potato head
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Posts posted by potato head
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I know that this is going to sound strange but I am beginning to become a little worried about what could be wrong.
When I set off in the mornings everything is fine until I use my brakes for the first time. If I brake a little heavy I get a massive BANG from the front end (ns) and a noise of springs going boing. It will only happen the once all day long - on my first brake. My initial thoughts was that the cause was a knackered bush in the radius arm (all std oem bushes and recently fitted but one went when lanning last year) but having replaced both in the front n/s arm, the problem still exists.
Its like a lock up - but no skid. It can happen in dry or wet conditions but it tends to be more in the damp.
To me its kind of the same feeling that you would have if there was a bolt broken in the caliper and after a night being parked up you get that initial forward momentum when the brakes are first applied, (when I park the Landy I reverse it down my drive which is on a slope and the main reason why I thought that this could be a possible cause). But after looking at the caliper bolts, they are all fine with no issues.
I was also thinking that it could be a sticking caliper but brake wear is good and even and when I brake there is no pull to the left as I would expect.
I'm looking for a little inspiration of what to investigate next guys - any ideas?
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If you have 12v on the switch return wire (not the one that comes from the bulkhead) then you need to check the next connection.
Take off the off side rear light cover inside the landy, (above the wheel arch next to the back door lower hinge) and find the same wire and test again for 12v. This will rule out the loom in the chassis.
Ralph, are you sure this reverse switch is earthed through the switch body with it having 2 terminals?
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Do you have 12v at the connection in the engine bay on the cable that comes FROM the switch when reverse is engaged? (From memory the cable goes into a connector and then off into the loom that runs down the chassis)
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nothing will light if the panel doesn't have permanent 12V feed & earth.
Ok, that means that I a good earth and permanent 12v. Is there a way I can test the LEDs for the oil and battery?
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Having just completed this mod (many thanks to Retroanaconda, Western and everyone else that has input into this post and also CwazyWabbit who sorted out my mileage with a superb service) I have run into a couple of small issues regarding the warning panel.
Key in ignition - position 0
Turn to position 1 - mileage lights up, fuel and temp gauge operate. During movement from 0 to 1, glow plug light comes on for a split second, no other lights on warning panel.
Turn to position 2 - mileage goes out, power loss to fuel and temp gauges. Landy starts ok, mileage and gauges come back on, no lights on warning panel. Increase the revs and the glow plug light comes on and stays on.
I'm not bothered about the glow plug light issue as I need to do the relay mod that has been mentioned earlier with both the BY cables. My issue at present is not having the std lights come on when the ignition is in position 1. Could this be an earth issue or a problem with the panel?
For reference all the other lights are ok - indicators, rear heated screen, side lights etc etc.
Any pointers appreciated.
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Mine does this and I had a good look into it earlier this year on a day that we had rain. There are 2 u channels inside, the larger one that you can get your fingers in and the one that is quite thin and runs next to the roof.
I sat there as it started to chuck it down with the headlining out and with a torch and a dentist mirror, watched as the water slowly sleeped into the smaller channel along the full length of the roof eventually forming a puddle at the rear of the Landy (my drives on a slope and I have to reverse it down the slope otherwise I have a big puddle in the footwells. At the moment I have some kitchen tissue stuffed into the rear channel area to soak up the water to avoid 'wet leg syndrome'.
My plan, some time next year, is to look into sealing this area with some 'expanding powder' that I saw on the Boats n Bits website that apparently stops leaks.
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Sorry, ment to put m4. These are genuine items and are not m4, the pitch is too wide and the od is smaller than 4mm. I will take a trip down the fasteners and report back.
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I'm fitting new side repeaters but struggling to find out what the nut size is. I initially thought it was a m3, no problems as I have loads of metric nuts, but on further inspection, the thread is too course for this.
Any clues before I take a trip to the fasteners?
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But where does one get them from and how much?
Look to the bay of e, that's where I found mine - stable mats
Admittedly they are easy to work with and do cut down the noise but it will not act as a puddle maker as the water just rolls of the edge of the mat.
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27 - 29 (winter - summer) would be smashing but I guess thats a little too much to have without stripping the thing bare, changing for a 1:2 box and only doing long runs.
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Have you removed the viscous fan yet?I replaced mine with an electric fan on my TD5 and it went from doing 28mpg to 32. You could tell the engine was a bit more responsive too.</p>
Yes, when the engine went in 2 years ago an electric fan was fitted and the viscous removed. Think its only been on twice
I get 25mpg consistently out of my 110 (tweaked 200tdi, AT tyres, brownchurch roof rack permanently fitted, and GKN overdrive). I get this on lanes, or at 60 or 70 for long periods on the motorway. Yours sounds similar - allbeit in a 90 but i would have thought the 26/27 you were getting before fiddling with the pump was about normal - are you sure you put it back to 'normal'?Also, 40psi all round?? I run 28 at the front and 36 at the back on a normally unladen 110. I'm not sure they'll have any effect on economy but might be worth altering the tyre pressures a bit perhaps?
Has it had a good service lately (filters)? Checked the pump timing? Cleaned out the intercooler? Checked the boost?
