pitmole
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Posts posted by pitmole
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Well yes, I was trying to suggest something in line with the OP's original budget choice! But yes, LS would certainly do it.
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Sell the lexus v8, then go out and buy a rotten mercedes ml v8 4.3 or 5 ltr with a 6 speed auto, fit red winch's ml to lt230 adaptor and off you go!
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Hi Simon and all, I have had an r-tech 200 acdc tig for about 6 years now and it has been brilliant, welding 0.8 aluminium tube and 10mm aluminium plates.
It works fine on a 13amp plug on the lower settings and I feed it 32 amps for the big stuff. mine is the older, manual set inverter, but I love it.
When its resting it lives under a cover to keep the grinding dust out of it, that is the thing that kills circuit boards in welders.
Have bought the 250 mig and plasma 30 and 50 since then and never a problem with anything, I know all about people saying "ah its all from china really"
but wise up, how many components these days in anything aren't sourced from there, its the support/aftersales that matters.
Nick
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If your motor is a crank driven oil pump serpentine type, which looking at those fittings I suspect it is, then just blank the ports off with either m18 or m20 plugs.
The "special fitting" is a way of diverting the flow when the cooler is fitted, groove at the end normally is fitted with o ring which seals inner port in case.
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If your motor is a crank driven oil pump serpentine type, which looking at those fittings I suspect it is, then just blank the ports off with either m18 or m20 plugs.
The "special fitting" is a way of diverting the flow when the cooler is fitted, groove at the end normally is fitted with o ring which seals inner port in case.
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Hi, you just need the mount plate with the lobster backed pipe out one side and a straight pipe with small bore branch the other?
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You might be able to get a hydraulic hose banjo end in the space a little easier, if this was on the end of a short hose tucked up out of the way and a blank cap screwed on the end then you have a built in no spill drain tube too!
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vapormatic or sparex agri supplies or the like, will have some pto tubes,yokes etc in lots of different sizes, 1000rpm version should be fine for limited time winching
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Will second Longlandy's rec for r-tech, have had one of their ac/dc 201 sets for 2 years and it has been excellent, was welding a set of 2stroke cases last night and wondered how I had got along without having the ability to tig ali!
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Hi Bish,
Tracytools.com worth a quick look, more in stock than on their website too. I use them a fair bit.
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Richard, we use 10,000's of them at work, on all sorts of pipes and pressures up to 50 bar.
I will be in Minchinhampton sunday and can bring you a load up if you can wait till then.
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Daan is bang on there,given that you want to run in the plop and keep a nice expensive motor alive, then
spend the time and money on fitting a nice big rad with lots of overcapacity, give it good ducted airflow
and lots of fan so it has the airflow to stay cool, maybe, fit an oil to water heat exchanger and oil stat
so the oil warms nicely as well as stays cool, and then, as long as your rad has overcapacity, you can fit
a stat to run it at any temp you want.
Nicked this, but it simply shows where your fuel energy is going, and that the radiator has to be in it's
way, as powerful as your engine!
Energy Losses (Heat Balance)
Only a part of the energy supplied to the engine is transformed into useful work whereas
the rest is either wasted or utilized for heating purposes. The main part of the unutilized heat
goes to exhaust gases and to the cooling system. In order to draw a heat balance chart for an
engine, tests should be conducted to give the following information.
(i) Energy supplied to an engine which is known from the heating value of the fuel
consumed.
(ii) Heat converted to useful work.
{Hi) Heat carried away by cooling water.
(iv) Heat carried away by exhaust gases.
(v) Heat unaccounted for (radiation etc.)
It is expected that the heat balance results of CI engine must differ from that of petrol engine
due to much higher compression and expansion ratios in the former. The higher compression
ratio results in lower exhaust gas temperature and also lower flame temperature that in turn
causes lower heat loss to the cylinder walls in CI engines.
The utilization of the fuel’s heat energy is also higher in CI engines because of its higher
compression ratio.
Although the actual value of heat utilization is dependent upon a number of factors like
compression ratio, engine load, fuel injection quantity, timing etc. some average figures for heat
Spark Ignition Engine
Heat converted to useful work (i.p.) 25 to 32%
Heat carried away by cooling water 33 to 30%
Heat carried away by exhaust gases 35 to 28%
Heat/noise unaccounted for 7 to 10%
Total (= Energy supplied) 100%
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Oh dear, there is some conflicting information here, TSD and G&T are both right in what they have said.
in a correctly spec and functioning cooling system, the radiator is sized to remove all the heat the engine
can produce, in it's harshest working environment, ie towing 3.5 tons at a snails pace thru the desert.
The rest of the cooling system, fans, ducts, pumps, fan temp switches all help to produce the correct water/ airflow
but it's down to the rad ultimately, but only if the rad is big enough for the worst amount of heat at the lowest airflow
You then put in a thermostat, so that when the situation changes to -10, 70mph along the motorway, the engine is not over
cooled. the value of the stat will be the running temp, thats what stats do! might be slightly different than the value
written on it, but it will hold that temp.
