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    chessington, surrey

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  1. Thanks Dave, very interesting read, quite shocked at the price of the conversion for 1992.
  2. Retroanaconda was spot on. It looks to be a Perkins 4.182 made under licence by Mazda. Sill can’t find definitive torque and horse power figures. Only thing I found said 140bhp, but I find that hard to believe as it’s only a 3lt and none turbo
  3. Thanks for the info. Do you know anything about these engines? Trying to find out how powerful they are
  4. Ok, so it appears to be a Mazda t3500 engine not an Isuzu. Still struggling to find spec on engine and wether it is a good engine for a 110. 3.5lt Na. Any info would be greatly appreciated
  5. Hi guys. I've recently bought a 1985 110 with what I was told is an Isuzu engine. I'm struggling to identify what engine it is. It has a conversion plate and is running a lt77 box Any ideas? Thanks in advance
  6. All sorted. Flushed the matrix and then the whole system, the heater is now blowing hot air. Thanks for the input guys
  7. Quick update. Been slacking so only got around to looking at it today. Water pump had a lot of play but still working as it should. I removed the fixed metal pipe that bolts to the manifold and discovered it has crusted up with rust really bad! Swapped with a spare one I had but then got dragged down the pub so will have to wait til tomorrow to see if it’s fixed my heater issue. Also discovered that the bottom bolt for the alternator was loose so was probably the cause of water pump failure and vibration at high revs. Fingers crossed
  8. There is definently no visible leaks but there is quite a lot of play on the water pump pulley and I was also getting some vibrations at 50mph under acceleration. I thought this was unrelated and it was a uj on the prop but after checking there is no play. Hopefully a new pump will give me heat again and cure the vibration issue
  9. I’m hoping that it’s just going to be an air lock in the heater matrix and the lack of pressure in the system is stopping it clearing. I’ve going to PTFE (plumbers tap) the cap tomorrow and see if it makes any difference thanks for the input guys, will update post after checking things tomorrow
  10. Removed the thermostat today and heated in a saucepan. It did open fully but not sure at what temperature as I didn’t have a thermometer. Water looked to be pretty much boiling before it opened. The rad is getting hot so I assume it is operating properly. Also I have an electric fan that is thermostatically controlled (sensor in the top hose) rather than a viscous fan, and it is operating as it should would a leaking header cap be enough to stop the heaters blowing hot air? forgot to say, I refitted the thermostat
  11. Cheers mike. I have noticed some coolant had come out of the cap and had run down the header tank. Replaced the cap with a spare one I had (Not new), no leaking now but still no pressure in the header tank. Will have a good look for leaks on the rad in the morning
  12. Alright guys, having issues with my cooling system. It seems to be loosing water with no obvious signs of leaks. When I open the bleedvalve on the radiator the level has gone down. The temperature sits perfect at half way but I’m not getting any heat from my heaters and the header tank doesn’t seem to be pressurising. The forward most pipe on the matrix is hot but the rear pipe is only luke warm any ideas? I’m thinking head gasket but hoping not
  13. Good news. Electrician removed immobiliser and she fired first time. £50 well spent
  14. Checked power to ignition and starter. Got 12v at both so I'm convinced it's the immobilisor so got an auto electrician coming round tomorrow to remove it. Need to know when to admit defeat Thanks for your advice Tanuki.
  15. Thanks tanuki Just tried that. The starter sounded like the soliniod was clicking but it didn't crank. The starter should be good as it is only a couple of months old.
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