ped
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Posts posted by ped
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On 11/1/2023 at 10:08 AM, Snagger said:
That is a bad way of treating symptoms rather than cause and just introduces other bad performance issues. It is always more cost effective in the long term to get to the root of the real problem and fix the underlying fault (no, not the fact that it is a Tdi, John…😜).
i was used to a v8
my work 110 carries logs it is often like most arb trucks at max load carring capacityif it was a chelsea tractor type of landy then yes i agree
with the loading and the tyre size of a 110 i was happy to keep it at the factory ratio but have the later cut gears
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On 10/26/2023 at 1:30 PM, David Sparkes said:
Well, I was confused perhaps others found it easy, perhaps others successfully do crosswords, which after early trials I now avoid.
If it helps others, for 'chrone' read chrome and for 'the blat and paint' read then blast and paint.
The guidance then reads 'dip tank for powder coating, then chrome removal kit (the opposite polarity to chrome plating) then blast and paint '.
I hope ..... Regards.
i hav a dysleexic computer and some buttons do't always work
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dip tank for powder coating then chrone removal kit(reverse to chrome plating)the blat and paint
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only burst discs i use are on the paintball regs and when one goes next to you it makes you jump
nothing comes out of them as they're held in place by a nut which has a vent in -
My solution is along the same idea as stopping a patterdale terrior barking out of the window- brick the window up
ensure the floor has a hole for any water that leaks in to exit as fast as possible
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Very impressive
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i think sand casting needs the plug to be a fraction oversize
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being able to mount it verticle is a nice touch
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2 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
I've got a 12" one coming anything bigger just gets stupidly expensive, the 12" won't be big enough but by the time I've made an adaptor to fit it it will do the job nicely, some 20mm plate me thinks
Regards Stephen
the one we have when new was stupidly expensive
what capacity has your mill width wise and is it worth doing half a dozen adapters whilst you are set up -
i run vented on the front and solids on the rear in my 110s but i do carry a fair bit of weight and tow well loaded tralers and we have big hills in gods country
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a blumming big rotary table to get a bell housing adapter in
we have a 10 " onee and it weighs a ton to get on -
with a 3 jaw it takes a bit of buggering about to get it back true after you take it out so plan your steps and if possible do it all in one go
one thing to check is your tailstock is aligned with th head stock
one thing i do is try to do any tapping first then with a mandrel turn the out side concentric to the thread
once you get used to a 4 jaw it's not bad but tbh i very rarely fit ours as it weighs a ton and i don't often work on stuff that needs it,i do use it if i setup a collet holder -
you could try load testing a single modified bolt ,maybe two bits of ally with the same thread engagement and head contact area
using your engine crane or gantry pick up say 250kg ,if it takes that then i'd not worry about it
i would think the hardend dowels play quite a part in stopping twist as bolt holes have clearance so allow movement but the dowels have a tighter tolerence-
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i can't see there being a great deal of pull force on the bell housing as once it's on the mounts it has little room to pull apart as if one part flexes the other mounts go the same way
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3 hours ago, fmmv said:
Also, if I might make so bold as to suggest, if you possibly can, fit an indicator light (small neon for example) to your compressor so it lights when 'live'. It is easy to forget to turn off the compressor before leaving the workshop if it is up to pressure and has therefore been silent for a while (if there are absolutely no leaks it probably doesn't matter, but if there is the slightest it'll fire up thunderously in the middle of the night). You can glance at it and check it's off with a light. And please drain it frequently or better, get an auto-drain. Both of these suggestions a result of experience!
yep had to get up a few times before when i'd forgot to turn the shed one off
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it is a bit like witchcraft at times especially modern stuff
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first thing i would check is that fuel can be sucked out of the tank and that th pipe isn't crushed or the pick up isn't damaged
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That's where i used to earth it and i have a cable that fits it so i thought belt and braces I'll stick that on as well
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i have 3 main earths from the battery-or will have when i've finished building her
1 to one of the starter bolts
2 to the back of the gear box
3 to the chassis
i may add others yet to the rear tub as i have so far only put provisions in for a chassis to tub earth -
cash on collection is the only way with market place
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that's one way of doing it i use a slitting saw and arbor now and again as i mostly need a thinner kerf cut
did you do it in one go or leave a few holding bits to stop it flapping about and trapping th blade -
i didn't check the thread with a gauge i just pulled the one from my 300 and fitted the one that came with the gauge from evil bay, i have the old 300 one so i can check it with an npt die
on the v8 i'm not sure as it was 2006 when i did it -
i've resealed rams before and some were easy jus o rings and others were a pig
as mentioned either get a local mobile hydraulic guy in or take ram off and send into a ram refurb company -
i through the bonnet catches away years ago on both my 110's
on my v8 i have locking aero catches and my work truck has rubber bonnet straps they both still have the safety catch on just in case
Poor hill climbing performance, 300Tdi Disco (manual)
in Discovery Forum
Posted
i hope my above post clears up my choice of not over gearing a 33yr old working truck