Marine engines have unlimited cooling, run one with no stat in it's heat exchanger and it will never warm up, fit a 88
stat and it will hold that exactly for days.
If you have a system with a 82 stat and it runs at 85 normally but 95 when you cane it, then it is not cooling properly
ie think of blocked radiators, worn pumps etc.
Warm up times etc are not what the stat value is designed to do, thats down to internal waterflow and pre stat opening bleeds.
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Think of things in a very simple way.
Engine is a heat source producing x number of kw at max rpm
Rad is a heat sink that will lose a y number of kw for a given airflow
Thermostat is a balance control in the middle
As long as rads y kw are bigger than engines x kw then the system will always run cool,
thermostat will then control how cool.
If rads y kw rating is smaller than engines x kw, ie blocked, wrong sort, other cooling prob,
then it WILL overheat, whatever thermostat you have.
Thermostat will stay closed until engine has reached it's temp and then allow cooling flow to start
Lots of other issues as others have said, cav,flow restriction,airlocks etc, but I did say simple way!
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Evening all,
Will just add a small note on the ability of polyvee to transmit power.
Was driving along at 30 mph one night about 7 years ago in my 300tdi 110, started to feel
like it was out of power very slightly and slowed down, I thought the engine was seizing up
and dipped the clutch, soon as I did that, the engine stopped dead.
Coasted to a halt and did some checks, lots of oil, normal temp etc but would not turn over.
All the signs of a seized engine but this wasn't, the rear bearing in the alt had tho,
it locked solid and stopped the engine via the belt drive.
Not snapped, or burned out the belt, just dragged engine to a halt as it seized up!
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Had a hideous wobble on my bobtail years ago, would shake the wheel from your hands almost, once it had started, 40mph and a bump would set it off.
Turned out to be the output shaft on the steering box, was leaking a normal! small amount, but the bearing had play in it, would resonate and upset
the feel of the steering, stripped and changed the bearing, new seals and it has worked for the last 15 or more years with no leaks!! altho probably
easier to fit a new box. Get someone to shake the steering wheel and see if the shaft moves in the box from side to side.
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Fridge, nylon is fuel proof, as used in oem fuel lines, another thing to bear in mind is the up to 10% ethanol being
added to uk fuel now.
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Hi, at the cost of removing the other injectors to make turning easier, put a piston stop down the injector hole on number one, rotate till piston gently hits stop, mark off on crank pulley. rotate motor back the other way until it hits again, mark and divide the marks halfway, that is bang on TDC.
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Hi, just thought I would add a little note to this on longevity, I have been running my '77 bobtail with a 2" lift and slotted swivels for 20 years! When I did my lift the first time, the option to buy all these off the shelf kits,arms,bushes etc just simply did not exist so the only way was to look at the problem from an engineering/goemetry viewpoint.
Considered cutting the axle tubes and rotating ala Les,but the potential catastrophic failure if all the welds failed at once was the end of the axle plus wheel coming off. Not that I am doubting the quality of Les' welding at all or the fact that it is/was a very common way for comp safari builders to do the mod, just not for me on my road going toy.
As my motor has 6 bolt swivels I slotted for 3 degrees and added a 7th plain drilled hole with a dowel pin to lock the rotation but as bush65 correctly points out, the rotation is prevented by the face to face friction not the shear loading of the bolts so long as the bolts are at the correct torque.
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Hi, I was a stihl mech for years, just to add to les's advice, if you adjust the carb like he says, then always go back and re-check
the wot settings after you have played with the low speed settings, low mixture screw will have an effect on high speed but not the other way round.
Also, that model of cutter was very prone to wear on the induction side of the cylinder due to fine stone powder ingress, this will upset the primary compression
and make it hard to start/tickover. have fun!!
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Hi Bish, have had one of these for about 10 years now, seems to be a little more robust than a dremel but if you have a compressor then a die grinder with some garryson carbide burrs will be the boys for grinding out lots of steel.
http://www.blackanddecker.co.uk/powertools/productdetails/catno/RT650KA/
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Hi, only thing I have found re cross drilled discs was on my enduro bike rear, the holes trapped the cack and wore it out really quickly ie one welsh 2 day enduro.
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Hi, I am assuming that you are using a petrol engine and not a diesel? if so, you will get max vac when the engine has the throttle shut, also a normal brake master cylinder has to move enough fluid for all the brakes at once and is pressed by the mark one human leg acting on a lever that is about a foot long plus servo, if you only want to move one set of pistons, then you can have a much smaller bore cylinder with enough stroke, give it a nice leverage ratio so your arm can move it and have lots of power plus good feel of the brake.
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Could it possibly be a small leak on an injector on that bank? new plugs coped with the over rich mix but then fouled up, see if the fuel rail pressure drops after switching off the ign, I know they are bank fired but you might get lucky and find its the injector closest to cylinder number 3 thats at fault, move to other bank and see if the fault moves.
6 speed gearbox preferably auto
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
The Red winch adapter has a full circle of bolt holes, so you can virtually mount it at any angle you want.