Yes I'm pretty sure it went back to norm as I checked the mpg before and it was the same when the tweaking was reverted - 26.5 mpg. The tyre pressure was at 40 as the tyres had been put on different rims by a mate and I asked him to just set them all to that so I could let the air out to the pressures that I normally use - 30 front and 35 rear.
I have just put them back to 40 as I noticed a mileage drop after I put them on, checked mpg - 26.5, changed pressures and then ran for a month only getting 25. Thought that maybe pressures were part of the issue but it may have just been at the same time as the winter fuel coming in. Filters are all good but not checked the intercooler. Boost is as norm.
Pump timing? How do I check that?
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Sorry, forgot that. The tb is a 1.4 and the gear box is lt77 (both Std for the year). It will 70 before it starts to scream.
I know the roof rack is not going to help on the motorway (its also checkerplated) but doing the lower speeds there should not be that much of an effect as it already as streamlined as a brick.
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Guys, I'm begining to get a little hacked off with the economy that I get out of the old gal and was hoping that some words of wisdom could point me in the right direction to making it better.
1988 Defender 90
200tdi transplant from a 92 D1
235 85 16 Goodyear Wranglers with approx 5mm of thread on them
Tyre pressures @ 40 psi
Service approx 1800 miles ago
Roof Rack
Rubber mats in the rear for sound proofing (about the weight of a medium sized bloke)
I'm only averaging 25mpg doing my daily routes on country lanes ~ 40-50 mph and at the weekend I did a 100 mile round trip and only got 24.5 mpg at an average speed of 60mph (motorways)
I did try a fuel pump tweak in the summer (just to see the differences in performance v's mpg) but after seeing 26.5 mpg go down to 23.5 mpg I soon returned it to the original settings.
I understand that summer fuel v's winter fuel will give different mpg returns (approx 10% based upon last years trials) and also that hot weather v's cold weather will have an impact but I just cannot understand why I am not able to see and mpg figures in the 28-30 mark.
I have checked all the fuel lines and cannot see any fuel leaks.
Any advise?
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One way around it would be the 2 tank system but with a dry svo tank during business use. Then there is no reason for the police to have an issue. It could be possible to have a manual inline gate valve under the bonnet for the svo line which would be in the off position during work time but in the on position during playtime but I'm yet to run this by my friend in the police for confirmation of ok / not ok.
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He was wrong. You can use 2500 litres a year duty free. You should be able to produce receipts though.
Yes, 2500 litres a year as long as its for private use, not if you also use the vehicle for business..... something else that the nice bloke from customs felt obliged to tell me whilst taking a litre of my svo.
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but they only dip tanks and look at the colour in case it's red they dont do a deep analysis of it's exact make up after all it's gonna smell like diesel and pretty much look like diesel poss a bit more viscous than usual.
Maybe I should have told them that when they dipped my tank last summer in the Dales, tested it with their special kit by the special bloke from customs, and then told me that they couldn't find any traces of diesel in my tank.
Also svo does not smell anything like diesel and if you do manage to get past that point, the fact that your exhaust fumes will make your truck smell like a burger van could finally give the game away.
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I lined my roof with camping mats this summer ready for the cold winter. Made a big difference. Just make sure you use a high temp adhesive to fix it with otherwise the heat on the roof will cause unwanted problems.
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A quick search found this......
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=60094&hl=%2Bframe+%2Bchassis+%2Bbolts&fromsearch=1
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The problem is the pin that the blue wire in on. Basicly you have the pin that is connected to a brass plate. This plate either makes or breaks the dip beam to main beam. For some reason this pin and the plate have no continuity so they are attached but not attached if you know what I mean. Need to get the soldering iron out to fix it.
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Lost dip and main - still had flash. It wasn't a Britpart item as I don't believe in blue label stuff.
For some reason I was under the impression that you could wire in a relay that is operated by the light switch but takes the main power away from the indicator stalk when upgrading to halogens.
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Can anyone point me in the right direction for an electrical drawing that shows how to bypass the main voltage through the indicator stalk via a relay? I have seen info on here for additional lights and main / dipped relays but nothing that I can find that explains how the switch cables are modified.
I have just put on my second indicator switch in 12 months and I would prefer not to do it again.
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Packard rod and yes there are bushes.
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Swivel would normally be 12-6 o clock play. Are you sure the bearings are adjusted correctly?
Just to make a small comment on this, I checked my front n/s last week and had movement at 6 n 12. I adjusted the shims 3 times, taking out 5 tho at a time and the play was still there.
Turned out that the wheel bearing needed adjusting to cure the movement. Because the calipers have new pads, they were restricting the movement at 3 n 9 and only showing up a problem at 6 n 12.
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Does you plate cover the whole of the roof rack deck,or did you leave gaps between each sheet?
Tazz
I have a full sheet down the middle (front to back)
and then two strips down each side with approx a 10mm gap. I would have made it closer, even touching, but I needed a certain width from the rest of the second sheet for the rear door.
Help on a uncomfortable noise
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Yep I have cones fitted, been on for nearly 18 months. I have had tjis issue for about 2 months.