (it's a BIG press brake) so they might have to come up with another approach for that. When I popped down to check it before they welded it on I reminded him of the comment because it looked like he'd managed to squeeze it in. I didn't believe him when he said that it wasn't bent - it was welded. Honestly you can't tell, I've challenged a few people and unanimously they reckon it's been bent not welded.
One benefit of going custom is I did away with all the holes in the normal cross members and just drilled the ones I needed, not mentioning the fact that it's much easier to clean out. All in (I dropped the fuel tank and made sure all bolts would come loose) from me dropping off the 110 to them making measurements, cutting, bending and welding, cutting off the old one and welding in the new one took 1.5 days.
Rude or tired of it all?
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Yup spot on
Thanks for the personal rant and character assassination really nice ;(
Nige
In that case Im genuinely sorry for taking out a week of stress on here and being a ####
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£75 supplied and £250 fitted says much
Sorry I am sounding like the worst of the "Ooooyoudontwanttodoitlikethatyouknowoooohnooo" Brigade
Nige
You really have no idea do you!!! talentless stuck up twit. I supply him with the blanks and his fab skill is beyond what you will ever achieve, he hand makes car body shells from ally for christs sake!! Its takes half a day to fit a x member so whats wrong with £150 labour!!
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I think it's useless trying to make something that doesn't catch mud et. al. since everything will. A boxed in one will find a way of letting mud/water in somehow I guarantee it!
What's more important I think is making it easy to wash out. If you can just point the hose in for a few seconds above the rear wheel and it's done then it'll last a lot longer as people will make the effort to do so!
Exactly !
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Either captive nuts or longer bolts.
So you cut open the box and put captive nuts inside? cant have them on the outside as it will fail the fuel tank and you will then need crush tubes which collect water .
Have you ever worked on a landrover( riveting on cheq plate doesnt count)
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Being open it will still trap the carp. I would have thought you better off with it boxed in and made from thinner steel.
So how do you bolt stuff on, or have room for a fuel tank and the tow bolts on a 110.
For a td5 you have a rear fuel tank as well which touches the x member.
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My crossmember is 2mm box section folded up from sheet, reinforced where it matters ( a v from the towhitch point back to the chassis). It is a bit pointless to weld 6mm box onto a 2mm chassis in my humble opinion. I have done ridiculous offroading, kerr snatch recoverys you name it.
Daan
Its to allow it to be a open channel design so there are no water traps and its easy to bolt stuff onto.
The chassis is double skinned at the back so is in effect 4mm ,hence 4mm extension plates.
The maker is a friend of mine and he tested the design with 4mm and it bent as a open channel so therefore the upgrade to 6mm.
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120amp is not good especially as the duty cycle will drop off quickly down to maybe 70amps. Remove all scale from the steel as with small migs this can cause cold lap.
Again with a small mig dont do vertical down as again this can result in cold lap.
Cap lap can be a problem on even heavy duty welder ,thats why critical parts are still speced as tig or arc only.
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I'm most impressed with Whitbred's offerings at the moment. I think they look good aesthetically and I've never heard anyone say anything less than positive about them.
Malcolm may just have been winding me up - but he said he doesnt use any software for design or calculating bends, instead he just does it by eye. That's a craft skill that most people lack - and if it wasn't a wind up, he has my respect for that alone!
Most cages bent without software or drawing it on the floor end up looking like a climbing frame after it's been hit by a bus!
Si
Why would you need software for something as simple as a rollcage? ,maybe if you had a 5 axis laser or whatever to cut every tube notch first before bending.
I do like what malcolm whitbread makes , his prices are good and after seeing his work Id recomend him too
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Thanks for that, just bid perfect for my next pos
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Nicely done, most installations Ive seen look like something from scrapheap challenge
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beware of thinner gauge hardox, It can crack as Ive found out
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I think a fly press is one of the most useful tools. They take up a bit of space - but I wouldn't be without it!
Si
Go in any sheet metal shop, even the most modern aerospace places and you will see flypress in use, they can be a brake ,punch,notcher,doming tool, stretcher/schrinker the list is endless hence our indian friends made a point of buying and exporting thousands!
