chickenslippers

coolant sensor. The car never stalls once it has gotten fully warm, does that mean the coolant sensor is the likely suspect. Cheers Si

When this problem happens (engine stalls) it is usually when I'm struggling to keep it ticking over, so I think I will look at the stepper motor option. Any advice on where to get one from and are they easy/difficult to replace? Many thanks Si

Hi guys my disco 1 3.9v8 efi 1996 auto stalled at a t junction today. It then wouldn't start again on petrol or gas, but was turning over ok. 3 hrs later when mr RAC didn't turn up but kind neighbour towed me home it started once the battery was boosted. This happened before xmas and I had the rac out, he eventually got it going but we didn't know how. Mr Rac didn't know anything about gas systems so said he would concentrate on petrol. He put an indicator lamp in line with the plugs,they flashed. He put an indicator lamp on the injectors and they flashed. He had me turn it over while he checked fuel manifold pressure, fuel squirted out. He tried easy start for a while, it still didn't start. So with spark and fuel it should start, right? Eventually it did but only after time. Once the car is hot the car seems to stop and start no prob its when the car is stopped or stalls like today and the car isn't fully warm it won't start. Leave it for a few hours and it starts first time no prob. The gas system is a BRC. I have had the factory alarm bypassed and a toad alarm put in. I don't think its the alarm though as it allows me to crank the engine over. The trouble is as its an intermittant fault it could cost lots of money if put in a garage. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Many thanks Si

Hi guys thanks for all the help. How glad am I that mr MOT spotted the corrosion. They didn't look in very good condition at all when I took them off and had a closer look. I finished the job tonight and I'm very happy with the results. I did as suggested and made sure all bleed nipples could be undone first. I found the Sealy flaring tool very easy to use. I have never flared brake pipe before and I didn't have one joint fail. I thought the tool was brill and did everything it said on the tin. I used the tip of hacksawing the pipe then useing a socket to undo, worked a treat. After bleeding the system ,checking and double checking for leaks I gave the copper pipes a good coating of copper grease. As I had one of the sil lpg tanks off to run the brake pipes this got a good sanding down and repaint.( think I will take the other tanks off and do the same to them). Thanks again for all your help, Si

I was going to purchase the Sealy AK5063 flaring tool and a mini pipe bender but I cant find any imperial benders that bend 3/16. Lots of 6,8 and 10mm benders. 3/16 equals 4.76mm how does this bend in a 6mm bender? Is there a fav place to order pipe and fittings from or are they all much of a muchness and its just a case of shopping round. Many thanks again, Si

Hi guys just going to say hello first as this is my first post. MY car is a Discovery 1, P reg, 3.9 V8 Auto ES I have had a read through changing a brake pipe from the tech archive and have a couple of questions if I may. 1, Does my disco use 3/16 copper pipe? 2, Having read through a few posts about poor flaring tools eg £10 ebay, I was willing to spend a bit more up to £40. Are there any favourite tools? 3, Do I just get a selection of 3/16 fittings or is there a standard "if your replacing all brake lines you will need x amount of these and y amount of these"? 4, Will I need to purchase brake pipe clips I have heard they are likely to snap, if so do we prefer plastic or metal? Any other tips? I'm slightly nervous and excited about doing this job as I have never done it before. Many many thanks in advance. Simon, Halkyn North Wales