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clem

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Posts posted by clem

  1. Hose at the slave cylinder get get weak and bleb under pressure causing this kind of thing.

    Air in system can be the same.

    Had one that was all over the place for about 200 miles then just settled itself down totally unexplained.

    £35+vat for the full pedal assembly though. You say it was heavy before and after changing the clutch. This is normal on a 200tdi until fitting the 300tdi pedal box.

    how will the 300tdi pedal box make a difference whats changed?

  2. I had this a while back on my 200tdi defender.

    It wasn't actually the biting point that was altering but more that sometimes i didn't get the pedal all the way down due to tiredness and knee ache.

    Try getting a pedal box for a 300tdi. Part number ANR5311.

    thanks for that but could it possibly be an hydrolics prob.

  3. hi guys. i replaced my defender 90 clutch complete with fork a few months ago & its still very stiff when pressing down the pedal to change gear.Also the biting point is changing when releasing the clutch now.There didn't look to be any thing wrong with the old one either when it was removed.

  4. Well now ive gone an done it.that 5min job replacing a simple glow plug in 200tdi engine and its SNAPPED! Any advice on removing the rest of the plug would be helpful.Going to try a stud extracter but its tight.Feel like taking a hammer to the engine but i will hold off for now.

  5. Hi guys my fuel pump looks to have started leaking from were it is mounted to the timing casting.Fuel looks to be seeping out slowly from some ware & dripping off the bottom of the timing cover onto the front axil. Could it just be the gasket or something more expensive.Any advice & tips would be brill no matter how small.Not a happy chap just replaced the clutch now could have to spend more hard cash. :( forgot to mention its a Defender 200 tdi L93.

  6. Ahh.... the one actually inside the stub?

    You have to strip the whole assembly down as per Mr hensons description, then undo the 6 bolts that hold the stub axle in place.

    once you've got it off (you may need to persuade it with a soft face mallet to come away from the axle) you'll see a bronze bush, this needs to be removed, either by levering, or banging a long drift down the length of the stub tube (from the "outside" towards the inside) to knock it out.

    then change the seal and tap the bush back in place.

    here's an exploded view of the stub:

    post-130-1191184772_thumb.jpg

    Thanks for replying so soon. Are you saying knock the seal & needle bearing & bronze bush all out in a one ha cos the bearing needs to come out before the seal & bronze bush before the bearing. sorry if i'm being a pain. Would this seal cause oil to seep forward into the hub bearings & out onto the wheel itself or cauld it be that the hub oil seal my only need replacing.

  7. hello everyone i need some advice on removing the oil seal from the front stub axil so it can be changed on my L 93 defenfer.Reason i am doing this is because of oil leaking out from the spline ware the dust cover fits.Am i looking to far indepth cauld it just be the hub seal.any advice would be brill.

    Thanks ones again steve.

  8. Check the steering box is "centred" i.e. in the middle of its travel as it should be tight in that position but can be quite a bit of play off to each side.

    Don't overtighten the adjuster as apparently if you get carried away it can trash the innards of the box.

    [/quote

    Thanks for the reply m8.

    How would i find the centre of the steering box.

  9. hi i recently fitted a second hand steeering box to my 200tdi defender.Since fitting i have free play on the spline which comes out of the box,quater turn either way before movement on wheels is noticed. tried srewing in the adjuster on the top which makes the steering stiffer but does nothing for the free play.Any other alterations which i can make or is it badly worn.Reason for changing was the other leaked but steering was perfect. Any advice please would be very helpfull

    Thanks..

  10. We in the workshop are of the opinion that LR specifies gauges that 'read in the middle' all the time in order not to worry the punters. The VDO gauge in the TD5 is no different, showing normal no matter what the actual temp is. There is no excuse here because the gauge gets its signal from the ECU and the ECU knows the temp to the degree.

    And this was (more or less) proven the other day when we had a guy in with a Disco 300tdi which he had overheated due to running at too high a speed with a roof rack and trailer in high ambient temps. He has a VDO gauge but didn't like the way it 'went up and down'. So he ignored it and cooked his engine. We are not sympathetic.

    There is no substitute for brains.

    Thanks for all the advice a friend had a LR gauge spare so i fitted this in the end & now after 10mins of running about the gauge reads half way.Never moves from half way but at least i now it works.

  11. could be a duff thermostat not working & staying closed. run the engine & check if the top hose gets warm as the stat opens.

    changed the stat also m8 fitted a 91 deg so it runs warmer,what should the original stat open at any way.

  12. More likely a problem with the valves in the box. When you turn the steering either way it opens a valve allowing hydraulic oil into a cylinder which in turn helps you turn the wheel. When you stop turning the wheel the valve closes and the assistance stops. If this valve sticks open then you get the symptom you described where the wheel keeps turning till you stop it.

    Chris

    so ive bought a dodgy second hand box then or can it be sorted m8

  13. Hi,just completed replacing the steering box on my 200tdi defender 90.Had to swop over the drop arms because the steering box was from a 300tdi disco.The order of rebuild was- steering uj first then mounted box on chassis.Tie bar next then pipe work.Drop arm went stright on the spline & lined up with the drag link.Bled the system & all seems ok untill i took it for a test drive.

    The problem i have is when turning left the steering is very keen & wants to keep going so you have to correct it.Can't under stand what ive done wrong.It was a pain in the bum to do so when i completed the task i was chuffed,is just a case of having the tracking checked.

  14. Good news everyone drop down arms came off both steering boxes tho what cow of a job.With the two leg puller and a big hammer & a few grunts. All thats left to do is fit the defender drop down arm to the new disco steering box then refit box back on landy. :D smiling at the moment but tomorrows another day. Time for a little light refreshment now.

  15. you can keep the disco drop arm(easier changing the ball joint rather than the kit fitted to the Defender variant)

    unless your puller contains semtex it probably won't move the Drop arm.

    changing box straight forwards but far far easier if you remove the Radiator, greater access and easier to hold the box.

    refitting:

    align steering box and the UJ on the column

    then atatch steering pipes once in position

    refit four fixing bolts

    then tighten hydraulic pipes and the steering uj

    this way you won't bend the piep work refitting.

    the disco drop arm has no step in it so lit ooks like it does not drop down far enough to meet the drag link ball joint.how will changing the ball joint sort this out. ;)

  16. Pretty straight forward.

    4 bolts through the chassis, 2 bolts directly underneath it. Does you new one have the drop arm on it? If not and you don't have a hydrollic puller type thingy these are a bugger to swap and you may need to be creative with a big hammer :)

    Thanks for the reply m8. The new new one does have a drop down arm on it but its different from mine. The one on my 200tdi defender as more of a step in. The one from the 300tdi disco is nearly stright so yes it will have to be changed. Been and bought a leg puller fingers crossed it will do the job.

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