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I've been eyeing up air powered sheers/nibblers for cutting out shapes and panels in sheet metal - they would appear to be a great labour saver and a better option than slitting disks or hand sheers which curl the metal, but has anyone used them and are they any good?
The sheers are ok but can fight back, nibblers are better but the horse shoe nibbler swarf is unpleasant and can clog on aluminium.Ive got a old duplex nibbler that can eat 6mm steel which is handy when you dont want grinding or plasma sparks .
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Yes hes on canvey island,I do his laser cutting and hes one fussy bstd!
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6x4" or 6x2" with 1/4" wall would probably be safe (with the smaller dimension normal to the load). However, if you were to add a bridge over the top i.e. a bar connecting one end to the other of the cantilever with a pylon at the pivot point, this could be reduced significantly.
Using 60x60mm box section with 6mm wall thickness and a bridge made out of 16mm bar supported on a 100mm central pylon would also work.
Disclaimer! The above is based on ideal material and assumes that any welds are at least as strong as the underlying metal. It assumes that the beam and bridge are made from typical low carbon mild steel. I accept no responsibility if it snaps and hits you on the head!
That will be a 150x100x 14kg/m beam, when you spec beams you give the outside dimensions x the weight per metre
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6x4" or 6x2" with 1/4" wall would probably be safe (with the smaller dimension normal to the load). However, if you were to add a bridge over the top i.e. a bar connecting one end to the other of the cantilever with a pylon at the pivot point, this could be reduced significantly.
Using 60x60mm box section with 6mm wall thickness and a bridge made out of 16mm bar supported on a 100mm central pylon would also work.
Disclaimer! The above is based on ideal material and assumes that any welds are at least as strong as the underlying metal. It assumes that the beam and bridge are made from typical low carbon mild steel. I accept no responsibility if it snaps and hits you on the head!
That will be a 150x100x 14kg/m beam, when you spec beams you give the outside dimensions x the weight per metre
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Before we go any further, I must point out that unless someone finds a pile of money down the back of the sofa it's very unlikely to be viable to do this as up-front costs are high and we've all got way too much going on as it is. The question was a very tentative feeler, nothing more.
I would very very approximately guess that a set of 4 stubs would be in the £1-2k region based purely on what the PortalTek setup cost.
Stud pattern would probably be the same - Land Rover with maybe J**p as well.
Give me a proper engineering drawing of parts needed, material spec and existing part re machining and I'll see what I can do.
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Buy the murex, and the small miller is not a real miller anyway
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I have had it a while now, think with the machine and 2 bits of tooling it was about £1000 plus VAT
They are a bit dearer than that now, about £1200 inc vat with 1 tool.
I did have on and it must be the best manual bender out there, though I sold it a while back to buy a rdb 150 hydro but I now cant make myself pay the £7000 it costs with 4 dies so I now have nothing
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Iscar good, I use iscar and wnt and can recommend both.
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Whats with the "tad essex"It now makes an itch like you would believe
Went out for a meal at the pub the other night
At the end of the meal when clearing away the Waitress whispered "You have food on your chin Sir" in me ear
At prob circa 17 + a tad "Essex" I thought saying "Its a TIG Burn Innit Love" would prob get me a proper slap
<sigh>
Nige
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Oh yes - there is no one size fits all tungsten. Pure tungsten is a woeful candidate for AC (aluminium) welding for example, lanthanated or ceriated will work better. The difference is the former is more effective but radioactive. Same story for DC, thoriated and zirconiated, the former is more effective but radioactive.
Generally , these guidelines vary from opinion to opinion so give them all a go for yourself and see what works for you - I would imagine the radioactivity isnt an issue for the volume of welds in this context.
Ive always used zirconiated for ac , thoriated for dc and lanthanated for either(when I have them)
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I gave up trying to get a nice setting as in my book, a new welder,high grade wire etc etc should weld better than my 15yr old worn out cebora with a old torch and cheap wire without messing about!
A friend who owns a hydraulic cylinder manufacturing factory uses kempis and even on low power they seem to burn in and have that loud wasp noise, I reckon your right!
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Rear chassis cross member replacement - from where?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I assume he didn't apologise for the inconvenience his ill health caused you. Hes my cousin and he showed me the messages he got, even some one being rude because their britpart x member was poor quality and 'your the one that makes the so what you going to do about it'